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Weld Socket to Wrench for Extended CrowFoot?

Gore

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Has anyone done this? Is this even a viable plan? Essentially I need to torque to spec a bolt in a one time job type of scenario and a socket won't fit, and a traditional crowfoot won't clear the obstruction either.

We can get into the specifics of the math later...all I know is that if I should attempt this that I should make sure that I weld the socket at a nice round number of inches to make the calculation easier later on.
 
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fordnut85

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Done it a few times in fact snap on makes one like what your wanting to do for turbo pedestals on 6.0 powrstrokes I think. It will work fine but double check your math.

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Gore

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Funny you should respond...it's actually for an f250. It's for one of the 4 link bolts.
 

Gmonkee

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Get flatbar from VW bug front suspensions. It is the middle bars of the spring pack.

Weld the sockets to that to make nice "quick and dirty" one off special wrenches.

Holds up to stress well and fits in thin places passing obstacles. Doesn't require much dressing and acts like tool steel under stress.

I have several 'wrenches' in regular use of this build and they have long term use already. Cold rolled tends to take a curve of how it gets the heavy stress over time, clearly not equal.
 

rsanter

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visalia ca
Yes you should, however do it right.
Measure from center if the wrench opening to a given point for how long you want it.
Make that an even number like 3" or 3.5"....verses 3.365"

Make a center mark and then carefully place and weld the extension or a socket to the wrench.

If you are going to do it, do it right to make the calculations easy
And stamp that distance on the thing

Bob
 
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Gore

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Do what you have to do but,,, how critical is exact torque here? Tighten it like the other ones.

I doubt it is uber critical down to the ftlbs...but I cannot do it like the others. The other bolts need 230+ftlbs and were easily accessible. This stupid ****** is buried behind a shock...and butted up to a front diff on the back side.
 
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Gore

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Get flatbar from VW bug front suspensions. It is the middle bars of the spring pack.

Weld the sockets to that to make nice "quick and dirty" one off special wrenches.

Holds up to stress well and fits in thin places passing obstacles. Doesn't require much dressing and acts like tool steel under stress.

I have several 'wrenches' in regular use of this build and they have long term use already. Cold rolled tends to take a curve of how it gets the heavy stress over time, clearly not equal.

I might be misunderstanding what you are saying. Are you saying to get a long flat piece of metal and then weld a socket onto the end of it to get a really long wrench...almost like a breaker bar? Where does the torque wrench come into play? Or are you saying to use the socket with the torque wrench and then cut my own open wrench into the other end??? I'm cornfused:headscrat
 

rlitman

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If you have the extension bar at 90 degrees to the torque wrench handle, no calculations are required, as there is no change in torque. That's how I always use crowsfeet with a torque wrench.
 
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Gore

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Will removing the shock allow access, is removing the shock an option?

Yes...and no. I could remove the tire, jack up the truck, remove and replace the shock...but I could just weld the socket on faster lol.

Had the lift kit directions been better thought out it wouldn't have been a problem. But you can't torque down the links until the truck is on the ground anyway so....
 
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Gore

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If you have the extension bar at 90 degrees to the torque wrench handle, no calculations are required, as there is no change in torque. That's how I always use crowsfeet with a torque wrench.

I see...
 

jfcasey

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New Hampshire
I have a couple half moon box wrenches that I cut in half and welded square drives to, I'd go for it. I can post a pic if you want, just let me know.

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bobcatdan

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I got the 3/8" replaceable end out of a SO adapter. Then some 1 wide flat stock about 3" long and had a machinist buddy currently 3/8" square opening on each end. Put the 3/8" bit in one end, welded and ground smooth. Awesome little tool I use a lot.
 

sberry

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I doubt it is uber critical down to the ftlbs...but I cannot do it like the others. The other bolts need 230+ftlbs and were easily accessible. This stupid ****** is buried behind a shock...and butted up to a front diff on the back side.

What i meant was tighten them gutten tite like the others.
 

Skin

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Torque adapters? You can get a set pretty cheap and they actually are handy to have.
 

Provincial

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If you can get a double box end wrench on the nut in question, it is possible to calculate the amount of force pulling on that wrench to give the desired torque. For example, if you pull on the wrench 1 foot from the center of the box end in use, it will require 240 pounds of pull to give you 240 ft. lbs. of torque. If the distance is 18" (1.5 ft.) then it will require only 160 lbs. pull to give the same torque.

I have torqued nuts by "feel" and can consistently get within 5 ft. lbs. if I check my "feel" with a torque wrench on the nuts that it will reach. If I am that close on the ones that I can check, I am confident about the ones that I can't. I first tighten a couple of nuts with the torque wrench, then get the "feel" of them with the box end. Then I tighten the inaccessible nuts. You can use a spring scale if you want to be more precise.

PS. I think this is what sberry is describing as gutten tite.
 

cliftonbros89

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a33cec56c2199dbd1270ee50ff9e928d.jpg

Are you talking about something similar to this?
 

Gmonkee

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OP, yes, it could be used to make extensions for the torque wrench as well as one off long wrenches.

When that flat bar is pulled edge first it actually doesn't have much flex. It has its spring action in twisting the pack of bars and not side flex. Try it to believe it.

I usually cut open ends off cheap factory wrenches and used those just to be lazy. My machine shop capabilty is limited but welding services are easily found.

Watch the heat, don't get large areas red hot and you'll be fine. Another way I have had them made is weld the sides and end but not the section where the bar goes long.
Mainly to see which is better. That kinda flopped as an experiment because to date none have snapped at the weld.
 
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