Welding tips, can't see the puddle

[Flyboy101]

Hello out there. A newbie in welding, kinda getting better. The problem I have is I can't see the weld puddle really well.

Tig is easier since it is brighter and less things going on, but Mig is about impossible to see where I am going.

I use a Lincoln auto darkening helmet (usually 12 or 13 on Tig, ?? on Mig) , have added a work light on the projects, still not great. Mig is a guess. Doesn't make for great welds, obviously...

I use readers and a cheater inside helmet (in my 40's), which helps a bit, but it is the brightness or lack there of it that is hindering me.

Anyone have any tips? What shade level can I go down to before it becomes unsafe? Have become a bit light sensitive in my old age and am a photographer for a living so eye safety is no joke for me.
Thanks

 

[DHS]

I don not have an answer for you but understand how much harder it is to weld when you have to dark a shade and can not see. Do you have a local welding supply place? If so they could help you pick a shade light enough to see but still be safe.

 

[welder4956]

The chart on the last page of this link should help:

http://www.aws.org/technical/facts/FACT-31.pdf

For mig (GMAW) in the range og 60-160 amps, which is where you are with a home machine, a minimum of #10 should be used. The recommended shade is #11. It definitely sounds like you need a lighter shade of lens.

 

[Tribalvision]

with a Mig, if I'm welding light stuff (14G) I go down to 9. If I'm welding thicker material, I'll move up to 10. I tried doing light work on 10, but it's still a tad dark.

 

[Flyboy101]

Thanks for replies. Have tried a 10 with Mig but I seem to get a bit of light lasting or blind spots, kinda like if you look into a bright light or something.

Thanks for that chart too. Will give them a try.

 

[Murphy4570]

I run #12 shade on MIG myself, have no problems seeing the puddle, even when I'm using flux-core.

 

[dwp99]

Hello out there. A newbie in welding, kinda getting better. The problem I have is I can't see the weld puddle really well.

Tig is easier since it is brighter and less things going on, but Mig is about impossible to see where I am going.

I use a Lincoln auto darkening helmet (usually 12 or 13 on Tig, ?? on Mig) , have added a work light on the projects, still not great. Mig is a guess. Doesn't make for great welds, obviously...

I use readers and a cheater inside helmet (in my 40's), which helps a bit, but it is the brightness or lack there of it that is hindering me.

Anyone have any tips? What shade level can I go down to before it becomes unsafe? Have become a bit light sensitive in my old age and am a photographer for a living so eye safety is no joke for me.
Thanks

Try welding without the readers. You're getting a reflection off of the readers back to the lens and back to your eyes. You're probably seeing 2 or 3 puddles. When I went back to welding after turning 50 I couldn't see a thing. I tried wearing readers while welding and saw 2 puddles. I then switched to cheater lens behind the filter and went from a 13 shade to a 10 shade. Made all the difference in the world. I also use a gold lens.

 

[Hockeyman]

I welded for 30 years,most of the time i used a 9 or 10 lens. I started using a cheater lens almost as soon as i started,it seems like when i turned 40 i needed glasses all of a sudden. If you can try several shades ,don't be afraid to try for a little while. The shades in different hoods may be different from each other. I know that different brands of dark lens make the puddle look different,try another hood and dark lens.Maybe borrow one, or three to try out, you may find one that you can see clearly. Sam

 

[RECox286]

I've always used a 10 or 12, with stick welding, and never had problems seeing.

However, if you don't get enough light, FWIW, you may want to try using a

500W work light over the workpiece.

Uncle Bob

 

[Ozwelder]

Its just a normal part of aging which can be solved a couple of ways.

Rather than go the expensive way and get a special pair through the optometrist, I would go to the chemist shop ( drugstore ,in your country I believe) to the reading glasses tree and find a set that a suitable to read at a focal length of about 350mm (14").

The other alternative is to get a diopter lens to fit in the helmet between the filter lens and inside cover lens, to the same power as the reading glasses. The glasses sizes (power) run between something like 1,2, 2.5 . 3.00 and 3.5.

Make sure the lenses are all really clean of smears from grease and oil as that can cause funny vision.

I run 3.5 power and can see the weld pool pretty well( at this stage anyway, I'm 62 this year.)

Ozwelder

 

[Flyboy101]

Thank you again for all the input.

Have tried the 500 watt work light already, helped but still not great with mig. Will try backing down the shade and hope not to see that light spots afterwards.

Already have the cheater lens inside the hood. Couldn't see without it right now as my eyes also almost changed overnight at 40. Funny how that happens...well not so funny actually...

Thanks

 

[jhn9840]

Try using a Gold lens. Made a big difference for me.

jhn9840
John

 

[Flyboy101]

Thanks didn't know they existed, will give it a try.

 

[Imcrazy]

Try using a Gold lens. Made a big difference for me.

jhn9840
John

got a link, I've never seen them either?

 

[Journaler]

oops

 

[McFarmer]

I assume you are welding forehand ? If you are near sighted as I am, I just look over the top of my glasses. Is the auto dark lens adjustable ? If so I would go down to a shade 10 with mig.

 

[steel 35]

I use the gold lense as well, use to be shade 12 now its 10 & indeed it started getting harder at 40 but wait till your 50. No lighting behind, no glasses on; and sometimes the bright light on the subject. Will try moving the mag lense cause I use that to.

 

[jhn9840]

I use the gold lense as well, use to be shade 12 now its 10 & indeed it started getting harder at 40 but wait till your 50. No lighting behind, no glasses on; and sometimes the bright light on the subject. Will try moving the mag lense cause I use that to.

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[jhn9840]

I bought mine at the local welding supply. Just tell them what you want a gold lens.


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[Zeke]

You can tell a gold lens because it's coated and looks like those mirrored sunglasses. In gold. Reflects some rays altogether leaving your eyes to deal with less of the spectrum. Supposed to filter or reflect more UV.

 

[Flyboy101]

Found the gold shade at my local welding supply today. They only worked with fixed shade helmets. At least that is what airgas had.

Has anyone found one that might go over an auto adjust helmet. Assuming they only really work when replacing a fixed normal shade. Figured I would throw it out there anyway.

Have an old fixed shade somewhere in my garage will go back next week and try out the gold shade.

They also said they scratch easily and once they scratch your protection goes down, incase anyone has them or is thinking about getting one.

 

[Zeke]

I guess we should have told you that the gold shade was not an autodark. AFA scratching, you should always use a clear plastic protector over the shaded lens. This is not just to protect the lens, but also to protect your eyes in the event of an accident. Everyone uses the same plastic lens on the inside as well. This is for your personal protection but also to protect the inside of the glass. A lot of time you will be grinding with the helmet up. Sparks can fly over your head and burn the lens. Shouldn't be doing that, but it does happen.

 

[Flyboy101]

No problem, just glad to find out. At least I know about it now, looking forward to trying it out.

 

[justanengineer]

For light to moderate welding I use a #9 and occasionally a magnifier inside the hood. For heavy (structural) welding I use a #10, but admittedly have had several friends comment that my eyes arent as sensitive as theirs.

 

[danski0224]

There is a difference between the auto darkening hoods out there.

Yes, the cheapie ones work, but the LCD quality and optics are not the same. I would head over to a welding supply store and check out different hoods. I have a Miller Digital Elite and the difference was like night and day.

You may also be getting a lot of reflected light in your hood from openings at the sides, top and back. Try taking an extra welding jacket or natural fiber cloth (or leather) and cover your head with it to see if there is a difference. Do NOT use synthetic cloth for this because it will melt into your skin if hot metal bits touch it.

The extra light makes your pupils smaller, making it hard to see through a proper shade.

 

[Flyboy101]

All great info, thanks!

 

[garydog]

Hello people... I am a newbie here... but am not new to welding. It is quite obvious that the number 12 is too dark for you. If you can't see the puddle, you won't be able to see the line or the 2 pieces of steel that you are welding. I used a #11 most of the time. I would stay away from a 10 for mig welding. Maybe you actually need to move closer to what you are welding. As you get better at watching your weld, and you will, you will find that you can move back and still see what is going on. Also wear a dark colored shirt. Maybe you are getting light reflection off of your shirt and this is creating light behind the lense. When you are welding, you will see better if it is dark on your side.

 

[crewchief888]

i use anywhere from 9-11 running mig on my miller prohobby hood.

anywhere from 70a to 200a i'm good to go

when i was still using a fixed shade all the time i ran a gold 12, sometimes a 14.

much heavier welding 250a -300a

 

[BD1]

Does it make a difference if you weld outside or inside ?? Direct sunlight ?? Sometimes inside, you can get a reflection from material in the area that will affect what you see out of hood. This is common when duct work is in the area.