Welding table build, fixture, jig, flat? Need advice.

[wrenchMONKEY_]

So I am building a welding table this summer for home personal use.
Things I've built so far would be a cart, some agility jumps and poles and things to come are drill press stand and grinder stand, truck offroad/pre runner bumpers (front and rear) ect. I'll be using the table with a Miller 211, 375 Plasma and a Syncrowave 200 TIG.

I've decided on 4ftx8ft and am leaning towards 5/8 or 3/4 plate. May go 1/2. I'll have a vice attached via a 2in hitch mount.

My question is, I cant decide how I want to setup the table.
I see it three ways,

1) 4x8 flat and keep it flat, no holes. Pro - easy, cheaper. Con - Tough clamping in the center, heat soak into plate.
2) 4x8 flat, rent a mag drill and drill a grid pattern or have it sent out for water jet cutting. Pro - can save $ and do the holes and mag drill later. Easy clamping. Cons - Would have to modify or buy new clamps as all mine are Bessy J Clamps and regular Vice Grips.
3) Buy 40ft of 8in wide flat bar and set them up in 8x48 strips with 1.5 or so inches between the slats. Pro - Easy clamping in the slots in the center. No need for new clamps. Easy to change out bent or damaged plate. Could implement a plasma cutting/water box section at the end of the table. Con - I'd have to send the flat bar out to have it cut into section, I don't trust my bandsaw or plasma cutter to make nice true cuts.

I guess it all comes down to clamping. I don't see my self needing to do any production repetitive jig work or anytime soon.

Anyways, just looking for some thoughts and advice.
Thanks!

 

[michaelf]

me, I would just tack what you need to tack to the table or just use tack dogs or just tack c clamps to the table on one side so you can knock them off easily and then you only have to grind a small tack off.

 

[txvwnut]

me, I would just tack what you need to tack to the table or just use tack dogs or just tack c clamps to the table on one side so you can knock them off easily and then you only have to grind a small tack off.

That's how I do it. If I'm doing something that needs to follow a jig or pattern small pegs get tacked to the table. You don't have to get carried away with the tack weld either.

Although I am considering a few tapped holes in small pattern form maybe in the middle.

 

[yaidunno]

Feel free to check out my table thread: http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=313974

I was in your shoes not long ago, and went over many of the same questions/thoughts you bring up. I opted for a 4x8x3/4 plate. It came remarkably flat from the supplier (Alro), though part of me considered having it ground. I decided that the work i do does not require that level of precision. None the less, there will be no parts tacked to my table, nor does it get used as a platform for abusing parts with large hammers. The handful of projects that I've used it for so far do not require the holes for specialized clamps. The good thing about holes is that they can always be added later.

Good luck on your table build!

 

[Ironhorse74]

Found this picture somewhere. I really like the tilting idea.


pic upload

 

[gt1guy]

Found this picture somewhere. I really like the tilting idea.


pic upload

I'd really like to see the bottom of that contraption and how they keep it flat. That is very cool.

Kevin

 

[imagineer]

My table is about 36" x 72" The choice of size wasn't by design, rather I went to a local weld shop and negotiated to buy a piece of 1/2" plate. (* more on the story of how I got the plate for free later.)



In hind sight, I should have gotten 3/4" or 1" thick, because I can cause the plate to flex in certain clamping situations. Also in hindsight, I should have gotten a smaller plate. Whereas having extra surface area is great, I rarely use the whole table for welding and it becomes a catch-all for clutter and such.

I used a mag-drill and drilled 5/8" diameter holes on a 6" x 6" pattern. I'm finding that if I had more drilled holes on a tighter pattern it would be a benefit. Someday when I've got nothing better to do, I'll do just that, drill more holes.

The frame for my table is 4" square 1/8" wall aluminum tube, only because it is what I had available at the time. I have the top of the frame inset from the plate edge about 2" to facilitate a clamping area. In hind sight, this is more of a nuisance than a help. Whereas I do clamp on the 2" lip, having the 4" square frame inset means that I can't easily use the drilled holes at the perimeter of the top plate. Again, when I have some time, I'm going to build a new frame that uses smaller tubing (maybe 2" square steel) and have the frame extend to the edges of the top plate. I may also try an incorporate some of the tilting ideas from the picture that Ironhorse74 posted above.

The top plate is not attached to the frame. I welded small pieces of angle to the underside of the top, that keep the steel plate centered on the aluminum frame.

I also have a loop of wood stove door gasket (the gray rope kind) between the aluminum frame and the steel top. This is to reduce the sound when hammering on the steel top and also keep any heat from migrating into the aluminum frame. Necessary? Probably not, but it seemed to make sense at the time I made the table.

* I ended up getting the 1/2" plate for free when the guys at the weld shop saw I was taking it home inside a Chrysler minivan. It only weighed about 375lbs, but they were convinced it would crush the suspension of the minivan. I bet them double or nothing on the cost of the plate that the van would hold it.. I won.

 

[tarbellb]

I love my slate table. Took the ideas from this forum.

If you weld a lot, fixture placement is important, and price is a concern, its the way to go.

I throw MDF sheets on top for a work surface, pretty versatile.

 

[wrenchMONKEY_]

Got this 5x13 5/8 thick table for a song. Way to big, but I may just cut it in half, sell the other half for a table / scrap and call it a day.

However, I also have a line on 40ft of 8in wide 3/4 thick flat bar that would make a nice slat table, for about 50% retail.

 

[ADSR]

Very nice!

 

[wrenchMONKEY_]

Ya, I dont know if I should just sell it and build the slat table, cut it down in half or tear it all down and build what I need and sell the rest. Pretty big to handle as is.

 

[theoldwizard1]

Con - I'd have to send the flat bar out to have it cut into section, I don't trust my bandsaw or plasma cutter to make nice true cuts.

I never heard anyone say they did not trust a plasma cutter to cut true !

 

[wrenchMONKEY_]

Rather, my 375 is rated to 3/8 max, so I guess I meant I need more plasma for the job.

 

[TheEquineFencer]

So I am building a welding table this summer for home personal use.
Things I've built so far would be a cart, some agility jumps and poles and things to come are drill press stand and grinder stand, truck offroad/pre runner bumpers (front and rear) ect. I'll be using the table with a Miller 211, 375 Plasma and a Syncrowave 200 TIG.

I've decided on 4ftx8ft and am leaning towards 5/8 or 3/4 plate. May go 1/2. I'll have a vice attached via a 2in hitch mount.

My question is, I cant decide how I want to setup the table.
I see it three ways,

1) 4x8 flat and keep it flat, no holes. Pro - easy, cheaper. Con - Tough clamping in the center, heat soak into plate.
2) 4x8 flat, rent a mag drill and drill a grid pattern or have it sent out for water jet cutting. Pro - can save $ and do the holes and mag drill later. Easy clamping. Cons - Would have to modify or buy new clamps as all mine are Bessy J Clamps and regular Vice Grips.
3) Buy 40ft of 8in wide flat bar and set them up in 8x48 strips with 1.5 or so inches between the slats. Pro - Easy clamping in the slots in the center. No need for new clamps. Easy to change out bent or damaged plate. Could implement a plasma cutting/water box section at the end of the table. Con - I'd have to send the flat bar out to have it cut into section, I don't trust my bandsaw or plasma cutter to make nice true cuts.

I guess it all comes down to clamping. I don't see my self needing to do any production repetitive jig work or anytime soon.

Anyways, just looking for some thoughts and advice.
Thanks!

LOL....where are you? I have a front yard full of Agility equipment! The lady we let use the ring might be interested in selling it all as she's quit doing lessons. It'd be a lot less work, I know, I had to replace all the wood on her stuff and paint it.

If you have not built any Agility equipment before I can give you some tips on building some of it so it doesn't warp as you build it and painting it with sand for traction. I learned it the hard way.

 

[mike528]

I'd really like to see the bottom of that contraption and how they keep it flat. That is very cool.

Kevin

Looks like a certi flat table
https://weldtables.com

 

[welder59]

The tables we have made recently have been 1" Blanchard ground hot rolled plate. 48 x 96". We leave 4" hang over all around the edge for easy clamping of small items. Drill a grid pattern of 1/2-13 tapped holes and buy one or two Bridgeport hold down sets. They come in all different quality ranges. One thing we have learned from using them mostly for mig welding, it is very important to use anti-spatter on the table. After 3-4 years, depending on how much welding you do, the tables actually become "tapered" on the edge from using a 3" sander to remove weld splatter. We do use these tables 8 hours a day for welding. We started using splatter spray. At first I was not impressed but we changed brands and amazing results. We use a brand called Spatter Spatter. It comes in a black aerosol can.

 

[JonnyMac]

I had mine laser cut at 50mm intervals. Then got a handful of 12mm nuts and bolt and f-clamps. I cut the fixed end off the f clamp and welded on the bolt. Cheap and easy vertical clamp...

 

[gt1guy]

Looks like a certi flat table
https://weldtables.com

Actually I found it. It's made by Bluco.

http://www.bluco.com/modular-rollover-fixture-gallery/modular-rotating-weld-fixture/rotating-table/

Everything they make looks rather expensive. But, it gives me ideas.


Kevin

 

[steel 35]

Me too; Thanks.

 

[dr_clyde]

If it was me, I'd cut down the big table and use that. You could probably get away with cutting a slot or two in the middle of the table for clamps or drill a few holes. What you do depends on a couple of factors. Link to my table in my sig.

Do you have other work benches or is this going to be your primary bench? I use my large fab table for most of my bench work. I have holes cut on 12" centers that I did with the mag drill. I also use it for a large surface plate, and I don't trust slats to keep any sort of reasonable tolerance for the work I do without a lot of tweaking.

If this table is going to be strictly for jigging and welding, and nothing else, then the slat style welding table has some merit, but I personally don't care for it. I do enough small weldments that I need a fairly solid top.

 

[wrenchMONKEY_]

5x13 fell through. To big and a PITA to move and get down into my garage. I could of cut it down, but was not worth the time for the return.

It will be a secondary table, I have 3 big benches to use. For now, a 4x8 1/2 plate with a mag drill to drill some holes down the road is looking like its in #1 spot.

 

[dv8customs]

I had mine laser cut at 50mm intervals. Then got a handful of 12mm nuts and bolt and f-clamps. I cut the fixed end off the f clamp and welded on the bolt. Cheap and easy vertical clamp...

I did the same on mine. I had a bunch of 1/2" shoulder bolts so I cut down some cheap F-Clamps and welded the bolts on the bottom. Then borrowed a Mag drill and went to work. My table is roughly 3' x 5' and 1" thick and already had a few holes in it (that is why the pattern looks odd)

 

[vintagespeed1956]

5x13 fell through. To big and a PITA to move and get down into my garage. I could of cut it down, but was not worth the time for the return.

It will be a secondary table, I have 3 big benches to use. For now, a 4x8 1/2 plate with a mag drill to drill some holes down the road is looking like its in #1 spot.

bummer, you could make 4ea 5x3' table tops out of that big piece.

 

[Tim_P]

I did the same on mine. I had a bunch of 1/2" shoulder bolts so I cut down some cheap F-Clamps and welded the bolts on the bottom. Then borrowed a Mag drill and went to work. My table is roughly 3' x 5' and 1" thick and already had a few holes in it (that is why the pattern looks odd)

Same here. I bought some of the "high dollar" clamps and also made some cheap ones.

 

[kkroger]

Looks like a certi flat table
https://weldtables.com

Looks like an Iron Platen more than that thing...
Not saying it wouldn't sag but it would probably have cast in ribs to help.
it is definitely not a certiflat.

Looks like a Siegmund table top the rest must be custom...

 

[wrenchMONKEY_]

**** or get off the pot as my grandma used to say.

I finalized the deal on the 12'x6' 3/4 thick table. Seeing as how the 8x4 1/2 plate I was going to go with was going to run me $350 at the lowest, paying $440 for this table seemed like a no brainer. That's Canadian money BTW, so about $2.50 USD after currency conversion.

The 6 "legs" if I dare call them that, are 8"x8" 3/8 thick. Shes a solid girl, that's for sure. The plate is about 2200# and the legs are about 100# each, so Id call it 2800#ish.

Also in the deal I got a new UniWeld Argon Flowmeter, bunch of Walter sanding and cutting discs along with a bunch of Weldcraft gas lenses and cups and collets ect ect. I was happy.

So, as much as I'd love to have welding table the size of my car in the garage, it was a bit over kill and the wife was a hard sell. I decided to cut it up into 3 pieces, each measuring 6x4, keeping the best for myself and selling the other two. The legs would be cut up into 8in wide strips for some poor mans flat bar and scrap the rest.

I took the truck and trailer up to work. My Miller 375 was not up to the task of cutting this plate in half, nor did I want to pay someone else to do it for me. I was going to use the Plasma at work, but apparently the plug on the Plasma is a 600V 30 AMP and all I could not find the adapter to 600V 20AMP which is what was on the wall. Oh well.

I wanted a clean edge, so, out came the Milwaukee Metal Cutting Circular Saw!
After cutting fine for the first 15 inches, the saw started to slow down HARD and kept kicking the thermal overload. Blade was roached. Off to get a new blade. I was going to just get one, but I got two, and I am happy I did. $100 and two 50T metal blades later, we were back in business, and flying! If from the start I had used one blade per cut, I'd of been at 15 minutes per cut, more or less. Thats 48 inches per cut of 3/4 plate. That saw is a beast. I am happy I did this at work, because the plate and trailer would not fit in my garage, so I'd of been doing this outside from 7-12PM, and since I had to return the borrowed trailer tomorrow morning, I am glad I could make as much noise as I wanted at work.

Everything cut down, sweaty, dirty and tired, I went home and went to bed. Work up this morning and go back to business. Now I had to get the plates off.... I decided on pulling them sideways off the trailer, using the truck and using 12' long 2x12's to act as ramps. An hour later I was done. And not a moment to early too as the garbage guy was coming down the alley and I had to move the trailer!

Pretty clean cut. I was very happy with how well the saw cut it.

This picture makes the table look really small. Perhaps the 8x8 legs throw off the ratio.

Going to use 2x2 3/16 square for the frame. Why? It was free. Standard rectangle top, 2 braces inbetween to support the plate. Frame will be pretty standard but will feature a kickout inwards so I can get under the table to TIG.

Gonna start working on the frame tomorrow. Should take a few days, then pay someone $50 to show up with a Mini Excavator to mount this sucker and I'll be happy. Then I can start the project list.