welding top

[webbs2jzgte]

So I am building a new welding table so I can make up some stuff for some projects I and some buddys have going on. I was wondering if 1045 hot rolled 1/4" steel would be thick enough? And is their anything you can coat it with to prevent rusting that wont burn up if weld slag falls on it

 

[Chaz]

I'd go thicker than quarter. Half inch is about right in my estimation. you can weld stops and jigs to it without warpage, and just grind em off when you're done. You'll forget about the extra cost in a year or two.
I wouldn't coat the top with anything. Its nice to attach your welder ground to the top and just work away!

 

[Jackfre]

1/4", while not optimum, is fine if you support it well. You can paint it I guess, but for a welding table, I'm tacking work to it all the time and then grinding it off and re-surfacing with a grinder. Welding table tops are kinda consumable. I'd just leave it and when I can't stand the rust I take the wire cup wheel to it. Brings it right back up.

 

[Kevin54]

Is the hot rolled plate already surfaced, as in blanchard ground, or is it a big plate with a lot of scale on it? If it has a lot of scale, chances are it's not real flat.

 

[darkk]

Go 1/2" thick and just lightly wipe some break free, crc or anything used for stuck nuts and bolts if you must.

 

[Larwyn]

1/2" or thicker is better but my own welding table top is only 1/8" thick. It is less than flat, unfinished, will rust if it sits idle too long but I generally use it enough to keep the rust worn off of it. Despite all the drawbacks it is extremely useable and useful, sure beats using the floor instead. I just used what I had in the scrap pile to build the table which was intended to be temporary. It has been in "temporary" use now for about 5 years.

 

[webbs2jzgte]

thanks guys. Just trying to find half inch plate thats not a fortune. You know how awesome college budgets are while building a car. Looks like half inch steel will do the job. And the dowels for jigs sounds good. A buddy wants me to weld up a couple things for his small (5 or 6) rally subarus so I can earn some extra cash.

Again thanks GJ members for coming through

 

[Steve from Socal]

You could look for some 3/8 hot rolled as well, hot rolled is dimensionally more stable than cold rolled. If the plate has a lot of mill scale you can pickle it with acid. Once it is done use wax or oil to keep the top shinny. The smaller the table the important the thickness.

Steve

 

[A**holes Garage]

3/8" thick plate is more affordable, functional and more manageable if it's going to be a portable bench on casters. Good enough for the heavy hobbyist. 1/2" plus gets pricey, and more for heavy duty welding, fabrication IMO.

I have 3 welding, work tables with 3/8" plate. I managed to get them all fairly level without much problems and they work just fine for my fabrication projects.

 

[Riverside]

My welding table has a 1/4" top. I tacked angle around the edges to reinforce it. It has been fine for me (for five years or so). The top is about 2 1/2' x 4' and it is on wheels. It is heavy enough to sit still, but light enough to push around. All of the materials came from the scrap yard.

 

[Zeke]

My table is 1/4" and not dead on flat but I can shim if I need to while welding up a critical part (which is almost never). I have a lot of levels.

 

[little d]

I salvaged an old floor grate, if ya can find one they work great.

 

[Blackie94Gt]

Call a local steel warehouse and get A36 plate burned to your size. It doesn't matter if it has mill scale on it, mill scale is not going to effect anything. Rust is not going to be an issue either. Just hit it with a grinder or wire wheel if you want to keep surface rust off. Depending on how much welding you're doing and the thickness / weight of materials your working with 1/4" may be a little thin. I would go 3/8" or 1/2" depending on size of the table. Steel is 10.21 lbs / sq ft for 1/4" so 1/2" is 20.42 lbs/sq ft. Currently we pay $0.75 to $0.80 / lb for cut to size plate. Bars and sheets are less.

Our welding tables at work are 1 1/4" x 96" x 240" - over 8,000 lbs each.

 

[mtnwalton]

I'd go thicker than quarter. Half inch is about right in my estimation. you can weld stops and jigs to it without warpage, and just grind em off when you're done. You'll forget about the extra cost in a year or two.
I wouldn't coat the top with anything. Its nice to attach your welder ground to the top and just work away!

Agree; for occasional use 1/2" would be great. You won't regret the cost later.

 

[NUTTSGT]

I just replaced the top on my portable table with some 1/4". I've done some welding on it and it has been fine so far. Keep in mind though, my table is small, 2'x3' and does have some cross pieces under it.

One day in the future, it will get replaced by something heavier (regular/permanent table) with a thicker top.

 

[rubberrodder]

For the little tiny stuff I usually do, my welding table is a piece of hardy backer concrete tile backer board laid on top of my steel tool cart. Concrete with fiberglass reinforcement. Its been durable and fire proof for 2 years. But like I said, I just do little small projects on it and it keeps me from burning up my work bench.

 

[HvyEquipMech]

I agree with almost everyone else as far as your thickness. In my experience the weld table ends up being where most the beating and pounding takes place as well as tacking your projects and grinding your welds down. 1/2" is the optimal plate to use however I have used floor grate as well and it worked very well and allowed dust and slag to fall to the floor for the most part. Good luck with the projects my best days at work are usually days when I'm under my hood.

 

[01ssreda4]

I got some like 14/16 gauge galvanized sheets for free and wanted to make a live welding table. I stacked 3 of them together and attached it all with angle iron and I have been using it for 5+ years. No rust either and its done its time outside for a portion of time. Something to think about if you are on a budget.

 

[atotalnincompoop]

does anyone have any idea of pricing for 1/4, 3/8, and 1/2" per sq. ft.?

 

[Mike007]

does anyone have any idea of pricing for 1/4, 3/8, and 1/2" per sq. ft.?

I jusy bought a 3' x 5' x 1/2" plate for $230. To the O.P., I would go with 1/2" if you can swing it. Think about this, you may have it for the rest of your life. Build it once.

 

[Falcon67]

I got some like 14/16 gauge galvanized sheets for free and wanted to make a live welding table. I stacked 3 of them together and attached it all with angle iron and I have been using it for 5+ years. No rust either and its done its time outside for a portion of time. Something to think about if you are on a budget.

You weld on Galvanized and it hasn't made you sick yet? It's not going to hurt, but I could do without the felling puke factor.

"When zinc vapor mixes with the oxygen in the air, it reacts instantly to become zinc oxide. This is the same white powder
that you see on some noses at the beach and the slopes. Zinc oxide is non-toxic and non carcinogenic. Extensive research1
into the effects of zinc oxide fumes has been done, and although breathing those fumes will cause welders to think that they
have the flu in a bad way, there are no long-term health effects. Zinc oxide that is inhaled is simply absorbed and eliminated
by the body without complications or chronic effects. Current research2 on zinc oxide fumes is concentrated in establishing
the mechanism by which zinc oxide causes "metal fume fever," how its effects are self-limiting and why zinc oxide fume
effects ameliorate after the first day of exposure even though the welder may continue to be exposed to zinc during subsequent
days ("Monday-morning fever"). Other research3 is being done using zinc oxide fumes together with various drugs which
results in a synergetic effect for treatment of cancer and AIDS. Another area of research is use of zinc compounds as the active
ingredients in throat lozengers that are recognized as significantly effective in reducing the duration and intensity of the
common cold.
Typical “metal fume fever” begins about 4 hours after exposure, and full recovery occurs within 48 hours. The symptoms
include fever, chills, thirst, headache and nausea. All of these symptoms, pain and suffering, as well as lost work (and play)
time, can be avoided entirely by simply not inhaling the zinc oxide fumes. This can easily be done using any of the
methods described later.
Unlike other heavy metals, such as copper, lead and mercury, zinc is an essential micro nutrient. Zinc is essential to the
proper growth of plants and animals. Zinc forms part of the enzyme system that regulates biological processes throughout the
body. As shown on any multi-vitamin/mineral bottle, the recommended minimum adult intake is 15 mg/day."

 

[genesis]

Go big or go home.

1" thick 4'X8"

On the other hand...I have a bench with a 1/4" top that works great, just make sure you dont beat on it.