I'm looking to buy a decent hobby welder. I think I need a 220v 180 welder to cover everything I get into. I'm looking at a Lincoln 180t refurb for 650$ . I also see quite a bunch of other welders hitting the market now. Is the Lincoln a solid option or are there some of these more inexpensive models as good. This welder will probably be the only on I ever buy so I need to be able to get parts for it easily. Is Lincoln just going on their old reputation and not as good as they were in the past? Any help on picking out a good and fixable 180 or larger hobby welder is appreciated. I do have a local harbor freight store if any of their new welders fit the criteria.
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Welder which one
- Thread starter 2fatmike
- Start date
gizardlizard
Well-known member
Primeweld. 180
finn
Well-known member
Primeweld 108 vote number 2.
I doubt if Lincoln, or any other “major brand” like Miller, for that matter, will have major service parts for their entry level homeowner welders. If you pony up for a $5-20k commercial welder they might have parts in 20 years, but I wouldn’t count on that.
I doubt if Lincoln, or any other “major brand” like Miller, for that matter, will have major service parts for their entry level homeowner welders. If you pony up for a $5-20k commercial welder they might have parts in 20 years, but I wouldn’t count on that.
Actually they do have parts available and a local service and sales place. You can buy just about everything to rebuild one of these welders if you choose. For me I want to be able to purchase new feed mechanism if it breaks. I've had issues with other welders in that place.
BTL-A4
Well-known member
+3 on the Primeweld 180. I'm the same as you. I'm still earning how to use it. It was a good value and many people recommended it.
nadogail
Well-known member
Before I recommend a Welder, please tell me what you want to do with it.
I chose a Hobart Stickmate with both AC & DC outputs.
I had done very little Stick Welding and only a little gas welding.
My Stick Welder is capable of welding a ship together, but I don’t expect to be able to weld razor blades or beer cans, TIG would be more appropriate.
Some people are very happy to have a 120 Volt Flux core wire without gas, others go for the gas shielded wire feed, or MIG welders.
Buy the machine most suitable for the work you plan to do.
There is no one simple answer to what will be the best, but some of the Multi Process machines are very close to being a good fit for almost any job you can throw at it.
I chose a Hobart Stickmate with both AC & DC outputs.
I had done very little Stick Welding and only a little gas welding.
My Stick Welder is capable of welding a ship together, but I don’t expect to be able to weld razor blades or beer cans, TIG would be more appropriate.
Some people are very happy to have a 120 Volt Flux core wire without gas, others go for the gas shielded wire feed, or MIG welders.
Buy the machine most suitable for the work you plan to do.
There is no one simple answer to what will be the best, but some of the Multi Process machines are very close to being a good fit for almost any job you can throw at it.
I think you should decide what type of welding or material you are planning to weld first before going to brands.
stick
mig/flux core
gas (acetylene/oxygen)
tig
type of materials in general you wanted to weld...like steel , stainless , aluminum, or those rare metal like inconels or what ever they are called titanium ?
thickness of materials in general.
if you are planning on welding process that requires gas like Tig/Mig/Oxygen Acetylene, the gas bottle cost and gas price in your area ?
It (gas) gets pricey, I think my 80CF argon or what ever costed me $50 or $60 refill last time in the local welding supply. and it doesn't go far. while fluxcore and stick doesn't require gas, but not that great on thinner materials like body panels of cars. so...
Gauges and regulators included they can be another $50 to $100
etc etc etc
stick
mig/flux core
gas (acetylene/oxygen)
tig
type of materials in general you wanted to weld...like steel , stainless , aluminum, or those rare metal like inconels or what ever they are called titanium ?
thickness of materials in general.
if you are planning on welding process that requires gas like Tig/Mig/Oxygen Acetylene, the gas bottle cost and gas price in your area ?
It (gas) gets pricey, I think my 80CF argon or what ever costed me $50 or $60 refill last time in the local welding supply. and it doesn't go far. while fluxcore and stick doesn't require gas, but not that great on thinner materials like body panels of cars. so...
Gauges and regulators included they can be another $50 to $100
etc etc etc
180 is a size that will do a lot of things in the mid range, but if you want to do really light stuff (body work) you need to have feed rolls for 0.023 wire and a machine you can fine tune at very low power settings. The 180T is fixed adjustment steps, you need a 180C to be continuously variable. Also, that size is reaching a bit once you want high duty cycles on 1/4" and up. Also, everything so far in this thread seem to be inverter welders, so totally dependent upon board availability in the future - ESPECIALLY if you want a "forever" machine. IMHO two directions to go: a slightly older, used transformer/rectifier machine - still brand name though - OR - consider the modern inverter machines as life limited. You can then go with a higher performance machine with a decent reputation from a discount supplier fully realizing that they can be replaced in the future when there might be another step up in performance. Another thing to think about: the US is getting so tired of China dumping into its marketplace with products that do not suffer the costs of being made to Western standards for materials, supply chain, labour, benefits, etc. you can expect the playing field to be levelled by tariffs - so support for offshore stuff could get as expensive as onshore (and even THAT is threatened as we have surrendered most electronic markets to Asia without a fight).
Of course, in best of GJ tradition I must tell you how many welders it takes for my home shop to cover full range. M 211 for portability and light gauge steel, L200 rect/xfrmr for medium duty steel fab, M250 AC/DC for medium Al tig, M255 for Al mig and med duty DC tig, M XMT 450 CC/CV for heavy steel fab (not using now - for bigger shop when it is up). I still need a water cooled AC tig system for heavy Alum and much larger plasma and table - but also need bigger shop for the table. Not suggesting you should fall off of the wagon and do anything as silly as what I do, but before you jump at anything take a long look at what is out there and think hard about what you want to do. If you want multiprocess - and there are a lot of those machines out there - they can be spendy but the alternative is to have a half dozen machines to do not much more of the same things.
Of course, in best of GJ tradition I must tell you how many welders it takes for my home shop to cover full range. M 211 for portability and light gauge steel, L200 rect/xfrmr for medium duty steel fab, M250 AC/DC for medium Al tig, M255 for Al mig and med duty DC tig, M XMT 450 CC/CV for heavy steel fab (not using now - for bigger shop when it is up). I still need a water cooled AC tig system for heavy Alum and much larger plasma and table - but also need bigger shop for the table. Not suggesting you should fall off of the wagon and do anything as silly as what I do, but before you jump at anything take a long look at what is out there and think hard about what you want to do. If you want multiprocess - and there are a lot of those machines out there - they can be spendy but the alternative is to have a half dozen machines to do not much more of the same things.
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as above stated, the fine adjustment is worth the money alone, and were taking heat setting, its so frustrating when you stuck between two heating setting and you just need a little more. I got hobart, miller and lincoln. at work i got an esab which is also nice
CraigStu
Well-known member
Going for a MIG welder I would want one that can use both fluxcore wire w/o gas and standard wire w/ gas. I think you will find that more versatile in the long run.
vpd66
Well-known member
Just remember you can weld everything with a 250 amp welder that you can with a 180 amp welder. Meaning if I were you I'd go for a 250 amp machine if you have 220 volt service. You will be happier in the long run and if you ever decide to sell the welder you will get your money back or even more. It is not so much the extra amperage its the better duty cycle at higher amperage.
finn
Well-known member
A Primeweld mig180 with a spool gun costs $549.Just remember you can weld everything with a 250 amp welder that you can with a 180 amp welder. Meaning if I were you I'd go for a 250 amp machine if you have 220 volt service. You will be happier in the long run and if you ever decide to sell the welder you will get your money back or even more. It is not so much the extra amperage its the better duty cycle at higher amperage.
A Millermatic 252 runs $4300 at Baker’s gas, and the spool gun alone runs $500 at Cyberweld.
You’re looking at a $4250 premium because you “someday” may want to weld half inch plate.
Miller makes good machines. I have a couple. But I also have a couple of HTP welders, and a Primeweld. Nothing wrong with them either, and you aren’t paying for the blue paint. I have had welders for 37 years, and have never needed more than a 180 sized machine.
The average home shop doesn't usually do enough welding to NEED a high duty cycle at high amps...thus why I suggest to anyone to very carefully and realistically try to figure out what you will actually be doing. Easy to forecast a few jobs ahead, but pretty hard to think 30 years in advance. It is possible to design heavy welds in multi-pass configuration - thus use a lot less machine (but then needing the high duty cycle). Multi pass large welds can impart less residual stress in a joint - if designed properly.It is not so much the extra amperage its the better duty cycle at higher amperage.
KSJeff
Well-known member
I have the primeweld 180 and haven't had any issues with it. It does list a 30% duty cycle, which I would classify as light duty which is what you're going to get generally under $1K. I'd 100% get the gas bottle to go with it. The primeweld also supports stick and comes with a stinger, but I've never used it.
...I doubt if Lincoln, or any other “major brand” like Miller, for that matter, will have major service parts for their entry level homeowner welders. If you pony up for a $5-20k commercial welder they might have parts in 20 years, but I wouldn’t count on that.
I wouldn't count on that even with the industrial line of welders. Miller Axcess 450's were discontinued around 8 or so years ago and repair parts are getting tough to find. If one of those machines needs service, its a 50/50 chance that it will actually be able to be repaired. We've been stealing parts off other dead machines to keep some of the ones we have running.
Max78
Well-known member
I just went through this about a year ago.
It was either
Hobart 180
Primeweld 180
I went with the hobart because it fits my needs really well, is a super robust welder, has the ability to run aluminum with a spool gun as well but you have to buy it seperate. I got it at tractor supply on sale.
I'm second guessing my decision because I would like to do tig, and stick would be handy for a project I have coming up.
It was either
Hobart 180
Primeweld 180
I went with the hobart because it fits my needs really well, is a super robust welder, has the ability to run aluminum with a spool gun as well but you have to buy it seperate. I got it at tractor supply on sale.
I'm second guessing my decision because I would like to do tig, and stick would be handy for a project I have coming up.
vpd66
Well-known member
I once thought like that until I burned up a 150amp Miller years ago. I then moved up to a 250 amp machine an never looked back. Most 250amp machines will run fine on 240 volt 30 amp outlet. If someone doesn't have that outlet it doesn't cost that much to put one in.The average home shop doesn't usually do enough welding to NEED a high duty cycle at high amps...thus why I suggest to anyone to very carefully and realistically try to figure out what you will actually be doing. Easy to forecast a few jobs ahead, but pretty hard to think 30 years in advance. It is possible to design heavy welds in multi-pass configuration - thus use a lot less machine (but then needing the high duty cycle). Multi pass large welds can impart less residual stress in a joint - if designed properly.
My old AC/DC machine is a 250Amp Miller - and the most inefficient welding machine I have ever encountered. Will trip a 50A breaker when pushed to limits. Also been dead reliable for almost 40 years, so I can't be too upset. At the opposite end of the scale, I need to throw a clamp on ammeter at the 255 because it seems to barely load anything (no surges in other circuits).I then moved up to a 250 amp machine an never looked back. Most 250amp machines will run fine on 240 volt 30 amp outlet.
I do autobody to race car chassis items. I was just going to get a Lincoln 140t but then I was thinking I do some heavier stuff so the 180 came to mind. I'm looking for a reliable all around mig welder that will last me the next 20yrs or so. We also do some 4x4 chassis stuff but not often.Before I recommend a Welder, please tell me what you want to do with it.
I chose a Hobart Stickmate with both AC & DC outputs.
I had done very little Stick Welding and only a little gas welding.
My Stick Welder is capable of welding a ship together, but I don’t expect to be able to weld razor blades or beer cans, TIG would be more appropriate.
Some people are very happy to have a 120 Volt Flux core wire without gas, others go for the gas shielded wire feed, or MIG welders.
Buy the machine most suitable for the work you plan to do.
There is no one simple answer to what will be the best, but some of the Multi Process machines are very close to being a good fit for almost any job you can throw at it.
nadogail
Well-known member
Thanks
The Lincoln 180, or the comparable Blue or Gray machines should serve you very well.I do autobody to race car chassis items. I was just going to get a Lincoln 140t but then I was thinking I do some heavier stuff so the 180 came to mind. I'm looking for a reliable all around mig welder that will last me the next 20yrs or so. We also do some 4x4 chassis stuff but not often.
IRQVET
Well-known member
Hobart 180 is a SOLID choice, and you can save money by buying a refribrished model at www.hobartweldshop.com
I got a refurbished Hobart 210 almost 10 years ago, never had an issue and it welds excellent.
I got a refurbished Hobart 210 almost 10 years ago, never had an issue and it welds excellent.
Rusted Nut
Well-known member
I have a Miller 211, great machine. I’ve done auto body sheet metal repair, welded a flatbed together, etc... Very versatile machine, flux core, gas, spool gun for alum, etc.. 3/8” single pass, 120/208/240, very good duty cycle.
Jswain
Well-known member
Lincoln 180 will be fine for what you are looking to do. Should have no problem lasting 20 years and there have been so many of them sold I doubt parts will be a problem.I do autobody to race car chassis items. I was just going to get a Lincoln 140t but then I was thinking I do some heavier stuff so the 180 came to mind. I'm looking for a reliable all around mig welder that will last me the next 20yrs or so. We also do some 4x4 chassis stuff but not often.
In 5 or 10 years if you want to upgrade you'll still be able to sell it for a good price since you stuck with a name brand
joe_pinehill1
Well-known member
Also, as a hobby welder, I find a self dimming welders mask is a must.
rocket29
Member
I agree with purchasing an auto-darkening mask. My welding improved tremendiously when I bought mine. I decided to buy a Miller brand mask. Not cheap but I did not want to take a chance with a cheap HF mask. You only have one pair of eyes.
milkovich
Well-known member
All my boxes are Lincoln or Miller that I bought new but the markup Lincoln and Miller are charging for their consumer/hobby grade machines is unconscionable these days, especially on no-frill, inverter boxes. I think people are waking up to this because the used prices are going lower and lower so you can't even justify it with the resale price. My friend just bought a Vulcan mig and Primeweld tig and I'm jealous of his setup. Starting from scratch, I'd save a ton on a new welder so I could spend more on a really nice, comfortable, arc sensing hood which will make your welding 1000% easier (and better). I have had a miller digital elite hood for years and it's really nice, definitely worth the money.
By all means, get a 230V machine that uses gas and the ability to use a spool gun for future proofing.I do autobody to race car chassis items. I was just going to get a Lincoln 140t but then I was thinking I do some heavier stuff so the 180 came to mind. I'm looking for a reliable all around mig welder that will last me the next 20yrs or so. We also do some 4x4 chassis stuff but not often.
I moved up from a Hobart 175 to a Hobart Ironman 230. Extremely happy with Hobart products.