Welding Guidance...I Need Some

[Gore]

I borrowed a buddy's Lincoln sp-175t this weekend and have been playing around on some scrap 1/8" steel. I have read that people claim to be able to weld 1/4" with this welder but according to the chart I have to basically max it out to weld even 1/8".

Do any of you guys have this welder and have welded similar size stock?

I have been playing with the settings and it seems to like E, and a speed of 7. I am using .030 and gas (75/25).

What settings are you having luck with?

 

[Gore]

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This is a 90 corner

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[toomanytoyzz]

An SP 175T should burn through 1/8" steel if you had the heat setting on high. I owned an older SP 170T for years and welded plenty of 1/4". Are you sure you have it plugged into a 50A outlet?

E was the limit with my 170T. It would tear through 1/8" on high like a hot knife through warm butter. I'm guessing it's a voltage problem with the outlet or the welder. hose welds definitely look cold.

 

[Gore]

30A, but I read that was sufficient.

 

[stapler]

I think you may be able to get to 3/16 in one pass, but 1/4 is pushing it for my 175 +. Perhaps they were talking about running it with flux core instead of solid wire and gas.

 

[toomanytoyzz]

30A, but I read that was sufficient.

Plug it into a 50A outlet and post up your 1/8" welds on E. They will should have some holes in the bead.

 

[vhol5]

Plug it into a 50A outlet and post up your 1/8" welds on E. They will should have some holes in the bead.

The welder will only pull the max amps that it needs for a certain setting. If it's pedal to the metal and the 30 amp wasn't sufficient, it would've tripped the breaker...

 

[vhol5]

I think you may be able to get to 3/16 in one pass, but 1/4 is pushing it for my 175 +. Perhaps they were talking about running it with flux core instead of solid wire and gas.

This

 

[Gore]

Thanks for the responses.

Just to clarify, 30A is sufficient for running wide open on E, and I know this due to the fact that machine ran on E without tripping the breaker?

How would you say the welds look? Are my results typical for someone running a 175 on E/7, with .030 and gas, on 1/8"? (On the inside of the machine it asks for E/7.5 for 1/8")

I am just learning to weld so any specific pointers would be greatly appreciated.

 

[Gore]

Bump...threads disappear fast around here, lol.

 

[sberry]

How any taps on this machine? Mine is a 5 speed. D 5.5 on the speed with 030 is about as good as it gets, get up on E and the arc is eratic. It will weld some 1/4 joints. This is dirty plate, 3/16 or 1/4. Can make it hot enough it doesnt ripple.

 

[Gore]

The machine has speeds 1-10, and A-E on the voltage side.

 

[ctb]

The welds look pretty good for a beginner. Show some pics of the underside of the welds. Was the steel butted together?

 

[Gore]

The welds look pretty good for a beginner. Show some pics of the underside of the welds. Was the steel butted together?

Thank you first of all, I don't have the eye for seeing what is wrong or right with a weld outside of the obvious. So when people say that's too fast or too hot, I need to know what about the weld gives that clue.

The first and last welds were just running beads on top of the 1/8' sheet. What looks like two pieces butted up to each other was actually just me cutting a shallow groove and filling it in. The middle weld is a corner weld.

As far as the other side of the weld, when I am just running a bead on top of the sheet I can see the shape of the weld from the bottom, but there isn't anything actually coming through (not that I know if there should be).

 

[ctb]

Running a bead over top of some steel doesn't really show anything other than to prove the welder works. **** up two pieces of your 1/8', clean the surface well down to shiny steel, then weld. Flip the steel over and you should see the weld has penetrated the full thickness of the steel. If it hasn't your welder has got problems.

 

[Gore]

Ok, I will cut a piece off of the sheet and weld it back together. Then I can see how I did.

 

[sberry]

D 5.5 with 030, this has a 5 speed, 3 basic settings with it. B 2.5 for thin, medium is C 3.5 and D 5.5 for thick. It is a very good welder. I like the T version the best. Even on thin metal tend to be set for a thickness higher than the door charts. You can weld some 16 ga wide open with it, anywhere above 1/8 its generally wide open if the fit is right.

 

[sberry]

D 5.5 with 030, this has a 5 speed, 3 basic settings with it. B 2.5 for thin, medium is C 3.5 and D 5.5 for thick. It is a very good welder. I like the T version the best. Even on thin metal tend to be set for a thickness higher than the door charts. You can weld some 16 ga wide open with it, anywhere above 1/8 its generally wide open if the fit is right.

 

[Gore]

Here is my attempt at butting two pieces together

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[Rezeppa]

It looks to me like you are pulling your torch. I would attempt to push the torch and go a little slower. The bead will lay down more and if you go slower it will compensate and penetrate deeper. Idk I would have to be there to set it up to work?

 

[Gore]

Ok, I am pulling the torch so I can try pushing instead. I do feel like I went pretty slow though, but I can guess I can always try going even slower.

Do you think going to .035 would change much? Or should I get better with .030 beforehand?

 

[ctb]

Lack of penetration for sure. I don't have your particular welder but some general tips. Turn up the wire speed to get some more heat into the weld, weld straight along the joint without weaving off to the sides, slow down some. By rights your lincoln should be able to weld 1/8" no problem. Try leaving a 1/16" gap between the pieces you're welding. That will give you more penetration also.

 

[78Bird]

sure looks like its down on power...

if it was even near right, with a 175 turned all the way up getting penetration shouldnt be a problem. It should want to burn through.

if you know anyone with some expierience, or better with another 175, id try to compare.

 

[Gore]

Ok, I can try all of that stuff. I have been trying to watch as many vids as possible to gauge the speed I should working at.

 

[Gore]

sure looks like its down on power...

if it was even near right, with a 175 turned all the way up getting penetration shouldnt be a problem. It should want to burn through.

if you know anyone with some expierience, or better with another 175, id try to compare.

Might be a good idea. I'll try going REALLY slow next time to see if I can even burn through it on purpose. If not, I will probably start looking around for another welder.

 

[pipsters]

Greg I have a 180 amp welder. Am using it on 120v plug right now, but according to the charts it should do 1/4" on 120v. I am maxing it out on 1/8" and not a chance of burn through. I did weld some thinner stuff, roughly 16 gauge, and had no problems going through on that. So I think it might be a limitation to these 180-ish MIGs. I am considering buying a 210 amp machine and selling this one.

 

[toomanytoyzz]

I owned the older brother to this unit and it would definitely burn through 1/8" steel at full heat. I actually never used the "E" setting even on thicker stuff. It's sweet spot was at "D". I still think it's either the unit itself or an amperage issue with the outlet.

I think you may be able to get to 3/16 in one pass, but 1/4 is pushing it for my 175 +. Perhaps they were talking about running it with flux core instead of solid wire and gas.

Remeber that you have to bevel any material 1/4" or thicker no matter what machine you use. This should be considered Gospel for a smaller low amperage unit.

 

[NRDave]

Leave the machine heat setting on "e". Turn DOWN your wire speed. Not up as previously stated. Should sound like crackling bacon. Trick is hold the welder on a peice of scrap and adjust your wire speed knob till you get the correct sound. If your trying to weld a part for reason then try and preheat the material with torch or so. That machine should weld 1/4" all day. I have a smaller Lincoln that only goes to "d" and I can do 1/4" no prob with a little preheat.

 

[sberry]

Same machine, same wire, same gas.

 

[NRDave]

Good penatration sir.

 

[sberry]

Here was one some one did in a class I gave. Again the Lincoln.

 

[sberry]

Here is one I did, the front and on the back I left a little boog so you could see the gap that was started with. Welded from one side.

 

[Gore]

I really appreciate all of the input, keep it coming.

I haven't been able to practice for the past few days but I definitely will this weekend. I'll be sure to try all of your suggestions when I do.

 

[Gore]

Just out of curiosity...does anyone happen to have a video of someone welding 1/8" with one of these welders? It would help me gauge my speed. If not, perhaps someone can estimate a "count/inch."

 

[NRDave]

Like I said hold the stinger on a scrap peice with the heat setting on high and pull the trigger and adjust the wire speed until you get the "bacon" sound.

 

[sberry]

Lets assume I did the one in the 4 shot sequence above. As we see the first tack really didnt melt all the way thru, the second did and the welder started bead over first tack insuring melt thru at start then realizing he better get it together and get consistant to get thru the joint with as least excess as possible.

When doing thick pieces with an underpowered machine often tight fits etc are not that important, leave a big ole gap and melt it together with filler. Vertical up in many cases for structural work. There is no doubt about fusion. This is done with little 170 class machine.

 

[Gore]

Like I said hold the stinger on a scrap peice with the heat setting on high and pull the trigger and adjust the wire speed until you get the "bacon" sound.

My bad, I should have been more clear. I was referring to my hand travel speed across the piece I am welding, not wire speed on the machine.

 

[NRDave]

My bad, I should have been more clear. I was referring to my hand travel speed across the piece I am welding, not wire speed on the machine.

Correct. But if you adjust the machine then you will be able to adjust your hand speed by the sound of the machine as weld. You'll find that sweet spot.

 

[Steroblan]

Check out this website. A wealth of knowledge here. This latest video shows hot and cold mig beads.

http://www.weldingtipsandtricks.com/mig-like-tig.html

 

[sberry]

I dont watch him, my connection is too slow but he is good, the best from the couple I saw.