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Welding help!

nick.koehler6

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Hi everyone I am fairly new to welding, I can lay down a DECENT bead. Nothing like most people can do. I was wondering what your technique is. When I weld I use Flux-core so I generally move up, Doing half moons. My welds hold, But they are not pretty. My welder has a hook-up for Argon But I heard it's expensive. If you have any tips, Please list them!

Thanks, Nick
 
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Zeke

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Go to weldingtipsandtricks.com

That said, argon is not for MIG or flux core unless you're doing something special. On WTAT.com you will see Jody using a paint ball canister full of CO2 and MIG (not flux core). This is an inexpensive way to go but you need at least a regulator if not a flow meter. You can get a regulator for 50 bucks if you look around. You could maybe find a CO2 bottle used for beverages. The prefered MIG mix is 75% CO2 and 23% argon. The bottle itself will run you over a hundred and filled it will cost more. Depends on your local welding supply.
 

leadfootloon

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Argon is used in mig welding its a mix to keep costs down 75 /25. Flux core is a gas less weld. Just change out the wire and get a regular. To keep your welds looking better stay on the leading edge of your puddle. And when using gas you have to keep your tip close to the puddle to keep the puddle surrounded and gas to keep porosity from happening.
 

gte718p

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The easiest way to improve your welds look and structure is to make sure the metal is immaculately clean before you weld.

Co2/Argon will create less splatter and you don't have to clean the flux off the weld. It will not make you welds any better if your welding in dirty metal or using poor technique. It can make things worse. You lose some heat to the gas so you get less penetration. Not usually an issue unless you are working near the edge of your welders capacity.
 

dr_clyde

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Argon is used in mig welding its a mix to keep costs down 75 /25. Flux core is a gas less weld. Just change out the wire and get a regular. To keep your welds looking better stay on the leading edge of your puddle. And when using gas you have to keep your tip close to the puddle to keep the puddle surrounded and gas to keep porosity from happening.

This is not true. It has nothing to do with cost. Different gases have different effects on the puddle and different gases are required for different base metals.

75 argon 25 c22 for general use short arc mig welding
90 argon 10 co2 spray arc
pure argon for aluminum wire welding and TIG welding
tri mix with helium for stainlless
argon helium blend for TIG aluminum

Many more, depending on application.
 

zkling

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This is not true. It has nothing to do with cost. Different gases have different effects on the puddle and different gases are required for different base metals.

75 argon 25 c22 for general use short arc mig welding
90 argon 10 co2 spray arc
pure argon for aluminum wire welding and TIG welding
tri mix with helium for stainlless
argon helium blend for TIG aluminum

Many more, depending on application.

Just to add a bit to this. In short circuit transfer, the CO2 in 75/25 is what provides penetration and pin point heat to the weld. You can mig steel with straight CO2, but not straight argon or at least not on the smaller machines. The argon helps to stabilize the welding arc and reduce spatter as well as penetration.

Now tig was originally ran with Helium, and that was switched out to argon for $ savings.
 

trackwelder

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I like the reverse half moon while bridging gaps. And just a straight push or pull for the rest. I am not looking to put your equipment down but you will learn and get better results with a better machine. I have seen countless guys get frustrated with those machines and quit.
 

Engine

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If you are a beginning welder, you can't expect your welds to look "pretty" like a more experienced welder's beads would look. Like anything else you learn, it takes time and practice. Also, just by using shielding gas instead of flux core will not necessarily make that much difference in the way the weld beads look. Keep in mind that the variables such as metal type, thickness, fitup, are important. Work with your machine settings such as welding wire thickness, voltage control, and wire speed to control the penetration and heat. Control your application technique by arc length, gun angle, and travel speed.

Can you improve greatly? Yes! Is there some simple and easy way to do it? Yes... practice.
 

srmofo

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I like the reverse half moon while bridging gaps. And just a straight push or pull for the rest. I am not looking to put your equipment down but you will learn and get better results with a better machine. I have seen countless guys get frustrated with those machines and quit.

I disagree with this statement. Learning to weld on a crappy machine will teach you the importance of technique. When you finally upgrade, you will have a solid foundation.
 
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nick.koehler6

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What is the best all around wire to run? I am almost out and I am looking into a new spool. I currently have .30 in t now.
 

fnieto

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Practice practice practice. I use Flux core, 75/25,90/10,tri mix and argon/helium mix.
All machines are millers and one lincoln. I will say the flus core is more forgiving on dirty surfaces. Different gasses require different heat ranges as some gasses "cool" the puddle.
Keep on welding and upgrade your machine when you want to move up to the next level.
Good luck.
 

BD1

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Is your machine 120 volts ? If so, get .023 . Some machines have a sweet spot for a certain diameter. My MILLER 211 runs best on .030.
 
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Tinner

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The nicest all around wire is Lincoln Electric Superarc.

I'll second that. Superb for sheet metal and very nice on heavy material, as well. Absolutely worth the price difference over cheap wire. Hard to go wrong with Lincoln rod and wire in general. ESAB is always a good choice. When I worked in a shop where I got everything I wanted, I was a Eutectic man. ;)
 

trackwelder

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I disagree with this statement. Learning to weld on a crappy machine will teach you the importance of technique. When you finally upgrade, you will have a solid foundation.

Same here I disagree with the above statement. Trying to teach yourself how to weld with a low quality, power lacking machine is a waste of time and money. Find someone with a decent machine and run a few passes, you will see the difference. I have been at this for over twenty years and have burned thousands of pounds of wire in every type. If you really are set on using this machine get a bottle of 75/25 and some 0.23 wire.

I agree on the Lincoln wire. All we run know at work is Lincoln wire.
 

sberry

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Our LWS has a "house brand" generic China wire but its really good. They are a big enough outfit they can probably power shop. They had some Esab on the shelf and maybe some Linc but this is white box by the pallet about 1/2 price.
 

Toolhorder

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Just picked up a Miller 211 today. So happy....

1st project is welding up exhaust on one of my older pickups.
 
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srmofo

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Same here I disagree with the above statement. Trying to teach yourself how to weld with a low quality, power lacking machine is a waste of time and money. Find someone with a decent machine and run a few passes, you will see the difference. I have been at this for over twenty years and have burned thousands of pounds of wire in every type. If you really are set on using this machine get a bottle of 75/25 and some 0.23 wire.

I agree on the Lincoln wire. All we run know at work is Lincoln wire.

So learning the importance of proper technique "is a waste of time and money" ?
 

sberry

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I have seen this done near every which way it can be,, was at someones garage the other day,, saw one with thick layer of dust on it... tried it once and hasn't used it again.
 

trackwelder

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So learning the importance of proper technique "is a waste of time and money" ?


I guess you could also learn to port heads with a dremel to learn the technique LOL.

Maybe AWS will recommend these welders for new welders.
 

sberry

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Some cheaper welders have been getting better. There are certain costs you just cant get away from and get it to work right and the competition is so fierce among good companies that the customer gets a great value.

They cant get it to work at 10% of the cost of the real thing. A lot of welding companies have long term vision, some of it is catching up as I saw a brand name unit that copies a foreign cheaper competitor.

There is risk to cheaper and sometimes the other way around but for 2 or 300 juice in a market where how good it works is critically observed by experts a novice can use a world class machine with a super warranty, brandy new brand name, Hobart, Linc or Miller makes the savings marginal.

Hard line tools have enjoyed a rise as did some power tools or parts of power tools which is a slightly different matter but,,, new steel mills in China and other parts of the world make good steel just as cheap as **** in a competitive world market.

Inverter technology has narrowed the gap and isn't finished yet, I know 30 yrs ago I would have said ******** but its here.


Like other commodities the end user isn't always aware of the process but some of it is so good you cant tell it from the real thing and the reason is that it is with a different brand stamped on it, same screwdriver with a different handle sold all over the world at different branding and price levels without the fancy box.

I hammered on a 99 cent China end wrench with a pair of Channelocks beside the road, worked out one of those long Ford brake bleeder, OEM 91. I got high dollar flank drive and I would have expected what you can expect from it but this little Olympia I paid a dollar for as a single from TSC fit perfect (I see they changed brands and raised pricing some) is impressive.
The end user got the result, 1 dollar invested or 30, same work and after a while I come to expect that of these dollar tools when they havnt failed and the fit is so good, I spot one with co0nfidence as a solution.

The welding industry has a reputation of being dependable, I got 2 or 3 decades old and never serviced and a small mig ran beyond any part timer took 1000's of hours to require fan oil. 1 selector switch a long time in reasonably priced and a broken socket when a forklift hit it. The last thing a guy needs is find a faulty machine at a crucial time.
The buzz box was a so-so welder and it worked but it was dependable. I have heard here accounts of cheap welders that work good, never seen much work from one and never seen it in real life and would be worth an ask at the welding stores about how many of their calls with problems from the public come about them.

As someone said at TSC,,, 5% of the sales and 95% of the problems.
 

sberry

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I would like to be in marketing welding and air compression for one of these big farm stores, Faimily Farm or TSC but they are too lame and safe, not very forward and the Farm niche lets them play where in Menards and Home Depot they would have their azz kicked.
TSC should toss that farmhand welder out the door with the Clarke and put up a sign that says,,, we only sell real Hobart,,, Walmart sells CH. The only reason they do it is margins on invested dollars. They pay 79 and it sells for 179,, great except it was the last spent dollar there, one roll of flux core and it was done. Yes, they only make a 100 for selling a 500 Hobart but the same guy spent 1200 in all, new auto hood, tank, rolls of wire, rolls of wire next month and for a couple yrs. A pack or 2 of tips and when he trades up will give TSC a look again.

They went to the outfit that makes the Husky tool I believe and got Farmhand, some of those models are good and while the in store deal is a bit more than elsewhere by a 20$ bill the stuff works and is reliable. Same for the air comps.
 

sberry

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Hobart and the gang follow up, lots of testing by the guys that build it. They are poster children for good mfg. They should go a step further in providing good "modules" and stock track for the stores. TSC is pathetic in this area, they are great for sheet you can toss on a pallet in commodity fashion but they wont take the initiative to be come a real welding store they are positioned to be.

From a mfg standpoint Hobart is dead serious about listening when they build something. They want to hear about problems. Especially early on, even a n issue with a shipping box they want to know and you can tell the guy that built it.
As I recall I found a loose screw in a 210 I tested and noticed it in another machine in a store. I never asked him again what the cause was but I am 100% sure they looked in to it with 1 person finding 2 of the same thing.

Our TSC has **** display for the strongest product in the store. All the consumables in one section, they should be stacked under the machine they go to. I was fairly impressed with a few clerks, none with any real knowledge but fair at matching right machine to customer, upsells were from AC to AC/DC and to 240 machinesand the IM230 has really filled a gap in that product line which could be basically only improved with the addition of the 120 V entry level stick inverter similar to the scheme they had with the 125 eze.
 
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sberry

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Here was a quote this morning from Hobart to one of the questions with a problem.
jnjw, sorry to hear about the problem with your Handler 140. I am actually the person here in Troy that performs the finished product audits on the Handler 140 production line. Would you be able to tell me, if you can recall, which connector was unplugged so that I may keep a closer eye on this when performing my audits? Additionally, it would be great feedback for the production line so we can do a better job in eliminating these types of issues.
 

AKmud

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Have you checked the polarity on your machine? If running straight flux core, you need to be set up electrode negative. Running electrode positive with FC is a guaranteed mess.
 

KMinAF

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I'll second that. Superb for sheet metal and very nice on heavy material, as well. Absolutely worth the price difference over cheap wire. Hard to go wrong with Lincoln rod and wire in general. ESAB is always a good choice. When I worked in a shop where I got everything I wanted, I was a Eutectic man. ;)

What makes one wire different/better than the next?
 

Tinner

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What makes one wire different/better than the next?

In the case of Lincoln L-56, it burns with a nice smooth stable arc, making it great for low amperage sheet metal work. Crank it up and it still runs smooth, yet blows scale off heavier plate. It responds to small adjustments well. You can tweak it to run at odd angles in tight spots. It's just a great all purpose wire for mild steel.

A lot of this may not be readily obvious to a novice, but believe me there is a difference. Where I work we went from that nasty Radnor stuff that Airgas sells to L-56. If they switched back now, there would be a revolt. Praxair's cheap wire is better than Radnor by the way.

As far as the differences in metallurgy/chemistry go, I haven't a clue. You'll find that most experienced welders have rod and wire preferences. I could show you better than I can tell you.
 
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