Well pump folks...troubleshooting well?

[Jason280]

Any well experts here? Trying to help the FIL troubleshoot a well issue that we haven't been able to figure out. He's had the house for just over a year, and has never had any issues until today....suddenly lost all water pressure. Pressure gauge at the tank read zero, so we began checking the normal stuff. Breaker checked out, so we checked the pressure switch (Square D Pumptrol) at the tank. Contacts were closed, and I was getting 240v across the terminals. Went ahead and sanded the contacts anyway, and they remained closed. Went out to the well casing/pipe, pulled the cover, and checked the connections going to the submersed pump....still getting 240v (with plenty of water in the well).

Throughout testing, we did get a couple episodes of the tank pumping up to 15psi, but it would never get any higher. Water would run for a few minutes, and tank wouldn't pump back up. However, it occasionally just seemed to start up, but still wouldn't go over 15psi. It doesn't have an externally mounted start capacitor, so it must be inside with the pump.

Any suggestions on how to proceed?

 

[Jimmy_B]

Sounds like you probably need a new pump. I just had mine replaced last month. It still pumped, but was very weak and couldn't reach the shut off pressure. It lasted 18 years.

I have no clue what you do next. Good luck though.

 

[larry_g]

Sometimes you have to check the amps draw. If your sending 240v down the hole but it is drawing no or the wrong amps then you know the problem. If drawing no amps the circuit is open, if the reading is low then your dry or the pump is not pumping indication a problem. High amps then bad bearings or something. If you know the HP of the pump then you can find the running amps of it.


lg
no neat sig line

 

[JRC3]

How deep is the well?

Can you see if the pitless adapter is leaking?

What kink of pipe is it down the hole?

Drop pipe could be split. Just because you can't see or hear a leak, it could be below the waterline.

Do you have any type of constant pressure or cycle stop valve installed?

 

[Captain Spaulding]

Split pipe in the well, bad pump, clogged screen...

 

[JRC3]

This thread is long, but it might be what you're looking for. It is the process to figure out your symptoms. Ignore the talk about a CSV...In the end it was a split black poly drop pipe. https://terrylove.com/forums/index.php?threads/2-vs-3-wire-well-pump.69419/page-4

Also, this is the same thread, look for a fitting like this as it also could be a problem:
https://terrylove.com/forums/index.php?threads/2-vs-3-wire-well-pump.69419/page-3#post-515787

 

[pstnbly]

Check the pump control, it may need a capacitor.

 

[ard]

It doesn't have an externally mounted start capacitor, so it must be inside with the pump.

Really??? So wire go from breaker to SqD pumptrol then right down the well???? (With maybe a disconnect at the well head)

??

 

[HunterDan]

^^ Correct. Mine runs from my breaker, over to my pressure switch, then runs out to my well along with the poly pipe, then at the well head, it runs all the way down to the pump, taped to the poly pipe every 10' or so.

My pump just went up back in January. Girlfriend was inside cleaning, and the water all stopped. She came out and got me, I checked the tank, 0 pressure. Checked the pressure switch, and checked for voltage at the we'll head, and all was good. Luckily I have good friends who were willing to come help me pull it the 400' up. We used a hillbilly rigged dirt bike wheel on a frame that fits over the well casing, and used my tractor to slowly pull everything up, over the rolling wheel out onto the lawn.

Just below the splices at the pump, 2 of the 3 wires were rubbed and broken apart, with the third not far behind. So the pump may have still been good, but being 13 years old, and with it already out, I replaced it. About 6 gallons of bleach down into the well, Secured everything good and slowly fed it back down. Took about a week for the water to clear up, but knock on wood so far so good!

Cost me a pump (500ish if I recall?), 2 pizzas and a case of bud light....the local well company gave me a quote of 3250, over the phone. He told me it could be more depending on "conditions" when they arrive.


It's a simple job and If you have a shallow well, it's feasible to pull by hand (easier with 2 people, cuz once you start you can't stop). All you need to do at the pump is cut the old splices out, attach your new pump, make 3 new splices, shrink wrap them and put it all back. I ran a saftey rope back down with mine, in case the pump ever detached from the pipe, I can still get it out.


Good luck!

 

[ard]

^ Similar story, 6 months ago. 5HP 33GPM Gould submersible. 380 feet down on Schedule 120 deep set PVC pipe. Had to hire a crane to pull it- that weighs A LOT, and there are some unique tools that clamp the pipe every 20 foot of pulling to let you unscrew each section...

Due to pump torquing in the hole, wires rubbed through. Failure mode was instant and total failure to pump anything. But mine has run and start capacitors (Franklin Electric) on the top.

Given the cost of pulling it, I replaced the pump to as it was 15 years old. Anyone want to buy a pump cheap?

Pump and motor was $2400.

Now, 15 years ago I had a galvanized pipe split down the hole- pressure gradually dropped, water got really muddy. Pressure wise it was similar to OP comments