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What can I do to fix rough/wavy/uneven slab.

SickSilverado

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Jan 9, 2012
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I had the guy that poured my last slab to do the frame work. I told him 17.5 X 15. He said ok and proceeded to get it done. I should have measured it myself, he ended up building a 18X18. So when I calculated my size(based off my planned size), I ordered 5.5 yards of fiber reinforced concrete. Turns out it wasn't enough. I needed atleast 6.
I guess you could say I got in over my head. I still think it would've come out nice if I had ordered enough concrete and had a helper who listened(and wasn't coked up). The parts where I got to use my method came out nice, the other parts look horrible.
What I want to know is if I can pour 2" more on top to fix it? I think even an inch will fix it I think. The slab is about 18X18 and 5.5" thick. It's just gonna be a patio but I want it to look nice. I'm new to this, so I'm open to any suggestions and advice.
 
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Kmt803

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Check out Cement All from Rapid Set Concrete,it is sold in Home Depot . It is a little pricey but you can go from a feather edge up to 4 inches. It dries really fast and needs to be wetted down after you pour it. It has a high psi .They have some videos on You Tube. Check it out.
 

Cyberbear

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I once had a bathroom slab that was pieced together with several pours that was rough as a cob. I called in a company that used a cement based leveling compound that was mixed with water and poured in place and was self leveling.
After it was all completed, the bathroom floor was perfectly level and absolutely smooth and perfect for the new floor covering. You may wish to consider this option.
 

wssix99

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You could grind it flat. I'm not sure what that would cost, but it would leave you with a cool-looking effect like terrazzo:

P1020536.preview.JPG
 

jimbbski

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Grinding or polishing concrete is one way to go. The effect you see is all based on what aggregate is used in the mix.
 

Kevin54

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tear it out and make him do it over or cover it with some sort of tile. I hate to say, but that just looks like ****. I believe that grinding would be sort of cost prohibitive. You may get by with putting a bonderizer on it, and adding another 2", but then you stand chances of cracking later on.

The best thing to do is bite the bullet, tear it out, and have it done correctly.
 
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SickSilverado

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I was the idiot who did the pour. Where I went wrong was not checking the measurements after I payed a contractor to build the forms. My other mistake was not finding some more/better help. My helper was all messed up and wouldn't help me screed the concrete. I wasn't healthy enough to do it myself since I'd just been bit by a black widow just hours before.
Yes the pics are of the finish. Haha...I'm so embarrassed. I may just cover it with wood until my finances come back up then either dig it up or add the two inches of leveling compound. I keep trying to convince myself I could live with it because it's just gonna be a "hang out spot" or game room...
 

wssix99

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The posted photos....is that the finish that was left? Wow.

Yep, that's the way it looks when you cut through concrete and polish it. I'm sure these folks also used a sealer afterwards.


I wasn't healthy enough to do it myself since I'd just been bit by a black widow just hours before.

Ouch. I married one, too. ;)


I keep trying to convince myself I could live with it because it's just gonna be a "hang out spot" or game room...

Is this going to be an outdoor patio, covered patio, or interior conditioned space? You have options for all three, but they are different.
 

chops101

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I would do it up in slate, a perfect outdoor natural tile. I did my front porch, sealed it gloss, and it looks like a million bucks.
 

wssix99

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I would do it up in slate, a perfect outdoor natural tile. I did my front porch, sealed it gloss, and it looks like a million bucks.

I'm thinking similarly. The slab that's there now is a fine canvas as it currently stands. If the slab is over sized for what you want to build, you can just rent a concrete saw and trim it down.

I'd put down a cementitious underpayment to level the current pad out and then do a tile floor. Slate would definitely look great - I'm a big fan but am of the opinion that slate installs are best left to pros. (Pros with a portfolio - so they can prove to you that they can actually do it right.)

Since this will be a covered/enclosed patio, you can rest easily with the options. (I'm not sure I'd go for the leveling underlayment or some types of tile if it was out in the open.)
 
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SickSilverado

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So if I wanted to level the top, regular concrete with fiber reinforcement is not the correct material to use? I don't have a way to mix up 50 to 60 bags of product quickly, so ordering a truck load is my easiest option.
Slate looks awesome, we were actually thinking of getting it stamped but decided against the added expense since we had other things to take care of.
 

rburke65

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How about going to a ready mix supplier and showing them a photo or 3 and ask them if theywold be able to supply you with a mixture that would adhere to the concrete that you poured. See what they have to say.
 

James-W

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I once had a bathroom slab that was pieced together with several pours that was rough as a cob. I called in a company that used a cement based leveling compound that was mixed with water and poured in place and was self leveling.

After it was all completed, the bathroom floor was perfectly level and absolutely smooth and perfect for the new floor covering. You may wish to consider this option.
I think this would be one of the best options available.
 

CNGsaves

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Isn't the majority of the slab alright ??

I'd recommend concrete saw off the bad portion, and just re-do that portion.

If needed, you could grind down both sections (when done) and put on epoxy finish.
 
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SickSilverado

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Yeah, I think majority of it's alright/acceptable since it'll rarely be seen/used. I went over some options with the contractor that did the forms. I mentioned all the ideas you guys posted in this thread. I think we settled on knocking down the high/rough spots with a grinder and using a self leveling product and a concrete adhesive. I'm still gonna talk to the ready mix plant and see if they have any products that might help.

Thanks for the link Greg.
 
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wssix99

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Thinset or Portland cement skimmed smooth over the rough areas?

So if I wanted to level the top, regular concrete with fiber reinforcement is not the correct material to use?

No. Products using plain, regular cement will crack unless they have a good bit of depth. (2-3") You can't feather them out unless there are additives to prevent this.


I'm still gonna talk to the ready mix plant and see if they have any products that might help.

What are you going to do for your final floor covering? You might be best off by putting your walls/roof up and doing the leveling with a product that is most compatible with your flooring.
 
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SickSilverado

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I WAS thinking of an epoxy type coating. I should just pour a cap, but I think I'm just gonna grind down the high spots for now and fill with a resurfacer in the low spots. Probably just gonna leave the "natural" finish on it. Maybe try again on the slab I'm doing in two weeks, but I'm gonna do it right this time and have a good base to start from.
 

Zeke

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I see a good cause for pavers or tile. Bare concrete for a patio is sort of plain jane anyway. If you fill it you will see differences in color. I'm with those that think leveling compound left uncovered with something will chip at the feathered edges.

I guess there's always the concrete staining process to even out the color.
 

RECox286

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If it were my patio, I would go with a leveling cover-up

of a finishing tile, slate, brick or pavers. You would have

plenty of strength when done, and it would look real boss.

I would suggest sawing some expansion joints in your

current just to make sure.

Uncle Bob
 
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