What chainsaw would you recommend?

[DaviesJames78]

Hello guys.

I've come here to find advice.
I'm currently looking around the market to try & find a chainsaw to help me in some work I want to undertake in the yard of my newly purchased property. I originally thought about paying somebody to do it for me, but I have now come up with the idea of doing it myself & turning it into my own little project.

The yard to the rear has become a little overgrown over time & the only thing I can think of the help with the larger elements of a garden would be a chainsaw. As you will be able to tell from the image at the bottom, there is a large tree that is draped over the garden next door which I wish to get rid of, but to cut costs, I would like to do it myself.

I have looked at some different chainsaws & brands & as I don't know if I will be using it again, I don't want to spend a lot of money on it. With that said, I still want the chainsaw to be of a good standard.

Here are the different chainsaws that I have looked at so far:
- http://www.husqvarna.com/uk/products/chainsaws/236/966639901/
- http://www.screwfix.com/p/titan-ttl632chn-40cm-1-9hp-35cc-petrol-chainsaw/3147h
- https://heckler-power.com/product/58cc-petrol-chain-saw/

Which would you recommend for the job that I am looking at doing?
Also, any other tips you have to help better the garden would be greatly appreciated!

Thank you!!

 

[Jazz1]

The Husqvarna would be my choice of the 3. It is a smaller saw but will take down a large tree using some technique/patience. I use a Stihl for 20 years now about the same size around the house and for firewood and many times I tackle trees somewhat beyond what it was designed for.

 

[gdocktor3]

I would recommend Husqvarna or Stihl here in the USA. They are the "pros" tool of choice for good reason. Not that a cheaper saw won't work, I just prefer quality tools for stuff like this. Not sure how things are where you live, but husky saws sold in big box stores are not the same as those sold in mom n pop shops. Though, I bought my father a Husqvarna 455 rancher from lowes a few years ago which has been good to him, but side by side with my xp model you can tell it's not the same. Don't forget, you can always put smaller bar and chain on a bigger saw, but not always the other way around. If you're gonna spend the money, I'd go with a husky 455 model and use an 18" bar. You can run 20" bar or 14" if you wanted to. Although the 455 isn't huge, I say bigger is better. You don't want to be under powered when your life depends on it.

 

[one9gt]

If it's a one time use thing just rent one


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[BLUE72CAMARO]

Kind of hard to tell from that picture exactly how big the limbs on that tree are but they look to be under 12" diameter. The biggest diameter you plan to cut and how often you will use it is what dictates what size saw you need. Also a lot of what I see in this picture looks to be weeds and not woody brush and trees that require a saw if that is what we are talking about clearing.

As far as brand goes, I am a loyal stihl guy. They are by far the most widely available saws out there and you can get parts for them just about any place and I have yet to need any problems out of my three stihl chainsaws, granted one of them is less than a month old at this point.

My three saws are these.
MS180 - 12" bar - most used of the three because it is light and handy for general yard work and limbing. This is a home owners grade saw but has been very reliable for me.
MS290 - 18" bar - Pretty capable saw and works for cutting firewood and trees under 24" diameter fairly well
ms441 - 25" bar - This is the new saw. It is heavy, has a lot of power for falling large trees and working bigger logs into firewood.

IF you can make a saw like the 180 work for you size wise that is what I would recommend if you arent sure how much future use it will see.

Also if you dont ever see the need to use the saw again rental would be the way to go. Sitting around for years is hard on small engine carbs.

 

[lakeroadster]

Also if you dont ever see the need to use the saw again rental would be the way to go. Sitting around for years is hard on small engine carbs.

And to that point... OP, have you considered an electric chainsaw?

I have one and it works great: Homelite 14" 9 Amp Chainsaw

It's quiet and no fuel to deal with.

The couple times I needed to use it away from a power source I used my Honda generator, but 99% of the time I have an outlet I can access.

As a kid, who grew up logging trees and working in a sawmill, I spent a lot of hours with chainsaws.

Sometimes less is more.

 

[woody 73]

This topic seems to come up a lot on the GJ; again it is not the name you look for instead it is the after service from your dealer that you look for.

Davis James 78 you did not list your home town, so start by asking around Who is the best dealer in your home town for after service care and when you find that name stop by and buy from them.

Talk to them about the chainsaw that will best fit your needs and will they stand by you when you need it fixed without any hassles.

Best advise I can give you for free.

 

[bigjeff94]

My family runs an outdoor wood boiler so does my grandma's house and my uncles so our saws get used pretty heavily. I have a 55 rancher Husqvarna my dad has a 455. The 455 is still considered a homeowner saw but it is pretty impressive. It's got a bit more torque than my 55. My uncle runs a 372xp, now that's a saw but your gonna pay for it. Also we all have a 142xp with a 16 inch bar real nice little saws for lighter work.

 

[LB-1911]

Hello guys.

I've come here to find advice.
I'm currently looking around the market to try & find a chainsaw to help me in some work I want to undertake in the yard of my newly purchased property. I originally thought about paying somebody to do it for me, but I have now come up with the idea of doing it myself & turning it into my own little project.

The yard to the rear has become a little overgrown over time & the only thing I can think of the help with the larger elements of a garden would be a chainsaw. As you will be able to tell from the image at the bottom, there is a large tree that is draped over the garden next door which I wish to get rid of, but to cut costs, I would like to do it myself.

I have looked at some different chainsaws & brands & as I don't know if I will be using it again, I don't want to spend a lot of money on it. With that said, I still want the chainsaw to be of a good standard.

Here are the different chainsaws that I have looked at so far:
- http://www.husqvarna.com/uk/products/chainsaws/236/966639901/
- http://www.screwfix.com/p/titan-ttl632chn-40cm-1-9hp-35cc-petrol-chainsaw/3147h
- https://heckler-power.com/product/58cc-petrol-chain-saw/

Which would you recommend for the job that I am looking at doing?
Also, any other tips you have to help better the garden would be greatly appreciated!

Thank you!!

That could be managed with a Sazall® aka reciprocating saw with a pruning blade or the aforementioned electric chainsaw.

Examples of a few pruning blades available on this side of the pond -

9 in. x 5-Teeth per in. Fleam Ground-Pruning Reciprocating Saw Blade (5-Pack)
http://www.homedepot.com/p/Diablo-9...rocating-Saw-Blade-5-Pack-DS0905FG5/203464786

12 in. 4/5 TPI Pruning Sawzall Reciprocating Saw Blade
http://www.homedepot.com/p/Milwauke...-Reciprocating-Saw-Blade-48-00-1305/202256182

SKIL 94100-05 Pruning Reciprocating Saw Blades, 5-Pack
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B000BMBPGU/?tag=atomicindus08-20

Good Luck

 

[anndel]

I have a Stihl MS-180 for 2 years now and it tackled trees with a 12 in diameter and shrubs like cutting through butter. Since I don't use it much now I run it every month for 5-10 minutes.

 

[drink]

Hello guys.

I've come here to find advice.
I'm currently looking around the market to try & find a chainsaw to help me in some work I want to undertake in the yard of my newly purchased property. I originally thought about paying somebody to do it for me, but I have now come up with the idea of doing it myself & turning it into my own little project.

The yard to the rear has become a little overgrown over time & the only thing I can think of the help with the larger elements of a garden would be a chainsaw. As you will be able to tell from the image at the bottom, there is a large tree that is draped over the garden next door which I wish to get rid of, but to cut costs, I would like to do it myself.

I have looked at some different chainsaws & brands & as I don't know if I will be using it again, I don't want to spend a lot of money on it. With that said, I still want the chainsaw to be of a good standard.

Here are the different chainsaws that I have looked at so far:
- http://www.husqvarna.com/uk/products/chainsaws/236/966639901/
- http://www.screwfix.com/p/titan-ttl632chn-40cm-1-9hp-35cc-petrol-chainsaw/3147h
- https://heckler-power.com/product/58cc-petrol-chain-saw/

Which would you recommend for the job that I am looking at doing?
Also, any other tips you have to help better the garden would be greatly appreciated!

Thank you!!

It sounds like you do not have any experience with a chainsaw or tree removal. Let's start off by asking you how much the tree service is going to charge. Then let's ask how much a chainsaw cost, how much it will cost to haul off the tree, and who owns the big fence. So far, I am thinking I would recommend paying the tree service to do the job because I don't really think you'll be saving much money. Not to mention the risk involved if you hurt yourself or damage the surrounding property. If the tree service was too high you can always get more estimates and make sure the tree service is insured.

 

[McFarmer]

My mid-range Husqvarna disappoints me, lots of plastic where there should be metal. The chain brake broke and was removed, the handle is loose and the throttle sticks closed.

The two older Echo saws I have have been very good, they may not be of equal quality now.

 

[MrGiggles]

A Stihl MS170/180 sounds like it would fit the bill for you. You don't need a big saw for trimming, it will just wear you out faster. They're under 200 bucks if I remember right.

Echo and Tanaka make good smaller saws as well, if you have a dealer nearby.

 

[drink]

During my lifetime I have cut quite a few trees myself, and I have had quite a few tree services to cut, chip, and haul off trees. When I cut them myself I prefer to use a Stihl Pro grade chainsaw.

That tree looks like it would be a booger to cut down on level ground. The terrain looks steep to hilly. From looking at the picture it looks like some climbing would be necessary and it possibly would involve some roping with a few helpers to get it down safe.

Either of my saws in the pictures should do the job but I don't know the diameter of the trunk of the tree. These saws have 16" and 18" bars. My chains are as sharp as razor blades and they make excellent time.

 

[finn]

May as well skip right to the post that says you need a Stihl MS461 Magnum with a 35" bar, because anything that isn't a monster Pro saw made in Germany is a worthless pos.

That's usually where these threads end up going to.

Just like your roof has to be constructed of 3/4" plywood with trusses on 12" centers or your house will fall down and you need Snapon wrenches or you either may hurt yourself or you will never be able to get warranty coverage if the tool fails 40 years from now and you may have to buy a new one.

 

[Stevenn1]

I got a STIHL MS362.
It came with a 25" bar.
No issues.

 

[CarBikeGuy70]

Stihl makes a great saw- I have an 028AV that has done more work than you can imagine. A 16" bar is more than enough for most jobs. ( yes I have an 18" as well) The most critical part is to have the correct sharp chain for the job. Purchase from an indy power equipment shop- be careful, respect the saw and don't get into a problem without a way out. You will never regret the purchase of a mid level (not homeowner) or above Stihl saw.

 

[merr6267]

I vote for electric.
That's coming from a guy that currently owns 9 professional chainsaws.
If you don't use it for property cleanup (acres of it) or firewood, I don't see the need for gasoline power (petrol). They need maintenance of the fuel system, fuel storage, etc. If you're only going to use it once per year for cleaning up small stuff, I can't recommend any model with an engine. It'll only lead to disappointment.

Now, if you must, and this is a tool enthusiast site . . . I recommend something that is supported by a local dealer network. In no particular order are a few very respectable brands:
Dolmar (Makita), Husqvarna, Echo, Efco, Stihl, Redmax, Jonsered (same as Husqvarna now).

Each of them make fins saws that are sometimes classified in 2-4 categories of "quality" and generally 4 classes of size.

Quality:
1. Occasional homeowner
2. Property owner/Farm
3. Farm/Semi-pro
4. Professional

Size:
1. 40cc (class) - light homeowner all the way to professional tree climber
2. 50cc (class - homeowner to professional ground work
3. 60cc (class) - farmer to professional feller/groundman
4. 70cc (class) - professional felling/bucking
5. 80-128cc (classes) - heavy felling/bucking/milling.

Realistically you're looking at a class 1 in both cases. (these are not industry classes, just my interpretation) I'd say that 16" bar would be your max desired bar length out of a 40cc homeowner unit.

I prefer to under-bar my saws, but you can occasionally run longer bars on some saws. The limitations come from engine power and oil delivery capability.

In the 40cc class unless you're buying a high dollar climbing or limbing saw you're looking a plastic cranksase, a non-adjustable oiler, potentially limited re-buildability and other limitations that will not prevent normal use.
One trouble with these deals is that novice users tend to abuse these saws unwittingly. The chain gets dull (any time it's not easily throwing chips, not dust) and the user continues to force it to cut. This works the engine longer and harder. The clutch will heat up and put heat into the crank and the surrounding areas. The rubber seal will then get brittle and then you develop an air leak that will scrub the piston to the cylinder wall. That's when you bring it to the dealer and hope for mercy and say that xyz brand saws are junk.

A pro-saw, while not immune to abuse, is generally easier and cheaper to repair, as that's what they were designed for.

Have I convinced you to buy electric yet?

Avoiding safety talks for the moment, the best thing you can do for a saw is to keep the chain sharp.

Good luck,
Phill

 

[cashishift]

Stihl

 

[theoldwizard1]

And to that point... OP, have you considered an electric chainsaw?

I CONCUR !

It sounds like you are not likely to use this tool very often a petrol (gas) saws don't store well (unless you drain them completely).

Buy a spare chain. When the first one get dull you can quickly swap in the second one and take the first out to be sharpened.

 

[Kenskip1]

Sir the 236 is a relabeled Poulan. Get the Husqvarna 436 instead.This is a better built saw.

 

[jipps]

Hi, welcome!

So, first off, you need to get your location into your profile so that people can help you... you've posted some UK links, but have said "yard" instead of "garden"... I'm going to assume you're in the UK and were merely translating

So, chainsaw without spending money. You've a one-time clearance job here. I would not be looking at a budget petrol saw - it will be cost-manufactured to a finite life in hours; it will likely be a bit brutal to start and will mean fiddling about with petrol, oil, mixing bottles etc...

I have multiple saws, and for your requirements I wouldn't hesitate to recommend Screwfix's Titan TTB355CHN 40.5cm 2000W Electric Chainsaw 230V (Product Code: 92771).

This comes with an oregon bar & chain. It will cut for you better than the petrols you're looking at, whilst costing half the price (buy a big extension lead if you need it, and make sure to fully unspool it prior to operation). It will last longer than a £100 petrol saw.

Good luck, and make sure you read up on how to cut (compression vs tension and so on) before you run the thing

Let us know how you get on

 

[NJ20]

I purchased an Echo CS-352 a couple of years ago. Its a great little saw with plenty of power and surprisingly light. Stihl is OK but if you are only going to use it for a project here and there why spend the money. For what its worth I have used Stihl saws working as a landscaper years ago. I really don't get what all the hype is about. I know I'll get flamed for it but they always were a ***** to start and in the shop half the time.

 

[bamatj]

I have used alot of saws. If you are not spending the money to buy a pro saw to make a living with I would look at echo. You will not go wrong with one. Mine has set for long periods, dump gas out, refill with fresh gas, and pull 2 or 3 times. Also as people have already pointed out, most chainsaw threads end up like bigger is better. I would hate to cut small brush all day with a 60-70cc saw. But I kinda like my back. If I was you I would check out a echo cs400, and maybe even saws smaller than that. 1 or 2 pounds adds up quick on a saw when its 90 degrees out and you are bent over cutting brush. I bought a brand new Stihl home owner saw a couple of years ago. Never again.

 

[cgrutt]

I don't have any experience with Echo chainsaws but I own several Echo small gas garden tools (backpack blower, hedge trimmer & line trimmer) and they always seem to start right up and run great. I sold my two Husqvarna saws for two Stihls. I like the Stihls much better but there was nothing wrong with the Husky's. Couldn't go wrong with any of these brands IMO.

However, sounds to me that you may not have that much experience with a saw. Felling a tree is alot different than bucking one up that has fallen down. Alot can go wrong very quickly. You may want to reconsider doing this on your own vs calling in a professional, esp. if you are only going to use the saw for this one job. Stay safe.

 

[CNGsaves]

If OP is just removing that little dead tree on right side of property . . .
. . . . . whip out Sawzall (reciprocating saw) and chop off all the limbs.

Use shovel and start digging out giant hole to get to all the roots. Use ax or Sawzall to cut off roots underground. Topple over the trunk of tree and if too big to haul out of there, THEN you may need to ask friend/neighbor to help cut up the trunk.

For one-time use . . . you'd be better off NOT buying a chain saw that will sit afterwards.

 

[D. Patina]

I have a Husqvarna 350 that I bought new in 2004. I've taken care of it and used only quality high octane premixed fuel. Still runs great. I've gone through a number of light duty home owner saws and they just weren't enough for me.

 

[CJM8515]

I have used stihl, husky and echo. Echo has some nice stuff and its cheaper than the other 2. Stihl IDK why is always a pain to get started and husky is nice with no issues and easier to start.

I DO NOT condone buying any saws at any big box home center stores, they are cheaper made junk. Buy saws at the local mom and pop store.

 

[barrybeefburger]

Find a friend with a saw, by them a case of stella, job done, with the money saved put it towards a decent strimmer.

 

[drink]

May as well skip right to the post that says you need a Stihl MS461 Magnum with a 35" bar, because anything that isn't a monster Pro saw made in Germany is a worthless pos.

That's usually where these threads end up going to.

Just like your roof has to be constructed of 3/4" plywood with trusses on 12" centers or your house will fall down and you need Snapon wrenches or you either may hurt yourself or you will never be able to get warranty coverage if the tool fails 40 years from now and you may have to buy a new one.

It sounds like the place has really started to get under your skin. Yep, there are tools that some use once and throw them away. Then there are quality tools that are built to last. My Wood Boss Stihl saw is 30 years old and it still runs good. I cannot begin to tell how many trees have been cut with it other than a lot of them. It sounds like you are wrapped too tight about people who are willing to pay for quality tools.

 

[pauls_workshop]

I highly recommend the Echo modern chainsaws. I have used a CS-590 for a year now and also got a small CS-310 a month back for trim work. Echo's are built to the same level of quality as the best pro saws like Stihls, Huskvarnas, or others and made in Japan. They are not as ideal a power/weight ratio as most of the expensive pro saws, but for homeowner use, what does an extra pound of weight matter. I just love mine and planning to get more in the future. Great deals on these when Zoro has their rare 30% off flash sales. - Paul

 

[drink]

A nice pole saw might be a good tool to use along with some roping as needed.

 

[rick carpenter]

A Stihl MS170/180 sounds like it would fit the bill for you. You don't need a big saw for trimming, it will just wear you out faster. They're under 200 bucks if I remember right.

Echo and Tanaka make good smaller saws as well, if you have a dealer nearby.

I've got a MS170 with a 16" bar. It's all the saw I need now for cutting firewood for my smoker. I do not yet have any chaps, but they are coming soon. From what I've read, electric chainsaws will keep cutting if they come in contact with clothing & skin underneath while chainsaw chaps are designed to tangle fibers in gas chainsaws in the sprocket and kill the motor. Thank goodness my crappy little electric Homelite 12" crapped out on me.

 

[Johnny Generic]

No no no
not another which chainsaw thread again!!!!!!!!!!! :

 

[finn]

I highly recommend the Echo modern chainsaws. I have used a CS-590 for a year now and also got a small CS-310 a month back for trim work. Echo's are built to the same level of quality as the best pro saws like Stihls, Huskvarnas, or others and made in Japan. They are not as ideal a power/weight ratio as most of the expensive pro saws, but for homeowner use, what does an extra pound of weight matter. I just love mine and planning to get more in the future. Great deals on these when Zoro has their rare 30% off flash sales. - Paul

It sounds like the place has really started to get under your skin. Yep, there are tools that some use once and throw them away. Then there are quality tools that are built to last. My Wood Boss Stihl saw is 30 years old and it still runs good. I cannot begin to tell how many trees have been cut with it other than a lot of them. It sounds like you are wrapped too tight about people who are willing to pay for quality tools.

I've actually got an MS 460, as well as a couple of Stihl Wood Boss, a Husky, a couple of Poulans (the 3800 is actually a nice, albeit somewhat dated saw) a Jonsered, an Echo, and a few more, as well as a comprehensive selection of Snapon and miscellaneous other brands. I have high end, pro brands in the mix because I want them, but I would never recommend them to someone as an occasional use or starter tool.

The issue is that the op is looking for essentially a one time use tool, which half of the posters can't comprehend.

The guys recommending a rental, an electric, or a sawsall pruning blade are on the right track.

My Stihl MS460 has probably cut more trees than most of the posters here have seen, but a pro saw isn't the right tool for tidying up a back yard garden in jolly old England.

 

[Aerogt01]

During my lifetime I have cut quite a few trees myself, and I have had quite a few tree services to cut, chip, and haul off trees. When I cut them myself I prefer to use a Stihl Pro grade chainsaw.

That tree looks like it would be a booger to cut down on level ground. The terrain looks steep to hilly. From looking at the picture it looks like some climbing would be necessary and it possibly would involve some roping with a few helpers to get it down safe.

Either of my saws in the pictures should do the job but I don't know the diameter of the trunk of the tree. These saws have 16" and 18" bars. My chains are as sharp as razor blades and they make excellent time.

Good to see another MS260 Pro! I have that saw sitting in pieces on my workbench right now getting cleaned up and waiting on a carb rebuild kit.

As for the OP, I'd recommend the electric chainsaw route, if you have any experience with a chainsaw. Hard to tell how big the trunk is at the ground, so I hesitate to recommend the sawzall method.

If you have other areas where you will be cutting, then I can definitely understand a gas model. Just this once? Rent an electric.

 

[cheechi]

If you are the kind of person that can make or appreciate a relationship, get a Stihl from a real dealer (not from a retail store that also sells Stihl, but from a Stihl dealer)

If you are antisocial like me get a Husq 435. You can buy an 18" bar and make it a 440 cheaper than spending up to get a 440, and you have options. Or I guess you could buy a 440 and get a 16" bar/chain if you want. I have read you can get a 14" for it also but I haven't found one, haven't really looked.

Or the 5020AV Poulan. If you like to pull for the underdog it's like the one *********** in the box of cremes.

I went from a 18" poulan to the Husq 220 (200 series something, in case I don't remember the right model). I sold the first two when I got the 435. Then picked up the 5020 as a secondary to keep at my parents.

The 435 might be too much saw for a lot of tasks, Stihl's smaller saws are much better than Husq's smaller ones nowadays. But it works for me, the guys I go to for repairs too big for me to handle don't have the cutesy mom & pop bs about them it's all paperwork pay & go.

 

[pauls_workshop]

Or the 5020AV Poulan. If you like to pull for the underdog it's like the one *********** in the box of cremes

Yeah, the 5020 AV Poulan is really a Husqvarna rancher and a good cheap saw for what it is. Well called. I wasn't real clear on what the OP was trying to do and not sure what is available across the pond. I like Echo, but a Poulan might be just fine for him. - Paul