Welding Light

[HAP]

Here is a light I fabbed-up this weekend to help me see where my weld bead is going. I know many people like myself complain of this using an auto dark helmet.
Used some 1x1 steel square tube for the arms. The lamp bracket is aluminum and one high bay light fixture. Full extended reach is just over 6 feet. Will come in handy for working under the hood too.
Pretty pleased with the results.

R,
HAP

 

[justanengineer]

Here is a light I fabbed-up this weekend to help me see where my weld bead is going. I know many people like myself complain of this using an auto dark helmet.

Can you explain that comment a bit? Ive never heard of it aside from folks who used too dark of a shade. Ive welded in pitch dark many times and cant say Ive ever had issues unless I had the wrong shade.

 

[ford33]

I don't understand the purpose of the light in regards to an auto-darkening helmet. The light might be useful to aid in set-up and clean-up.

An auto-darkening helmet should provide enough light to see what you are doing before you strike the arc. My Lincoln helmet does not require extra light to see before I start to weld.

 

[rkevins]

where did you find the bulb? and if you don't mind how much was it ?

 

[lilredex]

Can you explain that comment a bit? Ive never heard of it aside from folks who used too dark of a shade. Ive welded in pitch dark many times and cant say Ive ever had issues unless I had the wrong shade.

Guess you still have the sight of a seven year old........I've had difficulty with going off the track for about the last ten years, with a #10 standard lense.

Additional light on the work does help. Also awaiting details on that bulb.

 

[HAP]

The bulbs are pretty common, just search for high watt CFL.
And thanks for the back-up regarding the need for additional task lighting while welding. I used the CFL to avoid triggering the helmet shade, which is what happens if tou try to use a holagen lamp (very annoying). Also, there is less heat from the CFL.
This size bulb (very large) is around $70.00 and is intended to retrofit halide fixures.

HAP

 

[zuk123]

I'm in my mid 40's and I find it SUPER helpful to have high ambient light when welding. It reduces the contrast between the arc/puddle and the material, making it much easier to put the weld where you want it.

FWIW, I usually set my helmet a shade or 2 darker than strictly needed as some additional protection. The high ambient really helps then.

I've got 4 500w halogens on tall stands (shop built from scrap) that I can move around my table to light my setup from every angle. If I worked at a bench or on small pieces, I think HAP's swingarm would be just the ticket.

And I can see it being very helpful for under hood work.

Nice execution HAP.

zuk

edit -- I don't have trouble with my helmet triggering from the halogens, unless something moves across the sensor (my hand, or part of the structure I'm welding.) Then the quick change in ambient triggers it.

 

[ed_h]

Can you explain that comment a bit? Ive never heard of it aside from folks who used too dark of a shade. Ive welded in pitch dark many times and cant say Ive ever had issues unless I had the wrong shade.

Many auto-dark helmets only go down to #9, and some suspect it's really more like 9.5. Some extra ambient light really helps me, too.

 

[turnpikecrusier]

I've been welding for 35 years on pipelines and shop, I useable #6 lens with dark safety glasses. Never had a problem seeing where to weld,also I use self darkening hood in shop.just a personal preference I guess.

 

[BigSteve63]

Nicely done! I have problems seeing at times too and have found that a halogen work light does wonders. (So does my cheater lens!)

 

[PCO6]

At 60 I don't see nearly as well as I used to and it has caused some difficulties with my welding. I don't know much about cheater lenses but I think it may be time to learn.

I saved the photo below a while ago thinking it may come in handy some day. I might have even found it on GJ. I believe it's a simple LED flashlight.

 

[Fyrme]

I agree that extra light helps see the weld surface. I have 20/20 vision and when I use a #10 in a room that's got average light, there is always just enough shadow to prevent me from seeing the surface very well. I've used a #8 lens but the arc burns my eyes. My welds are always better when I weld outdoors in the sun light compared to when in a dim shop setting.

 

[Zrexxer]

That's an elegant solution to getting lighting over your workpiece, and seems to be well thought out. Ambient light does in fact help your overall spatial sense when welding, especially with older eyes. I've found it to be necessary once I passed into my fifties.

 

[justanengineer]

Guess you still have the sight of a seven year old........I'm seventy and have had difficulty with going off the track for about the last ten years, with a #10 standard lense.

Well, Im fairly young (30 this summer) but cant claim great eyesight - starting to struggle in that period of "should have glasses but being stubborn about getting them." I suspect the issue if youre needing light is more in your hood than your eyes. #10 isnt really a "standard" lens for most unless youre getting into heavy structural welding, and I only know a few guys with eyes strong enough to use #10 on smaller projects.

Many auto-dark helmets only go down to #9, and some suspect it's really more like 9.5. Some extra ambient light really helps me, too.

Thanks, that was the explanation I was looking for. Didnt mean to cause a stir, just curious as to the reason bc welding in zero or low light isnt uncommon and Id never heard of "welding lights" before. Personally, I weld with either #8 or #9 for most projects, switching to #10 only if Im doing heavy structural welding. Call me old fashioned, I have a Speedglas and she has one of the rebranded Hobart/Miller auto-darks, but I still prefer my old fixed-shade unless I need to run a mile of weld. Neither of the two autos have the issue with lower limits that I can tell.

 

[Thruxton]

Welding forums are full of older guys like the OP and me (71) complaining of having difficulty seeing the puddle when MIG welding, and lighting solutions to help with the problem. Try a Google search and you'll see. I know, because I just did and found a lot of useful info. Especially two points:

1. watch your backlighting- if you have the sun behind you, or are working in a shop with white walls, you might need to but something (chamois cloth was one suggestion) on the BACK of your helmet to reduce glare inside the helmet. Worked for me!

2. get used to watching the edge of the puddle, not the arc. For a newbie welder like me that made a huge difference.

Using both tips my ability to see what I'm doing improved enormously! I'm sure, sooner or later, my welding will, too...

 

[lilredex]

Well, Im fairly young (30 this summer) but cant claim great eyesight - starting to struggle in that period of "should have glasses but being stubborn about getting them." I suspect the issue if youre needing light is more in your hood than your eyes. #10 isnt really a "standard" lens for most unless youre getting into heavy structural welding, and I only know a few guys with eyes strong enough to use #10 on smaller projects.



Thanks, that was the explanation I was looking for. Didnt mean to cause a stir, just curious as to the reason bc welding in zero or low light isnt uncommon and Id never heard of "welding lights" before. Personally, I weld with either #8 or #9 for most projects, switching to #10 only if Im doing heavy structural welding. Call me old fashioned, I have a Speedglas and she has one of the rebranded Hobart/Miller auto-darks, but I still prefer my old fixed-shade unless I need to run a mile of weld. Neither of the two autos have the issue with lower limits that I can tell.

When I referred to a "standard" lense, I meant one that has a fixed shade (#10) and not one of those auto. darkening ones.

Any welder I ever purchased, that came with a lense, was always a #10. Figured there was always a reason for that. This is the kind of chart I have always used as a guide, and followed (comfort column) as I have had enough eye problems over the years without adding to the risk.

http://www.metalwebnews.com/howto/guide/guide.pdf

 

[lilredex]

At 60 I don't see nearly as well as I used to and it has caused some difficulties with my welding. I don't know much about cheater lenses but I think it may be time to learn.

I saved the photo below a while ago thinking it may come in handy some day. I might have even found it on GJ. I believe it's a simple LED flashlight.

That is a great idea......and as usual PAL has the solution starting tomorrow.

http://www.princessauto.com/pal/en/...wn&utm_source=eflyer&utm_campaign=distributed

Thanks for posting that.....I am going to try it!

 

[Ryf]

nice solution to a problem, thank you for sharing it.

 

[Fueler]

Hap,
You got my attention. Nice application. Light with welding is a good thing.

I have 400w metal halide lights in my shop. They do put out heat which is fine in the winter but not so great in the summer.
While always happy to cut my energy costs the Lumens throw me off.

The metal halide is listed at:
400 watts
36000 Lumens.
20000 hrs expected life.
Cost: 24.00

Light and brightness is not something I want to downgrade.

This CFL version is rated at:
200 watts
12000 lumens. 1/3 the Lumens of the MH.
10000 hrs expected life. 1/2 the life expectancy of the MH.
Cost: $68.00 Almost 3 times the cost of the MH.

Looks like a monetary wash as far as watts is concerned with less light.

Can someone fill me in on anything I am overlooking?
Is Lumens a solid identifier or a numbers game?

 

[HAP]

The numbers could be just that, numbers. They boast about the cost savings as the reason to upgrade. I have no experience to offer iluumination comparisons. However, the "instant on" is worth considering...

R,
HAP

 

[OldracerJones]

You can get these and many others at 1000bulbs.com

 

[Jackfre]

If I find myself in the "lost" category as to where I am going I will sometimes use my carbide tipped scratch all to make a line along the edge of where I want the puddle to end. The contrast of that scratch really defines the edge for me and acts as a guide. I make sure I just tie it in with the edge of the puddle.

 

[NUTTSGT]

I like the light, a really great design.

I'll give just one word of caution with the open bulb. Many years ago, I had trouble light under the car while welding on some sub-frame connectors. A welding berry hit the incadescent, melted through the glass and caused the bulb to explode. A piece of glass went behind, around the safety glass and stuck to my eye. Luckily, it didn't penetrate but did scare me.

Yes, it was a freak accident but I'm try watch out having a bulb around where I'm welding.

 

[Tim The Tool Man]

I like the light, a really great design.

I'll give just one word of caution with the open bulb. Many years ago, I had trouble light under the car while welding on some sub-frame connectors. A welding berry hit the incandescent, melted through the glass and caused the bulb to explode. A piece of glass went behind, around the safety glass and stuck to my eye. Luckily, it didn't penetrate but did scare me.

Yes, it was a freak accident but I'm try watch out having a bulb around where I'm welding.

I was going to make a similar comment but add that those compact fluorescent bulbs actually contain a small amount of mercury and I can easily imagine a stray chunk of slag popping that bulb and then the heat of welding putting mercury vapor in your lungs would be a very bad thing.

 

[Zeke]

I need a light on the work to start my TIG welds as both on my auto darks flash me on low amps. I use a 500 watt halogen and the work looks like I'm using a no.6 static lens. I use a no. 10 gold.

 

[NUTTSGT]

I was going to make a similar comment but add that those compact fluorescent bulbs actually contain a small amount of mercury and I can easily imagine a stray chunk of slag popping that bulb and then the heat of welding putting mercury vapor in your lungs would be a very bad thing.

Good point about the mercury but, I believe most people over exaggerate the mercury in a flourescent bulb. I standard 48" lamp has a smaller amount of mecury than the head of a pin.

 

[Todd.Brock]

I am using a flourescent fixture to weld. Sometimes, my Jackson Nexgen auto darkening doesn't in darken. Does rant have something to do with using a bright light, or an issue with my hood?

 

[Mike007]

Glad I'm not the only one with this problem. Ive just about given up on mig welding. If I don't shield my eyes from the arc with the tip of the gun I can't see anything. And Ive got a good hood with a magnifier.

Whenever possible, I tack with the mig and stick weld. The stick arc isn't as blinding for me and the flux makes the puddle more defined. I can also see the material better.