I was wearing leather sleeves while doing some welding in my garage a couple of months ago and got them pretty sweaty. When I was done, I put them on the welding table and didn't move them for a week. When I did move them, the table had started to rust where the sleeves contacted the surface. I've steel wooled it, hosed it down with brake cleaner, wiped it down with light oil and it continues to rust. Does anyone have any suggestions on how to stop it? After I stop it, then what should I coat the surface with since it doesn't get used that often?
Welding Table Top Rusting
- Thread starter dtep
- Start date
csp
Well-known member
Boeshield, paste wax, etc.
There are lots of threads on this subject BTW
There are lots of threads on this subject BTW
astroracer
Well-known member
Get some Metal Prep from Eastwood. Use some maroon ScotchBrite and scrub the whole table top with it. It will remove any surface rust and it leaves a phosphate coating which protects the surface and stops it from flash rusting. I use it on all of my work tables, welding tables and even the lathes and mill. It doesn't leave an oily surface and doesn't impede the weld ground on my tables.
Mark
Mark
Wes J
Well-known member
Just use it. It's a welding table. Who cares?
Hit it with a 7" grinder.
Hit it with a 7" grinder.
kabinenroller
Well-known member
Try this product. It should solve the problem.
http://www.gibbsbrandlubricant.com
http://www.gibbsbrandlubricant.com
pepi
Well-known member
Just to add, use the ScotchBrite and Metal Prep on a jitterbug for the clean up.
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First hit it with some RustFree, then coat it with Boeshield. This is exactly what those products are made for.
http://boeshield.com/products/
http://boeshield.com/products/
If the table is for precise layouts that might not be an option. I've known welders who went to great plains in finding a flat piece of plate for a finishing table and then maintain the table to as nearly flat as possible. No hammering, no tacking to the table and grinding. They aren't as meticulous as to hand scrape the table for flatness but they come dang close.
That's not to say that the OP is in that situation but it's a possibility.
brianpgriset
Well-known member
Quick coat of paste wax works great for me. Usually last 4-6 months. When I see rusting I'll hit it with a 9" wire wheel and wax again and looks great.
JJThrasher
Well-known member
If it general fab table just hit it with a grinder as needed.
Flail
Well-known member
Ospho. It will turn the rust black but will be stable for months. Used some on the fender of a car in my **** pole barn 2 years ago and it has yet to re-rust.
TMcCay
Well-known member
I agree with the Ospho. It's easy to find, True Value or Ace Hardware around here and reasonably priced.
Justanoldguy
Well-known member
I second that
wimpy525
Well-known member
Wood bleach or oxalic acid will clean the rust off. Paste wax after
RobSmith
Banned
Find a "rust converter" with Phosphoric Acid in it...that product will eat the rust rather than seal over it. A wipe down with lanolin oil will seal it afterwards.
sberry
Banned
Where did you learn this?
78Bird
Well-known member
That only happens if there's still cleaner there when you weld.
After it evaporates and the air is clear, its totally gone.
On the other hand, brake cleaner is rough stuff, it removes any oily or waxy residue that might have helped prevent rust in the first place.
After it evaporates and the air is clear, its totally gone.
On the other hand, brake cleaner is rough stuff, it removes any oily or waxy residue that might have helped prevent rust in the first place.
TX63CONV
Well-known member
The phosgene risk for sure! I think it is not worth the risk even if it has evaporated. Lots of info about this.
I still see the regular brake-kleen cans next to the non-chlorinated cans here in TX.
I still see the regular brake-kleen cans next to the non-chlorinated cans here in TX.
The only place that the table is rusting is where it got my sweat on it from the sleeves. I used the brake cleaner (non-chlorinated) to try to remove whatever residue was there but it didn't seem to make a difference. It's not like that whole area is rusting, just where the sleeves touched.
It's been posted a million times in the past few years
http://www.brewracingframes.com/safety-alert-brake-cleaner--phosgene-gas.html
would you still want to risk your life at that chance? I wouldn't.
To my understanding it's chlorinated stuff yes, but they do sell non chlorinated stuff too. I have still to this day seen both on the shelf
sberry
Banned
The cleaner wont help, sand it off and put a little pen spray on and move on with it.
sberry
Banned
Its not been posted a million times there and its not a life risk. Its not from weld splatter either.
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csp
Well-known member
Partially true. It doesn't apply to non-chlorinated brake cleaner.
Stuart in MN
Well-known member
Apparently the brake cleaner didn't remove the oils from your skin, or salt, or whatever was left behind. It may be worth simply washing the table with good soap and water, then thoroughly drying it. Then, treat the table with wax or Boeshield or whatever you choose.
I jitterbug sand mine and then spray it with a muriatic solution. Hose it. Dry it and "wax" it with WD-40. It lasts and keeps it dry.
The WD is for Water Dispersant, named by the inventor(s).
Pointless garage trivia I know-my mind can hold more worthless facts than anyone I know.
The WD is for Water Dispersant, named by the inventor(s).
Pointless garage trivia I know-my mind can hold more worthless facts than anyone I know.
homebuilt burner
Well-known member
Spray it with some jb80, wd40 or splatter shield. Hit it with the wire wheel.
csp
Well-known member
Thanks for posting a knee jerk statement that wasn't entirely correct on page 1.....
metalmagpie
Well-known member
Depends on what kind of welding table you have. If you have one with a machined surface, do something about it. If it's just a piece of plate, knock the rust off with a cup-style wire wheel on an angle grinder and then wipe the whole table with boiled linseed oil and let it dry.
If your table is machined, then get hold of a random orbital sander. Put a coarse piece of sandpaper on it. Now get several grades of 3M pads. Start with the coarsest. Use some kerosene for a cutting fluid and drive the 3M pad with your random orbital sander. Do the whole table evenly. Then wipe off and repeat with finer grades. When you're done you will have a beautiful matte finish. Finish with paste wax or Boeshield, your choice. All of my tables (shaper, drill presses, horizontal band saw, welding table) get this treatment once a year or so.
metalmagpie
If your table is machined, then get hold of a random orbital sander. Put a coarse piece of sandpaper on it. Now get several grades of 3M pads. Start with the coarsest. Use some kerosene for a cutting fluid and drive the 3M pad with your random orbital sander. Do the whole table evenly. Then wipe off and repeat with finer grades. When you're done you will have a beautiful matte finish. Finish with paste wax or Boeshield, your choice. All of my tables (shaper, drill presses, horizontal band saw, welding table) get this treatment once a year or so.
metalmagpie
Fueler
Well-known member
Agreed. I use it on all my machines and tables.
Case in point. I had to have the building open and the air off for a couple of days during renovation. Major humidity then and now. Nothing flashed except an older lathe chuck I had not treated. Way cool stuff.
Of course it did, that's why it is rusting!!
Put some ATF on it and scotchbrite it clean the next day, wash it with brake clean and ATF it again and it will be good.
bagged89s10
Well-known member
Coat it with boiled linseed oil, let it sit for 10 minutes, then wipe off the access with a tag. Then let it dry.
Wes J
Well-known member
Do you guys ever do any actual work? Polishing a welding table. Now I've heard everything.
csp
Well-known member
Take care of your tools and they will take care of you.
Coolabah
Well-known member
yeh, well- some of us do precision work , some of us actually own and care for the table ( as distinct from employees who do not )... so , do I care for my stuff ? Heck YES
Do I replace rusted , abused , not cared for tools many times a year ? HECK NO !
Glad you have now heard everything
Coolabah
Well-known member
... and just for the record , some of our precision tables cost nearly $10,000. You eat your freakin" lunch on that and you WILL polish that welding table Mr "Heard everything :"... Maybe Just messin wit ya but ... well maybe not LOLmatt_i
Well-known member
I disagree with using ATF especially. Hydraulic-type oils, of which ATF is a variant, is and are very flammable. Directionally wrong for a place which sees hot sparks and or torch flames.