MJK
Well-known member
I would be all over that.
Welder for beginner
- Thread starter katit
- Start date
I would be all over that.
It's sold now. I was first in line but decided not to go this route. It was bigger older one (discontinued), seller claimed it was used once but picture looked like it was in open shade for years. I asked if he can demo it working - NO. I asked if he can bring it over to me to try on 220 - he said YES. So, it was questionable. But somebody bought it now. I offered 300 thinking what the heck, but 600 is a lot for buying something discontinued..
If I knew what it is (other than price new) and was able to test it correctly I would sure check it out.
If I knew what it is (other than price new) and was able to test it correctly I would sure check it out.
joe_pinehill1
Well-known member
Consider looking for an Adult Ed course. The instructors can recommend a welder also.
Truknwelder
New member
I got a harbor freight titanium 170 today. I hope they release accessiries someday. I would buy a welder from a place that supports it. I like harbor frieggt and how cutting edge the become. Like building the titanium welders out of aluminum, they are half the weight.
sberry
Banned
The Hobart 190 is good. Wouldn't be embarrased if my kid came home with one.
sberry
Banned
There is some contradiction here. You don't know what you need but decided you need tig. The best tig is a bud got one for when the .001% you can't do with a MIG comes up. Anyone tells you to get anything but a 200 class mig as a first machine is doing you a disservice. Got a bud retired, bought a 211 and a Dynasty. Use the 211 and the dyn 5 minutes.
My neighbor is an expert, hasn't been over but once in 15 years to weld something since he got a 175 for home.
My neighbor is an expert, hasn't been over but once in 15 years to weld something since he got a 175 for home.
sberry
Banned
They used the guys on this forum as poster children when they designed the 175-211 class mig machines.
211 spoolgun can be had for cheap,knockoffs are 100-150.Miller $350.
212 30A spool gun now retail for 1400.No knockoffs.
I didn’t know that when I got a 212 on trade.
I lucked out on a 30A ,$550 almost new due to light usage but has older style tip.
They usually look like they have built a fleet of ships for $8-900. used.
This hobbyist is happy.
212 30A spool gun now retail for 1400.No knockoffs.
I didn’t know that when I got a 212 on trade.
I lucked out on a 30A ,$550 almost new due to light usage but has older style tip.
They usually look like they have built a fleet of ships for $8-900. used.
This hobbyist is happy.
I do understand where MIG can be used. And stick. But all my welding projects so far been intricate work around cars. Like this exhaust manifold. Or, broken seat frame. Or, some bracket need to be welded.
MIG can do many of those. But to ME - it seems that I can do all of those things with TIG and have way better control. I like working with TIG. I can see puddle, I can do very precise repair when I need to. I don't need to do any fabrications with angle iron. But I may need to do some exhaust work OFF car.
So, for ME I decided I need TIG whenever I will pull a trigger.
Downwindtracker 2
Well-known member
Read for awhile on this site, https://weldingweb.com/forum.phpr, it should be over your head, but how else can one learn.
A lot of them will suggest the tombstone , a buzz box ain't a bad idea. But a serious TIG, to do aluminum, you need one that costs. https://www.weldersupply.com/P/1160/ThermalArc186ACDCStickTI And you will need a bottle of argon and a good a good welding helmet.
A lot of them will suggest the tombstone , a buzz box ain't a bad idea. But a serious TIG, to do aluminum, you need one that costs. https://www.weldersupply.com/P/1160/ThermalArc186ACDCStickTI And you will need a bottle of argon and a good a good welding helmet.
sberry
Banned
Broke seat frames and brackets are what mig is for. I hAve welded on thousands of cars, do this every day, cancount on one hand the absolute need for a tig in the last 25 years. I welded a bb to the end of a welding rod the other day. I got them all, am a career stick welder, use it some cause I can and have a welding shop but recently used my tig for the first time in 15 years, both customer jobs.
sberry
Banned
Why ask then?
396foxRN
Well-known member
I learned on a 1991 Millermatic 35 from my dad when he bought it new, and had newly learned to weld while working at a Ford plant. While no pro, I could do a decent weld and have done a lot with that machine over the past nearly-30 years. He'd always let me borrow it, but would never sell it to me. So, wanting my own welder and wanting 110 capabilitiy as well, I bought a Hobart 140, thinking since it is a Miller affiliate it would be basically the same thing but cheaper. I never could get the hang of that thing, and sold it off...keeping an eye out for a Miller sale. Missed a good rebate/sale a couple years ago where I couldve gotten a 211 for $1000. Then, I bought a barely used entire setup off craigslist recently for the last-model 211, a whole setup, cart, tools, and all, for $900. That things runs circles around that Hobart, and can do anything the old 35 can do, without all the size and weight. So, I'm slightly Miller-biased. If you find something that works and you're happy with it, stick with it.
Even at the current $1300, I think I'd recommend the Miller 211 to anyone. at 110v, I've welded surprisingly thick stuff. When needed, the 220v plug is an easy swap in 10 seconds. I'm sold
Even at the current $1300, I think I'd recommend the Miller 211 to anyone. at 110v, I've welded surprisingly thick stuff. When needed, the 220v plug is an easy swap in 10 seconds. I'm sold
sberry
Banned
Your weld on the manifold looks ok, looks good considering experience but it could have been done wire too. Maybe better.
To 396,, something was wrong, wrong polarity on the 140 Hobart. While its small it is a very good machine, tap settings . I have used a couple over the years.
To 396,, something was wrong, wrong polarity on the 140 Hobart. While its small it is a very good machine, tap settings . I have used a couple over the years.
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Downwindtracker 2
Well-known member
When I wanted to do light guage aluminum, under .100" I found my MIG, a Miller 250x a challenge .Much easier when I got my TIG. It however, with only 200amps , 1/4" is about as much as it can handle.
sberry
Banned
Light alum is easier tig. While a guy can find that work if he tries it's still mostly a steel world in general repair and fab. The 210 and spool guy has pretty much retired my tig though.
Downwindtracker 2
Well-known member
Right now, the TIG is set up to do stick, saves on gas. I was looking for a stick machine to do stainless, and another bottle for TriMix seemed excessive. The local tool store chain was getting into importing. General International had bellied up and they had the contacts. So branching out, they are welders at heart, They got a deal on welders. But that meant they had to buy a bunch, and to quickly get some cash, they went on a very good sale. Basically at cost. It's a Hugong Wave 200. It like the ESAB I linked, is made in Shanghai . It has good reviews, but not great, it's sturdy machine, it will even accept genny power . The web is great for tracking down machinery.
This weld is not art, for sure. But I did see puddle, I was able to control it just the way I needed and I got just a little like 1/32 on other side which was perfect, very little to clean.
I did 5 or so small stitches, not one continuous weld, I had to make sure weld doesn't go up because it's mating surface.
I get it, somebody can do this with stick, it can be done with MIG. But to me after trying all methods TIG feels the best. I feel in control of what I'm doing. I can give it more amps, I can do more or less filler if I like to. And I have to do very little cleaning after that,
And thing is - all my welding will be like this. At home, on bench. Or, in a car, under car. So, to me with what I can/know right now TIG seem to be the best choice.
OP here. Well, after watching all boards for any welders for sale I finally bought one I just couldn't resist. Brand new in sealed box Lincoln 180 Pro MIG. $350 - can't pass it.
So, it is MIG for first machine. Practicality wins. Yes, I know it's a Lowes one, yes I know not the same as 180C. But with my use (or virtually no use) it should last me for life.
Last week guy had lightly used Hobart 140 with small bottle and cart for $400 and I thought about it but it was gone quick.
I do have 220 in garage so it's not a problem at all. What immediately shocked me - I paid $50 for dryer plug adapter
So, it is MIG for first machine. Practicality wins. Yes, I know it's a Lowes one, yes I know not the same as 180C. But with my use (or virtually no use) it should last me for life.
Last week guy had lightly used Hobart 140 with small bottle and cart for $400 and I thought about it but it was gone quick.
I do have 220 in garage so it's not a problem at all. What immediately shocked me - I paid $50 for dryer plug adapter
sberry
Banned
Don't let the fact it is from Lowes fool you. It is a VERY good machine. Same for the C and in fact like the t version as good or better. So simple, it was designed with 030 solid wire in mind by a real welder. You should be flogged for stealing it at that price.
sberry
Banned
I agree a lot of this comes from personal experience, even from professionals it can be very skewed. It's different than a value added salesman who gets the right machine. 90% of the first timers here are being done a diservice if they are not getting a simple 180/210 class mig. Even if they get or want others this likely should be the first thing in the stable if they are not in a particular business. They can always buy more better later but these are a good start.
It was too small for me when I got my first one but 25+ years later it's what I do 90% of my work with and mostly use others because I CAN,, because I have them or take a job I am contracting. Not so much an issue for the home crowd. Same for duty cycle, top end etc.
I am a career welder but the reason I identify here is most of the work is similar to this crowd, at least a good part of it with some exception and due to owning or contracting on specialty equipment here most don't likely own.
It was too small for me when I got my first one but 25+ years later it's what I do 90% of my work with and mostly use others because I CAN,, because I have them or take a job I am contracting. Not so much an issue for the home crowd. Same for duty cycle, top end etc.
I am a career welder but the reason I identify here is most of the work is similar to this crowd, at least a good part of it with some exception and due to owning or contracting on specialty equipment here most don't likely own.
You will love that machine! I looked at that exact model and everyone loved it...no one had anything bad to say.
I am still digging the HF200 that I originally suggested, and am getting better at the stick. I find I like to tack with flux, and then switch to 6013 on the stick.
Have fun and be safe.
I am still digging the HF200 that I originally suggested, and am getting better at the stick. I find I like to tack with flux, and then switch to 6013 on the stick.
Have fun and be safe.
I would like to think that it's welder found me, not other way around. With budgets, choices, etc. - getting solid brand, solid performer (no bad reviews) brand new at a 1/2 price is a winner IMO. Asking price was $475 and I made an offer just because I figured I will take it at that price.
Now to more questions:
1. I assume gas needed no questions asked. Shouldn't even bother with flex core, correct?
2. That said, for general "automotive" and "house" projects I will need 0.030 wire, correct? It came with 0.025 sample. Any suggestions for wire brand/type?
3. For gas, I don't know anything about "leasing" or how it works. I prefer to purchase something and own it as I probably won't use tank in many years. Is there any specific place where I can buy new tank?
4. What size of tank is practical? Can you tell me approx run time vs size? I need something portable.
5. What $ I should expect to pay for my own new tank and how much $ should I expect to pay to refill?
Hm. Even Amazon sells those, but is it a good price?
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00I4Z5NM8/?tag=atomicindus08-20
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Called 3 suppliers I found asking about 80 size bottle.
1. AirGas - $220 for bottle to purchase, $63 refills. They said "noone" will sell me new tank. They also said it's random when inspection due. So, basically they told me I can get a beat up bottle with less than a year for re-inspection which will cost me extra $40 or so to refill. They also said they won't refill/touch specific bottles. So, not sure about those amazon bottles. I get hot it works if you are a welder, but for me..
2. Praxair - $270 for bottle. But guy sounded like it will be brand new tank. $53 refill and they can refill MY bottle but it will take couple days which is OK for me.
3. Rod's - they don't sell bottles. But they lease $150 for 3 years, $80 refill. If I bring my own - they somehow "buy" it and then lease at $10/year. Not even sure I understood how it works.
Problem is - 80cuft bottle will provide ~4hr of weld time which will equal to many years in my case. Even if I do 1hr per year. Would be nice to have my own nice looking bottle
1. AirGas - $220 for bottle to purchase, $63 refills. They said "noone" will sell me new tank. They also said it's random when inspection due. So, basically they told me I can get a beat up bottle with less than a year for re-inspection which will cost me extra $40 or so to refill. They also said they won't refill/touch specific bottles. So, not sure about those amazon bottles. I get hot it works if you are a welder, but for me..
2. Praxair - $270 for bottle. But guy sounded like it will be brand new tank. $53 refill and they can refill MY bottle but it will take couple days which is OK for me.
3. Rod's - they don't sell bottles. But they lease $150 for 3 years, $80 refill. If I bring my own - they somehow "buy" it and then lease at $10/year. Not even sure I understood how it works.
Problem is - 80cuft bottle will provide ~4hr of weld time which will equal to many years in my case. Even if I do 1hr per year. Would be nice to have my own nice looking bottle
sberry
Banned
There is no doubt it's cheaper and more effecient to wire the primary. As a user with sticks I like leads. I got 25 ft for the stinger on my Maxstar. The only dent I have in it is from moving around building shelves. I am a career welder and got so used to dragging lead, it's not a problem with one local joint but building, working on equipment is another matter. I keel 60 ft stinger and 50 work on mine at all times. Same for service truck, got enough I never need to add.
It's got a Y for the stinger and connector to building ground for a loom, let's it have a stinger for the booth/bench and leads for out on the floor and outdoor.
It's got a Y for the stinger and connector to building ground for a loom, let's it have a stinger for the booth/bench and leads for out on the floor and outdoor.
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I mig mostly but stick is definitely my favorite. It has meditative effects on me and I totally zone out.
sberry
Banned
I have to run a few rods when I can just to keep up, it's probably been months, maybe more since I shove a stick in a stinger.
sberry
Banned
I have to run a few rods when I can just to keep up, it's probably been months, maybe more since I shove a stick in a stinger. Simple heavy work is not so bad but light sheet and really nice vrts are a problem.
It's not an issue as it looks good to most people but I would really struggle thru any kind of critical test.
MJK
Well-known member
Nice score on the welder. I suspect you'll be happy camper with that.
I like 40cuft bottles because they are easier to move/store, and last a long time with the amount of welding I do. I have 2, and the plan is to build a cart around them that will roll under my work bench. Whatever you get fill with 75/25.
You can buy tanks anywhere, but Craigslist and swap out at my LWS for a full 75/25 one is my normal course of action. I think I paid $38 last time.
I like INEFIL ER70S-6 .030 wire for mild steel. If you are welding indoors, I see no need to have any flux core.
Get a good helmet if you don't have one already.
I like 40cuft bottles because they are easier to move/store, and last a long time with the amount of welding I do. I have 2, and the plan is to build a cart around them that will roll under my work bench. Whatever you get fill with 75/25.
You can buy tanks anywhere, but Craigslist and swap out at my LWS for a full 75/25 one is my normal course of action. I think I paid $38 last time.
I like INEFIL ER70S-6 .030 wire for mild steel. If you are welding indoors, I see no need to have any flux core.
Get a good helmet if you don't have one already.
sberry
Banned
I have to run a few rods when I can just to keep up, it's probably been months, maybe more since I shove a stick in a stinger. Simple heavy work is not so bad but light sheet and really nice vrts are a problem.
It's not an issue as it looks good to most people but I would really struggle thru any kind of critical test.
I can ever do a rod or 2 and think no problem but then consistency really shows up.
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Thanks for response! I actually came up with exact same idea. To begin with I got 40cuft bottle - new from Amazon filled for $220. Save on driving around/thinking about it. When it comes to refill - I will figure it out.
I tend to keep only stuff I need in garage and move other stuff to basement "shop". In case of welder I don't feel like storing bottles in a basement, so it will have to live in garage.
In garage I have perfect spot under my bench. So, no tall bottles. And, most likely I will have to make low profile cart so it rolls under. Unless you can suggest one. I don't think HF cart will do, it will be to tall.
EDIT: Do you know if 10lb spool will fit my welder?
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sberry
Banned
****, didn't see you were considering 40,, 80 is minimum.
I wasn't. But then I started to think where I will store it and I just don't have a good spot for welder on cart with tall bottle. The only nice place is under bench. Has to be 40 unfortunately.
It equals to 2hr, if it proves not enough (which in my case should last long) - I will get 2nd 40 bottle..
theoldwizard1
Well-known member
For a beginner, probably true. The more "shielding" the easier it will be to weld. If you are using it out in the open, even a small breeze will allow oxygen in occasionally.
MJK
Well-known member
I'd make your own cart.
It is good practice, not that difficult and you'll get exactly what you want. Materials list is probably a few sticks of square tubing, some offcut sheet steel, 4 casters, a few DIY brackets, a ratchet strap, some grinding wheels and spray paint. Maybe $100, but the real value is what you learn by doing it.
Attached are some photos of my first project - a simple storage/work cart that fits under my work table.
It is good practice, not that difficult and you'll get exactly what you want. Materials list is probably a few sticks of square tubing, some offcut sheet steel, 4 casters, a few DIY brackets, a ratchet strap, some grinding wheels and spray paint. Maybe $100, but the real value is what you learn by doing it.
Attached are some photos of my first project - a simple storage/work cart that fits under my work table.
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ZRX61
Well-known member
I bought my bottles from Praxair, I wouldn't even go to AirGas to buy a piece of soapstone.