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Welding Table spatter

outsider347

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Sep 27, 2011
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97
Location
Orchard Park NY
just finished my welding table,,3/8 plate steel top.
wondering if I could coat the top with anything to keep the spatter from sticking.
or
is there a better way than sanding/grinding the top after every proj

Thanks.
 
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Brian_B_

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May 12, 2012
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505
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North Central, AR
There are several anti spatter sprays for welding. We used to use it in the shop when we knew it would be really hard to reach an area to clean after welding.

Can't say I have tried it on a table, but it works for what we used it for.
 

Brad54

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Jun 13, 2006
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4,646
I wouldn't worry about it. If the spatter is bad, take a grinder lightly to it.
If it's not bad, and the balls are small, just pop them off with a chisel and hammer.

Half the time I don't even need the hammer--just run the chisel over the table by hand.

I've tacked things to my welding table top to hold them while hammering flanges on sheetmetal over the side, etc. etc. It's a great tool--don't be afraid of using it.

-Brad
 

ranger302

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Apr 4, 2011
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RALEIGH NC
I have a thick sheet of AL .375" I keep on the welding table until I need to tack parts to it. The "balls" and other welding slag will not stick to it very well. A quick rubdown with MEK and green Schotch Bright brings it back everytime. YMMV.
 

Jack Olsen

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I've never had an issue with spatter sticking. I occasionally use Pam kitchen spray on the actual piece I'm working on -- I've also been known to sneak into the garage to grab it while baking cookies with the kids.

I'd think if you wipe a little light oil into the table top to keep rust at bay, then your spatter issue ought to be solved.
 

lotsoftools

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Oct 22, 2011
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Inland Empire
There is also an anit-spatter spray that you could use. I've never used it, so don't know how well it works but it may be what you need.
 

EvilWelder

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New England
Spray it down with anti spatter, or just hit it with the big grinder when your done working. It is a welding bench, not a piano.
 

kald

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Mar 31, 2012
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Central Fl
Like what the other guys said, I have heard Pam works well. I use ATF/mineral spits mix. Wipe on then use a dry rag rag and wipe off. It keeps it clean and works pretty well with rust and spatter here Fl.
 
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bad_idea

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Jun 11, 2011
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Pasquotank, NC
I am very generous with the tacks to the table. Just about any project I am working on gets tacked to the table. That being said, I drag a chisel across the table for most of the bb's and the grinder gets the rest of them and the tacks too.
 

bts

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Aug 23, 2011
Messages
109
Location
Perth. Australia
If you want to protect the job or table from weld spatter a bit of the old fry pan spray-on oil is the go. A lot cheaper than anti spatter products from the welding shop.
The one down side is that it always smells like there are some bacon and eggs cooking. Always makes me hungry.

DSC08349.jpg


Build a table scrapper (think of it as a paint scrapper) . Piece of 1/4" plate cut into a triangle shape with about 3" side lenght.
Weld a 1/2"x 6" piece of rod onto one corner. Grind a 45 deg bevel on the opposite 3" side of the triangle.
Push it across the table or job, cleans of most of the balls.
For the hard ones and welding tacks dress them with the grinder.



Personlly I like a dry table. Chulk does not work well on an oily surface when you are trying to note down those current measurements rattling around in your head.

DSC08348.jpg
 
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aametalmaster

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Jun 26, 2012
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Location
Salem Ohio
I use WD 40 in a sprayer from the WD gallon can. I use it because i make ceilingtrains bridges from 3/8" sq tubing and my welding fixtures and bench are steel. So i spray down the parts and the table top before welding to keep the splatter off both parts and also keep them from rusting esp in this hot humid weather...Bob
 

Agent1320

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Aug 5, 2011
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398
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Texas
I like my table dry. After 4 years of use since it was built, I finally got around to roller painting it with some rustoleum enamel....everything but the top surface. It didn't even need any paint, I just did it because I had some leftover paint in the pan and a roller in my hand. I always hit the table top with a squirt of vinegar and give it a quick wipe down with a scotchbrite pad, then wipe it down with a rag. It always keeps the top clean, and it never really rusts unless I spill water on it or I don't wipe off my handprints. As far as the spatter goes, I just knock them off with a file or chisel.
 
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RBailey

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Jan 17, 2011
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Dubai, UAE (Arabian Gulf)
Our powder coater used to go nuts if we used cheap antispatter spray with silicone in it. It would contaminate his degrease bath and mess up the coating finish once it was backed.
 

truckaddict

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Nov 20, 2013
Messages
59
digging up an old thread here, but i'm having the same sort of problem. My welding table is always getting coated in splatter. I use a flux core, an no i'm not switching to gas mig. I modified an old table that my dad had when i built the table. I think the top is stainless. Anything mentioned in here going to help me? pam?
 

dr_clyde

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Holland, MI
Well, part of the problem is the stainless steel. The low thermal conductivity makes welding spatter stick way more than mild steel. That said, I use a thick piece of sheet metal as a scraper, or I use the end of a big *** file. I never tack stuff to my table because I hate using a grinder on my top.

If I wasn't concerned about grind marks or perfect flat or any of that jazz I'd just skim it with a 60 grit flap disc. It's perfectly fine for general fab table.
 

dr_clyde

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If you don't want spatter to stick in the first place, I use a aluminum sub plate below parts when I'm mig welding them. I do mostly TIG so spatter isn't a huge deal for me.
 

great white tj

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Apr 12, 2009
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Ocala Fl.
If you don't want spatter to stick in the first place, I use a aluminum sub plate below parts when I'm mig welding them. I do mostly TIG so spatter isn't a huge deal for me.

I have a old aluminum plate I use at times and this works great. But I only get spatter if I dont clean the area on my work piece most of the time. I have used a flap disc on the top at times. And here in Fl. I will hit the top with WD-40 about every two months.
 

truckaddict

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Nov 20, 2013
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thanks guys, now to find me some aluminum...... wife is gonna kill me if i take the siding off the house!
 

Kingcreek

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Nov 18, 2013
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Illinois
I'm another one for dry. I write on mine with chalk all the time. Layout angles, measurements and sketch designs, phone numbers etc
Grind what you can't knock off.
 

truckaddict

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Nov 20, 2013
Messages
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Richard I learned on gas we had a nice fancy miller at work. But I feel that the advantages are not worth the extra cost for my home machine.
 

bad_idea

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Pasquotank, NC
The cost of a gas tank and regulator may come in close to the cost of a sheet of aluminum! Solid core wire is about a third of the cost of flux core wire, the gas doesn't cost much. I buy a 10 lb roll of wire and fill my 80 cf tank for ~$30, the gas runs out about the same time as the wire.

Outside of upgrading your weld process, a chisel is your friend, followed close by a grinder. I don't suggest any kind of oil, could foul welds or the paint.
 

truckaddict

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Nov 20, 2013
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I have no intention to buy a sheet of aluminum, ill just keep my eyes wide open for one that someone will allow me to have. Never noticed that much of a difference between flux core and solid core up here, because if thats the case i may have to do some math and find out how much welding i need to do to buy the gas setup.
 

theknurl

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Dec 18, 2010
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SoCal
really????

go to your LWS and buy a can of "Anti-Spatter"

it contains no silicone and works perfectly:thumbup:

while you're there get a little container of "tip dip" too, then you can toss those stupid 'cup scrapers' too

i pull a shop towel through the cup and its perfectly clean:thumbup:
 

texasfiremedic

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Oct 5, 2013
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396
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Canton. TX
I'm surprised that nobody has mentioned to take your oxygen acetylene torch and produce a carbonizing flame and coat the area that the welding is going to done. The carbon will not let many of the fireflys stick. Just the big one and they can be cleaned with a chisel and a brush. After that just wipe clean. As long as you don't get into it you don't turn your cloths black. Works better than cooking spray and no special clean up.
 
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