well a storm went threw

[KnurledNut]

@safnd2021
Full second story?
I dont know what kind of snow loads you get there, but double check with someone experienced that your headers are big enough.
I mentioned this in a previous post.
Im looking at 9' openings. I think they might be borderline if those are 3-2x10.
I typically reference a chart like this that will provide a baseline:
http://www.southernpine.com/app/uploads/SS_7-12L.pdf
At this point, without tearing anything out, you could run LVLs across the front wall (being sure to span the openings solid) instead of rimboard, and gain better load capacity.

Are you gonna have an interior wall under those TJI's?
I cant quite tell by the picture the size of them (14"?), but if you are free spanning that 30', those joists needed to be at min. 16" [email protected].

You might also look into web stiffeners on the TJI ends. While not always necessary, i would probably run them on this building.

Hope this helps.

 

[safnd2021]

@safnd2021
Full second story?
I dont know what kind of snow loads you get there, but double check with someone experienced that your headers are big enough.
I mentioned this in a previous post.
Im looking at 9' openings. I think they might be borderline if those are 3-2x10.
I typically reference a chart like this that will provide a baseline:
http://www.southernpine.com/app/uploads/SS_7-12L.pdf
At this point, without tearing anything out, you could run LVLs across the front wall (being sure to span the openings solid) instead of rimboard, and gain better load capacity.

Are you gonna have an interior wall under those TJI's?
I cant quite tell by the picture the size of them (14"?), but if you are free spanning that 30', those joists needed to be at min. 16" [email protected].

You might also look into web stiffeners on the TJI ends. While not always necessary, i would probably run them on this building.

Hope this helps.

The headers are 3 2x10s like you mentioned.
I looked at the span rate of the I joists and they are 14" 60 series I believe just shy of spanning the full 30' @16" oc so I'm going to put a interior wall to help support them

 

[safnd2021]

And not a full second story with the angle of the rafters I lose 4' on each side so the second story will be 22x45

 

[Daniel Dudley]

I would place some anchors into the concrete floor and bring the bracing inside. Plumb up the two corners. Run a string along the top of the wall, spaced out 1-1/2" from the corners. Using a scrap piece of 2x between the string and the top of the wall, add braces from the concrete floor to the upper part of the wall to plumb the wall.

What he said. I use 1/4"x2 3/4'' Tapcons to screw 2x plates into the concrete and brace off of those. Use four per plate, and make the plates about 30 inches long. Much more secure than stakes. Once you get the second top plate in, put a 10 foot 2x4 diagonal across the tops of the corners to help hold it square.

Stuff like this feels demoralizing. If you have a buddy or two, now would be the time to call them for a little assistance. Once you get to the roof, this will be crucial. You want to get that up and sheathed. Sometimes it is better to use the buddy system, even if you have to call in a favor or pass out some cash. It is totally OK to ask for help, and I would take this as a sign that maybe you should.

Use your gut, but I would suggest you bang it out now, and maybe do the roofing on your own when the structure is solid and you can take your time. I have helped people and I have been helped. The hardest part for me is picking up the phone. Men were bred to hunt mastodons and big game as a team. That's a pretty big elephant you have there. Coordinate an attack and nail it down.

 

[safnd2021]

Got a guy to lull up the subfloor for me. ($200 and a case of beer lol) This weekend there's not gonna be any wind so I'm gonna tackle this and get it knocked out asap

 

[NUTTSGT]

Best of luck getting that floor done this weekend.

 

[mike93lx]

Git r done! Be careful up there

 

[ddawg16]

3/4"? Not T&G?

T&G would have saved having to use clips....but, clips are better than nothing.

If you want it to not squeak, put down a bead of construction glue on top of the joist.

Be sure to stagger the rows. On your next row, cut 4' off one sheet. That way the seam ends up in the middle of the adjacent board. The 4' you cut off goes on the end.

Because you're remote, I'm assuming you're using screws? I initially nailed mine and got a few nail pops...I went back and added a bunch of screws. That night took a lot of beers to get it done.


This project is making me relive my garage build and the 2-story addition to my house.

Except on my house, I used 1-1/8" T&G. Those ******* were heavy.
Those on top of 2x12's 12" OC? My upstairs is rock solid.

 

[rcbk00]

I'm curious why you're using clips on the plywood floor. The only time I use them is on roof sheathing. If you want to unify adjacent rows of plywood (that aren't tongue and groove) you can just screw pieces of blocking to the bottom of the outside edge of the row you're installing. Put half the width of the blocking under the first row of plywood. The other half will go under your second row of plywood. The blocking does not have to be attached to the joists, just the floor (screw through the floor into the blocking). It'll add work to the job, but you'll have a smooth floor when you're done.

 

[safnd2021]

I just had the clips so I'm using them it's just 5/8 plywood then I'm going to put 5/8 I think it's called corkboard down and screw it in as well to stiffen up the floor

 

[safnd2021]

3/4"? Not T&G?

T&G would have saved having to use clips....but, clips are better than nothing.

If you want it to not squeak, put down a bead of construction glue on top of the joist.

Be sure to stagger the rows. On your next row, cut 4' off one sheet. That way the seam ends up in the middle of the adjacent board. The 4' you cut off goes on the end.

Because you're remote, I'm assuming you're using screws? I initially nailed mine and got a few nail pops...I went back and added a bunch of screws. That night took a lot of beers to get it done.


This project is making me relive my garage build and the 2-story addition to my house.

Except on my house, I used 1-1/8" T&G. Those ******* were heavy.
Those on top of 2x12's 12" OC? My upstairs is rock solid.

Glueing and screwing every 6" I'm going through a ton of screws lol just 5/8 subfloor then I'm going to put 5/8 I think it's called corkboard down to stiffen everything up. It's the way they used to do floors in my area but they switched to 3/4 t and g a few years ago

 

[KnurledNut]

I just had the clips so I'm using them it's just 5/8 plywood then I'm going to put 5/8 I think it's called corkboard down and screw it in as well to stiffen up the floor

The clips are not designed for subfloor use. They might lead to squeaks. Id eliminate them.
It would be good to space the edge joints like 1/8". An 8d nail works good for this. Just tack it in the joist at a couple spots per sheet and bump against them.
It looks like you have 19/32 flooring, which is fine for what you plan to do. It is rated for up to 20" o.c. (That's the 40/20 stamp.)
If you are doing a second layer using underlayment as you mentioned, there is no need for edge blocking. (If it was subfloor only, then wood blocking would be good. It can always be added later if desired.) But you do need to offset the edge joints and end joints of the underlayment. Ill attach a diagram from APA.
Did you nail or screw the TJIs to the plate? IF nailed, add some form of construction screw for good measure. Like a GRK RSS or HeadLOK. 5 or 6". Just one per joist. It will provide extra hold down.




Things look good. Keep it as dry as possible.

 

[safnd2021]

The clips are not designed for subfloor use. They might lead to squeaks. Id eliminate them.
It would be good to space the edge joints like 1/8". An 8d nail works good for this. Just tack it in the joist at a couple spots per sheet and bump against them.
It looks like you have 19/32 flooring, which is fine for what you plan to do. It is rated for up to 20" o.c. (That's the 40/20 stamp.)
If you are doing a second layer using underlayment as you mentioned, there is no need for edge blocking. (If it was subfloor only, then wood blocking would be good. It can always be added later if desired.) But you do need to offset the edge joints and end joints of the underlayment. Ill attach a diagram from APA.
Did you nail or screw the TJIs to the plate? IF nailed, add some form of construction screw for good measure. Like a GRK RSS or HeadLOK. 5 or 6". Just one per joist. It will provide extra hold down.




Things look good. Keep it as dry as possible.

I just nailed them but I am on my way to the store and I'll pick up some screws like you mentioned it's never a bad idea to have extra hold down strength! Thank you for all your help I appreciate the diagram for the floor that helps a lot!

 

[Keep]

What size are your I-joists and how wide is the span?

I am looking at a 28 foot span and have read different sizes needed....I do not want any posts in my build!

 

[KnurledNut]

I just nailed them but I am on my way to the store and I'll pick up some screws like you mentioned it's never a bad idea to have extra hold down strength! Thank you for all your help I appreciate the diagram for the floor that helps a lot!

Just to confirm something, you run your underlayment after you are dried in from the elements, roof on and windows in.
The walls will give you the offset in the edge joints as pictured above.
This is pretty obvious, but just making sure you know this.

 

[ddawg16]

^^that^^

You woulf be shocked at how much it changes after you dry it in.

 

[safnd2021]

Getting there only have 2 and a half rows to go. Today was a warm one 86° but it's almost finished

 

[LXCam]

Just a question saf, why are all those sheets so weathered looking?. Just wondering.

 

[safnd2021]

Just a question saf, why are all those sheets so weathered looking?. Just wondering.

They were tarped but a few must have gotten some water on it they were sitting in the field for a few months while I waited for the concrete guys too come out

 

[KnurledNut]

Getting there only have 2 and a half rows to go. Today was a warm one 86° but it's almost finished

Im proud of what you have accomplished.
Glad you didnt give up.

 

[safnd2021]

Im proud of what you have accomplished.
Glad you didnt give up.

thank you !

 

[ddawg16]

How long before you get your roof up?