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What am I forgetting?

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Jack_Toepfer

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Joined
Mar 27, 2017
Messages
114
Location
Lancaster NY
Hi Guys,

Wiring up my 18x40 attached garage before I insulate and drywall.

I have outlets high and low, and in the ceiling for lights. I’ll be putting a 240 by the box, and making an extension cord for it. May put another one where my compressor is going so I can upgrade in the future.

Beyond that... what else should I be putting into the walls? Maybe cat5, maybe coax, but anything else that you guys typically put in or regret not putting in?
Speaker wire maybe?

I plan on surface mounting my air, unless someone can convince me to do it differently.
 
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Jmatlock88

Well-known member
Joined
Jul 28, 2012
Messages
164
Some ideas to consider...
Mop sink or hand washing sink
Water hose bib inside for wet sanding, etc.
Shop "kill switch" that kills all power with a key
Ceiling Electrical and Air Outlets (Robo Reel, Air Drops, Air Cleaner)
Mini Split Provisions
PVC Electrical chase into attic
PVC chase for low voltage into attic
Drinking water fountain electrical and plumbing
Eye wash station
RV Electrical Plug
Yard Sprinkler system pre-wire
Remote compressor electrical switch
220V for automotive lift in ceiling
Exterior outlets
Outdoor Hot/Cold Hose Bib
Exhaust Fan
Central Dust Collector Wiring
In-Wall Shop Air
In-Wall Exterior Shop Air
Thermostat
Central vacuum system
Garage door openers (wire for shaft drive openers also)
Speaker Wire
Porch Swing Bracing
Bracing for TV mounts
Exterior Lighting / Sconce at Door
Whole House Generator Provisions
Alarm wire sensors at garage door, windows, door, and motion
Internet entrance chase
Cable TV and two Cat 6 to each TV
Phone / Cable / Network home structured wiring panel
Mop Station
Floor Drain trap primer
Septic System or Sewer lift pump provisions
All water shutoff valve for winter
Security Cameras
Compressor auto drain plumbing and wiring
Rebar grounding per code
A/C Condensation Drain Line
Pool Pump Provisions
 
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Jack_Toepfer

Well-known member
Joined
Mar 27, 2017
Messages
114
Location
Lancaster NY
Excellent List!
Will be taking that into the garage with me.
I put a full 2nd floor above it and a 6’ walkable attic above that, so I will have several chases going up.
I am considering 2 splits, and I assumed the power was going to be at the condenser, but haven’t actually researched yet.
The bike lift I have is air powered, but there is a Max Jax in my future, so 110 will do.

Friend of mine recommended running 10-2 to the first outlet and 12-2 from there. His chop saw didn’t like the 12-2. Anything else to consider along those lines?
 
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Jmatlock88

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Joined
Jul 28, 2012
Messages
164
Friend of mine recommended running 10-2 to the first outlet and 12-2 from there. His chop saw didn’t like the 12-2. Anything else to consider along those lines?
Click to expand...
Look up a current vs. wire length chart and choose your wiring based on the chart.

...so I will have several chases going up.
Click to expand...
If you still have the ability, put chases through the slab and into the wall for future. Add an electrical chase to the panel in case you need to add circuits. If you're almost full at the breaker panel, consider adding a sub panel now.


May put another one where my compressor is going so I can upgrade in the future.
Click to expand...
In addition, keep in mind any 220V you would need for your Band Saw, RV shore power, Welder, Mill, Lathe, or Table Saw.

If you know where you will have island work tables, add air and electrical outlets overhead or in the floor under them to eliminate cords and hoses on the floor.

If you are going to install upper cabinets, a lot of guys like to install blocking between the studs to make hanging them easier. Also if you are doing that, it may be nice to add provisions for under cabinet lighting.

Some guys like to have a remote monitoring gauge panel for the compressor.

Now is a good time to add plywood and eave baffles to corral your blow in insulation.

It's also a good time to spray foam gaps and service entrances to reduce air infiltration and improve HVAC efficiency.

You can run a bead of high end sealant around your sill plate.
Edit: This is what was recommended to me White Tremco DyMonic FC Polyurethane Sealant

You can add sound insulating puddy pads to any outlets on any shared wall with your home.
 
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wyliesdiesels

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Joined
Aug 14, 2012
Messages
19,983
Location
Modesto, CA
Jack_Toepfer said:
Hi Guys,

Wiring up my 18x40 attached garage before I insulate and drywall.

I have outlets high and low, and in the ceiling for lights. I’ll be putting a 240 by the box, and making an extension cord for it. May put another one where my compressor is going so I can upgrade in the future.

Beyond that... what else should I be putting into the walls? Maybe cat5, maybe coax, but anything else that you guys typically put in or regret not putting in?
Speaker wire maybe?

I plan on surface mounting my air, unless someone can convince me to do it differently.
Click to expand...

Whats the HP rating on your compressor?

If more than about 3.5HP, then standard NEMA plugs and receptacles will not work.
 
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Jack_Toepfer

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Joined
Mar 27, 2017
Messages
114
Location
Lancaster NY
cybrdyke said:
USB charger receptacles.
CD
Click to expand...

Great idea. I use the ones built into my toolbox all of the time. It will be on the opposite wall of the workbench, so that will be a good place to put them.

wyliesdiesels said:
Whats the HP rating on your compressor?
If more than 3HP, then standard NEMA plugs and receptacles will not work.
Click to expand...

I believe what I have is 1.5hp and is on its way out. I don't know that I would go up to 3hp, but that is good to know. If the right offer came along, I could see myself getting one that big. It'll be in a compressor closet so running that connection ~10' wouldn't be the worst thing.

ddawg16 said:
Do you have an attic? If so, put outlets up there for lights and maybe a recept.....
Click to expand...

I have a full 2nd floor above the garage that is serving as cold storage right now. I'll have 1.5" conduit coming straight up from my main panel into that open space. It isn't in the budget right now to receive any more than an outlet and some lights to continue functioning as an attic.

Maybe over the winter I'll be converting it into a home theater, and it'll be using a lot of power. At that time the splits will be installed in the garage and the theater. Thousands of watts for the sound and the shakers... so it'll be drawing a few amps.
 
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sberry

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Jun 18, 2005
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Location
Brethren, Michigan
Friend of mine recommended running 10-2 to the first outlet and 12-2 from there. His chop saw didn’t like the 12-2. Anything else to consider along those lines?
Click to expand...
Ok,,, this is not right. Run 12 to it all. Its not the wire the saw didnt like but the breaker. Id is good to have a circuit in the place just for a couple persnickety tools like that if needed.
My helper ran separate 10 to my saw,,, I didn't catch him and would have had him run 12. Adding a bigger wire for this type of thing just adds to the problem by allowing even more rush. In the field often throw a cord ahead of them.
Maybe over the winter I'll be converting it into a home theater, and it'll be using a lot of power. At that time the splits will be installed in the garage and the theater. Thousands of watts for the sound and the shakers... so it'll be drawing a few amps.
Click to expand...
This is not an accurate assessment of the demand.
 
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Jack_Toepfer

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Mar 27, 2017
Messages
114
Location
Lancaster NY
sberry said:
Ok,,, this is not right. Run 12 to it all. Its not the wire the saw didnt like but the breaker. Id is good to have a circuit in the place just for a couple persnickety tools like that if needed.
My helper ran separate 10 to my saw,,, I didn't catch him and would have had him run 12. Adding a bigger wire for this type of thing just adds to the problem by allowing even more rush. In the field often throw a cord ahead of them.
This is not an accurate assessment of the demand.
Click to expand...

Thanks for the heads up on the 10 vs 12.

When you say accurate assessment of the demand, am I underestimating? Or because I only made reference to the watts I’m overestimating?
The bulk of the system can probably run on a single 20A run. I’ll have ~3000 watts for the subs, another 1000 for shakers, and then a few atmos boxes.
I assumed the real demand was the popcorn machine, microwave, fridge, occasional vacuuming, power recliners, and fancy lighting. I haven’t researched the power demands, specifically, because I haven’t picked out the components yet. Having said that, I think I may be hitting a snag.

My plan was to run 1.25” pvc conduit between the first floor panel and the upstairs, so that when I finish the upstairs I can just fish wires up the finished 1st floor wall in the conduit. When I researched how many wires in a conduit that size, the numbers seemed too high. Assuming I strip the insulation off of the Romex, I have a feeling the 1.25” conduit is PLENTY... though I thought 4-5 circuits would be pushing it, sounds like I could run 2x that and still have room. Am I reading the fill table properly?

Lastly, I’ve attached a picture of something I’m not sure I can do. Undoing this now is pretty easy. How many of these wires can I run through a 1.5” hole?

Thanks in advance!
 

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Jack_Toepfer

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Messages
114
Location
Lancaster NY
It’ll be on the side of the garage by the man door, not on the front by the overhead. Same goes for the back of the garage.
 
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Crazyjake8493

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Messages
3,949
Location
Upstate NY
The biggest changes I would make would be to add at least two more 6-50R receptacles for my welders, as well as one on the outside next to the garage door. I'd also add switched soffit receptacles in each corner of the garage, for holiday lights.

Actually the biggest change I would make would be to surface mount the panel and all wiring in EMT, but it's too late for that.
 
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Jack_Toepfer

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Joined
Mar 27, 2017
Messages
114
Location
Lancaster NY
Thanks Jake...
Wiring in the soffit is on my list!

I'm hung up on speaker wire now... I don't know where I'm putting the stereo or the speakers... ugh
 
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Jack_Toepfer

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Mar 27, 2017
Messages
114
Location
Lancaster NY
The fumes from a gas can typically rise to the level of the low outlets, if I recall correctly...
I believe the context is for certain non-ventilated spaces in commercial garages.

I have no problem getting rid of the 18" outlets if I have to, just more convenient if I have a table or workbench that would have things on it that would obstruct access to the 54" outlets. And if I'm running something like a shop-vac on the floor, no reason to have the cord start 54" above the ground.
 
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alfredeneuman

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Mar 3, 2011
Messages
4,580
Location
Fullerton, CA
I spent years building commercial garages at car dealerships.
The space up to 18" in all commercial garages ONLY is considered to be a Class1 Div2 Hazardous Location.
It's not applicable any place other than that.
 
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