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What Ceiling Height?

HPRifleman

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I'm trying to decide on the appropriate ceiling height for a stick-built garage. My starting point is a 9' ceiling. But if it was a reasonable upcharge to get 10' or 11' then it might be worth it if there is some kind of benefit.

The space will be vehicle storage (including a 7' tall pick-up) and light duty workshop. I have no plans to install a lift or anything else that I can think of that might be tall but maybe I'm missing something. Any increased volume will have to be heated/cooled so that's a small downside of increased height.

Do you guys have any reasons that would justify adding a foot or two. I only have one chance to get it right.
 
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jetnow1

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Jun 27, 2016
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CT.
I would think about going to a 10 foot height and 8 foot high doors at a minimum. Getting a pickup into a 7 foot tall door is a pain and may not be possible if equipped with a rack.
Don't know what kind of work you do, but handling long pieces of wood is easier with a higher ceiling, and I have had to push a 4 wheel drive vehicle out of the garage to be able to lift the motor out with a low ceiling.
 

Innovate1

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I think going to 10 ft ceiling wouldn't be a big adder. And 8 ft high doors - I have always thought 7' high doors are too restrictive even for an attached garage mostly used for just parking.
 

BB Sig

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If you plan to be loading/unloading things into the truck while in the garage, you might want to go over 10'. Just depends upon what YOU need.

I agree with the 8' tall door!

Can you give us a better idea of your activities concerning the tall truck?
 

TractorJeff

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Elkhorn, WI
9 foot is 1 foot cut off a 10 foot 2 by 4 = wasted money!
Go 12 to put in a 10 foot high door, you won't regret it!
 

Lucky Llama

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Pass Christian
9' will coat about as much or more as 10'. You have to pay labor to cut off the extra foot on the lumber siding and interior sheating.
 

kasander

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Wilmington, NC
If you need building inspections, you can go up to 10' with 2x4 walls 16" o.c. If you go higher, you will have to do 2x6 walls or double up the 2x4 studs. I used 10' studs in my garage on a 6" stem wall for a roughly 10'9" ceiling height. Studs were precut to 117" I believe to account for bottom and top plate. Of course I have a double bottom plate and double top plate, so that adds another 3"
 

ericm

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I think in many places 10' is the break where you need to use 2x6s in the walls vs 2x4s. It'll depend on local codes of course. And some places use 2x6s for shorter walls to get more insulation in.
 

Bopbop

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Savannah,Ga
I would go 12 foot with a 10 foot door. That is what I have in my new shop. In my old shop I had 9 foot with a 8 foot door. I hated it soon after I finished building it.
 

yeldogt

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Some places have code restrictions .. and overall heights. Buildings get strange looking with high walls and low slope roofs. I had to get a variance one time for 12' walls and steep roof ... that was the design.
 

u2slow

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I built tall enough to be able to drive in full road-legal height. Added a little extra to help with mezzanine/storage, and keep the lean-to's on the sides as tall as practical.
 

tonyciambrone

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Northern Illinois
I have 10ft (bought that way).

If I were building new 12ft would be the bare minimum. That way a lift is possible, you can put in 8ft or 10ft pallet rack comfortably, and there is plenty of height as others stated to handle sheet goods and lumber.

My warehouse at work is 16ft which would be great for a personal garage, but for work I wish it were 24.

Height is really underrated against sq ft.
 

Lucky Llama

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Pass Christian
ssdave I appreciate your input. 9' studs are not always available here. When they are the price of a 9' is the same as a 10'. The op should maybe check his local market and price the difference.
 

mike93lx

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Any exterior wall should be 2x6 anyway if the structure will ever be climate controlled. 2x4 is silly for anything but a shed or interior walls
 
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kbs2244

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I have an 10w x 8h door leading into a 10 at the eve garage.
But I went with a ridge beam roof that gives me a vaulted ceiling with 14 feet at the peak.

I love it not only for the practicality but for the feeling of an open space.
It just frees my sprit to walk into a big feeling room even though it is only 20 x 24.
 

NUTTSGT

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Personally, I go with 10' walls and build them with 2x6 lumber. I'd adjust my stud wall length according to the height of the block or concrete stem wall. Is your lot flat or sloped ?

Another course of block is easy to add when the mason is going at it. No need to add all wall height in lumber. The extra course of block might be nice to get the exterior wall away from the outside grade and the interior wall up if you're washing a car.

FWIW, I would also use 2x6 for the walls. They are stronger and allow for more insulation. It's a one time extra cost, buy once, cry once but every time you heat or cool the structure, it'll be an ongoing return on that investment.
 

Benw455

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I built a 30x40 with 10' ceilings. I wish I would have went 12'.
 
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HPRifleman

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If you plan to be loading/unloading things into the truck while in the garage, you might want to go over 10'. Just depends upon what YOU need.

I agree with the 8' tall door!

Can you give us a better idea of your activities concerning the tall truck?

The truck is just a cheap pick-up that I bought for hauling stuff and to tinker with. Other than wanting enough height to store it in the garage (and get it up on jack stands) it isn't driving the garage height.

The garage will accommodate vehicles from the pick-up all the way down to motorcycles.
 

txvwnut

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Bedford, Texas
My shop has ten foot ceilings and works well with my mid rise scissor lifts and VW vans. Next shop will have twelve foot ceilings maybe higher.
 
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HPRifleman

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Several of you have mentioned at least an 8' high door. That was always my plan as I assumed the ceiling was 1' above the door height. Is 9' not enough ceiling to accommodate an 8' door? Local code limits garage doors to no more than 9' high. Of course, the actual interior ceiling is unlimited.

As I mentioned in my original post, I have no plans to add a car lift. What I wanted to find out was if there was any height need that I wasn't considering. The movement of a 4'x 8' sheet was one I hadn't thought of although that requirement would be rare. So far the only thing that I came up with putting my F-350 on jack stands. Other than that I have a hard time justifying an extra tall ceiling.

I understand the "build it bigger just because you can" responses. But I don't have an unlimited budget and I don't want to heat and cool extra air if I don't have to.
 

NC.50

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Maggie Valley NC
If you are planning to install a lift the minimum for a full height lift would be an 11' clear height. 12' would be better. Respecting costs more wall height is cheap when compared with foundation, floor area and roofing sf costs. However garage doors pricing jumps when you choose other than normal...8' or 9'. An 10' high garage door can be 30% more than a 9'. Not because of sf but due to it being a custom not a stock size.
 

u2slow

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When you have an aggressive square-footage cap due to bylaws.... 'Up' may be your only option for a bigger shop.
 

BB Sig

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Florida
Sounds like the OP only needs 9'. I'd inch it up as high as can be afforded right now not going over 10' based on your needs. It sounds like this is a true garage and not a workshop/car repair hobby area that "needs"/wants a lift or the extra height.
 
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HPRifleman

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It sounds like this is a true garage and not a workshop/car repair hobby area that "needs"/wants a lift or the extra height.

That's more or less accurate. There will certainly be some vehicle wrenching going on but it's hobby level only. I won't be able to acquire my classic Ferrari collection until that Nigerian prince comes through with the millions he promised.
 

Joemctag

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Especially if it were mor a “building” than a garage, 11’ or 12’ ceilings are great for a workshop. Your lights can hang down some, but just the height is going to feel good to be in. Windows high up on walls are really nice, too. Also, it doesn’t take much to heat some more air. It’s the increased heat loss from having more wall area. So just insulate more.If a high eave would look odd in your opinion, consider a “saltbox”, normal height eave one side, moderate to steep roof up to ridge and back down to high eave on other side.It’ll actually look “upscale” .&
 

aggie113

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Jul 22, 2015
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San Antonio, TX
Initially I was going to do 30x40x16. I later increased that to 18' high to allow for more generous ceiling heights for the areas I plan to put a second story in. The additional height only cost about 2k more in build costs.
 

1MtnGoat

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Aug 18, 2013
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Cleveland, TN
Go to 10' with 9' high OHD. Yes the 9' door works with no special hardware. I have 3 in my shop. Well worth the minimal $$ spent. I installed the doors and openers by myself. Also will save on labor and waste. A 4x8 panel can be carried and flipped over/around with less worries on hitting the ceiling. I've had both 9' and 10'. 10' wins by far.
 

PNWguy

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Jan 3, 2018
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Near Grants Pass, OR
You failed to mention the one really important thing - what are you doing in the garage?

If you're parking, the height doesn't matter. If you're working, it does.
If you're heating it, height matters. If not, it doesn't.

What works for me is 10' in the garage (parking and some storage) and woodshop, and 12' in the shop. YMMV.
 

mike93lx

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You failed to mention the one really important thing - what are you doing in the garage?

If you're parking, the height doesn't matter. If you're working, it does.
If you're heating it, height matters. If not, it doesn't.

What works for me is 10' in the garage (parking and some storage) and woodshop, and 12' in the shop. YMMV.

Did you bother reading the first post?
 

lockhart3

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Dec 22, 2019
Messages
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Idaho
Limited by the 9’ door max you said (bummer) so I would say go 12, (11’ minimum) as 2 ft above door opening is best design plan to accommodate a quality door track rail bend radius and to have space for a electric door operator.

My experience has found a 10’ wide door is so nice for ease of backing and pulling out vehicles. Also 10’ high for trailers I’ve always needed.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

finn

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Mar 27, 2005
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The UP, God's country
I have two garages and a shop, with a total of (at least) four different ceiling and door heights.

The first is a traditional 24’x32’ stick built wit 2x4 studs, and a nominal 8’ ceiling height. It is pretty useless for anything but parking small vehicles, 2wd pickups, and lawn equipment. The7’ door scrapes the roof on my 2wd Super Duty dually if I am not careful and I can’t get my CTL or cab tractor through the opening, although my old Deere 240 skid steer would fit, if I was careful with the door.

My garage at the house is 32x 54, with a stepped roof, we laid three courses of split faced block over a floating slab and then used 8’ studs on 30’x24’ for a nominal 10’ wall, and used 10’ studs for the other 24’x32’ deep portion, for a nominal 12’ ceiling, and 8 and 10 door heights, respectively. They stepped roof and split faced block look good, at least to me, and break up what would otherwise be a pretty nondescript steel sided building. I can easily fit my Kioti CUT, and the CTL through the 8’ doors, but the ceiling is, in my opinion too low for a lift. The taller ceiling and 10’ door let’s an F600 dump truck in, and would be suitable for a properly selected lift. Actual ceiling heights are a little higher than the8’and10’ values when top and bottom plateare considered.

My shop has traditional 16’ ceiling height and 14’ doors. It’s the only option if you want to fit a large fifth wheel (mine is just under13’6”).

My recommendation would be go with the 12’+ option as I have in the larger part of my home garage, if you can deal with the aesthetics of such a tall building.

If not, don’t go any lower than 10’+ and an 8’ high door.
 
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