Wayne Compressor

[PirateTurner]

I've come across a seemingly older Wayne compressor pump, model 6228-SH (casting is AC-4209) but have been unsuccessful in finding a parts supply. Actually, I bought the compressor for the tank which has pressure tested satisfactorily. The pump burbs when turned by hand. I have not opened up the case at all.

Q1 does the compressor represent any monetary value?

The compressor came with 1 phase 220-240v, 7.5-10 hp motor. I say that only because the lead in wire is #6 copper. The motor is a MagneTek but the plate information is illegible. It sounds gritty when you turn the motor by hand so probably needs some bearing work at least.

Q2 does the motor have any monetary value beyond a boat anchor?

I'm getting a Quincy 325 RoC 10 next month (May) for free (right!) that needs attention. How much, I'm not sure. Seems it sat unused for many years. I hope to get some life 'pumped' into it and find a decent 3 hp motor

Thanks in advance.

 

[metalmagpie]

I've come across a seemingly older Wayne compressor pump, model 6228-SH (casting is AC-4209) but have been unsuccessful in finding a parts supply. Actually, I bought the compressor for the tank which has pressure tested satisfactorily. The pump burbs when turned by hand. I have not opened up the case at all.

Q1 does the compressor represent any monetary value?

The compressor came with 1 phase 220-240v, 7.5-10 hp motor. I say that only because the lead in wire is #6 copper. The motor is a MagneTek but the plate information is illegible. It sounds gritty when you turn the motor by hand so probably needs some bearing work at least.

Q2 does the motor have any monetary value beyond a boat anchor?

I'm getting a Quincy 325 RoC 10 next month (May) for free (right!) that needs attention. How much, I'm not sure. Seems it sat unused for many years. I hope to get some life 'pumped' into it and find a decent 3 hp motor

Thanks in advance.

> Q1 does the compressor represent any monetary value?

The tank alone is worth money, even if it had failed hydrotesting. Especially if it is 24" diameter - those are highly sought after by people who want to make a meat smoker or two firepits.

> Q2 does the motor have any monetary value beyond a boat anchor?

The motor may not work but if it is wound with copper (most are), well, copper is $4.30/lb as I write this, so if you scrap 8 pounds of copper out of it you're up near a steak dinner.

> I'm getting a Quincy 325 RoC 10 next month (May) for free (right!) that needs attention. How much, I'm not sure. Seems it sat unused for many years. I hope to get some life 'pumped' into it and find a decent 3 hp motor.

You can run a Quincy 325 with a 5 hp motor if you like. You get 67% more air output that way. My suggestion is to find your local Quincy service center when you get your hands on it, and go talk to the service manager. I would certainly take the valves apart and look at them. And look closely at the oil in the crankcase. If it is full of water you may have a problem. Even a complete rebuild is doable if you are skilled mechanically and have a well-equipped shop.

Wayne isn't the best compressor ever made but they are an industrial quality American made compressor. There are lots of people who make a living selling parts for older US made compressors. Do the research to find out what model pump you have, and look into a rebuild kit, or order parts individually. Again, I'd certainly take the time to take apart the valves. They are usually simple mechanisms and they are also the area that needs attention first as they can get clogged up with junk or the plates may need some simple hand lapping.

 

[walta]

Why reinvent the wheel. Power it up and see if it works. If not repair it.

Sure, it is junk if it has a rod knock. Most likely it will work or the valves need some attention.

7 horse single phase motors are rare and 10 HP are unicorns. A replacement would be very expensive.

I am a sucker I would likely try fixing it just because it my idea of fun.



Walta

 

[OccupantRJ]

I would already be testing that motor and if it ran, have new bearings in it this afternoon.

 

[PirateTurner]

@OccupantRJ - been thinking about that. Probably don't need #6 lead-in cable with no load.

 

[PirateTurner]

Ran a crude test of the motor. Connected 220VAC direct. Motor turned for 5-10 secs and tripped the breaker. Seemed to be running much <1800 RPM, IMHO.

At least it turns under power! Contractor/starter seems to be not working. The box had suffered "shipping" damage.

I have deduced the motor frame size is 213/215T, still need to sort out all the data on the NEMA tables.

 

[Ry24000]

can you take a picture of that motor? Most 7.5 HP motors are 213/5 frame. The amp draw will offer a clue as to HP.

 

[PirateTurner]

"The motor is a MagneTek but the plate information is illegible."

 

[PirateTurner]

Apparently the switch capacitor (at the bottom) has been replaced. The painter's tape has some labels on it. Rather than wiring 1-2-3-4, it looks like it is wired 4-3-2-1 according to the labels. Not sure if that makes a difference looking at the Stearns SINPAC catalog. It is a 2CV 35A. Part # is 472203515UO3 and is now obsolete but a replacement is available.

I've discharged all the capacitors and now realize, I don't have a capacitor check on my ancient RadioShack multimeter or the Fluke ammeter.

Need to look at the windings with a flashlight-maybe tomorrow.

 

[nadogail]

Wayne Compressors were typically found in Commercial or Industrial shops, very few were in Home Work shops.

 

[Ry24000]

May be able to cross reference the Wayne pump to the motor. I did that for my compressor. I have a 480 3 phase 7.5hp motor I'm trying to sell and the frame is 213 with a 1 3/8" shaft. I think that is typical for 7.5.
I believe Wayne has a good reputation. If you're trying to sell it then get er running and post it. Bearing are easy on electric motors.

 

[micromind]

Typically, a 7 1/2HP 1725 RPM motor is 213T frame. It has a 1 3/8" shaft and will draw around 35 amps.

If it's 3450 RPM, it might be 213T or it might be 184T frame (1 1/8" shaft).

If the motor is no good, any 213T frame will fit. Make sure the RPM is close (between 1700 and 1800 or between 3400 and 3600).

 

[Hobby_Man22]

> Q1 does the compressor represent any monetary value?

The tank alone is worth money, even if it had failed hydrotesting. Especially if it is 24" diameter - those are highly sought after by people who want to make a meat smoker or two firepits.

> Q2 does the motor have any monetary value beyond a boat anchor?

The motor may not work but if it is wound with copper (most are), well, copper is $4.30/lb as I write this, so if you scrap 8 pounds of copper out of it you're up near a steak dinner.

> I'm getting a Quincy 325 RoC 10 next month (May) for free (right!) that needs attention. How much, I'm not sure. Seems it sat unused for many years. I hope to get some life 'pumped' into it and find a decent 3 hp motor.

You can run a Quincy 325 with a 5 hp motor if you like. You get 67% more air output that way. My suggestion is to find your local Quincy service center when you get your hands on it, and go talk to the service manager. I would certainly take the valves apart and look at them. And look closely at the oil in the crankcase. If it is full of water you may have a problem. Even a complete rebuild is doable if you are skilled mechanically and have a well-equipped shop.

Wayne isn't the best compressor ever made but they are an industrial quality American made compressor. There are lots of people who make a living selling parts for older US made compressors. Do the research to find out what model pump you have, and look into a rebuild kit, or order parts individually. Again, I'd certainly take the time to take apart the valves. They are usually simple mechanisms and they are also the area that needs attention first as they can get clogged up with junk or the plates may need some simple hand lapping.

I haven't ever seen an 8 pound 10hp motor. 75 pounds maybe. This guy might be eating steak all week lol

 

[PirateTurner]

The motor shaft is 1-3/8", OBTW.

 

[walta]

Ran a crude test of the motor. Connected 220VAC direct. Motor turned for 5-10 secs and tripped the breaker. Seemed to be running much <1800 RPM, IMHO.

At least it turns under power! Contractor/starter seems to be not working. The box had suffered "shipping" damage.

I have deduced the motor frame size is 213/215T, still need to sort out all the data on the NEMA tables.

Not saying you are wrong but why do you think the motor is 7.5 HP if the label is illegible?

Was the belt installed when the motor trip the breaker?

What size breaker did the motor trip?



Walta

 

[PirateTurner]

Walta, deduction, basically. Magnetek catalog data, Stearns SINPAC catalog data, line size, contactor specs, etc.
Belt was not installed for smoke test and it tripped a 30 amp breaker. It was not a perfect test, however. Regardless, here are photos from earlier today:

It does need bearings for sure, however....


Now to find a decent motor shop for estimates. Do I reassemble or take it in pieces, lol?

I did remove a wasp nest from the pictured end and I believe there is a dirt dobber (sp) nest in other end.

 

[Hobby_Man22]

Probably be better off buying a new motor. Not many places will put new armature on a motor these days I don't think

 

[The Cobbler]

Probably be better off buying a new motor. Not many places will put new armature on a motor these days I don't think

A friend took his North America made true 5hp motor in to a local repair shop, they wouldn't even look at it, they just wanted to sell him a new Chinese motor. All he needed was a start capacitor

 

[walta]

Yes, the windings are done.

Given what labor in the US costs today commercial repair will not make economic sense.

You are shopping for a new motor. Will you go with $400 China special or the $900 Baldor? 1800 or 3400 RPM?





Walta

 

[PirateTurner]

I won't be going any where till I have a working pump. Preference is not China made.

 

[walta]

Without a motor how will you know the pump us good?

Walta

 

[Hobby_Man22]

WEG