Wayne air compressor info request:

[Powerband]

I recently acquired a Wayne Air Compressor from a friend whose dad had a garage in the 60's.

It's a two stage compressor with a continuous duty 220 3HP motor. Vertical 60 gal tank. The compressor crank has a small 1/4" tubing setup from the air tank one way valve. There is a pin in the valve/switch goes straight into the compressor crank bearing support. It tees with a short drain tube. I was told that it is a "pressure unloader" to relieve compression on startup. . The fitting into the compressor was removed for transport and I haven't yet figured out how the compressor fitting with the pin is adjusted.


Also > I want to plumb my shop with copper lines and noticed they use 1/2" in the big truck tire shop nearby.
> The pressure switch is : ON at 150 / OFF at 175. Can I run automotive air tools without a regulator ?.

Storage overhang closed in with pine fencing. My garage is on inside:

Thanks
Powerband

 

[wilbilt]

The compressor crank has a small 1/4" tubing setup from the air tank one way valve. There is a pin in the valve/switch goes straight into the compressor crank bearing support. It tees with a short drain tube. I was told that it is a "pressure unloader" to relieve compression on startup. . The fitting into the compressor was removed for transport and I haven't yet figured out how the compressor fitting with the pin is adjusted.

The device of which you speak is a centrifugal unloader. It relieves the compressor head pressure at low RPMs, allowing easier starting of the compressor. It is adjusted via the threads at the jam nut where the "T" fitting attaches to the crankcase. Threading the fitting in or out will raise/lower the RPM at which the head unloads.

NICE compressor, BTW!

 

[Charles (in GA)]

Air tools are designed to operate at 90 to 100 psi. Running them on 150 to 175 psi is not a good practice and will probably damage them, blow seals, etc. You could easily overspeed a die grinder and blow up a disc, or damage the hammers in an impact tool.

You need a regulator.

Charles

 

[wilbilt]

What's wrong with this regulator?

 

[Powerband]

What's wrong with this regulator?

Tool Tech help appreciated !.

I just don't understand Pneumatics / Hydraulics.. DOes the small 3/8 fittings choke down the efficiency of the big compressor?. the rest of the manifold is all 1/2" NPT type pipe - a true - 1/2" ID.

I will be using copper to plumb it over to the working side of my garage. I have a 1/2" 3500 PSI flex hose to the the garage from compressor and it will run in copper @ 30' before use. I added ball valves and drops.

I always have wanted to try media blasting which got me needing...

Thanks PB

 

[Charles (in GA)]

That regulator is a "one hose" regulator, not a whole system regulator. You probably need a larger flow unit (unless the regulator has larger fittings I cannot see).

This compressor will not get you far if you are using a blast cabinet, you will be waiting on the compressor about half the time.

Charles

 

[wilbilt]

I just don't understand Pneumatics / Hydraulics.. DOes the small 3/8 fittings choke down the efficiency of the big compressor?. the rest of the manifold is all 1/2" NPT type pipe - a true - 1/2" ID.

I will be using copper to plumb it over to the working side of my garage. I have a 1/2" 3500 PSI flex hose to the the garage from compressor and it will run in copper @ 30' before use. I added ball valves and drops.

As Charles says, that regulator would be suited for a single drop at a hose connection. It is best to run the full outlet size to all of the places you will have hose connections for tools.

The 3/8" connection at the drop will not limit the efficiency of the tools, as most air tools have 1/4" connections anyway. The greatest restriction is generally the ID of the disconnects you are using at the tool.