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Welding on a Modern Car

dkroth

Well-known member
Joined
Mar 11, 2010
Messages
3,067
Location
Rochester, New York
I've got a few rust pin-holes forming on the quarter panel of my 1998 BMW. Am I OK weld them up with my MIG unit? Is the electrical inteference from the welder going to kill some/all of the electronics in the car?

Where's a good place to connect the ground from the welder? I'd like to do it as close as possible the the welding site rather than the battery or engine. I want to minimize the current flowing through the car body and wiring.
 
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jhelrey

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Sep 15, 2010
Messages
7,245
Location
MN
I always see them connect it to the area where they are welding and not only do they clamp it, but they weld their clamp to the car.
 

sberry

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Jun 18, 2005
Messages
35,747
Location
Brethren, Michigan
Clamp ground to the piece you are working on.
Where's a good place to connect the ground from the welder? I'd like to do it as close as possible the the welding site rather than the battery or engine. I want to minimize the current flowing through the car body and wiring.
NOT to battery or engine unless you are welding on it.
 

atari

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Joined
Dec 20, 2008
Messages
555
Location
Carroll, Ohio
Totally disconnect the battery and ground the welder reasonably close to were your welding. I would not weld the ground to the car, its kinda overkill. They make magnetic clamps that work really well. They have a magnet ring and a spring loaded pin in the center that the welder grounds through. Some times its easier to use than the clamp style on sheet metal. I have welded on a bunch of cars, in fact I just welded the sub-fame back into an E36. Be happy that you only have a rust issue, It could be worse.
 
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sberry

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Joined
Jun 18, 2005
Messages
35,747
Location
Brethren, Michigan
I think there as many problems caused by connect/disconnect. Have welded on hundreds. probably thousands of cars, never do it. Trucks are used as welding platforms every day.
 

topnos

Member
Joined
Mar 11, 2008
Messages
6
Location
Houston, TX
Yeah, this is the cheapest way out.........doesn't cost a dime.

At work we use the Mac tools ET20AZ Anti-Zap so there's no need to disconnect the battery.

The Mac Tool Anti-Zap is the way to go. Easy to use and ensures no eletrical surge damage to ECUs or other sensitive electrical equipment. I have one and used it a lot without 1 electrical problem.
 
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