Welding Table Question

[paulrey27]

I've been looking into building a welding table and I notice they all have nice, thick metal tops. Can anyone explain the reason for thick tops beyond being used as a ground and something stiff to handle the many odds and ends it will see.
Also - What about a pretty stout wood top with a 1/4" metal plate attached to that? Just trying to keep costs as low as possible for something that is currently a hobby.

Thanks

 

[WhoWhatNow]

In addition to handling a heavy load a thicker top will warp less than a thin one when you weld on top of it. Remember you will be transfering a lot of heat from your parts to the top.

That and bigger is always better

 

[tncatadjuster]

First you want flat (relative term) second anything combustible is no good. The table acts as a heat sink to some degree. Stick with the proven designs that members have contributed.

 

[Buckgnarly]

One word, HAMMERING.

 

[readhead]

If you start tacking fixtures to the top it will warp if it is to thin. The tops on the tables at our shop are 1/2".

 

[Smokz]

I often use my top as the base for a fixture. Tacking up and welding with no fear of warping. Pound the heck out of it as well. My table is 1/2" steel with a Wilton vise on the corner. When I am done I just grind it smooth once again. Now for TIG work an Aluminum or copper sheet works well without sticking. Always use a direct ground on that type of work to prevent contact arcing on the table, which can blemish a nice piece.

 

[paulrey27]

Let me toss out an idea then... What about a concrete top? Durable, hard, and in terms of heat, it's a mass that can absorb a lot of it. And it can be made (relatively) level. No warping.
Thoughts?

 

[jonzer12]

Let me toss out an idea then... What about a concrete top? Durable, hard, and in terms of heat, it's a mass that can absorb a lot of it. And it can be made (relatively) level. No warping.
Thoughts?

Brittle, it will chip and be destroyed in no time. Think of your bench as an anvil. It should be made of a material harder/tougher than the work matieral

 

[kevin47]

Concrete...? hahahaha ...ah, no..Concrete loves to explode...hahahaha

 

[kevin47]

They're correct about thicker table and using them as fixtures...But, this is in a real shop envirenment...with forklifts and such...I have a 3/8 thick 4x4 foot and it works well for my shop...

 

[paulrey27]

Brittle, it will chip and be destroyed in no time. Think of your bench as an anvil. It should be made of a material harder/tougher than the work matieral

Good point.

Concrete...? hahahaha ...ah, no..Concrete loves to explode...hahahaha

Also good point.

 

[kevin47]

check out the local scrap yards...See if you can find a suitable piece that has been "blanchard" ground for flatness, that they'll sell you...

 

[paulrey27]

They're correct about thicker table and using them as fixtures...But, this is in a real shop envirenment...with forklifts and such...I have a 3/8 thick 4x4 foot and it works well for my shop...

This is great information to have. This will be a small time shop space that is mainly used for smaller stuff. I was originally looking at 1/4" but it seemed to thin...but 1/2" is a bit pricey. Anyone else rockin' some 3/8" material top?

 

[ilovevocs]

I echo the above, look around at the scrap yards, put in some time and you will find something that is usable. Its all about networking with the right people that have access to the good "industrial waste". Fab shops, scrap yards, scrapers, just get your feelers out their and be patient....or open your wallet and call it a day.

What welder are you using? 1/4" would probably be ok to start if you got it for free, i wouldnt spend allot of cash on it though becuase it will likely not last a long time. It sounds like your just trying to get up and running, so if the price is right just take what you can get IMHO. If i was going to spend the coin, for the work that I do, i wouldnt go less then .5" for a nice piece of plate. You may find some casting at the scrap yard you can repurpose as well.

 

[paulrey27]

What welder are you using? 1/4" would probably be ok to start if you got it for free, i wouldnt spend allot of cash on it though becuase it will likely not last a long time. It sounds like your just trying to get up and running, so if the price is right just take what you can get IMHO. If i was going to spend the coin, for the work that I do, i wouldnt go less then .5" for a nice piece of plate. You may find some casting at the scrap yard you can repurpose as well.

I haven't picked one up YET. Been eye balling the lowly Hobart Handler 125, but maybe the Handler 140. As stated before, I don't do much large work at all as this is a hobby. My day time job doesn't involve any tools but a keyboard and mouse...
I will try to poke around and see what I can find but I'm not really sure where I would begin to look for a scrap yard...
How do you guys move these sort of items? Just have a buddy or two come help? I would have to borrow a truck to transport the material for sure. I own a sedan that none of this material would be lucky enough to see unless it's small enough (and clean) to go into the trunk. ha!

I will begin by searching around for scrap yards in the Indy area.

 

[Oldbear]

The thicker the better - less warping.

Wood under metal can lead to a smoldering fire you can't see or get at.

Concrete and the heat of welding won't mix well.

Good luck

 

[machine_punk]

When I moved to my new location, I just Googled "steel supplier" along with my zip code (of course, use every variation...metal scrap, aluminum stock, steel channel, etc.) and found the dealers in my area. Also Google "metal recycling" too...I get my steel from a company who both recycles old metal, and sells new and usable cutoffs. Of course, you should keep your eyes open, when you are out and about. I suspect there are some GJ members who live in your area, who might be able to point you in the right direction.

An engine hoist is my favorite way to move heavy things...but you may be able to get away with a few friends, if you keep the table relatively small. If you go this route, make sure you buy real lifting straps (not ratcheting tie down straps), or chain, rated for the weight you are going to lift...
View media item 19702
For just starting out, you might want to try some of the pre-made tables out there. I've been thinking hard about the Strong Hand Nomad, which you can usually get for about $175, with a couple of Strong Hand clamps thrown in. This pic shows 2 Strong Hand Nomads, the the special connector plate, to make a triple-size welding table...
View media item 29238

 

[racingtadpole]

I have a sheet of 1/4" plate welded to some C section to use as a fixturing top. Works fine for everything I do with it. If I need to put a lot of heat into something then I do have to admit to trying to make use of the C section edges to help increase the depth of section Im clamping to.

 

[Jose G]

if you are thinking about the stronghand welding table... you should have a look at this video.

 

[BIG Eric]

I would get the thickest top you can afford and move (buddies come in handy for this. The thicker the top the stouter the base hast to be. If you build it right the first time then you won't regret it. Mig work with a Hobart 140 3/8 supported properly is probably thick enough. No matter how big you make it it will probably be the wrong size at one time or another. my $.02

 

[srmofo]

if you are thinking about the stronghand welding table... you should have a look at this video.

You really really need to consider that it is a light duty table meant for small work, basically a non combustible surface that you can clamp to....and the fact it costs $150 compared to the $500-$600 that the next closest table is in price. Obviously its not going to be production table and its not going to hold up to heavy handed abuse. It will however get you up off the floor so you can practice welding at a comfortable position. I use mine for TIG.

My only real issue with the Nomad is in the tilt feature. It comes with stepped washer to position the table in the predetermined holes and also any where in between. Well these stepped washers are not attached to the red handles and getting the to pop out of the holes can be frustrating. All I need is a dabb of glue to resolve the issue I just havent gotten around to it yet. I didnt have any of the assembly problems he did.

 

[paulrey27]

Alright. You guys made that easy. Metal top it is. I'm shooting for 4' x 4' top. I'm going to look around the area for scrap steel places but I know WarnerSteel (his name on here I believe) is in the area and his prices seem very reasonable.