Welding Helmet Lens

[Crazy68Dart]

What are you guys using for a welding helmet lens? I have an auto-darkening, and I am having trouble seeing the work piece and the weld suffers accordingly. I am going to try a work light around the job to see if the more ambient light helps.

What is safe as far as lens number without hurting your eyes?

I am mid 30s, and eyesight is not an issue (up close). I use two hands if at all possible, one to trigger, one to steady. Get as close that I can to the job so that the puddle can be seen, etc.

Using MIG, both thin wire .023 in the 110 unit I think and .030 (might be .035 I've not used it in a while) in the 220 unit. Gas is 80/20 mix.

Thanks.

 

[GIJoe4500]

I use an AutoArc auto darkening from Tractor Supply Co. Was roughly $100 new. Can get them for around $60 when on sale. I haven't had any problems seeing with it.

 

[t100]

list of mine, price from low to high,

Lincoln Viking 3350,

Miller Elite,

Speedglas 9100XX.

the size of viewing window matters. among mine, Lincoln has the biggest, Speedglas has better, more comfortable head gear.

 

[AlexNGreen]

I have used Hobart hobby type AD helmets, Miller Digital Elites, Esab helmets, and a slew of imports from the LWS. The best bang for the buck that I just found is the budget low end SpeedGlas from ebay. It was $125 shipped and the optical clarity was astounding. Definitely sold on SpeedGlas from here on out.

 

[innealtoir]

I like the Miller line of hoods, they are cut similar to a Huntsman and have pretty good image quality. (Not as great as a gold glass lens, but much better than a plastic gold lens.) They are light weight and fairly rugged.

http://www.millerwelds.com/products/welding_protection/head_face/helmets/digital-elite/

Cheap brand hoods (e.g. HF), imho, aren't worth the money wasted on them.

The lower cost Miller's I've used are good as well. If you really want to stay low cost a Hunstman fixed shade hood with a #10 gold lens would be a good option.

 

[zkling]

I personally prefer the cheap ~$40 jackson fixed shade helmets, with a large #10 lens. The view is much different through a glass lens than a AD helmet. It is much..... "warmer" I would say. It doesn't have that greenish tint most AD helmets have.

I do have an older miller Auto Dark helmet. Have it only because I won it in a raffle of sorts. It is nice, but the small window is kinda limiting. IMHO. However it is nice for mig where I will tack here, tack there, etc. Technically all good, approved auto dark helments will block 100% of UV even when not in darkening mode. It will feel like you looked into a camer flash, but no real harm will be done.

You can try bumping down to a #9 or even an #8, but I definitely wouldn't go any lower than that for what you are doing. To me it sounds like you lack ambient lighting. If money was no object, those big window, miller digital elites are very nice, but $$$$

 

[theknurl]

I have 4 Huntsman TIG helmets with gold lenses and magnifiers
7,8,9&10 magnifiers from 2-3
don't use the #7 very often but with 0.040 tungsten way down low

no AD helmets in my life, like I need more electronics

there is a full stick helmet around here somewhere

 

[crewchief888]

my most used hoods are miller pro-hobby adjustable AD

for lighter mig work, i typically have them set to 9- 9 1/2

another flip lense hood with a gold 10 shade & 2x magnifier

old jackson big J with a gold 12 shade for higher amp work

 

[weldor48]

switched to an auto darking lens as soon as they were available. Cost 125. bucks then just for the lens.The better you can see the weld, the better you will weld. Use the lowest value darkness you find comfortable, and keep a clean coverplate. I prefer glass,and change often.

 

[Rogue1987]

Fixed glass gold #10
Miller Titanium 9400i

 

[Ign]

my most used hoods are miller pro-hobby adjustable AD

for lighter mig work, i typically have them set to 9- 9 1/2

another flip lense hood with a gold 10 shade & 2x magnifier

old jackson big J with a gold 12 shade for higher amp work

I also prefer a shade 9 for most "shadetree" MIG work. BUT everyone's eyes are different. It won't be too hard to figure out if the shade is too light for you, just be aware of how your eyes feel and perform after welding and thru the night. You're unlikely to do any permanent damage with a "shadetree" amount of welding for ONE day if your lens is one setting too light.

 

[Ign]

switched to an auto darking lens as soon as they were available. Cost 125. bucks then just for the lens.The better you can see the weld, the better you will weld. Use the lowest value darkness you find comfortable, and keep a clean coverplate. I prefer glass,and change often.

This too. I buy the coverplates in bulk and change often. Miller's got you over a barrel here with their non-rectangular design.

 

[innealtoir]

This too. I buy the coverplates in bulk and change often. Miller's got you over a barrel here with their non-rectangular design.

They are only like two bucks a piece. How cheap should they be?

 

[Crazy68Dart]

Thanks for the reply guys. Mine does not have a large view, it is rectangular. I cannot remember where I got it, but it was not that expensive, i.e. under 100 dollars and that was some years ago.

The magnifier is interesting. Is that useful for everyone or only those who would typically wear a bifocal or similar glasses?

I think I need a beginners course in welding lenses and all of the options, color, glass versus non, etc.

I have a feeling I have a combination of problems, cheap helmet, not a large view, not sure what the shade is, but seems dark to me.

I can't imagine ambient light matters much? Welding puts off a little light!

 

[innealtoir]

Usually a magnifier aka cheater lens is used by someone as they get older (though sometimes when they are younger) and their vision starts to get a little worse.

What type of hood do you have? Even inexpensive hoods can have variable settings for shade on auto-darkeners, though some do not. You may have a one shade hood? One of the advantages of the more expensive auto-darkeners is you can control the sensitivity, the shade, and other settings to fit the user.

Post up the model of your hood maybe you just need to adjust some settings.

 

[R.Anderson]

Welded with fixed shade hoods for years till I used auto darkening to see what they were like and after that it has been auto darkening since.

I use a Miller Elite and a HF blue flame hood, shade 9-11 depends on what I'm welding and process.

I find myself using the HF hood more and more now than my Miller Elite, Bought it as a backup but the light weight and fit makes it more comfortable to wear. Best part is the price I paid around 40 bucks for it with coupon maybe less. The smaller viewing area doesn't bother me one bit you only need to see a small area to weld, but wish they didn't put on the cheesy blue flame stickers on it.

 

[Tinner]

I use the Huntsman AutoView 1105VXL.

Pros:
Fits any hood with a 4X5 opening.
Uses 2 AAA batteries, last me 6-8 months welding 2-4 hrs/day.
Nice big window.
Clear state shade 3.
Trips at less than 5 amps if the sensors are clean.
Uses standard cover plates. Inside one is an outer split in half.
Durable. I've dropped mine countless times from bench high to 20 feet.
Sensitivity and delay adjustments are excellent.

Cons:
You have to turn it on manually. Unused, stays on 15-20 min and auto shuts off.
Battery door is flimsy, causing batteries to loose contact. A stiffener glued to the door or a thin plastic shim over the batteries solves this.

I've had mine over 5 years and love it.

http://www.amazon.com/dp/B002BUJ1KM/ref=asc_df_B002BUJ1KM2692564?smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER&tag=dealt411857-20&linkCode=asn&creative=395093&creativeASIN=B002BUJ1KM

 

[zkling]

I can't imagine ambient light matters much? Welding puts off a little light!

This is an incorrect assumption that alot of new weldors have. Can't figure out why they can't see, and are welding in a dim lit garage. Try adding more ambient light to your work space. Post a picture of the helmet, machine, even welds produced and we can help you on where to go and what to do.

 

[Ign]

This is an incorrect assumption that alot of new weldors have. Can't figure out why they can't see, and are welding in a dim lit garage. Try adding more ambient light to your work space. Post a picture of the helmet, machine, even welds produced and we can help you on where to go and what to do.

Agreed! All lighting matters, that's why they make MIG gun lights for up under dark spaces.

 

[Crazy68Dart]

Thanks guys! This all came up when I was doing some welding on a pair of mufflers for the Dart on Friday. It has been 3-4 years since I have done any serious welding and I wondered why I was having so much trouble. Maybe my eyes have changed some. I do know that when I was welding on the Dart I had a 300w halogen lamp (the outdoor "flood" variety) as a work light so very bright (and hot!). I like a lot of light.

I don't have the stuff in front of me, it is at my other garage. I was thinking about it and I think the hood is a HF variety. I remember wanting to try an AD hood and thought I would give it a shot. It only has adjustment for the speed of the darkening if I remember correctly.

I have a 110 Craftsman MIG which my wife bought be as a birthday present years ago which I use for lighter work. It is not a high end machine, but it works really well (and it is the thought that counts). Also have a Lincoln 220v 175 that is used for heavier stuff.

 

[NUTTSGT]

I currently have a Hobart helmet that came with the welder. It's adjustable from 9-13 (I think). I'd like to buy a Miller that goes down to 8 but It's not in the cards right now.

 

[shawnspeed]

Fixed glass gold #10
Miller Titanium 9400i

What he said.....I had the 9400 and didn't care for the auto dark....simple kind of guy, I just stick with the large window fixed glass gold #10...batteries have never gone dead in 25 years... .Shawn

 

[taumac]

i had a HF AD one that broke and went back to a fixed len. I have Jackson with a Hobart 10 gold and really like it. Plan on getting anotherone for my other Jackson with the larger view. The one that is in is too dark.

 

[taumac]

just for giggles I pulled my helmets down and pulled lens..... these are both 10 shades but the gold I can see soooo much better even though its smaller. I think got lens at TSC for $6.00 few years back.

 

[Crazy68Dart]

So the consensus seems to be that the gold lens is preferred over green?

 

[crewchief888]

So the consensus seems to be that the gold lens is preferred over green?

for certain welds, in certain light, i liked the gold lense.

i use a AD hood now most of the time.
as long as i keep my coverplates clean/changed i can see fine.

i dont weld for hours every day like i did in the past, and back then i'd never even heard of an AD lense.

 

[tcianci]

My AD is a Fourney and it goes from 9-13. A MIG light is a handy tool. You don't have to look too hard to notice how similar the free HF 9 LED flashlight is to a proper MIG light. I'm going to try that next. What I typically use is a fixed lens #8 shade with a cheater in an old helmet for MIG work. If the free MIG light works, I may be able to go back to the AD for MIG work

 

[zkling]

So the consensus seems to be that the gold lens is preferred over green?

Kinda , if you are comfortable with a fixed shade lens, try out the basic jackson ~$40, the lens it comes with it pretty good IMHO. Good color and very wide visibility. Then you can always add a gold lens down the road (~$8). One thing with the gold lenses is that you have to be careful with them. If they get scratched they will let the light through. They also reflect alot of light back at the weld which is nice. It is very much a personal preference and how one perceives the color of the arc.

Make sure you get one with the upgraded head gear, kinda heavy, but much lighter than most AD helmets
http://store.cyberweld.com/jahswehe1.html#pdItemDataTabs

If you're feeling fancy, this is a very light weight helmet, but more $$$
http://store.cyberweld.com/jawehecafipa.html

 

[zkling]

Fixed glass gold #10
Miller Titanium 9400i

How do you like your Titanium? I thought about getting one on clearance a few years back, but it seemed pretty heavy for a fixed shade helmet.

 

[justanengineer]

My "go-to" hood is an old small window Lincoln fixed shade, usually #9 unless Im doing really heavy structural welding, then its #10. I prefer small window to big window (mainly) bc its about as light of a helmet as you can get, small replacement shades are dirt cheap, and since I can turn my head and the shape of the hood fits my face well (and close) there isnt a need for a big window, its just like wearing sunglasses. One of the problems I noticed when she took welding class that I believe is common is that many folks' hoods dont really fit their face and it puts the lens a mile from their eyes. Ive also got a few autodarks, but when Im feeling froggy I normally just grab her Hobart since its always hanging by mine and fits me decently enough.

Just my $0.02, but Id disagree with some of the opinions in this thread. Cheaters arent a replacement for good/corrected eyesight IMO. Unless youre welding tiny TIG welds, you should see a doc before using one. Ambient light is the same way. If you feel the need for it you should consult an eye doc. Both the plant I work in as well as many shops I visit have rather low yellow ambient light, theyre intentionally rather "gloomy" to allow task/spot/work lamp lighting to be adjusted per the individual fabricator's needs and prevent glare - you can always get brighter, but not always darker. I find in these shops that machinists tend to love light, weldors could care less. Personally, Im in the "could care less" group.

 

[pepi]

Could you be getting light in from the back of the helmet? That will make it hard to see the puddle. Have good lighting in my humble shop, found I needed to add a curtain to the back of the helmet to keep the reflection out. Keeps the view thru the lens better, and brighter, helmet 3M speedglass.

 

[theknurl]

Just my $0.02, but Id disagree with some of the opinions in this thread. Cheaters arent a replacement for good/corrected eyesight IMO. Unless youre welding tiny TIG welds, you should see a doc before using one. Ambient light is the same way. If you feel the need for it you should consult an eye doc. Both the plant I work in as well as many shops I visit have rather low yellow ambient light, theyre intentionally rather "gloomy" to allow task/spot/work lamp lighting to be adjusted per the individual fabricator's needs and prevent glare - you can always get brighter, but not always darker.

there is an OSHA spec for work place light levels. if its dim yellowish light they are just cheap and stupid

see an eye doctor to use cheaters???? really?
i still can read the bottom line on the eye chart, barely my eyes just won't focus up close anymore

i have macular degeneration, so dim isn't good and I'm working on mirror image astigmatism that shows up when its dark too


been welding for 58 years and yes i weld tiny things too

my preferred Huntsman 711P helmets weigh 1 lb 1 oz complete with 3 sheepskins

 

[Crazy68Dart]

I'll need to fiddle around some more. First thing is to get the equipment local. It is at the other garage, and inconvenient. So I don't "play" as much as I would like working on skill, etc. I probably have a combination of issues.

Part of the reason I am on this site, want to build a detached garage/shop soon for my car hobby. I'm out of space with the 24x32 attached three car and don't want to start making a big mess in there with the family using it constantly, dragging stuff in the house, little ones, etc.

 

[innealtoir]

Depending on how much time you have behind the hood you may find that you feel the image is too dark because you are not use to it. A lot of times when someone starts out welding they have the tendency to want to use a lighter shade to see better when it is more a case of become accustomed to the appropriate shade for the amperage / process you are using. Not saying this is the case, but it is possible.

There are a lot of charts out there from Miller, Huntsman, Lincoln, etc which give recommended shade levels based on amperage and process. That would be a pretty good starting point. Realize that while you can go lighter or darker, going lighter when you should not be doing so will increase eye fatigue. Ambient lighting is important, but remember a lot of guys are humped up in a stack of boiler tubes, runs of steam lines, or the bottom of pulp vats and they make the best of the situation. You learn to adapt to the lighting levels and the positions you are put in, while trying to make it as comfortable as possible. If conditions had to always be perfect we'd all be shop welders and wouldn't that be boring!

Good luck with getting the new shop underway!

 

[BDAZSVT]

Like innealtoir said a cheater or Diopter really helped me see the puddle.
http://www.welders-direct.com/mm5/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Product_Code=LNS-MXXXX

 

[03protege]

I have the Titanium 9400i auto dark and love it except for one big flaw. I cannot get the damn thing to stay in the "up" position. As soon as my head tilts at a downward angle below horizontal the damn thing comes crashing forward. I read a review stating it is a factory flaw and miller swapped their helmet out so I am going to give them a call and see if they can resolve it.

Also I bought mine from Zoro with the 40% coupon.

 

[superspec]

I have the Titanium 9400i auto dark and love it except for one big flaw. I cannot get the damn thing to stay in the "up" position. As soon as my head tilts at a downward angle below horizontal the damn thing comes crashing forward. I read a review stating it is a factory flaw and miller swapped their helmet out so I am going to give them a call and see if they can resolve it.

Also I bought mine from Zoro with the 40% coupon.

my digital elite does the same thing.

i run mine on 11 for tacks and 12 finish welding.

 

[Graham08]

Where are you guys finding actual glass gold filter lenses? I have a few polycarbonate ones, but have not been able to find them in glass.

 

[zkling]

Where are you guys finding actual glass gold filter lenses? I have a few polycarbonate ones, but have not been able to find them in glass.

Call your LWS and see if they carry them or have to order them and the $ it will cost. IIRC I picked mine up at tractor supply, they carry a pretty good selection of lenses and they are pretty cheap too. Of course there is always the online route, but in my experience the shipping charge negates the initial cost savings.

Try TSC, Lowes and HD both carry glass lenses, just not sure if they carry the gold ones. What size are you looking for?

 

[kald]

Where are you guys finding actual glass gold filter lenses? I have a few polycarbonate ones, but have not been able to find them in glass.

I got mine from TSC.