Welding Jackets?

[Quiksilver]

After putting it off for too long, I have decided to finally start looking for a welding jacket. I am just looking for recommendations, does anyone have a really standout jacket. I wanted to ask, just in case there are features that I should look for that some may not have.

I would really like to have something that is fairly light so that I can still wear it in the summer without suffering from a heat stroke or something.

Does the leather type make a difference? I have seen some that are cowhide and some that are pigskin.

I like the idea that this one is cotton with leather arms. What do you all think?

http://workingperson.com/products/6..._Welding_Jacket_with_Pigskin_FRB9-30C-PS.html

 

[Stuart in MN]

I have one of the all cotton ones, like this: http://www.sentrysafetysupply.com/display_product_1566/tillman-welding-jacket-large.htm It's not going to be as durable as leather, but it works okay and it only costs $12.00.

 

[Jbullfrog]

I have a cotton jacket with leather sleaves and a seperate leather apron. I got mine at Linweld's open house. The cotton/leather jacket is ok in the summer and I think the leather sleaves hold up better, as they don't get as dirty.

 

[george4]

Just went through that decision after starting a welding class at the JC. The instructor and the guys at the local welding supply steered me into all leather, RADNOR. Pretty well made. About $50.00. The cloth ones are cooler. I would like to hear from the guys who weld for a living.

 

[Jononon]

I have FR fabric body, leather sleeves, pretty similar to that. It's branded Lincoln Welding, I've no idea who actually made it, but it works very well. The union between the arms and the body is starting to fray a bit, but I've had it about 5 years and used it most weekends.

I could happily wear it all day, without ending up sweaty and uncomfortable, even in warmer weather. No real negatives, other than that leather would probably be more durable.

 

[comp]

I have one of the all cotton ones, like this: http://www.sentrysafetysupply.com/display_product_1566/tillman-welding-jacket-large.htm It's not going to be as durable as leather, but it works okay and it only costs $12.00.

wow that is cheap

 

[Franz©]

""You arrive at the costume party, and walk up the stairs of the big home. The parking area is full, and the valets are waiting for more guests to arrive. The front door opens as you approach it, and the host of the party greets you, delighted with your costume. You look around, and everyone is wearing welding jackets. Some are all cowhide, many are colorful, but you know now that your Black Stallion FRB9-30C-BS FR blue welding jacket will win the prize for best welder's costume""

I suppose that flyin pile of **** might make you points among a bunch of drunks lighting their cigaretts with a torch, but you wouldn't catch me in that thing for love or money anyplace but a party, and you'd have to give me the jacket to get me to wear it.

Thit type of advertising is exactly why so many people are totally confused about welding equipment.

I still wear the same black leather I bought 20 years ago, and I still hate the thing. It's heavy, and it gets stiff in winter and stinks in summer when I hate wearin it most, but it stops most of the flying goobers. Honestly I generally don't wear it unless I have to because it's uncomfortable. It's uncomfortable because it's functional! I also have a pair of sleves I wear, sometimes, black leather and heavy. If they weren't heavy they would have no value.

For the average weekend warrior leathers aren't practical unless you're under a vehicle welding above your head. A NOMEX SHIRT WOULD BE MONEY FAR BETTER SPENT.

If you don't want to pop for NOMEX, find a good 100% cottin shirt, wash it a couple times and soak it in fireproofing solution, squeeze it out, and let it dry on a hanger. It'll be stiff when you put it on, and hot as hell in summer, but it might save your skin.
Fireproofing solution for fabric
Into 3 pints water mix 1 cup ammonium chloride
(available from drugstore or chemical suppy house)
and 1/2 cup ammonium phosphate
(available from a garden supply store).
Soak cloth well and let dry.

 

[comp]

what about soaking in borax ???

 

[Franz©]

Borax has fore protective value, but it's hell on your skin, caustic I believe.

Sodium silicate works well too, but you better have a waterhose handy when you climb out of the shirt cause you'll need to deslime yourself. If you can't you'll dry out looking like you have fishscales.

 

[johnny1290]

Thanks for the link to that $12 jacket, they have some great stuff on that website!

 

[Merkava_4]

I went to the leather craft store and and got the required punch and snap kit to install extra snaps on mine. Those sparks have a mind of their own and they will find a way to get through an opening if they can.

 

[comp]

Borax has fore protective value, but it's hell on your skin, caustic I believe.

Sodium silicate works well too, but you better have a waterhose handy when you climb out of the shirt cause you'll need to deslime yourself. If you can't you'll dry out looking like you have fishscales.

mmmmmmKay

 

[Jononon]

mmmmmmKay

Unfortunately, that which is true of Borax is also true of ammonium chloride and ammonium phosphate, they're both strong, soluble, skin sensitisers. That recipe has taken on a life of its own, being cut and pasted on the internet, but it's far from ideal for workwear worn in contact with skin.

Nomex IIIa is unsuited to welding clothing, Indura would be a better choice if you decide to stick with a shirt.

References:

FR fabric comparisons: 1 2

Ammonium chloride MSDS

Ammonium phosphate MSDS

 

[george4]

Unfortunately, that which is true of Borax is also true of ammonium chloride and ammonium phosphate, they're both strong, soluble, skin sensitisers. That recipe has taken on a life of its own, being cut and pasted on the internet, but it's far from ideal for workwear worn in contact with skin.

Nomex IIIa is unsuited to welding clothing, Indura would be a better choice if you decide to stick with a shirt.

References:

FR fabric comparisons: 1 2

Ammonium chloride MSDS

Ammonium phosphate MSDS

Good links, thanks.

 

[comp]

Good links, thanks.

I agree

 

[OldCarGuy]

I use my Tillman’s leather long sleeved cape and separate apron when I do any serious welding projects. http://www.jtillman.com/

My favorite is their thin deer skin gloves that give you enough protection for TIG and MIG welding while enhancing feel and dexterity.

 

[eschoendorff]

I use my Tillman’s leather long sleeved cape and separate apron when I do any serious welding projects.

Old Car Guy unknowingly invents a new superhero...

If we see a guy in a welding mask with red tights flying' around, we'll know who it is!

 

[Kurn]

I've been using an old suede coat for years.Stands up to almost anything,even spatter from welding galvanized.

 

[Quiksilver]

Thank you all for the feedback. I think I may just go with sleeves, instead of a full jacket. That way I am not tempted to leave in on the bench and still get my arms burnt.

Man, I love this site.

 

[comp]

I've been using an old suede coat for years.Stands up to almost anything,even spatter from welding galvanized.

Hmmmmmmmm, 2nd hand store we go

 

[ba614]

As a pro welder ... 20+ years construction pipe welder ... for real protection we use leather ... I sometimes use a single leather sleeve ... in a bad spot I use a set of sleeves that have a short jacket length apron that snaps on the yolk ... 95% of the time we only use heavy cotton shirts ... the thing about being a pro welder is that you learn how to get away from the sparks ... the cloth welding will burn through and offer little heat protection but will save your shirt for a little while

 

[george4]

As a pro welder ... 20+ years construction pipe welder ... for real protection we use leather ... I sometimes use a single leather sleeve ... in a bad spot I use a set of sleeves that have a short jacket length apron that snaps on the yolk ... 95% of the time we only use heavy cotton shirts ... the thing about being a pro welder is that you learn how to get away from the sparks ... the cloth welding will burn through and offer little heat protection but will save your shirt for a little while

Thanks for your insight.

 

[1931S/X]

i weld for a living. i have tried all cotton welding jackets, all leather and the leather sleeved models. they each serve there purpose. my favorite ar ethe cotton ones. dont ever wash them and they will hold up pretty well. i dont mind wearing a leather if i need it, not so bad in the winter if you get one big enough that you can wear a sweat shirt under it. actually most of the time i just wear a sweatshirt. id recomend wearing a long sleeve t shirt under a leather as if you sweat your skin is going to turn all kinds of funky colors fro mthe dye in the leather. it doesnt come off easy either. for brands, i liek the tilman stuff.

 

[Sack]

I prefer el nekkid

 

[jhn9840]

I have a leather jacket that I bought off the local Hobart dealer many years ago and it is on of the better investments I made. The trick is getting enough skill to avoid the sparks then a long sleeve flannel or cotton shirt will do fine most of the time.

jhn9840
John

 

[asp]

I put off getting one for a very long time but I finally got sick and tired of getting burned. I happened to mention it on another forum and a friend goes 'oh yeah, I've got a couple you can have, just make me an offer' I gave him $100 and came home with a used (who cares) leather welding jacket & pants in near-new condition and 5 old American vises.

Now that I've got it, I wear it all the time. It's going to be brutally hot during the summer, but not getting burned will be worth it.

 

[Monte]

www.weldas.com

 

[alex71]

I will prefer leather welding jackets for everyone for escape from sparks because these jackets are well made and also keep comfortable through inside and protect from outside.

SPAM bumping three year old thread

 

[c_mccann]

x2 on the Tilman suade sleeves and detatchable apron. Also, the calf-skin TIG gloves have the best dexterity and the seam on the ends of the fingers are the smallest.

 

[spv]

I use Black Stallion slip on sleeves. They do a great job when Tigging. Last thing I need is a sleeve on fire. I also use Black Stallion Tigster gloves. They are perfect for precision welding. Thin gloves that give a lot of feel but still have adequate heat protection.

 

[t100]

99% of my welding is tig so, I don't wear the one with leather sleeves anymore.

you can actually buy sleeves if you needed: