Welder

[PearlWhiteGT]

I'm looking to purchase my first welder for DIY stuff at home. I have no experience with welding so will be learning how to on this machine. At the moment I only have 110 volt set up in my garage. Not looking for some high end machine but do want something that is good, reliable and to keep for a long time. Any advice and recommendations would be much appreciated.

 

[cannuck]

with 120v and probably 15A service, you will be severely limited in what you can do. Definitely go with an inverter machine. Don't be afraid of used if money is tight. The big buck brand name stuff is genuinely good but there are some very well proven off-peak brands (Prime, etc.) that can deliver blue/red/yellow box performance on a budget. Any chance you have two side-by-side breakers feeding two circuits in the garage? If you do you could make up a cheater cord to get 240V.

 

[loganb]

The Primewelds have great reviews, lots of features and a very active FB user group. Customer service is also often raved about as well

 

[gizardlizard]

Second the primeweld. Check into the 180

 

[GeoBruin]

I recommend a machine that will work on 110/220 so if/when you get to the point where you decide to upgrade your power, your machine is ready.

I have two Lincolns and if I were to buy a new machine today, it would probably be a primeweld. There are enough of them out there now and they have been working long enough to have a track record and a wide user base. I just can't see spending the money on a red or blue welder as a hobbyist.

 

[PearlWhiteGT]

with 120v and probably 15A service, you will be severely limited in what you can do. Definitely go with an inverter machine. Don't be afraid of used if money is tight. The big buck brand name stuff is genuinely good but there are some very well proven off-peak brands (Prime, etc.) that can deliver blue/red/yellow box performance on a budget. Any chance you have two side-by-side breakers feeding two circuits in the garage? If you do you could make up a cheater cord to get 240V.

My breaker box is all the way on the other side of the house. My laundry room which has the 220 dryer plug is right on the opposite side of the wall in my garage.

 

[TRLKC]

I was in the same boat as you a bit ago when I retired. Always wanted to learn to weld, no better time than when I retired, right? I was very fortunate and through a friend, got a very nice used low hour Miller MultiMatic at an unbelievable price. Great welder, but VERY expensive unless you find a deal like I did. I was however also considering the Hobart (owned by Miller transformer based welders). Tractor Supply currently has the Hobart Handler 140 on sale $50 off. It would be a nice little MiG to learn on and do odd projects. You didn't mention a budget, but if your's supports it, the Hobart Handler 190 and Hobart Handler 210 are certainly more robust. While you only have 110V now, these machines have the capability of running on either 110V or 220V. Because you're looking for a "longterm keeper" It's good to have options for what the future might bring. Along that same line of thinking, if your budget allows, you might consider a multi-process welder that can give you MIG, TIG and stick capabilities. The Lincoln Electric WELD-PAK 180i MP DV is a decent entry into this. I have a buddy with one who likes it. The Hobart Multi-Handler 200 might also be a consideration if it's in your budget. Again all these can run on 110V, though with lower material thickness handling than with 220V. I am not a pro, and others will have far greater knowledge than me on the topic. But, I will say that I did take an evening adult ed class at the local VoTech and I'd suggest you do the same. You'll learn a whole lot and will get the experience and advice of the instructor who, at least in my case, had years of commercial welding experience. Good luck, be safe, and have fun!

 

[Notgrownup]

My little promig runs on 120, I can use flux wire but I use the gas option. If you can get one that you can convert to gas, do it. The welds are so much nicer.

 

[loganb]

The Primeweld 160 or 180 are both 120v capable machines. With the dryer that close, you could make/buy an extension cord to run the welder on 240v IF you get to the point that it becomes your limiting factor. However with this being a learning machine, I think you're likely a long way from the 120v becoming the limiting factor as that means you're welding some pretty stout stuff

 

[JeepYJ]

Primeweld.
You’ll need some extra cash for all the accessories you’ll need. Helmet, gloves, hammer, jacket/apron, rods/wire, clamps, table (Northern Tool or HF), grinders, grinding discs, wire wheels, etc

 

[MovingAlong]

I'm looking to purchase my first welder for DIY stuff at home. I have no experience with welding so will be learning how to on this machine. At the moment I only have 110 volt set up in my garage. Not looking for some high end machine but do want something that is good, reliable and to keep for a long time. Any advice and recommendations would be much appreciated.

Have had my little 80 amp DC Harbor Freight "toaster" for a decade or so. Runs on 15 amp 110v just fine. You'll get the power out that you put in though... meaning if you are using 100ft 16 gauge dropcord, setting it at 30 amps might be stretching it. Closer you are to the source, the better off you'll be and the hotter you can weld.

I've used it for making brackets, fixtures, jigs, tools, furniture, etc. for quite a while and am very happy with it. Also have a 220v AC welder for bigger things but hardly ever need it.

Something to know about welding: if your stick welds look good then they are good, your MIG weld can look smooth as caulking but have no penetration at all. Obviously these are gross generalizations but you get the idea...

For myself, I started with Oxy/Act, moved to stick and have dabbled with both MIG (aluminum & steel) and TIG (stainless). MIG is awesome and fun to do, but wouldn't recommend someone start there.

 

[cgrutt]

I bought a small Lincoln flux-core on a whim about fifteen years ago. Converted it to gas afterwards. Being 120V limits you to relatively thin steel (or aluminum with the right gun and wire) or sheetmetal. It did a fairly good job at replacing a quarter panel on my old truck and I now think sheetmetal is where these 120v machines excel. If I had to do it all over I'd buy at least a 180 that was capable of 120/240. The Lincoln is nice but I'm sure they are all similar. I'd love to get a Miller that could handle TIG as well as MIG but read alot of positive reviews about the Primeweld over the years. One thing I can offer from personal experience is to buy larger than you think you'll need if you can afford to do so. You'll probably be disappointed with a small welder that can only support 120v unless all you plan to work on is sheetmetal.

 

[FLHCHAZ]

I have an Eastwood 140 mig set up, I've added sheilding gas. I'm a DIYer and it works for me. The machine was under $300.00 and then I bought an HF cart and got a bottle and gas from a local supplier. I recommend the welder, unless you are welding anything over 3/16

 

[sqznby]

I think someone said it already, but Tractor Supply has some deals going on with their Hobart machines.
And if you have one local, you'll have everything you need for said machine at your fingertips. Well, maybe accept gas.
If all you have is 110v, grab yourself a Hobart Handler 140 and roll with it. Heck troll marketplace and you'll probably find a few.

 

[pbon]

I literally just went through the shopping process — bought a Primeweld 180 yesterday. Dual voltage and comes with an aluminum spool gun and is obviously flux or gas capable and can even do mild steel TIG. Great reviews, even from pros who use them as a home or backup machine.

My budget was much bigger. I have an Eastwood Mig 135 and gas for it so I wanted a more powerful welder. I am giving the 135 to my father in law. I wanted to buy an HTP Propulse 220 but it is 220V only and I’d like to have the option of taking it with me somewhere where there may be only 110V. The HTP is about $2000. The HTP that would have been perfect, the Revolution, is dual voltage but about $5000 equipped the way I want it. It can do AC tig as well so it could replace my AC DC Tig as well as my 135 MiG. But $5000 is too much for me right now,

I looked at the Hobart 210, which gets good reviews and found one with a spool gun for abound $1300. Dual voltage but transformer based so it is heavy at 70 lbs and that reduces the portability option for me. I found its brother the Miller 211 for about $1700 with spool gun after the $500 rebate on the welder and $300 rebate on the gun. Lincoln is cheaper than Miller and popular among the old timers but reviews were more mixed. There were also recommendations to look at HF Vulcan, and I did briefly but came back to the Primeweld 180 as the best value and quality among budget welders.

I briefly considered a bigger Eastwood, but think the Primeweld is better. I also briefly considered cheaper Chinese welders like Yes and Arc Captain but reviews were mixed.

Some also say buy a used Miller on Craigslist, but you never know for sure what you are getting. If a friend was selling, that would be different. Also repairs on a used Miller could be more than a new Primeweld.

Anyway, whatever you buy, it is great you are getting into welding.

 

[Toold_up]

I recently bought a HF Chicago Electric Mig 170 for $50. They are ~$200 new. I read some reviews and watched some youtube videos and it looks like a cheap enough machine to learn with. It's 220v so you would have to tap into your dryer outlet if you go that route.

Good luck!

 

[cannuck]

My breaker box is all the way on the other side of the house. My laundry room which has the 220 dryer plug is right on the opposite side of the wall in my garage.

Two things this thread has brought up by now: 1. - what kind of welding do you want to learn to do? 2. - What is your tolerance for doing some wiring?

As has been mentioned, most of the machines so far are wire feeders. You can usually buy them as flux core but able to upgrade to gas shield. If you want to learn SMAW (i.e. stick) or GTAW (i.e. Tig) you will need either more machines or one able to do all 3. At 120V 15A you are best off with an inverter GMAW (i.e. Mig) but able 120/240 so you can grow your power supply with demand/needs. Most dryer plugs are 30A of 40A but 4 wire (neutral and ground to be able to split off 120 inside device). Check with a sparky, but I believe you can just add another receptacle to the circuit as long as it matches wire size and breaker capacity. In my shop I have 20A 240 all over the place (in shared 120 circuits) and a couple of 30A twist locks for bigger loads. All welder plugs are 50A but my 2 miller inverters can be plugged into literally any outlet in the shop (with right cord). I will often use 211 on 120 in remote places as quite easy to do. BUT: on 120V 20A is a heck of a lot nicer than 15.

 

[pbon]

My breaker box is all the way on the other side of the house. My laundry room which has the 220 dryer plug is right on the opposite side of the wall in my garage.

If you later decide to access this 220, do it right. I don’t believe code allows multiple outlets on 220. There is probably a way around that, maybe moving the 220 cable into the garage and putting some type of box on on it that allows the power to go to either the dryer or welder but not both at the same time.

 

[tworley]

I had a Lincoln 3200 120v welder for a couple of years. It was limited to about 1/8" material without multiple passes. It was a fun machine to learn on though.

I recently stepped up to the Lincoln 211i with 240v. Night and day difference. The 211i has a convertor plug that you can use to plug into 120v if you don't have 240v.

 

[Steve_P]

I have a 30-year-old Lincoln MIG and an even older Miller stick machine. If I was buying today, I'd either go Primeweld or Hobart.

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[milkovich]

My first welder (25 years ago now) was a little Lincoln SP135T, I see them on marketplace for $100-150 all the time. They're a great 110v machine and I still use it all the time since sheet metal and exhaust are about 90% of what I weld. I recently had to buy a feeder for it and you can still get parts.

 

[dawgn86]

anyone use the HF Titanium Easy Flux 125?
I have never welded, but would like to learn and have something smaller for repairs on mower decks, etc

 

[NUTTSGT]

I'm a Hobart owner and will recommend them.


I'll second the option for dual voltage for when you are ready for electrical upgrading and also for the gas option.

Miller is great but can be pricey for the home DIY'er. Nothing wrong with the red box from Lincoln

Over the last few years, many here have complimented Primeweld.

Check out Cyberweld.com or if you have a TSC locally, check them out for Hobart.

 

[theoldwizard1]

Buy a welder that is 120/240 capable and gas provisions for shield gas.

 

[finn]

My first welder was a transformer based HTP 120 v unit. Still have it after almost forty years. Works great for automotive.

Bought a HTP AC/DC tig, then a used Millermatic 175. Bought a Primeweld 225x, then a Miller Multimatic 220. Sold the Millermatic 175.

All three HTP, Miller, and Primeweld make good machines, but Primeweld is the one I would recommend to someone on a budget looking to start welding.

 

[Wrench97]

I ran a 120v Miller 135 for better then 10 years, exhaust pipes, door tracks, sheet metal, up to 3/16" thick steel with no issues.
It was abused to heck being dragged around a freight dock on a skid transported to different locations etc did everything I needed it to do anything heavier I had a stick unit to use but was married to where 240v was available.

 

[Schurkey]

The single-best thing I ever did to improve my welds (beyond actual training/practice) was to sell my 120V machine and buy a 240V unit.

 

[john.k]

I was and am amazed at the power of the little inverter stick welders .......current draw from the house wiring seems to be minimal compared to the old 'box ' welders ...which dimmed the lights ,blew fuzes ,and produced near zero weld power..........I ve got two 400 amp Lincoln diesel welders ,have not bothered with them since I bought the inverter about 10 years ago.............the other thing about the inverters is the work on long extension leads ......maybe 60 ft of lead .........cost of the inverters is so low ,if they malfunction,just throw them away ............I recall where I worked had a ealy Esseti 140 inverter ,cost $1100 in 1995 money ,and needed repair all the time ...........when it was working ,it was magic to weld with .

 

[Lassen Forge]

When I learned, it was on a Tombstone. Fairly inexpensive G-D bulletproof welder, and between that and an oxy-acetylene torch set could do almost anything I needed. It needed 240 to run, but I had a "jumper cable" between the welder plug and my dryer plug.

Years later, I had a Miller 211 that was almost perfect for around the house jobs - I could run it off 120 (my little honda genset) or use an adapter to plug it and an extension cord into the dryer or stove outlet to do heavier stuff. Good all around machine, the only downside is it wouldn't do stick or tig. But for learning the basics, running beads for practice (Super important to learn speed, angle, and sound control) it was hard to beat... OR... if you have 240 available, get a cheap used Tombstone. Nothing better (IMO) to learn the basics on.

The main thing is while you're learning, you need a machine that just runs and welds well. You're going to be putting down a LOT of beads to get your speed, penetration, timing, sound, and angles right. LOTS and lots of scrap steel to run lots of beads. Plenty of gas and wire or rod stock. Remember - welding is an art, and to be an artist takes practice. (Thats why I'm still a fan of the tombstones... )

Almost forgot - Gear! Good welding gloves and a GOOD helmet (man, those wide screen auto darks - wish they had THOSE when I was learning!) Button down thick cotton or work shirt (that WILL get effed up), a welder's cap to keep your hair and scalp from catching fire, and sure, a leather apron to save yer pants (and junk if you dare weld naked ) And boots. LEATHER boots or work shoes. NOT EFFING CANVAS - well, go aheadm until that forst glob of molten steel hits the top and into the top of your foot... That gets, um, distracting.

Don't expect to start out Tig welding Ultralight aircraft and titanium bicycle frames... baby steps!! You'll get good soon enough.

 

[john.k]

Not naked ,but welding squatting down can cause later discomfort...............well known fact that bigger rods shield more of the rays ,small rods are like TIG which will find any tiny thin patch or hole in your garments .................arc gouging is worst ,dont think youll be doing any on a small inverter ...but who knows.

 

[PearlWhiteGT]

I'm looking at options to install a 220v outlet in my garage. My panel is all the way on the opposite side of the house. And I don't have any more room to add to it. Can I use some sort of sub panel? Any advice would be much appreciated.

 

[Toold_up]

I'm looking at options to install a 220v outlet in my garage. My panel is all the way on the opposite side of the house. And I don't have any more room to add to it. Can I use some sort of sub panel? Any advice would be much appreciated.

I'm not an electrician but I believe that as long as your main box isn't over loaded you can add a sub panel. If you are out of space for breakers in your main you may be SOL unless you do some unwiring.

 

[PearlWhiteGT]

Thanks, I think I still have some space but not much if I remember correctly. I'm assuming I'd need a 50 amp double pole breaker if I wanted to wire it directly to my main panel. Just not sure if I can fit that size of breaker in there.

 

[pbon]

If a 20 or 30A 220v breaker fits, a 50A fits.

 

[finn]

Most lower power inverter welders won’t draw 50 amps and, unless you’re doing structural welding for a bridge, it’s unlikely that you’ll need more than thirty amps at 240 volts.

Always nice to have more, but the heavier wire is expensive and harder to pull in an existing structure.

Figure out what welder you want, and design your circuit around that.

I would try to add a secondary panel using your existing dryer circuit, but it’s probable that the wire is too short. Maybe you could use the dryer wiring to pull a heavier, and longer wire to a new panel, then run the dryer off that panel, too. Add a couple of 20 amps 120v circuits for the garage, while you’re at it, since builders are notorious for under wiring garages.

 

[pbon]

If you won’t be in your house forever, consider labeling the 50A receptacle as good for only 30A if you decide to undersize the wire because the welder duty cycle does not actually require 6 gauge. Someone else in the future might repurpose the other.

 

[rustedgoat]

You really need to figure out what you are going to be doing. If you just want to play with welding that's much different than I need to fabricate structural braces for a farm project.

I picked up a used 120v Lincoln Weld-Pak 100 with the gas tank, nothing to brag about on any level. More importantly I was able to plug in to the outlet I had available and was welding. A few grinders, hand shears, hammers and dollies and I'm playing with sheet metal projects. I'm still learning and autobody sheet metal repair is my main goal. If for some reason I need to start playing with > 1/8" or chassis repair then I'll have to upgrade the welder along with equipment to cut and bend the thicker stuff.

 

[molefab]

Primeweld ,AWESOME ,both mig and tig !!

 

[hefnerconstructionlc]

If you don't want to pull a new outlet. Just get a splitter and use the outlet on the dryer. And obviously don't run both units at the same time. Then run yourself an extension cord to where you're working.

 

[hefnerconstructionlc]

You may need to make an adapter or change the plug to go from the dryer to the welder. But that's not a big thing. Then you can be up in welding for a little over a hundred bucks and you don't have to rewire everything. It's not a perfect solution but it's pretty good one. And it's quick.