Welding question
- Thread starter nichboy
- Start date
Mmfh
MEMBER EMERITUS
I've wondered the same thing, I'll be watching to see what everyone has to say.
Don't know the kit, but generally you can't do an actual spot weld without an actual spotwelder.
You know, the one with the tong electrodes that clamp the two pieces to be welded together and apply pressure and heat (electricity) in order to make the weld where the two workpieces touch their mating surfaces.
But you can make something close with other welders. A "rosette weld" or a "burn-through weld".
For the former, if the two sheets to be joined are thin sheetmetal type thickness, you typically make a small hole on the 'top' sheet, clamp the pieces together (after doing the appropriate welding prep of clean and such), then weld the 'edge' of the hole to the 'bottom' sheet (making a kind of lap weld) and then you do a quick 'swirl' weld around the hole to fill it all in. Not quite as quick and easy as a spot weld and you (may) end up with a small weld bead visible on the surface (dependent on operator skill, as most welding is) that can be ground or sanded as desired, but it's relatively quick and (to me) kind of fun to do.
The second 'variant' is more for when a 'thin' sheet is to be welded to a 'thicker' piece underneath. You don't need to make a hole in the top sheet, you just start a weld and let the arc/heat melt through until you have some fusion/penetration into the underlying piece and make sure you let the bead/puddle fuse both into the bottom piece as well as tying in the top piece. I'm not good/experienced enough to make this type of weld on two similar thickness pieces of sheetmetal (thin gauge stuff), because enough heat/power to melt through the top sheet and I'm instantly right through the bottom sheet as well (automotive type gauge thickness there) and have a hole through everything. I'll do a rosette weld if doing sheetmetal. Someone else may have the skill/experience to do a burn-through on sheetmetal-on-sheetmetal, but not for me.
Some welders (machines) have (or can add an accessory) to set 'spot/stitch' time/timers. You set the machine and then set the timers so you get a 1/2 second (or whatever) weld and then the machine stops the weld. Reset timer and do the next one, etc, etc. Makes for some more consistency in short/small welds.
YMMV.
You know, the one with the tong electrodes that clamp the two pieces to be welded together and apply pressure and heat (electricity) in order to make the weld where the two workpieces touch their mating surfaces.
But you can make something close with other welders. A "rosette weld" or a "burn-through weld".
For the former, if the two sheets to be joined are thin sheetmetal type thickness, you typically make a small hole on the 'top' sheet, clamp the pieces together (after doing the appropriate welding prep of clean and such), then weld the 'edge' of the hole to the 'bottom' sheet (making a kind of lap weld) and then you do a quick 'swirl' weld around the hole to fill it all in. Not quite as quick and easy as a spot weld and you (may) end up with a small weld bead visible on the surface (dependent on operator skill, as most welding is) that can be ground or sanded as desired, but it's relatively quick and (to me) kind of fun to do.
The second 'variant' is more for when a 'thin' sheet is to be welded to a 'thicker' piece underneath. You don't need to make a hole in the top sheet, you just start a weld and let the arc/heat melt through until you have some fusion/penetration into the underlying piece and make sure you let the bead/puddle fuse both into the bottom piece as well as tying in the top piece. I'm not good/experienced enough to make this type of weld on two similar thickness pieces of sheetmetal (thin gauge stuff), because enough heat/power to melt through the top sheet and I'm instantly right through the bottom sheet as well (automotive type gauge thickness there) and have a hole through everything. I'll do a rosette weld if doing sheetmetal. Someone else may have the skill/experience to do a burn-through on sheetmetal-on-sheetmetal, but not for me.
Some welders (machines) have (or can add an accessory) to set 'spot/stitch' time/timers. You set the machine and then set the timers so you get a 1/2 second (or whatever) weld and then the machine stops the weld. Reset timer and do the next one, etc, etc. Makes for some more consistency in short/small welds.
YMMV.
Zeke
Well-known member
Spot welding is resistance welding, but one can get fusion by heating one side. It's not as much of a gimmick as it seems. Not used in production because it's slow. As usual, better equipment does better work. Commercial shops use 3-phase machines.
Not recommended for structural work. And it doesn't work with MIG, it works with a stick welder. If you have MIG, you don't need this thing. In fact, if you have an arc welder, you can hook up a scratch start TIG torch and do fusion welding through 2 panels. One sided spot welding of any technique won't work with more than a 2 panel ***'y.
The reviews for the Eastwood unit have never been very good.
Not recommended for structural work. And it doesn't work with MIG, it works with a stick welder. If you have MIG, you don't need this thing. In fact, if you have an arc welder, you can hook up a scratch start TIG torch and do fusion welding through 2 panels. One sided spot welding of any technique won't work with more than a 2 panel ***'y.
The reviews for the Eastwood unit have never been very good.
Ahh, looked up the 'kit'. Clamp, a MIG nozzle with stand-offs (helps you get consistent stand-off distance and also get 'trapped' in the opening of the clamp so the tip doesn't wander or wiggle around due to operator error or coffee-induced twitches), and some drill bits.
You use the drill bits to make a hole in the 'top' sheet, then use the clamp to clamp the sheets together, then use the nozzle to have a consistent stand-off while you make the weld.
Doesn't look like a 'bad' kit, but it pretty much lets you do what I outlined above.
YMMV.
You use the drill bits to make a hole in the 'top' sheet, then use the clamp to clamp the sheets together, then use the nozzle to have a consistent stand-off while you make the weld.
Doesn't look like a 'bad' kit, but it pretty much lets you do what I outlined above.
YMMV.
1948
Well-known member
as stated above. just drill a 1/4 inch hole(or something close) clamp the sheets tight, and then fill the hole.
http://sphotos.**.fbcdn.net/hphotos-snc6/282447_238156192891630_117320474975203_751275_8381123_n.jpg
http://sphotos.**.fbcdn.net/hphotos-snc6/282447_238156192891630_117320474975203_751275_8381123_n.jpg
darkk
Well-known member
I'm not sure I would spend money for a dedicated spot weld attachment for a mig welder. If you can weld, you don't need it. If you can't weld yet, I doubt the attachment is going make anything easier...
GMCAMARO
Well-known member
Save the money I have tried it, it is very poor.
Also HF sells something very similar and made by the same company, save that money also, they do not work.
Also HF sells something very similar and made by the same company, save that money also, they do not work.
Falcon67
Well-known member
That. Get the heat and wire speed set right with a test panel and it goes real quick.
Steevo
Well-known member
We used to do this with a Lincoln buzz box on low amps with skinny rods. Drill a hole, clamp it, spark it, grind it. Of course it was a challenge to weld just in that little 1/4" hole.
jrsulo
Well-known member
I bought one back in 1984 as i didnt have a mig at my home shop.I thought it was a good idea,but the thing sucked !!!!!!!