Welder selection for repairing mower deck

[mark198]

Long time reader, first time poster. I appreciate all that I have learned here.

I have a nine year old John Deere riding mower and one deck support bracket has broken at the weld. A new deck is about $500 and a new mower is much more so I turn to the wisdom of garage journal.

Thoughts on buying a welder and fixing myself? The all-in price would have to stay under $500 to make it worth it (welder + protective equipment) and it would have to be new because I don't have the time or expertise to search used.

I have a 220 outlet near my back door so I could use this on nice days but 110 would be much more convenient.

I strongly prefer to buy American but if that isn't an option I would consider an import.

Thank you all in advance, please let me know your thoughts.

Mark

 

[Farmall450]

I'd get the biggest Hobart/Miller MIG you can afford. Don't forget you'll need a good fifth of that for the shielding gas.

 

[kd3pc]

FarmAll has a great answer...just be sure to practice on some other metal before you go to the mower deck.

bests

 

[michaelf]

why not just take it to a local welder, way cheaper

 

[Farmall450]

why not just take it to a local welder, way cheaper

My guess is he's interesting in learning it and this is the perfect way to get into it. Plus he'll soon be welding everything, which is a lot cheaper than squeaking by or taking it to a pro everytime.

 

[mike93lx]

Do you need it fixed soon? If so, take it somewhere to weld. If it can wait until the fall, buy the welder learn how to use it and go for the repair.

 

[the intimidator]

I'd recommend a good Hobart miller or Lincoln machine I run the sp 125 Lincoln and it is truly near the top of 110 migs in my opinion I just finished welding a dump truck box back together even on the 1/4" plate it produces nice welds

I'd also reccomend starting out with flux core wire in a .30 size while you're learning it will be way cheaper to start with and unless youre doing new fab the "spatter" is easy enough to clean up after I use a wire wheel on my die grinder for small stuff

Another tip untill you start getting into heavy welding buy a cheap auto darkening helmet from princess auto or harbour freight you'll pick up way faster then going at it blind with a fixed shade helmet. I use the 70$ one myself unless I'm burning above 150 amps arc then I get my nice helmet out just to be sure

Last tip go to the local scrap yard and find some 2x2 angle or square tube and buy 4 castors for 20$ and build yourself a cart for you're new welder id say thats the ultimate first project while learning and 4-5 years from now you'll look at it and think damn I sucked back then hahaha have fun

 

[mark198]

Thank you all for your input. Farmall, you are correct, I value learning a new school and I'm sure I expect to benefit from it on the future. Intimidator, I will ask the JD dealer about their cost to repair but if I can buy a new tool and learn a new skill for the cost of a replacement part I would rather make the investment.

One clarifying question, do I need the shielding gas or is flux core wire fine for my needs?

 

[the intimidator]

If you run flux cored wire you will not need the shielding gas. Sheilding gas and solid core wire will produce a cleaner weld but is not a requirement for repairs or general fabrication it also will not perform well outdoors in windy conditions

80% of my welding is done flux cored just for ease of use and the conditions I weld in are not perfect if I'm doing auto body work on a nicer car I use my buddys gas set up with solid .023 wire works good on the thin sheet metal

 

[cajunfirehawk]

I would imagine the bigger issue will be; whether it can be welded if it has a stamped steel deck versus a welded up steel deck, one is consumer grade and the later is more commercial grade, if the consumer grade stamped steel, welding will be tricky on the thin and I would suspect some what rusted on the underside metal too? if I had to guess...

 

[ADSR]

Pick up a stick welder on craigslist for 50 bucks. have at er.

 

[rlitman]

My guess is he's interesting in learning it and this is the perfect way to get into it. Plus he'll soon be welding everything, which is a lot cheaper than squeaking by or taking it to a pro everytime.

I'm all for encouraging someone to learn, BUT just about anyone who has a project that they feel needs welding, is probably in WAY over their head if they expect to go to the store, buy a welder, and start sticking things together.

Now if the expectation is to buy a welder, and start to learn on dozens of scrap projects before reconsidering their original task, then I think we're in the correct mindset. Especially because flux core welding (which is the best general purpose welder for this task) is so easy to pick up.

The easiest repair would be done with a spot welder, but that's more of a single purpose tool, and one that is not so great at more generic tasks.

 

[finn]

I'd recommend an autoset Miller 140 for a beginner. You're not going to be building bridges, so a 120v welder will be more than adequate to learn on.

I still mostly use the 120v HTP that I bought in about 1980for most general work while the larger miller sits in the corner.

Actually, a small unit from Miller, HTP, Hobart, or Lincoln would all be a good choice.

I'd spring for a gas capable unit, though, over a flux core

 

[rhandwor]

I pick up my finish mower with my engine hoist and put it in my pickup truck. I take it to a local weld shop with a gas shielded mig welder. They do this every day and do a lot better weld than I can with my stick welder. They also grind and bevel the weld joint. Take a crack you need to drill each end and use a grinder to make a v shaped joint so the weld penetrates fully. Heat will cause crack to move.

 

[mark198]

Thank you all for your input. I decided I would buy a welder and fix it myself, I bought a Lincoln 125 today from Home Depot and then saw it was made in Mexico. I would really like a USA made unit but I won't spend over $500. I don't think I can get the miller 141 for this price and it looks like the Hobart 125 is discontinued. Any suggestions for a unit costing less than $500, made in USA, that will do the job?

And one question on the job, do I need to worry about damaging any electric components on the mower when I weld?

 

[the intimidator]

Is it a efi motor? And don't worry about country of origin on a small welder as long as is name brand and for uses should last you 20 years

Actually to get in the habbit of disconecting the ground from the battery from the get go would be good practice and will ingrain it in you're mind I use one of the isolated clamps that go pos-neg to prevent issues but I also know alot of guys who have never had issues with the battery hooked up to each their own my isolator was 79$ and made in USA

 

[mark198]

Thanks Intimidator, it is carbureted. I wanted to make sure I didn't damage the hour meter or charging system. Disconnecting the battery is easy.

Regarding the machine, the Lincoln is in my garage so if there is no USA alternative I will be using it. I didn't want to go used, but there is a Lincoln 100 on craigslist, any opinions on this model and if it has enough power for this job?

 

[Ditch]

Yes

 

[the intimidator]

Lots of power for the job of keep the new one though get to the junk yard and spend 20-30$ on steel and start sticking things together the chart on the door is a great starting point for the given material thickness good luck

 

[mark198]

The conclusion to my story, I kept the Lincoln 125, made 2 practice welds, then repaired the mower.

The welds aren't pretty, but some look ok. I did not remove the deck from the mower so the biggest challenge was gun angle and moving around obstacles.i cut the grass today and it held together so it is a success for now.

Thank you all for your input, I appreciate everyone's advice. Now that I have a welder I will spend my days looking for other things to fix.