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Welder wiring help needed! Diagnose wire feeder and rewire

fordkid88

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Nov 10, 2013
Messages
680
Alright guys I'm at a loss and need some help, I found a Miller cp-200 power source with a xra wire feeder for 250 but the gun was well worn out and didn't seem cost effective to fix. A couple days later I found an S-60 with psa-2 adapter for 200 and then a 250 amp tough gun whip for 50.

All in all I feel like I was coming in at a good price for it. I did the conversion last night and powered it up and everything seemed to be working so I hooked up the S-60 and I hit the purge switch and gas flowed, feeder worked at varying speeds at the switch. I tested it on the whip and the only thing to work was the rollers. I'm not sure what to call it but the arc switch in the welder did not engage.

I damn near emptied a can of contact cleaner on hoping something was messed up but that did nothing.

Let it sit overnight before I realized I never tested the xra on it. That worked fine, I had gas, wire, and the arc switch engaged.

I looked at the plugs, they are both the 14 pin but wired very differently. I'm hoping that this is where someone here would be able to point me in right direction to get the ball rolling.

These are from the S-60
PXL-20210724-235109103-2.jpg
PXL-20210724-235114851-2.jpg
PXL-20210724-235129383-2.jpg

These two shots are from the xra.
PXL-20210724-235143511.jpg
PXL-20210724-235151519.jpg

I'm going to test the relay in the power supply in the next day or two because it occured to me as I type this that I've heard no clicks from the relay in the psa-2. But if anyone has any experience with doing the this type work I'd be extremely greatful, I'd even find a way to get you a good six pack of beer.
 
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Walkers

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May 17, 2021
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Cave Creek Az
For starters download the manual from the Miller site. I run a 60 series off my XMT 304. I did have to replace a relay that had a broken wire inside. You can actually see inside the relays and tell what is contacting. The manual should have the pin out IiRC. Also, Miller’s tech support is top notch, even for decades old machines. If you can’t figure it out give them a call. Have the tin off the machines and multimeter in hand when you do.
 
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fordkid88

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Joined
Nov 10, 2013
Messages
680
For starters download the manual from the Miller site. I run a 60 series off my XMT 304. I did have to replace a relay that had a broken wire inside. You can actually see inside the relays and tell what is contacting. The manual should have the pin out IiRC. Also, Miller’s tech support is top notch, even for decades old machines. If you can’t figure it out give them a call. Have the tin off the machines and multimeter in hand when you do.
I've downloaded both of the manual for the welder and the wire feeder. I have not contacted miller yet. The pins do seem to be in the right place. That's why I'm now inclined to think it's the relay.
 

Walkers

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Messages
3,912
Location
Cave Creek Az
I've downloaded both of the manual for the welder and the wire feeder. I have not contacted miller yet. The pins do seem to be in the right place. That's why I'm now inclined to think it's the relay.
I’ll see if I can get a pic of my cable tonight
 

htmdude57

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Apr 28, 2014
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Location
Hudson Valley, New York
Those are AMP connectors. In my experience, (1980-2000) I have found that they were prone to not making good contact. There is a pin extraction tool you can get to remove the contacts from the shell. If you remove the female contacts you will find that they have a tab inside them that is supposed to make contact with the male pin. Sometimes the tab bends away and then you won't have electrical contact between the male and the female contact. You can press the tab gently down to improve electrical connection between the male and female contact. It might be a better idea to replace the contacts with new ones. In one picture they look oxidized (rusty).
 
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fordkid88

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Nov 10, 2013
Messages
680
Those are AMP connectors. In my experience, (1980-2000) I have found that they were prone to not making good contact. There is a pin extraction tool you can get to remove the contacts from the shell. If you remove the female contacts you will find that they have a tab inside them that is supposed to make contact with the male pin. Sometimes the tab bends away and then you won't have electrical contact between the male and the female contact. You can press the tab gently down to improve electrical connection between the male and female contact. It might be a better idea to replace the contacts with new ones. In one picture they look oxidized (rusty).
They're oxidized, I plan on hard wiring it as I don't need it to be modular.
 
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fordkid88

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Nov 10, 2013
Messages
680
I confirmed the wiring was right by manually cycling the relay as it in engaged the arc switch.

I sat at the machine pulling the trigger on the gun when it occured to me that the gas should flow when I pull trigger. Logically it makes sense that when the trigger is pulled regardless of being hooked into a welder it would still flow the gas, I think my problem is somewhere in the wire feeder internals.
 

Walkers

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3,912
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Cave Creek Az
This was a problem I had with those clear relays that have all the moving parts. Watch them closely for good contact and no broken or misaligned parts.
Pull the tin and post a picture of what you have.
 
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fordkid88

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Nov 10, 2013
Messages
680
PXL-20210727-212235047-2.jpg

I brought it into to work to have and our maintenance super genius has been helping me diagnose it. He doesn't believe it's in the power supply but inside of the of the feeder itself. I did a test on the on the relay after work to see if it was getting voltage from the the feeder and it's not getting voltage from the feeder when the trigger is being pulled. I'm also not getting voltage to the gas selanoid when the trigger is being pulled.
 
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