Welding aluminum?

[evintho]

I need to weld seven 1/4" studs to the back of an all aluminum grille to mount in my roadster nose. I have a Hobart 220v MIG. Is it just a matter of buying a small spool of aluminum welding wire and installing it in the MIG? I've never welded aluminum before. Softer metal, lower melting point? What should I set the MIG to? The studs are steel while the grille is aluminum. Is that even doable? I don't want to ruin this new grille!

 

[Milton Shaw]

You and nobody else can weld aluminum to steel. Those three raised bosses on the grill are usually there to drill, tap and use studs to bolt the grill on. That would be the best method of attaching that. Looks also like you would need to fabricate some mounting plates also.

 

[dr_clyde]

Yeah,

You can't weld aluminum to steel with common welding methods. It's technically possible, but not in the home shop, or even most industrial shops.

I would see if you can either source some aluminum studs, or just drill and tap the bosses as mentioned before. You can then thread in steel studs into the tapped holes.

Be aware that aluminum threads aren't as durable as steel.

 

[evintho]

OK, how about aluminum threaded rod? I can just cut a few 1" lengths and weld 'em on using aluminum wire. Local welder wanted $50 minimum to do it. The bosses on the grille don't fit inside the opening. Yeah, I could cut the opening bigger, 'glass some mounting brackets into the nose, yada, yada, yada but it just seems easier to weld some studs to the grille and drill the appropriate holes in the nose. Anyone know of some online aluminum welding tutorials?

https://www.grainger.com/product/10...kwcid=AL!2966!3!264974130391!!!g!467374301964!

 

[Ditchdigger]

To do this you would need a bottle of 100% Argon shielding gas. The mix gas you use for steel will not work. You will also need to replace the liner in your MIG cable as the coatings on steel wire will contaminate the aluminum wire running through it. After you do both these things you will get lots of bird nests of the aluminum wire and curse it. Once you realize you have to run the MIG cables almost perfectly straight to allow the soft wire to pass through easily you will hate the results.

A spool gun is the only way I have ever been successful with a MIG and Aluminum. I will always use the TIG if I can.

 

[Dagny]

TIG torch.

 

[dr_clyde]

I run a welding shop and I would probably charge more than $50.

You're gonna have more than $50 into it by the time you buy gas, wire and practice to the point where you don't FUBAR this.

BTW, most MIG welders don't feed aluminum well. You'll need a spool gun or a push-pull gun.

Hire this one out.

 

[txvwnut]

Drill and tap the bosses for studs and drill matching holes in the nose for the studs to pass through. That grill piece appears to be cast aluminum and cast al doesn’t weld very well.

 

[Kaizen]

The dr. Is right. Farm it out. Not worth the expense of the spool and tank.
Also FYI not all tig machines can do aluminum


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[The Cobbler]

yeah, for $50 , I think it's a deal

 

[zkling]

Anyone know of some online aluminum welding tutorials?

The fact that you have to ask this and not have the ambition to search yourself, indicates that you will likely not see the learning process through. Your requirement that it "has to be done right", hire it out. Even at $60 you will be time, money, and headaches ahead.

I have welded a few things like this before and in my experience the decorative pieces, such as a grille, are made from the cheapest of alloys. Which makes welding them unpredictable.

 

[kazlx]

your requirement that it "has to be done right", hire it out. Even at $200 you will be time, money, and headaches ahead...

fwiw....

 

[steel 35]

I have a Hobart 220v MIG. Is it just a matter of buying a small spool of aluminum welding wire and installing it in the MIG?

Depending on the model, you may be able to get a spool gun about 350. The argon bottle quoted around 400. plus the wire, stainless brush, Spare tips ect;
Its a nice option to have, but not something to try and get the first project done and Lots of practice in this one.
Its still easy to screw something like this up

 

[Fix Until Broke]

Just another approach instead of welding/drilling/tapping/etc

3M VHB Tape - Unbelievably strong!

https://www.3m.com/3M/en_US/vhb-tapes-us/

 

[matt_i]

As Stated Above: The 3 cast bosses would be perfect places to drill & tap some blind holes to hold it in from the backside.

 

[gorilla]

I live in Santa Rosa so I know what things cost here, for $50.00 all you'l get is someone squirting those on with a spool gun. Not really the kind of work you want. Drill and tap the boss's on the grill or mount it with SS'T button head screws.

 

[astroracer]

Make a template out of poster board right on the back of the grille.
Start with the three bosses and build it out of pieces so it lays flat on the grille.
Trim it to match the outside shape. Lay it on the nose, line it up where you want it and mark the locations of the holes. Drill those out so the bosses will fit snugly.
Drill and tap the bosses for 1/4-20 thread. Cut some all-thread (or a long bolt) to length to make a stud and use thread locker when you screw it in. A big washer and nut will hold it in from the back side.
Bring it over Monday, shouldn't take more then an hour or two to do...
Mark

 

[SlappyWhite]

I would drill through the three boss locations and use a good looking stainless bolt from the outside. Something counter sunk so it is more or less flush when you are done.

 

[tonyprovo723]

Why steel studs? How about welding an alum hex head cap screw to the grill or an aluminum nut?

What size stud were you thinking? Thread wise?

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[Samh]

As Stated Above: The 3 cast bosses would be perfect places to drill & tap some blind holes to hold it in from the backside.

This. And if worried about the strength of the aluminum threads, run a steel threaded insert in it

 

[evintho]

OK, decided not to weld studs onto the grill. I'm gonna weld nuts to some brackets, 'glass the brackets to the inside of the nose and bolt the grill to those from the outside using SS buttonhead capscrews.

Right now, I'm forming this shoddily cast grill to the curvature of the fiberglass nose. Extensive grinding is required!

Next question:
The soft aluminum clogs the porous grinding wheel and also the flutes of carbide bits. Is there anything better to use to grind down aluminum? Also, how to clean the aluminum off the grinding wheel and carbide bits??

 

[dr_clyde]

OK, decided not to weld studs onto the grill. I'm gonna weld nuts to some brackets, 'glass the brackets to the inside of the nose and bolt the grill to those from the outside using SS buttonhead capscrews.

Right now, I'm forming this shoddily cast grill to the curvature of the fiberglass nose. Extensive grinding is required!

Next question:
The soft aluminum clogs the porous grinding wheel and also the flutes of carbide bits. Is there anything better to use to grind down aluminum? Also, how to clean the aluminum off the grinding wheel and carbide bits??

They make grinding wheels for aluminum, they don't load up. Walter and Rexcut make some, they work really nice.

For carbide burrs, you want to use a single cut burr, the flutes are spaced and ground for aluminum and soft metals. A double cut burr will load up quickly.

You can dissolve aluminum from the carbide burr with some muriatic acid. Just pour a bit in a paint mixing cup and put the burr in. The aluminum should bubble and foam as it dissolves.

As far as removing the aluminum from the grinding wheel, you're probably SOL on that one. A dressing stone MAY take it out, may not.

 

[evintho]

They make grinding wheels for aluminum, they don't load up. Walter and Rexcut make some, they work really nice.

For carbide burrs, you want to use a single cut burr, the flutes are spaced and ground for aluminum and soft metals. A double cut burr will load up quickly.

You can dissolve aluminum from the carbide burr with some muriatic acid. Just pour a bit in a paint mixing cup and put the burr in. The aluminum should bubble and foam as it dissolves.

As far as removing the aluminum from the grinding wheel, you're probably SOL on that one. A dressing stone MAY take it out, may not.

Thanks for the info! I'm gonna order a couple of aluminum grinding wheels and single cut carbide burrs for next time. Thank you very much!

 

[greg13]

Make sure you use Stainless bolts. Steel+aluminum=problems

 

[bugman53]

Stainless and aluminum is even worse! coated steel bolts are best. You can find them coated for this application. At worse the proper grade of anti seize.

 

[desertforge]

I really like the "dimpled" type grinding wheels for aluminum. Several companies make them but they have raised dots or diamonds of abrasive. These are slightly flexible type 29 wheels.

+1 on the single cut carbide burrs.

 

[joecon]

Place plastic washers under the heads of the cap screws them wrap electrical tape
around the top of the threads that will be in the aluminum to prevent any contact
between the steel and aluminum also use anti-seize on the threads to prevent
galling of the stainless steal.

 

[UglySign]

Why steel studs? How about welding an alum hex head cap screw to the grill or an aluminum nut?

What size stud were you thinking? Thread wise?

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@evintho
Dont pass up Lord Adhesives for Aluminum.
Alot of things are glued up out there in the sign world
and many other Aluminum projects.
MX-T18 gives you about 10~15mins working time thru the mixing tip
if you take a break. Order extra mixing straws.
Rough up all surfaces to get some 'tooth'.

Glues to steel/Al but SS & Al dont mix well, avoid it.



We glue nuts to a batch of things like this above. Excess cleans up w/ Acetone. Done deal. Weld w/ the Lord

 

[evintho]

Just an update.
Didn't need to build any brackets. Drilled through the outside of the grill and mounted it directly to the nose with 8mm x 25mm SS buttonhead screws. I think it looks just right! Thanks for all the info and replies!