Wayne Dalton idrive - Time To Replace

[rebwork]

It's getting to be time to replace my idrive (Model 3663-372). It came with the house, I did not install it.

At a previous house I installed a new garage door opener, but all springs were in place.

When I replace this idrive will I need to install a new torsion bar/spring or is it possible to use the bar that is in place with the current opener? It looks like the idrive and the bar are integrated parts, but I am not certain. Below is an image that may help.

Thanks in advance for any guidance.

-Ralph

 

[AndyL]

Nah, you just unwind - unbolt the I drive - slide the drum off the right side slide the Idrive off that same side, reinstall and wind again. Should install a center support bracket - but its often left off to little detriment...

 

[NUTTSGT]

You should be able to use a regular opener. I don't believe there would be any reason to replace the springs. You may have to adjust them a few times to get them correct though.


What is wrong with the I-drive opener and what wall remote does it have ?




EDIT: glad to see Andy chimed in

 

[upndown]

My son recently bought a house, he texted me a pic, and that's exactly what I saw. First thoughts were OH ****! Well before they moved in I went there with every thing I needed and converted it to torsion spring. No way was I going to let my DIL and Grandkids get stuck because of that POS set up!! That was my House Warming gift..... Just my opinion..

 

[AndyL]

For all the bitchin about em few people ever remember they were about the only opener without photoeyes since... 95?

Yeah they have a sensitive torque curve - as they relied on bumping into things rather than a set of eyes... Thus they reversed on lighter bumps than we typically see - thus the seasonal reprofiling; and being finicky about a properly installed door...

Was out tweaking the detent pin on an old IR idrive today... First time he's needed anything but new wall station batteries in a decade... They're really not that bad

 

[koditten]

The cog around the bar, is 2 pieces. Take it apart, you do not slide it off the end of the bar.

These things were pretty cool when they came out and they were super esy to install. I fell for the hype and bought one. These were complete pieces of ****. Mine, right out of the box had a bad circuit board. I could never keep it tuned.

I lasted maybe one year. Back then, WD would buy it back and you could put whatever other brand up in its place.

You do not need to replace the bar. I don't think you will be finding another one of the Idrives to replace it with. You will have to use another syle of opener. Lots of choices. Non will be as easy to install as the Idrive was.

 

[NUTTSGT]

For all the bitchin about em few people ever remember they were about the only opener without photoeyes since... 95?

Yeah they have a sensitive torque curve - as they relied on bumping into things rather than a set of eyes... Thus they reversed on lighter bumps than we typically see - thus the seasonal reprofiling; and being finicky about a properly installed door...

Was out tweaking the detent pin on an old IR idrive today... First time he's needed anything but new wall station batteries in a decade... They're really not that bad

I remember the "not having" photoeyes. That was one nice thing about them along with not having a track hanging above the vehicle.

The sensitive torque curve when the weather changes can be a real PITA though. One of the biggest aggravation points that I don't like. If you're not paying attention, you might leave home with the door coming back up and it'll be up till you get home.

I'll give them the credit that the design was an awesome idea. I still need to get the wife another wall station.

 

[trainer]

I've got a Wayne-Dalton door like that with a standard 1/2 hp craftsman door opener on it. It was about 1/4 the price of an idrive unit.

 

[upndown]

ERIC, still keeping an eye out for you!

 

[911mike]

If you think the I-Drives were a POS you should see the Doormaster. It was the original WD opener then the new improved I-Drive. I had 2 Doormasters for 11 years and one was almost trouble free. The other was a constant struggle. The doors need a little heavy side balance and they need to be "programmed" each season. Cold temps played havoc for sure.

I finally replaced both last summer with belt drive craftsman. The bad part is I'm still stuck with the torquemaster spring tube. If it wasn't for that I would have installed more lift master 3500's.

 

[rebwork]

I can't add a photo to this quick reply.... will give a problem description and photo in another reply... Thanks!

 

[rebwork]

The opener sounded like it was struggling to open the door. I did get a hold of the manual and took a closer look this evening.

Per the manual it looks like springs should be at 16.5 for my door, but the springs were at about 14. This would seem to be an explanation for the struggling to open.

I was able to adjust one side to 16.5 without a problem. On the other side, no luck.... it sounded like it was missing some teeth or something, it would get tighter then release, ultimately I was not able to tighten this side.

Are there some gears that need to be replaced? Can parts be found? or .. is it time for a new opener, bar, springs, etc....?

Photo of opener is attached as well as a photo of where I was tightening the springs.

Thanks for all of the replies!

 

[AndyL]

Winding - free spinning... Broken spring...

 

[AndyL]

I still need to get the wife another wall station.

Rf or IR? I've got a dozen or so kicking around - new will cost ya, used for the price of shipping...

 

[wintermute]

I finally gave up on my iDrive–cold weather was a real pain! It didn't help that I managed to totally bungle the lift cables trying to manually open the door (and that the door was never truly level)

They're probably really great in a more moderate climate that sees a smaller seasonal temperature shift. Yours looks like it has their internal spring tube.

I'd like to go with a new Liftmaster, but I may run into issues with my lift cables at the top of the door travel (dual-track low headroom installation) For the moment I have a nicely balanced, and leveled manual door.

 

[rebwork]

Attached are photos of the broken parts. I am going to check a few places locally, but if anyone knows a good source for parts please share.

Thanks,
Ralph

 

[SSpanky]

I had a good run with my I-drives. they both lasted untill this year. I installed them back in 99-2000 I think. Now I have to look at the ugly track above my lift...yuch!
Wayne Dalton charged me $125 to put in a new door opener and I thought that was fair enough.

 

[NUTTSGT]

Rf or IR? I've got a dozen or so kicking around - new will cost ya, used for the price of shipping...

Honestly, I don't know which one it is. They look just like the one in the attached picture in post #12.

 

[AndyL]

Wow, ive never seen that gear strip - heard of it... Never personally seen it...

Its a standard Wayne Dalton part - got a local dealer? If not yeah I have a couple floating around your welcome to.

Nuts - let me check ive got a good IR wall station - think I have one, but they had a habit of batteries corroding (even nib)

 

[upndown]

rebwork, in the picture.. post 12, were those lock nuts like that or did you put them there? The only time I can remember seeing that type of damage is when the nuts weren't tightened, or the small tube of lube that comes with them wasn't used.

See if you can get them locally, or online. If you have any problems I know I have some in my shop as well..

 

[AndyL]

Looks like it was wound with an impact - note deformation. Why the tag says don't use impact.

 

[rebwork]

Are you referring to the nuts on the nail? Regardless, I did not put the nuts there, I did not install the opener or door ... it all came with the house

 

[upndown]

HAHA! Those are the lock nuts for the winding assy. Not door jamb Bling.