Welding table...overhang or no overhang?

[pipsters]

Sorry for the ridiculous questions. I've searched and found everyone recommends having an overhang. I wanted to not have it for several design reasons but know from experience don't go against the herd.

Anyway, my question is, why is having an overhang such an important thing? Can't you clamp the bottom of the clamps to the bottom of the square tubing on the outside edges vs just the bottom of the plate?

Only issue is I'd have to buy some bigger clamps, at least 3" vs. 1" or so, but have read the bigger the better as they are stouter so not sure I would be buying such small clamps. Or am I not understanding this right?

Thanks

 

[Dirtybird103]

I have a welding/fab table that is all 4x4 and a 5/16 top. There is barely any overhang and it's a pain when I just need a small or medium c clamp, but have to use a bar clamp because of the lack of overhang. I would say overhang for sure.

 

[pipsters]

Dirty that is what I am wondering. Why is it not possible to use a larger c-clamp.

Here is an example.

 

[lilscorpion]

Yep, give yourself some overhang. I've had a few tables I used for production welding and only one had a good overhang. Since a lot of assembly required clamps, I used that one table more often than the others as a result. None of my tables had provisions for through table clamps so take that into account.

 

[astroracer]

I built overhangs into both of my welding/fab tables. I like at least 2" and have more then that on the short ends. Having that thinner overhang is very nice, not only for C-clamps but for spring clamps also.

 

[tarbellb]

Personally I like the highest amount of adjustment and clamp space as possible. That and as im sure you all have experienced the less weight and equipment you have to work with throughout the day is always a bonus.

So if you can get away with using say your 4" C clamps instead of your 8" C clamps for the duration of the project, then your saving yourself that much more effort.

My projects very on size, so the difference between being able to clamp something or not sometimes comes down to a 1/2" or 1". If my clamp cant reach because my table is 3" thick instead of 1/2" I would be cursing myself.

 

[that-guy]

Dirty that is what I am wondering. Why is it not possible to use a larger c-clamp.

Here is an example.

you def want some overhang. not so little that you can't get anything on it, but not so much that something heavy will start to bend it. taking your pictures here into consideration, your clamps are maxed out being on the support brace, allowing for clamping something maybe .5" in thickness, where on the edge/overhang, you have many threads to use where you can clamp down an item a few inches thick,

 

[pipsters]

you def want some overhang. not so little that you can't get anything on it, but not so much that something heavy will start to bend it. taking your pictures here into consideration, your clamps are maxed out being on the support brace, allowing for clamping something maybe .5" in thickness, where on the edge/overhang, you have many threads to use where you can clamp down an item a few inches thick,

Yes that was an example

I would get 8" clamps and my table would be 2" + 3/8" thick not almost 4" like in that picture

I did run a redesign now where I have 2" overhang on 3 sides and flush on back. Is 2" overhang OK? That would be best for the way I would mount the vises I have.

It's actually a moot point, I just added up the lineage, and got only an extra spare 8" out of 40' doing everything flush. Using my material, I don't have enough the way it's cut in half right now. So flush is out.

I could still do flush on all sides except the front (barely), so that option is still open. Would flush on all sides except the front with 2" overhang be pointless? Do I need to have access to all 3 or 4 sides for overhang?

 

[machine_punk]

I've got a wooden fabrication bench I use all the time. It has a double-3/4"-plywood top. It only has a couple of inches of overhang and I am frustrated by it constantly.

The main frustration is when you are working on smaller items. I don't know quite how to explain it, but it is a very frustrating situation...I frequently have items which are too small to be clamped on more than one edge of the table, but too big for just clamping adequately within 2 inches of the edge of the table.

This may not quite apply to your situation (I have huge, 2x_ lumber to clamp around, if I cannot clamp an item in the first couple of inches, it is very expensive to find clamps which would reach behind the braces easily...your general clamps may easily accommodate whatever you're using as cross members).

All I know is that I changed my "standard bench design" to begin to give me the most clamping room possible. I think I've got about 7 inches of clamping room on the front and back of most of my new bench.

While I can't list a bunch of examples, I can simply state that I have a bench which doesn't give me a lot of options for clamping near the edge and it is constantly frustrating...frustrating enough that I changed my standard bench design to give me the maximum amount of free-clamping space, while maintaining a very sturdy design.

Kev

 

[motobilt]

I normally build about 3 inches of overhang into my welding fab tables. This works well with many different clamp types. I also have a couple tables I built with slots laser cut in the table to use a clamp down set used for milling machine. I can clamp anywhere on the table this way.

Dan

 

[Jere]

My table has 3 sides flush and one side with about a foot of overhang. The sides of the overhang have angle iron supporting them, and there is another piece of angle closer to the table body for support also. It definitely comes in handy for clamping and sitting at on a stool so I don't have to bend over the table.

 

[theknurl]

overhang!

my welding table is 2' x 5', 3/4" Navy plate (1/8" of stainless fused to 5/8" of steel) with 1/4" x 3 1/2" x 3 1/2" angle stitched to the edge(corner in)

i have a lot of big JH Williams C-clamps so clamping isn't a problem

 

[that-guy]

Yes that was an example

I would get 8" clamps and my table would be 2" + 3/8" thick not almost 4" like in that picture

I did run a redesign now where I have 2" overhang on 3 sides and flush on back. Is 2" overhang OK? That would be best for the way I would mount the vises I have.

It's actually a moot point, I just added up the lineage, and got only an extra spare 8" out of 40' doing everything flush. Using my material, I don't have enough the way it's cut in half right now. So flush is out.

I could still do flush on all sides except the front (barely), so that option is still open. Would flush on all sides except the front with 2" overhang be pointless? Do I need to have access to all 3 or 4 sides for overhang?

the one i have designed is using all 2x2x.120 square tubing, and 3/16" table top. i have 6" overhang on the fronts and sides, flush in the back. i reinforced the front two corners to compensate for load, such as a vice, by adding another piece of tubing at a 45* angle attaching to the vertical leg

 

[Rawlins87]

Overhang, it's nice to have.

 

[Vegaman_Dan]

However thick your table top surface and support is, that's the amount you are reduced in welding your stock. It limits how thick of material you can work with.

Yes, you can get bigger clamps, but that also takes longer to use, are more awkward, etc.

 

[PugetDude]

Overhang on 3 sides, leave one side flush and use a deeper frame member (tube or angle) so you can clamp vertically. My 2cents worth; for free.

 

[Kaasdief]

Agree

 

[chrisa7164]

I'd go with PugetDudes suggestion

 

[astroracer]

Here is another option.
Trash picked a vanity and did a MAJOR make-over on that.
Went from this.

To this...

With the 1/4" plate top.

The spaces are sized around those plastic shoe boxes you get at BigLots or Menards (I just picked up a pack of twelve at Menards for 10 bucks. )
This gives lots of room for clamping all around and adds a lot of storage to boot...
Mark

 

[pipsters]

Astro you did a great job on that old cabinet. Besides the...ehh..."girly-ish" hardware I like it .

The expensive part in my table is the top itself, the frame is only about $100 in 2x2x1/8" tubing, really not that expensive I suppose when you look at it.

 

[astroracer]

Astro you did a great job on that old cabinet. Besides the...ehh..."girly-ish" hardware I like it .

The expensive part in my table is the top itself, the frame is only about $100 in 2x2x1/8" tubing, really not that expensive I suppose when you look at it.

Thanks, it was quite the transformation.... The hardware is what it is. 1973, ornate and flor de lea like! I did try to "man it up" a bit by spraying it brushed aluminum...

 

[sberry]

Simply yes a overhang. I agree a top cost is part of the problem. Its an item I never really scored on, my benches are cobbled but they work well,,, despite not being flat.

 

[pipsters]

So I elected to go with a 3" overhang on 3 sides, flush on the back. Cutting it up now (seems to take forever).

2" seemed a little small, and I couldn't go much more due to vise setup and I rigidity of the frame, it's only 24"x60" so with 3" overhang the frame will be 21"x54".

 

[sberry]

I like that conversion above, really good for a diy garage.

My own are all crude and started as something else and got more scrap patched on. The good side of that is a guy need not be scared to add a piece. I woudnt mind starting over and may, I don't because all this works and it wont make me any more money or cant significantly refine it to make things easier. There is a limit, the rest would be more form than function.

I have 2 benches, a 2x4 and a 3x6, not everyone can do this though. A vise is in the way a lot, I prefer another adjacent fixed location if I can help it. A simple plate top. 1/4 and up is fine for this class of work, an overhang and square corners. A shelf with expanded metal about a foot or better off of the floor.

In a small shop these are used as main benches for everything and not just welding. They can hold a lot of tools. I eventually painted the side of the cut box while to make the wrenches show up better.

 

[sberry]

If I had this to do all over again would frame it up with right sized angle and integrate a cutting grate in the top on one end with a slag buciket under. I was still blowing fire till I give this a revamp, way more work than planning it in from the start but its often how it goes when you do it for free.

What it has allowed is some trial and error to get the "geometry" just right. I would and co0uld change one an inch in height again but I got the top size right, the spacing from each other as well as the walls and tools. I have moved and added outlets, again, some old pics, a couple newer ones.

 

[sberry]

I caught a lot of cut with the original bucket but with the new tub flashed it so no soot blew under my bench.

 

[srmofo]

Dirty that is what I am wondering. Why is it not possible to use a larger c-clamp.

Here is an example.

now clamp a 2x2 square tube to that table. granted a larger clamp would get the job done but so would a smaller one on just the surface.

At the very least build the back side with an over hang so you can swing the table out and around and clamp to it if necessary.

Or if your top is thick enough you can just use spacers tall enough to slide clamps between the top and frame