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Welder Extension Cord.

ToolBoxTavern

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Buddy of mine had a 50 foot 8/3 gauge wire and gave it to me. I put a male plug on one end and two female plugs on the other. One for the welder and the other for the plasma cutter. Of course you cannot use both units at the same time.

Anyone see any issues with this?

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skamp

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As long as the circuit has a breaker that is sized correct for that wiring and outlet you should be ok. It is no different then having several circuits on a branch circuit. Not sure it meets code but should function and looks safe to me.

Steve
 
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ToolBoxTavern

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As long as the circuit has a breaker that is sized correct for that wiring and outlet you should be ok. It is no different then having several circuits on a branch circuit. Not sure it meets code but should function and looks safe to me.

Steve


Thanx for the reply. Yea, everything is set up pretty good. Just lookin for some input on it.
 

speed bump

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Why not just put the same style cord on your welder and plasma cutter? Being lazy this is the first thing that happens with all of my welding equipment.

Also if I remember correctly the electrical code says that splices are not to be made on outlets.
 

Outlawmws

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Since the outlets are not designed for 2 wires, I'd do as suggested and make the welder and P cutter use the same type plug...
 

rodm1

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Those boxes don't meat code. You need weather tight ones but they will be cost prohibitive. It looks good to me but standardise to plugs.
 
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ToolBoxTavern

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Why not just put the same style cord on your welder and plasma cutter? Being lazy this is the first thing that happens with all of my welding equipment.

Also if I remember correctly the electrical code says that splices are not to be made on outlets.

UM..... They have the same cord.

Electrical code whats that.... :shocking:
 

scott37300

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Personally I don't like the idea of putting two wires in the female plug. Don't think the outlets are rated for that either. If one wire comes out, which is pretty easy to do when two wires are clamped like that it will cause some problems.
 

mrb

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are you using this at home or in a commercial shop?

in concept what you did is ok, but the execution is substandard. Alot can go wrong with that type of construction.
 
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ToolBoxTavern

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Personally I don't like the idea of putting two wires in the female plug. Don't think the outlets are rated for that either. If one wire comes out, which is pretty easy to do when two wires are clamped like that it will cause some problems.

Thanx for the reply.

The plug will rarely move and with the collar on the bottom holding the wire to the box I think it will be fine.
 
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ToolBoxTavern

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are you using this at home or in a commercial shop?

in concept what you did is ok, but the execution is substandard. Alot can go wrong with that type of construction.

Thanx for the reply.

I will be using it at home.

I have been told by a lot of people this is the same set up they have where they work.
 

mike13u

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I made one for my shop a couple years back. You are fine. Standardize the plugs and use one female. You dont want to lug all that **** around. Plus, if you use it often, that box is going to get beat up. Even worse with two on the end.
 
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mrb

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Thanx for the reply.

I will be using it at home.

I have been told by a lot of people this is the same set up they have where they work.

just because everyone does something doesnt mean its alright.

the problems with yours are:
4S boxes arent listed for use on the end of a cord. Proper thing to do is use a pendant box, but they are very expensive. Next up is a FS box but theyre heavy, using a WP box is not right but a heck of alot better than a 4S box.

Romex clamps are not for cord. It will come loose and fall apart. Use a proper cord grip.

6-50 receptacles such as the one you used are not designed to have 2 wires in a lug. You should have spliced the cord's conductors to pigtails, one to each receptacle. Crimp sleeves should be used in lieu of wirenuts since it will be moved around, and 3 finely stranded #6 isnt going to stay together well under a wirenut.

It doesnt look like you bonded the box(es).
 

Motofixxer

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For the bonding in this application. I assume you mean Gnd bond? Why would the boxes need it if the Grounds were properly connected?
 

mrb

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For the bonding in this application. I assume you mean Gnd bond? Why would the boxes need it if the Grounds were properly connected?

the box has to be grounded. you cant rely on the ground wire to the receptacle to the lid to the box connection to ground the box. If the box isnt properly bonded and a grround fault develops in the box (likely in this scenario considering its construction and intended use) the box could very well end up energized. I have seen more than one home made 'quad box' extension cord with a live box due to shoddy construction.
 
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ToolBoxTavern

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I made one for my shop a couple years back. You are fine. Standardize the plugs and use one female. You dont want to lug all that **** around. Plus, if you use it often, that box is going to get beat up. Even worse with two on the end.

I plan on the female ends to be on a quick disconnect mount on the welding cart. I dont think it will get beat up much.

Thanx for the reply.
 
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ToolBoxTavern

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just because everyone does something doesnt mean its alright.

the problems with yours are:
4S boxes arent listed for use on the end of a cord. Proper thing to do is use a pendant box, but they are very expensive. Next up is a FS box but theyre heavy, using a WP box is not right but a heck of alot better than a 4S box.

Romex clamps are not for cord. It will come loose and fall apart. Use a proper cord grip.

6-50 receptacles such as the one you used are not designed to have 2 wires in a lug. You should have spliced the cord's conductors to pigtails, one to each receptacle. Crimp sleeves should be used in lieu of wirenuts since it will be moved around, and 3 finely stranded #6 isnt going to stay together well under a wirenut.

It doesnt look like you bonded the box(es).

Thanx for the info.

The female end will be on a type of quick disconnect mounted on the welding cart and I am hoping to never have to take it off.

You are right if everyone jumps off a cliff it doesnt mean I should follow, but I believe this will be fine.
 
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ToolBoxTavern

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the box has to be grounded. you cant rely on the ground wire to the receptacle to the lid to the box connection to ground the box. If the box isnt properly bonded and a grround fault develops in the box (likely in this scenario considering its construction and intended use) the box could very well end up energized. I have seen more than one home made 'quad box' extension cord with a live box due to shoddy construction.

This is where Motofixxer got the bond from.

If it shocks me I will let you know if I am still movin. :shocking:
 

theoldwizard1

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just because everyone does something doesnt mean its alright.

the problems with yours are:
4S boxes arent listed for use on the end of a cord. Proper thing to do is use a pendant box, but they are very expensive. Next up is a FS box but theyre heavy, using a WP box is not right but a heck of alot better than a 4S box.

Romex clamps are not for cord. It will come loose and fall apart. Use a proper cord grip.

6-50 receptacles such as the one you used are not designed to have 2 wires in a lug. You should have spliced the cord's conductors to pigtails, one to each receptacle. Crimp sleeves should be used in lieu of wirenuts since it will be moved around, and 3 finely stranded #6 isnt going to stay together well under a wirenut.

It doesnt look like you bonded the box(es).
My respect for mrb grows each time I read one of his posts !

Instead of splicing 3 #6 in order to make 2 pigtails, perhaps the OP could do the "old timer" trick I have seen in some of my home's boxes. Cut back the outer insulation about 16". About 8-10" from the end, CAREFULLY remove about 1" of insulation (This is the tricky part. Removing the insulation without nicking/cutting any of the stands in the conductor). This bare area goes around one of the screws on one of the receptacles. The loose end can now be cut to length and insulation removed for the other receptacle.

The benefit is, you have one continuous conductor, no splice !

You definitely need a better strain relief than just a romex clamp.
 
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ToolBoxTavern

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My respect for mrb grows each time I read one of his posts !

Instead of splicing 3 #6 in order to make 2 pigtails, perhaps the OP could do the "old timer" trick I have seen in some of my home's boxes. Cut back the outer insulation about 16". About 8-10" from the end, CAREFULLY remove about 1" of insulation (This is the tricky part. Removing the insulation without nicking/cutting any of the stands in the conductor). This bare area goes around one of the screws on one of the receptacles. The loose end can now be cut to length and insulation removed for the other receptacle.

The benefit is, you have one continuous conductor, no splice !

You definitely need a better strain relief than just a romex clamp.


The wire does not wrap around a screw. It is shoved into a hole and then the screw is tightened onto the wire. Typical plug of this nature.

The romex clamp may not be enough if the box was continually being moved. The box will never be moved unless for some reason I have to weld over 50 feet away and I do not see this happening.


Here is the link to the female ends I used.


Here is one to the male in, but the prongs I turned for 50 amp. In picture it is set up for 30 amp.

I am not saying what I did is right or wrong, I am just saying this is how I did it and it will work.
 

mrb

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I assume you got the wire for free....but there is a place on ebay that sells them premade.

25' $80shipped
http://www.ebay.com/itm/MIG-TIG-PLA...30664755008?pt=BI_Welders&hash=item35b4b0d740

50' $125shipped
http://www.ebay.com/itm/EXTENSION-C...841?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item5645b5ec31

I plan to buy one but just haven't yet
8%203%20LIGHTED%20CORD%20MED.jpg

DONT buy those for use on a welder. The jacket is pvc and melts when slag hits it. Use SOOW cord which is thermoset rubber and doesnt melt like pvc does. Also its more abrasion resistant.
 

Outlawmws

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Anyone see any issues with this?


SNIP
I am not saying what I did is right or wrong, I am just saying this is how I did it and it will work.

Your story seems to have changed.

Were you looking for issues, or confirmation for what you did regardless of issues? Many of the people who have answered may not be qualified to give you a clean bill of health on this. I think it's pretty obvious who are.

You may be playing with your life here. This is 220V, and high amperage devices, NO GFIC to add protection...
 
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ToolBoxTavern

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ToolBoxTavern

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Your story seems to have changed.

Were you looking for issues, or confirmation for what you did regardless of issues? Many of the people who have answered may not be qualified to give you a clean bill of health on this. I think it's pretty obvious who are.

You may be playing with your life here. This is 220V, and high amperage devices, NO GFIC to add protection...

I am saying what I have done will work, but does any one see any issues?

Yes, you are right I got some answers from good people. I have seen much worse products than this. If I was to do it different what should I do?
 

csmitty

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I agree it was really more of a look what I did, discuss thread.

Sure it'll work. but for how long.

Honestly probably would have been alot easier just to commonize plugs in my opinion.
 

Outlawmws

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SNIP
Yes, you are right I got some answers from good people. I have seen much worse products than this. If I was to do it different what should I do?

The answer to that is in the better posts above. I'm NOT a licensed electrician, but I do my best to always follow code.

If I were you I'd either dump the second box, or do the proper pigtails at an absolute minimum. But the answers were given as requested...
 

ncfh

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I've built leads just like that, minus the double-ended contraption.

In a working shop, they are no good for the reasons already stated. Without a proper cable grip on the box, the wire ends WILL pull out of the back of the receptacle. I had one go overnight for no reason at all. Examined it the next morning, an entire conductor had come undone. I figure it got loose during the day and the stiffness of the wire itself was it's undoing in the night. But it only takes one individual strand. Those boxes also admit quite a bit of grinding dust and slag.

And those plastic male plugs are not without flaw either, if the built in cable clamp is cheesy plastic, the cable will eventually loosen and then it's only being held in by the set screws holding the conductors. The individual strands begin to fray, and then one day when you go to pull the plug, pop!

Been there, done that. Pass.

In industry we do it because it's expedient, and we can get away with it because your typical industrial environment is designed to tolerate such laziness. The wiring is large gauge, in metal conduit. The buildings are usually metal and intended to contain chaos such as welding, and the work spaces are usually clear of immediate fire hazards.

A typical home garage has none of those inherent advantages and will not tolerate much with regards to fire and electricity.

Would it be okay for a home shop? Maybe.

Do people do it and not have any problems? Sure.

Would I do it in my own home shop? No. If ever something DOES happen, any homeowners ins. will be void the second it's discovered. No thanks.

What do I use? Hubble twist locks. Yes, expensive. But you can get generic 30A twist locks for about the same money as the bladed connectors and have a connection that is better in multitude of ways.
 

2oolhound

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Would I do it in my own home shop? No. If ever something DOES happen, any homeowners ins. will be void the second it's discovered. No thanks.

+1, if you ever have a fire better get in there and get rid of that before the inspector shows up. It is possible to plug 2 devices into your cable at the same time and I know you said you wouldn't ever do it but it is possible. The proper set up where I am requires a tran$fer $witch that you have to throw to switch from one plug to the other. Much easier and cheaper to commonize your plugs and just unplug one and plug the other in when you want to switch as has been stated.
 
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