My table is about 3/4” by 44 square. It is stout and stands straight and level. I don’t want to give that up but I do need to able to move this thing around depending upon the work I am doing. I don’t want cut the legs and just have casters on the legs. I’d be much obliged for suggestions.
Welding table mobility
- Thread starter Jackfre
- Start date
Kaizen
Well-known member
Use outriggers inward of the legs with a push with foot to lift wheel. When retracted the sit on existing legs. Can be expensive though. Get the right weight you need. Example
Workbench Caster kit - 4 Extra Heavy Duty Retractable casters, 800 lbs Weight Capacity, Urethane Wheels https://www.amazon.com/dp/B078JS7RCP/?tag=atomicindus08-20
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Workbench Caster kit - 4 Extra Heavy Duty Retractable casters, 800 lbs Weight Capacity, Urethane Wheels https://www.amazon.com/dp/B078JS7RCP/?tag=atomicindus08-20
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
dv8customs
Well-known member
My table is about 1,000 pounds. I have small bottle jacks on each end that lift the table onto the wheels. Easily rolls to where I need it and then just let it back down.
joe49
Well-known member
Floor jack under lower shelf lift till just clears floor. Or no shelf or as a addition to the bottom shelf a short leg that doesn't reach the floor in center.
Too answer the question about the bench having a vice or other attachment, or just with things on the table, before some one points out it won't balance.
When moving the table add something else laying around the shop, to the top to counter balance the table.
Should your table weight be permanently asymmetrical you can find the balance point easily by trial and error and position the short leg accordingly.
Many of my tables are made this way, though their is one in my shop that hasn't moved in 18 years, and 2 outside tables that get moved with the fork, that do not have these.
Too answer the question about the bench having a vice or other attachment, or just with things on the table, before some one points out it won't balance.
When moving the table add something else laying around the shop, to the top to counter balance the table.
Should your table weight be permanently asymmetrical you can find the balance point easily by trial and error and position the short leg accordingly.
Many of my tables are made this way, though their is one in my shop that hasn't moved in 18 years, and 2 outside tables that get moved with the fork, that do not have these.
bad_idea
Well-known member
Cut two legs (on same side) and just have casters on those two legs. Then have a cross bar between the other two legs about 8" up. When you need to move the table, you place your floor jack under the cross brace and use the jack to drag the table around. I have not done this myself, but I have seen it done.
On my table I have 8" solid steel caster wheels on each of the legs. Two of the wheels swivel, the other two swivel but have locks to lock them straight. There are locks on all four casters. The table is very stationary with the wheels locked. These are some high quality wheels. I picked them out of a dumpster, score! But to buy them would have cost a mint.
On my table I have 8" solid steel caster wheels on each of the legs. Two of the wheels swivel, the other two swivel but have locks to lock them straight. There are locks on all four casters. The table is very stationary with the wheels locked. These are some high quality wheels. I picked them out of a dumpster, score! But to buy them would have cost a mint.
jeepinerdeep
Well-known member
I went with permanent casters.
Unless your shop floor is uber flat, I just don't worry about the level, otherwise you'll be resetting it every move anyway. I don't build stuff on a bench with a level as my measuring tool.
That's just my theory. Most of these setups seem overcomplicated.
Unless your shop floor is uber flat, I just don't worry about the level, otherwise you'll be resetting it every move anyway. I don't build stuff on a bench with a level as my measuring tool.
That's just my theory. Most of these setups seem overcomplicated.
My table weighs about 800lbs unloaded...moves no problem. These castors lock TWO ways...wheel and rotation. When locked down table is not moving...and I can beat hell out of anything I want to.
Don’t get cheapo castors ...and don’t get steel ones if you want to protect your floor covering...or don’t want tracks on your conc. These won’t flat spot either.
Don’t get cheapo castors ...and don’t get steel ones if you want to protect your floor covering...or don’t want tracks on your conc. These won’t flat spot either.
racingtadpole
Well-known member
Get a pallet jack, if you already have something flat under it like braces or a sufficiently solid shelf just jack on that, if not add something.
MO-Iron
Well-known member
+1 on the pallet jack, bought mine at a government auction for less than a good set of casters.
Flail
Well-known member
My harbor freight pallet jack ($200) owes me nothing. About same cost as 4 good casters but with ability to move many loads
bad_idea
Well-known member
Pallet jack is a great idea if you have the shop space for it. We welded a couple brace in about 8" up on all of our tables in the pipe shop at work. Makes it easy to move all of the tables depending on the job we are working.
BD1
Well-known member
Pallet jack is the easiest or a engine hoist could be used. It depends on setup and whats most convient.
kazlx
Well-known member
Same here. Held off so long since I have a small shop. I think it was like $150 out the door with a coupon. One of the most useful things I've bought there. I use it all the time.
I'd either go that route or casters. Really depends on how often it needs to be moved.
Notch1988
Well-known member
I went with air ride to move mine around. There's a link in my signature to my fab table build.