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Welder wiring info needed

over40pirate

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Aug 31, 2012
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My metal building has an outlet for a welder. I want to move the welder outside, to a carport area.The additional wiring needs to be 20' long.
I want to use the exsisting outlet in the shop.
What type wire? In conduit?
Can I just make up an extension cord? It will have to go thru a wall.
Would it be in code to run stranded wire thru conduit, with a box/outlet on one end, and a plug on the other and?

Not expecting the code police in the shop at any time, but.....
 
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ford33

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Pictures and information on the welder amperage would be helpful.

Also, not clear why you are considering an extension cord or conduit. What do you want to use?
 

Norcal

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By code flexible cords are not a substitute for permanent wiring, & is not permitted to pass through walls, doorways, windows,& such.
 
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over40pirate

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Pictures and information on the welder amperage would be helpful.

Also, not clear why you are considering an extension cord or conduit. What do you want to use?

Its an old Forney 240 amp (?) Welder. I never use more than 140 amps.
I want to be able to unplug, so I can plug in my wood planer.
Don't want to have to add another breaker.
 

Aceman

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Its an old Forney 240 amp (?) Welder. I never use more than 140 amps.
I want to be able to unplug, so I can plug in my wood planer.
Don't want to have to add another breaker.

The breaker size necessary for the welder may not be the same as what's needed for the planer.
 

nadogail

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A welder extension cord is IMHO a practical answer to your problem.

My Hobart Stickmate is plugged into a cord I made from 4 conductor 8 gauge SO cable plugged into a 50 amp range receptacle.

If I had to run the cable through an exterior wall, I most probably would build a tiny " Doggy Door " in the wall.
 
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Know Wosad

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I just ran three #6 about 75 feet from a 50 amp breaker.
Cost me abouuuuuut $130 including breaker and receptacle. Whys screw around ? Prepare for anything you might get drunk and buy :p
 
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over40pirate

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The outlet works fine with the welder, as well as planer.
I measured the cord on the welder again (20') and realized if I moved the welder right next to the wall of the building, under the "carport" area, the cord will reach the outlet, if I drill a hole in the wall. It's 6ga NM-B romex

I have read different things about NM-B romex in conduit.
I read somewhere that NM romex cannot be run in a damp location, and that inside conduit was considered damp.
Is this true if the conduit is inside a building?
 

matt_i

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I would hardwire a new receptacle, the same as your other one, on the other side of the wall, connected to same circuit. Use conduit to penetrate the wall.

It will probably require an oversized junction box to make the connections one side or the other, your choice. You could use terminal blocks, polaris connectors or well-taped split-bolts.

Now you have the flexibility to use the machine on either side of the wall.
 
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over40pirate

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I will never be using the welder in the shop. It's my wood shop with lots of sawdust!
To wire another outlet, I believe I would need another 240 breaker, plus wire if NM romex is not allowed in conduit in the shop.
I'm trying to do the KISS method, but by code if possible.

Here's a couple more code questions.
1. If NM romex is allowed in conduit in the shop, can the conduit end, with the NM coming out of it, plugged into an outlet?
2. Can you run 6ga NM romex, and 10 or 12 ga NM romex in the same conduit?
If so, I would run a second romex cable for my HH140 mig.
 
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pattenp

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Regardless of Romex being allowed in conduit it's not allowed to be used with a plug as you would with cord. Romex is approved only as permanent building wire.
 

matt_i

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Personally I see no issue with an NM wire properly stapled, then run into an open-ended conduit for an above-ground, in-building purpose. For all intents and purposes its just greater protection for the wire jacket, the last staple serves as strain-relief. If the cut-end of an EMT there is a plastic bushing made so any wire does not chafe the burr on the end. It could look better by having the traditional 2-screw "pinch clamp" secure the NM to a single- or double- gang box, and then begin the conduit run from another knockout on the same box. No connections would be made inside of that box.

Continue conduits to your junction box holding the receptacle...ideally a 4" square with extended cover where the receptacle mounts directly to the cover. No blue plastic stuff here. The metallic box will need a ground pigtail.
 

Slednut

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Washington state
Make one of these but longer.

I would make sure the breaker rating is correct for the welder.

This is what I use to run a heater so I changed the 50 amp breaker out for a 30.

I also never leave the breaker on, I shut the heater off with the breaker.

BTW, I also made one for my air conditioner.
 

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