welding tables...

[blaze_125]

So I've seen a few welding tables setups on here and they mostly all look nice and tough and sturdy and ready for war and able to carry a rocket. I'm just a hobbyist. I don't build rockets, I don't build dump trucks, so I don't really need a table to carry the load of a dumper.

I currently have this as a workbench in the garage.

The problem with that bench is that it can really easily catch fire when welding... I found that out over the weekend. It appears the table top is some sort of compressed cardboard or something. So as soon as molten metal drops on it, it's instant fire

I can't really afford to replace the table top with a 1/2" thick metal plate. As much as I'd like to, I just can't justify the cost vs the amount of work going on it. So I was thinking I could replace the table top with 1/2" plywood, and cover it all with a 22ga steel plate.

Let me know what you think.

 

[Steve from Socal]

The short answer no. The problem with thin sheet stock over a wood core is the heat transfer. That said; you could use 14 or even 16 gauge alone as a top if you don't load the table up with too much weight.

Steve

 

[blaze_125]

The short answer no. The problem with thin sheet stock over a wood core is the heat transfer.

I'm glad I asked because I was afraid of that

I haven't looked into welding blankets, but do they reduce heat transfer at all? So let say 1/2" ply, welding blanket, 22ga sheet? Since I haven't looked into that type of blankets yet, I don't even know if it would actually be cost effective...

 

[gorilla]

I think that you would save both time and money if you had a piece of 1/4" steel plate plate sheared to fit your table top. You would have no worries about heat transfer or burn through. 1/4' plate weighs 10.2 #per square foot can't tell from the photo if you would need to reinforce your table.

 

[Professur]

If all you're looking for is fire protection, and not the ability to secure your pieces to the table, nor provide a common ground, a sheet of cement backer board would suffice. It's not a good conductor. Your sheet of 22ga over that would be more than safe enough.

 

[blaze_125]

I think that you would save both time and money if you had a piece of 1/4" steel plate plate sheared to fit your table top. You would have no worries about heat transfer or burn through. 1/4' plate weighs 10.2 #per square foot can't tell from the photo if you would need to reinforce your table.

of the top of my head, the surface is roughly 2'x4'

If all you're looking for is fire protection, and not the ability to secure your pieces to the table, nor provide a common ground,

See, that's a good point right there. It's not seen in the picture because I mounted it over the weekend, but there is now a small vise mounted on the front left corner of the table top. A common ground would be nice, but I can live without. I do every now and then, clamp stuff to the table.

 

[blaze_125]

What about a steel door?

Commercial metal door,
size is 37 1/2" x 81 1/4" by 1 3/4" thickness

I don't know anything about that type of door, so I don't know what makes the 1 3/4" thickness, and I don't know how thick the metal layer is.

 

[gorilla]

Metal doors are often filled with a cardboard like material, I have had to weld new hinges on them a few times and set the cardboard on fire, I don't know if this is true for all metal doors. I checked the local price for 1/4" plate 2'x4' $68.00 FYI. Do it rite the first time and you only have to do it once.

 

[Jack Olsen]

The problem I see with that work surface doesn't have anything to do with the presence or thickness of steel on top of it. Lots of people weld on a wooden bench -- which I wouldn't encourage. But they do it just fine.

My concern is with everything that's going to get sprayed with slag and grinding debris if you do any work there. You've got flammables up above, a nice painted tool box to the right, and then shelves with stuff on them on the other side. All of that is going to get burn marks on it, sooner or later. At least, it would if I were welding there.

In your shoes, I'd find a part of the garage (or driveway) where you have a few feet of space for the sparks/slag/etc to land without messing your other stuff up.

 

[larry4406]

I plan on using a 90 minute metal fire door, welding outside of course.

 

[blaze_125]

My concern is with everything that's going to get sprayed with slag and grinding debris if you do any work there. You've got flammables up above, a nice painted tool box to the right, and then shelves with stuff on them on the other side. All of that is going to get burn marks on it, sooner or later. At least, it would if I were welding there.

Those are valid points as well.
The shelves on the left are for sure going. I'm just waiting for some decent temperatures to put up the backyard shed.

The flamables on top, have also been a great concern lately. I think it might be a good idea to either extend the "guard" that in front, or move them to a completely new location.

The tool box... I had no clue the factory paint on it could actually be a threat and I'm greatful you pointed that out

Having said that... With the shelves out of the way, I guess it'd be a good idea to extend the workbench from the tool box all the way to the left side wall and keep the left portion of the bench for welding/grinding.

I checked the local price for 1/4" plate 2'x4' $68.00 FYI.

Where are you located?
I'm near Ottawa, Ontario in Canada and I think there is only one steel supplier in town... Cohen or something like that, aside from HomeDepot who sells tiny peices.

 

[R6 Racer]

I'm in Canada also, priced a piece of 1/4" plate 2'x6'(apx) @ $130.00

You can try these guys

http://www.metalsupermarkets.com/MSC-storefinder.aspx?map=ONTARIO&Region=ON&City=Ottawa

Metal Supermarkets
Ottawa
(613) 248-1444
2413 Stevenage Dr. Unit 6
Ottawa, ON K1G 3W1

Good luck

Steve

 

[rsanter]

where are you?
I have some sheets of 16ga I could make you a deal on.
you could cut a sheet and put 2-3 layers to make a thicker top

bob

 

[Professur]

Ottawa, head to princess auto or tractor supply. They should be able to help you out. I know PA has tube, channel and angle iron. Plate may be a special order, but it shouldn't be impossible.

 

[Az Scooter]

I have a sheet of ten gauge on top of a 5/8" particle board and so far have not had any problems. You have to remember that it is heat transfer to the wood, so that it is not nearly as intense as if you were welding directly on the wood. That, and that no oxygen is getting to the wood, with the sheet of steel on top.

 

[gorilla]

I'm in California, I thought that price was on the high side. The nice thing about a steel table top is that you are always grounded and you can clean the top off with a few passes with a sander. I agree with Jack Olsen that welding is best done outside if possible and that all flammables should be kept away from the welding process.

 

[blaze_125]

I just priced a plate for my application and it's in the 200$ range(3'x6'x.25"). That's quite more than I'm willing to fork out for what is currently just a hobby.

Don't flame me here since I'm just brainstorming my options... but... eh... what about a concrete table top? Here's my thinking lol...

With the shelves out of the way I'll have approx. 6' wide to play with. I have to keep the same depth because... you know... my garage ain't getting any longer any time soon. So I'm looking at a aprox. 6'x2' table top.

Lay 1 sheet of 3/4 ply.
The edges of the ply would be bolted down to 2" angle iron. With 2" iron, that leaves me 1.25" depth to pour some concrete.
Now I wouldn't pour the whole table surface. 3' wide is more than enough for my usual welding, so I'd pour a 2'x3'x1.25" slate on top of the 3/4" ply. The other half of the table would laminated plywood flush with the angle iron.

So far, I have only 1 concern with the concrete; hamering.
I wouldn't want chunks of concrete flying everywhere if I were to bang the hell out of something sitting on it. As I said earlier, a common ground would be nice but I can live without.

 

[blaze_125]

That said; you could use 14 or even 16 gauge alone as a top if you don't load the table up with too much weight.

you could cut a sheet and put 2-3 layers to make a thicker top

I just priced 2 sheets of 11ga(cold rolled) in size of 2'x3' and it's about 85$.
According to info I found online, 11ga is 0.12". So if I was to stack 2 sheets I'd get 0.24" thick. Smarter than the concrete idea?

Edit #?
Scratch all that... The concrete, the stacking and all.
I'm just all over the place in my head, pricing stuff left/right/center and pricing for different sizes and then I try to do the math and I get all confused because I'm basically comparing apples and bananas.

The first quote I got for a steel plate was from someone behind a desk at MetalSupermarket. He priced me a 3'x6'x0.25 Hot Rolled plate for over 200$ To add even more to the confusion, if I price the same product on the website, it comes out 30$ cheaper

During the process of this thread I was able to identify my actual welding area size at 2'x3'. A plate of hot rolled 2'x3'x0.25" is 65$ according to their website and that's within reach and I won't have to sleep on the couch

 

[blaze_125]

So here's the idea on a 2' x 6' workbench.

left side would be the 0.25" steel plate stacked on 1 layer of 1/2" ply + 1/4" ply to achieve a final thickness of 1"

right hand side would 1/2" ply stacked on another 1\2" ply to achieve a final thickness of 1"

Hopefuly everything would line up and I'd end up with a flat table

 

[s_ontario]

how about using firebrick 2x2" angle iron frame and filled /fitted with firebricks concrete will pop at you all the time from the heat

 

[blaze_125]

how about using firebrick 2x2" angle iron frame and filled /fitted with firebricks concrete will pop at you all the time from the heat

I sourced a steel plate that fits my wallet, so my crazy concrete idea went down the drain.

But now I'm facing a new dilema. Where do I mount my vise?
If I mount it on the far left of the table, its usage will be very limited.
In the center? N f'ing way
On the far right? Then I'm back to square one where I'd be welding over wood.

Maybe a hitch receiver... or 3 for that matter... 1 per location mentioned above.

Idealy I'd move the tool chest over to the left of the garage, but I use the chest more often than I use the workbench and having it on the left side would make it a pain in the **** to reach when there's a car parked inside...

 

[s_ontario]

for me a vise should be mounted on a none movable bench my Reed has been in the same location since 1978 but depends what you use it for iguess

get a 36" long 1/4 wall square tube weld plate top and bottom and bolt your vise to the floor

 

[Amitygravel]

Get two folding steel sawhorses (not the thin sheet metal type). Whatever you use for a top be it just a piece of steel or plywood with firebrick on top of that , its easily moved to anywhere in or out of the shop.

 

[blaze_125]

It seems like it's workbench season right, threads are popping up left right and center lately.

Anyhow... I spent part of the weekend thinking about my project and I came up with this for a final draft.

6' wide, 2' deep
2.5' wood surface on the sides, and 3' metal surface in the center for welding.

The top frame is already assembled, and the first layer of 3/4" plywood is getting cut and screwed on tonight.

 

[evintho]

Keep an eye on craigslist. I got my small 2' x 3' table along with a ton of steel for $50. I see welding tables on there all the time.

http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=61027

 

[blaze_125]

Keep an eye on craigslist. I got my small 2' x 3' table along with a ton of steel for $50. I see welding tables on there all the time.

http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=61027

Pretty good deal you got there
Unfortunatly, I live north of the border... For some reason it appears canadians are either stingy or flat out rip offs. I browse the local selling/buying websites everyday hoping I'd find a good score and I'm still looking