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What are your tricks for testing tiny connections?

Plombob

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Update: The lamp connector is weather tight, so it can't be backprobed. The only exposed connection is inside the plug.

I had to diagnose an LED array on a taillight that was out. I determined that the array was good, just not getting power. I wanted to test the connection to the wire loom, but the little prongs were as tiny as a small pin, and they were very close together. Impossible to get an alligator on one without getting it on both.

I figured out I could put a piece of insulated stranded wire over one connector and put the alligator on that.

Worked in a pinch. What are the tricks you've come up with?
 

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dave*99

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I have something that looks like this. Mine are extensible and the part that extends is insulated with a thin heat shrink so only the tips are exposed.

Amazon has many options.

1679853476931.png
 
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Plombob

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I have backprobe pins, but trying to keep them in contact with a tiny pin in a housing that moves is almost impossible. I needed something that would grip the pin.
 
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f121

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I have backprobe pins, but trying to keep them in contact with a tiny pin in a housing that moves is almost impossible. I needed something that would grip the pin.
My apologies, that’s defo a pita. I usually probe with the plug in place, but obviously that can influence the reading by having the circuit connected
 

unslow1

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Illinois
I have a Westward test lead kit. Then I also use all the above mentioned methods.

Part#1EKN6A

A few years ago I was lucky enough to get in on one of the Hot Deals here and got it for half price.

This looks like a great deal if you do much. It looks a lot like an ASEWAVE kit. If think link is unacceptable please delete.

 
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Plombob

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Wow! That's quite some kit! If I was a working mechanic, I'd get one. Wish I'd seen that hot deal.

I should have mentioned that the backside of the connector is weather tight, so you can't backprobe.

I don't like to pierce insulation, because that creates a place where corrosion can enter. I'll try any other method to avoid piercing the insulation.
 

Innovate1

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Looks like you came up with a good, simple solution - sometimes you have to get creative. You could try to find a connector contact about the right size and put that over the pin. Then clip to the contact. Works for pins or sockets. I work with electronics so have access to an assortment of this type of parts. If sockets you may be able to find a solid wire size that fits. Don't force too big a part in as it will spring the contacts and make the contact with the mating connector worse.

For repeated use like production test we 3d print a body and insert "pogo pins" - Gold plated spring pings used for test fixtures. But overkill and impractical for limited use.
 

Zeus36

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Oct 1, 2016
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Ventura, California
For a situation with recessed male plug pins where you can't backprobe, I slip on cannon plug female pins to extend the male pins outside of the connector, then use mini-hook probes.

1679940080723.png1679940142516.png
1679940193000.png
 

Noltz

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Ontario, Canada
I have pieces of MIG welding wire that I cut down to 2" and soldered wire onto them. Made about a half dozen 8' leads to help me diagnose vehicle networking issues. Commercial is obviously better but tool truck is too expensive for a once a year problem.
 
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Plombob

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Joined
Oct 19, 2008
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4,133
Location
Tennessee
For a situation with recessed male plug pins where you can't backprobe, I slip on cannon plug female pins to extend the male pins outside of the connector, then use mini-hook probes.

1679940080723.png1679940142516.png
1679940193000.png

Very clever! I never thought of Canon pins! I'll have to get one of those plugs.

I have pieces of MIG welding wire that I cut down to 2" and soldered wire onto them. Made about a half dozen 8' leads to help me diagnose vehicle networking issues. Commercial is obviously better but tool truck is too expensive for a once a year problem.

Can you post a picture? I'm having trouble picturing that setup.
 

Noltz

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Can you post a picture? I'm having trouble picturing that setup.
Sure. Top one is my "network comb" that lets me jumper in different modules on a network. Some vehicles the computer data lines all come to a specific point and a brass "comb" is put in to connect them all. When a network crashes I can remove the comb and use this tool to connect the DLC to modules one-by-one until I find what branch crashes it all.
The bottom one is simple jumper leads that let me go from the comb to the computer itself, backprobing the data line and seeing if communications are restored by supplying a new path. Also works for applying supplemental grounds to lighting circuits on Chryslers :)
The tips are just mig wire from my welder trimmed and soldered to the wire. The colors help me identify the wires during testing.

20230331_081212.jpg
 
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