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Welding & epoxy floor ???

duggie

Well-known member
Joined
Apr 24, 2007
Messages
100
Location
Sarnia, Ontario, Canada
I have been reading most of the threads about the expoxy floors and occasionally welding gets mentioned.

I am about to embark on the "epoxy floor experience" of my garage at my new house and want to know what effect welding will have on it. I plan on using the Rustoleum epoxy (either waterbased or Professional .. if I can find it!!).

So ... please tell me the pros/cons of using the epoxy and welding. I don't want to go throught the exercise if I am going to damage the floor.

p.s. - I don't have a dedicated welding / grinding area of the garage as I am working on a truck and a drag racing van.
 
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PAToyota

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Joined
Jan 20, 2006
Messages
4,366
Location
South Central Pennsylvania, USA
I would not use epoxy again due to the fact that I do weld. Leaves little brown burn marks everywhere. You could lay down welding blankets and such to protect it, but for a "working" floor I would never use epoxy again...
 
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PAToyota

Well-known member
Joined
Jan 20, 2006
Messages
4,366
Location
South Central Pennsylvania, USA
Having gone the epoxy route and seen the mess it turns into (at least for the use I have), I'd likely seal it with a penetrating oil finish and leave it at that - tung oil, boiled linseed oil, or such. Basically, what I need is something that seals the concrete dust, allows basic cleanup, and looks passably decent. A number of the garages in here look great with the tiles or epoxy. But for the work that I do out there none of those are going to hold up.

For now, I'm living with it as removing it would be a helluva PITA...
 

Steve in Mi

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Joined
Mar 13, 2007
Messages
1,042
Location
Mid Michigan
Yes to brown burn marks on the epoxy.

From a posting I made elsewhere;

Quote:
If what you are looking for is a sealer to keep dust to a minimum, easier to sweep and being able to wipe up spills (ie;prevent them from soaking into the concrete) then, I'll suggest this product that I have had under test for about 6 years now and am pleased with it. It was available in colors (red, white, gray and maybe others - these are the ones I remember) but I decided to go with the clear.
Quote:

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v19/ceethese/Posted%20photos/ConcreteSealer.jpg

A fellow responded;
Quote:
I'd like to hear your views on the Thompson product. My previous shop had a three coats of epoxy paint on the floor. I really liked it, but I wasn't happy with the brown burned spots from welding. The nice light silver/gray color would turn brown.


My reply;
Quote:
Well one view is;

Quote:am pleased with it
The whys include these factors;

Easy to apply I applied it with rag so I could avoid any puddles a roller might leave. Goes on a milky white and dries clear.

No odor I applied it in a 12 X 14 room with no added ventilation and experienced only a slight hint of odor from the acrylic latex. Label says ventilate.

Good coverage The first application does leach into the concrete (400 sq. ft. coverage per gallon) but a second application doesn't take nearly as much material. I think the second application is necessary to seal completely. You will see some gloss on the floor after the second coat. I put a third coat down and I think most of it is laying on top and did result in some real gloss. I'm not sure any further seal was accomplished by this third application. I was interested to see what the third coat would do but as I use this product again - two coats will be enough. I have much more to put down in my shop when I can see the floor again, I'm sure it will have to be done a section at a time. My saw cuts in the floor are on a 12' X 14' grid so I will be trying to clear that size spot as I do the rest piecemeal. ~ 2/3 gallon per square. I sealed the floor in the lathe and mill room (another 12 X 14 area) in 99' prior to moving the machines in with Thompson Masonry Sealer (a petroleum based product). It was a slightly darker finish, okay but no real gloss to it.

Fast drying I was walking on it within an hour or two and it was dry. I waited the 24 hours it recommends between coats.

Prep I didn't follow the directions on the preparation. My shop floor was poured in 1981 but as I've said elsewhere the shop was used as a storage building until 1999. I have kept it clean putting down poly, cardboard or heavy pattern paper whenever I expected a mess. I did vacuum, washed it (bucket and rag) and buffed up some tire marks with Scotch-Brite® pads prior to sealing.

Price I have no idea what regular price is for this stuff. I got such a deal on it I bought 35 gallons thinking I might also use it on my plywood second floor too. I wish I knew how it would hold up on the softer substrate. I did a test piece and it looks okay and definitely does seal the wood but I'm not sure how it will do with heavy lumber racks rolled over it - will it fracture as the wood gives and become a NEW dust problem?

BTW, the label says it won't hold up to brake fluid or antifreeze on prolonged exposure.

As for hot slag from welding I don't know about the Garage Floor Protector I'm still doing most welding outside or in my other garage (no floor sealer there) I did do some stick welding in the lathe and mill room with the Thompson Masonry Sealer (petroleum base) and saw no problem.

 
OP
D

duggie

Well-known member
Joined
Apr 24, 2007
Messages
100
Location
Sarnia, Ontario, Canada
Thanks for the responses folks ... greatly appreciated !!!

After some deep intense thought (yes ... it did hurt to think !!) I have decided to just paint the floor instead of using the expoxy finish.

I use the floor alot for rolling cabinets, welding, grinding, lawnmower storage, working on vehicles, etc. and do not park any vehicles in the garage (*shudders at the thought of parking a vehicle in the garage*). So I plan on painting the floor and adding a new coat of paint every year or two to freshen up the exposed areas (Another item added to the "spring cleaning" list).

Maybe I will look at something more permanent down the road ....

Thanks again for the comments.
 
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