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What are you guys using as a base molding ?

Weedwaka

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Mar 28, 2008
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What are you guys using as a base molding ?

I have drywall going to ~ 1" above the concrete. The gap is ugly and gets full of **** / spiders. Is there a water proof composite molding for garages ? I have seen the metal stuff and its a bit too blingy and $$ for me. Anybody use that rubber moulding you see in schools ?
 
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RivennHewn

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Rubber base is great. Easy to clean, doesn't catch dust, water proof for mopping.

My suggestion would be to use continuous, instead of the 3' lengths. Less joints to fail.

I'd also caulk the bottom edge to the concrete, to really seal it up.
 

PCO6

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Dec 25, 2008
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Newmarket, Ontario
I used rubber molding that is specifically for that purpose. It can be purchased by the foot in the flooring department at Home Depot. It's about 4" tall. I bought gray and I think it comes in black too.
 

darkk

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Dec 24, 2009
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Willimantic, Ct.
I used AZEK board to frame around the overhead door and man door openings. You know how stuff bangs up door ways. I also used AZEK for the toe board/kick board under all the regular doors to the house. You know how people tend to tap the stuff off their shoes before coming in during inclement weather. Saves a lot of repainting and repairs...
 

bobadame

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I used 1X4" composite trim board. It's the same stuff I used on the outside trim around the corners and the windows so it is waterproof. Also it adds strength to the bottom spans of sheet rock between the studs so you can push heavy stuff right up against it without fear of going through the rock.
 

MDSPHOTO

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Oz
I had some left over Trex decking pieces that I used for the base molding. I also built the steps into the house from the garage out of the same material and it ties in really well.
 

Tim The Tool Man

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Lehigh Valley, PA
Spray foam for the gap and then PVC, foam, or paint grade wood molding. The roll vinyl cove molding won't stick to the walls and hold it's shape over your gap even with spray foam.
 

NUTTSGT

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The bottom of my wall (back wall) is 2x4 PTbut it is covered with OSB and a 1/2" gap. I friend has used a PT 2x6 on edge in his shop.
 

regguy1

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On Mount Olympus with Zeus
I have concrete stem walls, I just painted them the same color as the trim.
maybe you're over thinking it?
 

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Kevin54

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Don't look at how dirty they are. I still have to go back and paint and touch up in places.
 

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Kevin54

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I have concrete stem walls, I just painted them the same color as the trim.
maybe you're over thinking it?

All of this time, I thought that you had gray paneling up. I never knew that was concrete. :lol:
 
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Weedwaka

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Lots of great feedback. That composite trim / trex idea is great.

I think I like the idea of the rubber base if it will go on straight and stay on. I guess you could lay it out for a week or so prior to get it good and flat or put a standard wood base first and the rubber base over that keeping the wood up 1/4 inch.

I wouldnt use Hardie as it chips / breaks / crumbles easily being a fiber board. We have Hardie on the exterior of the house.

Any pics of the rubber base installed / tips ?
 

OldTC

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Sep 23, 2011
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Central Oklahoma
We all need to keep in mind all those little molten balls of steel if you do any cutting and welding.
They like to roll around and sometime come to rest up against something combustible.

I screwed up BIG time when I put cheap fiber expansion joint all around the perimeter of mine.
 

Silver Heels

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Oct 19, 2011
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I have had issues with the self adhesive vinyl baseboard sold in the continuous lengths. If your shop is not heated all the time, it will expand/contract and come loose- plus the adhesive does not stick well if the surface isn't smooth. The kind that comes in the 3' lengths that glues on with vinyl cove base adhesive is better. If you have a gap below the drywall, though it will need to be filled first. My vote is to fill the gap and use a rigid board/trex material.
 

CamarosRus

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Renton, WA (Seattle)
My vote is to fill the gap and use a rigid board/trex material.

If you use a "TREX" style board do you need to rip these from a sheet
or buy already cut in ?? sizes


I still need to conclude how to fill out / flush out my concrete footing below
the sheetrock surface. My wallboard/sheetrock is "out" maybe 1/2" further than the concrete footing that the wood stud wall is framed upon.

I'm also thinking about:

1) covering lower 4' (or more) with FRP (Fiberglas Panels)

2) removing sheetrock to expand my electrica, air and water
AND replace sheetrock with White coated vertical metal panels.

PLEASE comment and advise if you have experience
 

Kevin54

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If you use a "TREX" style board do you need to rip these from a sheet
or buy already cut in ?? sizes


I still need to conclude how to fill out / flush out my concrete footing below
the sheetrock surface. My wallboard/sheetrock is "out" maybe 1/2" further than the concrete footing that the wood stud wall is framed upon.


I'm also thinking about:

1) covering lower 4' (or more) with FRP (Fiberglas Panels)

2) removing sheetrock to expand my electrica, air and water
AND replace sheetrock with White coated vertical metal panels.

PLEASE comment and advise if you have experience

In my house garage I had the same problem. I ripped down some treated 2x4's to the correct thickness I needed to fill the gap and used a little bit of construction adhesive to hold it on to the block. But I used wide baseboard and nailid it at the top where I had the sill plate. I only had problems on the house wall though and no where elde.
 
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