Welding bench

[Garage5.9]

Looking to build a bench against a hollow tile brick wall , i plan on building the frame out of some 4x2 box tubing ( I think ) other suggestions welcomed. Just a simple rectangle maybe 2 1/2 or 3 feet deep and maybe 5 feet wide. Not to sure on what size legs yet but what my real question is how can i bolt it to the wall ? would cement anchor bolts be strong enough to hold this up along with 2 legs.
Im not sure what thickness i plan on making the top but nothing to extreme just enough beat on some **** occasionally and do some light welding. Any ideas ?

 

[bad_idea]

i would recommend making it a move able table rather than bolting it to a wall. i am in process of building a weld cart/table myself. you will run into weld projects that just won't fit on the table against the wall. for those projects you can pull the table into the center of the room to let the work piece hang over the sides. it is also convenient to be able to walk around the table when working on a project. i've worked with a bench fixed to the wall and find it limiting. and with a 14x20 garage i can't afford to have the bench in the middle of the floor all the time either. figuring a method to make the table mobile is another can of worms tho...

 

[venturesomerite]

Most of the anchors that you are talking about are rated for 500-3000 lbs each when properly anchored, but I also would suggest putting it on wheels and if you want just pushing it against the wall. You'd be a amazed how nice it is when you need to put some large awkward thing on it one day and you can because it can hand off all sides or something like that. Just get some heavy duty casters, Grainger and the like carry a ton of options. I would maybe consider making the casters bolt on rather than weld one for that one dreaded day one has a problem and you need to get it off, would be alot easier to unbolt some big bolts that break out the grinder. Another thing to consider, is making a leaf that can fold out when you need a bigger surface to work on. You could make it on the backside so when pushed against the wall you won't notice it and you can still store things on the underside if you want.

 

[Garage5.9]

Thanks for the input guys the more i think about it the more i think i will make it on some casters instead of just stationary. I called a local metal depot and for a 4x4 3/8 plate stee was some thing like 425$ Does this sound overly expensive or is this the norm ? granted i am on a island so everything is more exspensive natrually

 

[Jack Olsen]

In the words of George Orwell: "Four legs good; two legs bad."

That said, I personally don't like tables with casters. When you bang on them, they move a little, and it absorbs the energy -- and has to be moved back. But I know I'm pretty much alone in that opinion.

But you don't want to be pounding on a table that's tied horizontally into hollow concrete. Concrete is great in compression, but that's about it. Steel legs are going to be better at transferring energy to the floor.

 

[BFBOB]

scaffold casters. Available used with a little looking, easiest mounting there is-post fits up into your hllow legs. levelers, locks, heavy duty.

 

[JEdA]

I called a local metal depot and for a 4x4 3/8 plate stee was some thing like 425$ Does this sound overly expensive or is this the norm ? granted i am on a island so everything is more exspensive natrually

Seems high to me. I recently bought a 4x8 sheet of 1/4 for $200 after tax. The price seems to scale pretty well do I'd expect $300 for a full sheet of 3/8. I have no idea about how much the island premium would be though.

 

[Garage5.9]

In the words of George Orwell: "Four legs good; two legs bad."

That said, I personally don't like tables with casters. When you bang on them, they move a little, and it absorbs the energy -- and has to be moved back. But I know I'm pretty much alone in that opinion.

But you don't want to be pounding on a table that's tied horizontally into hollow concrete. Concrete is great in compression, but that's about it. Steel legs are going to be better at transferring energy to the floor.

If i were to build it with out casters how would i keep it in place ? Bolt it to the floor ?

scaffold casters. Available used with a little looking, easiest mounting there is-post fits up into your hllow legs. levelers, locks, heavy duty.

Im gonna keep my eye on craigslist for some if not maybe lowes/home depot

Seems high to me. I recently bought a 4x8 sheet of 1/4 for $200 after tax. The price seems to scale pretty well do I'd expect $300 for a full sheet of 3/8. I have no idea about how much the island premium would be though.

Seems like everything here is double or atleast close to it , i know a guy at a scrap yard so hopefully he can hook me up

 

[mike13u]

In my last house, I used a 3"x3"x4' piece of angle iron and mounted this level, at table height, across the back wall for a five foot long table. I then rested the plate on the angle against the wall with two forward legs. It worked great and saved me a few bucks at the time because I found the angle cheap. I placed a few small weld beads under the table to hold the top to the angle. The weight of the plate did most of the holding.
To be honest, that table was as good as any against a wall.
But for this house, I built a free standing table that sits away from the wall. More like a layout or design table would in a shop. After having and useing this, I will never build or suggest to anyone with the room that they have a work/welding table against the wall. Its just two limiting. Being able to move around, clamp, etc all the way around is a real plus. But, not everyone will have room.
Good luck.

 

[bad_idea]

If i were to build it with out casters how would i keep it in place ? Bolt it to the floor ?

mount threaded feet at all four corners. something like these: http://www.mcmaster.com/#swivel-leveling-feet/=ev1ao5 then mount the caster wheels inboard of those to prevent interference. turn the stud to lower the feet and lift the table off of the wheels. back the stud off to lower the table onto the wheels. in the retracted position the feet only need to clear the floor by maybe 1/2" and in the lowered position just enough to lift off the wheels - say 1/2". weld a nut to the top of the stud and make it accessible to a impact driver, cordless drill, etc.

that is what i intend on doing with mine.

 

[csp]

If i were to build it with out casters how would i keep it in place ? Bolt it to the floor ?

Are you afraid it's going to walk off on its own?

With a 4'x4', 3/8" top it's not going anywhere.

 

[Jack Olsen]

Yeah. Unless gravity works differently in Hawaii, it's going to stay stuck to the floor just fine.

Are you imagining casters are going to make it stick?

Joking aside, the weight of a stout welding table will keep it in one place. And if you plan on using a 20# sledge on it, and worry about it 'walking' slowly, you can also attach it to the wall. Just don't rely on a hollow concrete wall attachment for much vertical strength.

 

[87handmedown]

That said, I personally don't like tables with casters. When you bang on them, they move a little, and it absorbs the energy -- and has to be moved back. But I know I'm pretty much alone in that opinion.

Not entirely Jack. We may be the minority on GJ but I'm with you. I am not a fan of casters on any table designed to do medium or heavy work.

 

[Garage5.9]

mount threaded feet at all four corners. something like these: http://www.mcmaster.com/#swivel-leveling-feet/=ev1ao5 then mount the caster wheels inboard of those to prevent interference. turn the stud to lower the feet and lift the table off of the wheels. back the stud off to lower the table onto the wheels. in the retracted position the feet only need to clear the floor by maybe 1/2" and in the lowered position just enough to lift off the wheels - say 1/2". weld a nut to the top of the stud and make it accessible to a impact driver, cordless drill, etc.

that is what i intend on doing with mine.

I really like the idea of using the feet along with the casters. Thanks for the great idea

Are you afraid it's going to walk off on its own?

With a 4'x4', 3/8" top it's not going anywhere.

Nah not afraid of it going anywhere but i was thinking if i beat on it it might tend to walk

Yeah. Unless gravity works differently in Hawaii, it's going to stay stuck to the floor just fine.

Are you imagining casters are going to make it stick?

Joking aside, the weight of a stout welding table will keep it in one place. And if you plan on using a 20# sledge on it, and worry about it 'walking' slowly, you can also attach it to the wall. Just don't rely on a hollow concrete wall attachment for much vertical strength.

Actually gravity is different here in paradise hahaa. Any guess to what a 4x4 of 3/8's would weigh ?

Not entirely Jack. We may be the minority on GJ but I'm with you. I am not a fan of casters on any table designed to do medium or heavy work.

 

[bad_idea]

gravity is different in my garage! 14x20 garage with 6" of slope front to back. stuff rolls around...

 

[Jack Olsen]

Any guess to what a 4x4 of 3/8's would weigh ?

245 pounds.

 

[dmevis]

My welding bench/cart is thus:
I build it myself from 2" square tubing; weighs about 400 pounds. It is mounted on castors, and closed on 3 sides/top/bottom.
All of my welding equipment, Oxy-Acetalyn, MIG, TIG, etc. is located in the cart and can roll anywhere in my garage or driveway.
I put 1/4" steel on the top of the cart. I also put a pre-fab welding station on the top of the cart. The welding station has 12" high steel side curtains on 3 sides, and features an expanded metal bottom that has a 3" area below to catch the sparks and slag. I find this arrangement MUCH better than trying to weld on a flat plate.

 

[Garage5.9]

245 pounds.

Thanks Jack

My welding bench/cart is thus:
I build it myself from 2" square tubing; weighs about 400 pounds. It is mounted on castors, and closed on 3 sides/top/bottom.
All of my welding equipment, Oxy-Acetalyn, MIG, TIG, etc. is located in the cart and can roll anywhere in my garage or driveway.
I put 1/4" steel on the top of the cart. I also put a pre-fab welding station on the top of the cart. The welding station has 12" high steel side curtains on 3 sides, and features an expanded metal bottom that has a 3" area below to catch the sparks and slag. I find this arrangement MUCH better than trying to weld on a flat plate.

sounds nice , care to post up some pics ?

 

[Jamesbbh]

In the words of George Orwell: "Four legs good; two legs bad."

That said, I personally don't like tables with casters. When you bang on them, they move a little, and it absorbs the energy -- and has to be moved back. But I know I'm pretty much alone in that opinion.

But you don't want to be pounding on a table that's tied horizontally into hollow concrete. Concrete is great in compression, but that's about it. Steel legs are going to be better at transferring energy to the floor.

Nope you're not the only one! I went to good ole harbor freight and got two 2,000lb trailer tongue jacks to lower down and made handles opposite to move this beast around. The top is 1/2" and the frame is 3/16" angle. The only thing I really paid for was the plate (used off of C/L) $150, and the Jacks ($30 each).
Table- Free from neighbor
Steel for plasma cutting grate- scrap left over
shelf steel- scrap
Vise- $15

 

[Brad54]

In the words of George Orwell: "Four legs good; two legs bad."

That said, I personally don't like tables with casters. When you bang on them, they move a little, and it absorbs the energy -- and has to be moved back. But I know I'm pretty much alone in that opinion.

But you don't want to be pounding on a table that's tied horizontally into hollow concrete. Concrete is great in compression, but that's about it. Steel legs are going to be better at transferring energy to the floor.

I agree with you completely. I just built a 3x5 welding table, with industrial machine leveling feet (4-inch rubber pads with 3/4-inch threaded rods to adjust it). The feet will protect the floor while beating on the table, levels it, and it's
It is HEAVY.

To the OP: If you've got the room, put the table away from the wall and leave it there. Build your shop around this table, rather than fitting the table into your shop.

Mine is 3x5, due to the piece of 1/2-inch plate I found at the scrap yard. I wouldn't make it any wider than 3 feet, and no smaller than 5 feet... six would have been better.

For the frame, I used 2x3 c-channel. The down-standing legs are 2x3 box tubing, 3/16-wall.
A 2x4 piece of 1/4-wall tubing runs along the bottom of the legs (front-to-back on the table), and the feet go into that piece.
A piece of c-channel runs side-to-side connecting those feet.

It weighs about 700 pounds... which was REALLY nice when I threw a Ford 9-inch rear on it and it didn't move, and when I had a Corvair engine on it the other day and needed to lift one end of the engine to set a block of wood under it--I climbed up onto the table with the engine to lift and move the block... the table never even knew I was there. It was like climbing up onto a concrete slab.

Anyway, look at employing C-channel for your construction: it's strong, sturdy, and easy to work with.
-Brad

 

[reznunt]

Any guess to what a 4x4 of 3/8's would weigh ?

245 pounds.

http://www.portlandbolt.com/steel-plate-weight.html

teach him to fish.

 

[A**holes Garage]

360 degree casters, with leveling pads which level the table and prevent the table from moving.

http://www.woodcraft.com/PRODUCT/20...ode=10INGOPB&gclid=COef24vkvqwCFQoaQgod4kq-JA

 

[brucer]

something like this would work and be inexpensive.
good sized carriage bolt faced flat in a lathe..

$4.50 for the 3" cast iron/molded rubber caster (275lbs each), like $4 for four 3" long 1/2-13 carriage bolts and eight 1/2-13 nuts.

 

[Jagmandave]

Why are you building it so heavy for "a little light welding"?

I put 6" wheels on one end and rubber feet on the other. It doesn't move around and when I want to roll it all I have to do is lift the other end and roll it around. Works a treat and I've built some pretty heavy duty stuff on it. I put the vise on the wheeled end in case I need to hit something....

I made this years ago when I was just learning how to weld, so don't be too hard on me. Plus I just finished doing a bunch of work today and haven't finished putting away the clutter - try to ignore it.....

I follow Colin Chapman's theory....."add lightness"

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[OccupantRJ]

Not entirely Jack. We may be the minority on GJ but I'm with you. I am not a fan of casters on any table designed to do medium or heavy work.

I have both. One table is 4 X 8 with 1/2" top, no casters, and the other is 3 X 3 with 1/4" top and casters. The mobile one is handy to roll outside on pleasant days. The heavy pounding is done on the stationary table.

 

[bad_idea]

something like this would work and be inexpensive.
good sized carriage bolt faced flat in a lathe..

$4.50 for the 3" cast iron/molded rubber caster (275lbs each), like $4 for four 3" long 1/2-13 carriage bolts and eight 1/2-13 nuts.

this is almost exactly what i plan on doing with my bench. only thing i plan on changing is using a machine foot that won't scratch the floor when lifting/leveling the table.

 

[padronanniversary]

I like the plasma cutting great integrated into it. Curious, why wood under it to catch all the hot melted metal and slag ?

Nope you're not the only one! I went to good ole harbor freight and got two 2,000lb trailer tongue jacks to lower down and made handles opposite to move this beast around. The top is 1/2" and the frame is 3/16" angle. The only thing I really paid for was the plate (used off of C/L) $150, and the Jacks ($30 each).
Table- Free from neighbor
Steel for plasma cutting grate- scrap left over
shelf steel- scrap
Vise- $15