What am I missing? New garage build

[Mr.N]

Well, this will be my first building start to finish... I'm sure I'll make mistakes, but hope I can get help from fellow GJ members to avoid the larger mistakes.

Plan to sub some jobs out, mainly the concrete and roof. Found the RIA rafters for $151 each
Goal is for a basic shell, and keep it less expensive but not cheap.

Starting next spring, as we've ice on the lakes right now in MN.
Draft to see how it might look.
Looking forward to any constructive criticism

 

[kb2tha]

Looks like you are gearing up for a nice project.

Some things to perhaps consider:

I like to use 5/8" ply on a roof that uses 24 oc truss or rafter spacing (whatever the slope of the roof). I would still use the H clips.

You could partially fund the extra expense of the 5/8 ply by going 24"oc on your wall framing. This would also give the advantage of having the wall studs line up directly under your roof framing.

Might want to check local codes on the minimum acceptable slab thickness on your perimeter. 8" may be a bit scant with that type of construction.

Keep posting and make sure we get pictures along the way.

Most of all, have fun with it.
Ken


Your plans show a 7' door height and detail an 8' door. I just put 3- 9' x 8' OH in my garage under construction. I would go at least 8' high in your case or maybe even a 9-10' high with your 11'-3" ceiling. Never know what you may want to put in there in the future.

 

[JSBriggs]

A 7' tall door is very limiting. If you have a 4x4 or a pickup with a rack it may not fit. It looks like you have enough room for a 10' door. If you ever plan on getting a travel trailer, the added height allows it to be brought inside.

-Jeff

 

[Mr.N]

Looks like you are gearing up for a nice project.

Thanks, should be fun as it is replacing a falling down single unit.

Really, 5/8" sheathing... Didn't know that would be a good spot to add more.

City code has 16" on center for the walls, any other places to save cash?

Code shows a 3.5" slab with 8" Min for the edge. Would 10" be enough?
- at 24 x 22 (maybe 24 x 24) I'm pushing 8 yards of concrete and would like to keep the slab to one truck.

I've a deal on a used over head door, as they are taking down 8 houses near me. None of the owners wanted to move, but the city gave them a letter they can't fight... So unless I can find another good deal it looks like 7'

Question: Could I place the header at 8' and still run a 7' door?
- Figure could space down with some 2x4's

 

[rwhite692]

I've a deal on a used over head door, as they are taking down 8 houses near me.... So unless I can find another good deal it looks like 7':

IMHO....You have to be kidding with this...Getting a deal on a used 7' garage door is not nearly reason enough not to go with a 9' or 10' door. The cost of a garage door is nearly completely meaningless vs. the total cost of your project...Don't do it.

 

[bazzateer]

Put the header in for a 10' door then space out for your 7' deal. When the money is available, fit a taller door.

 

[Doug B]

If you plan to heat the garage in the future,you might consider 2x6 studs to allow for more insulation.Also,if code will allow you to use 6" concrete blocks,that would eliminate that annoying ledge where framing meets block,creating a nice flat wall surface for shelving or cabinets.
I also agree that you should frame the door openings for 8' high doors.
Good luck with the project! Make sure to start a build thread when you begin construction.

 

[kb2tha]

Codes are only the minimum requirements. I tend to overbuild when I do build.

The 1/2" ply would most likely get you by since you show a 10/12 slope. Snow will still accumulate with asphalt shingles on that slope in Minnesota. I would upgrade to the 5/8".

For sure, frame for the 10' door height. Keep an eye on CL for a used taller door. You have all winter and likely well into the spring to find one.

Slab perimeter is again the minimum. It makes sense to keep your delivery to one truck if you have the right soil and preparation for the minimum of 8". No way would i go with the code on the 3.5" slab itself. Just poured 1400 sf of 4.5" 3500psi with 3 trucks.

The 2 x 6 studs would be good as well. More insulation. Do your codes allow 24"oc spacing with 2x6? If you insulate, consider the open cell spray foam. Great stuff.

Happy Thanksgiving.

Ken

 

[Mr.N]

IMHO....You have to be kidding with this...Getting a deal on a used 7' garage door is not nearly reason enough not to go with a 9' or 10' door. The cost of a garage door is nearly completely meaningless vs. the total cost of your project...Don't do it.

It's a very nice 7' door, and comes with all the hardware.
I'm not sold, but this garage will not see my Jeep. (Which doesn't fit in a 7' door without airing down)

I figure at 22-24' deep it will not see anything too big.

 

[Mr.N]

Put the header in for a 10' door then space out for your 7' deal. When the money is available, fit a taller door.

So, I'll place the header at 10'.
I'm then looking to fill with 2x4's and a mini header with 2x6's and 1/2 plywood. Maybe make two boxes at 2' and 1' using screws so it's easier to remove in the future.
- Good idea or bad?

 

[Mr.N]

Also,if code will allow you to use 6" concrete blocks,that would eliminate that annoying ledge where framing meets block,creating a nice flat wall surface for shelving or cabinets.

Great idea... never thought of it, I'll make sure to ask.
All the block is getting filled, and will over use re-bar.

What is the best way to tie in the blocks to the pad?

Right now no plans for insulation. Figure could always add 2x2's or 2x3's in the future for the extra space.

I'll take some pics, have to get one of the current block wall falling down.

 

[bazzateer]

So, I'll place the header at 10'.
I'm then looking to fill with 2x4's and a mini header with 2x6's and 1/2 plywood. Maybe make two boxes at 2' and 1' using screws so it's easier to remove in the future.
- Good idea or bad?

Sounds good to me.

 

[little d]

here is a thought, if your getting a REALLY good deal on the door, get 2 and combine to make what ever size opening ya want.

 

[Mr.N]

here is a thought, if your getting a REALLY good deal on the door, get 2 and combine to make what ever size opening ya want.

none of the Neighbors have the same door... and I'm not a fan of a garage door with different looking panels.

 

[bohica53]

Your footing size is way small. You will have 12 cmu , grouted solid for your walls, so the footing needs to be at least 12" thick and 24" wide.

 

[EdT]

I could be wrong, but I thought that the normal requirement is for the footers to extend below the frost line for the area where you are located. In Minnesota, I think that's closer to 8' than 8". Talk to your local building inspector tell him what you want to do and find out what he would like to see. Ask him for help and he probably will tell you more than you can absorb. In most areas of the country, the building inspection business is a bit slow right now; so he probably has the time.

 

[Stuart in MN]

Thickened slab construction is actually pretty typical for garages in Minnesota - I would say as many of them are built on slabs as there are on frost footings. Mine was built that way and it's been fine for 20 years now. However, the plans above show the sides of the garage below grade and I don't know how that will affect things, if at all.

 

[Mr.N]

Your footing size is way small. You will have 12 cmu , grouted solid for your walls, so the footing needs to be at least 12" thick and 24" wide.

This is something I don't know about... thanks for posting.
Guess it's off to do some reading...


As I'm pushing the limits on a single truck of concrete, would it be better to wider rather than deeper?
How much rebar would be needed?

 

[Mr.N]

I could be wrong, but I thought that the normal requirement is for the footers to extend below the frost line for the area where you are located. In Minnesota, I think that's closer to 8' than 8". Talk to your local building inspector tell him what you want to do and find out what he would like to see. Ask him for help and he probably will tell you more than you can absorb. In most areas of the country, the building inspection business is a bit slow right now; so he probably has the time.

If the garage was attached to a house, Code says to go with a "continuous footings 42" below grade." I'd go 48" to be safe.

Good note about the building inspector having extra time... I wanted a good plan before I called.

 

[Steevo]

I have two garages (on two houses) and one has 7' doors, while the other has 8' doors.
I can back my 4wd pickup with lumber rack into the 8' doors, but can't get in the 7'. I can roll my enclosed utility trailer into the 8' doors, but not the 7' ones. It is a constant frustration having the 7' doors, and I would never have them again.

 

[Rosco]

Not cost effective, but I like gluelam beams for garage door headers. Will make a big difference if you plan on using the loft.

 

[TurnipTruck]

Is this a parking garage or a workshop?
For Alaska, I would definitely fatten the slab edge to as thick as the CMU and twice as wide. If it was a crawl space, you could get away with 8" CMU because the floor would resist ground pressure, but for the bermed or recessed foundation you've drawn I would use 12" CMU, with rebar every other block (32" oc) through to the slab, and I wouldn't be offended by every block having rebar. Pour all CMUs full, and use bondbeam CMU's for the top course. Seal and insulate the outside of the block walls. Use drain tile outside the base of the slab unless its well-draining gravel, and then I recommend gutter to get water away.
Don't bother with a 7" high door.
Make sure your attic trusses are designed for a minimum of 45psf snowload and 30-ish + psf floor load would be nice.
2x6 studs 24"oc and lined up with the trusses.
Make an insulation-stuffed box beam instead of a doubled 2x header.

 

[Steve in Mi]

If the garage was attached to a house, Code says to go with a "continuous footings 42" below grade." I'd go 48" to be safe.

Good note about the building inspector having extra time... I wanted a good plan before I called.

I would be surprised if you can get a building permit for a structure on a floating slab where any wall portion is below grade. Without an anchor footing the hydraulic pressure against that sunken wall will tend to push this shop across your lot.