What design to build on slab?

[dvups1]

Hello, I love this site. It give me so many ideas and inspiration.

The property I bought has a small concrete slab and I have been thinking of framing up a storage area for my yard tools.

The only thing I no for sure is it measures 12' 2" x 13' 9".

Any thoughts on wall height or roof pitch or general design?

I would like it to use a standard single car garage door.

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[seanc_mt]

2x6 walls 9 feet tall. Need to know your location for a good design. Snow load here in Montana is 65 lbs per sq in. Florida... not so much.

 

[dvups1]

I'm in DFW Texas. No real snow issues here.


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[rburke65]

What design? How about 4 walls and a roof? No idea. Do you want it to match your house? Match my house? How tall of a door will you need? That will determine your wall height. Windows? Any HOA to consider?

 

[tjdux]

Small post frame building. Get 4x4 posts 8ft and 10ft tall. Make lean too style slant roof from 10 down to 8 ft. That gives lots of height for tools, shelves everything.

Get a 8ft wide x 7ft tall metal roll up door. Super easy to install and cheap.

Use concrete post anchors to hold the posts to the pad. Then put purlins on the posts and hang metal ribbed siding.

For the roof raftera just put on hurricane brackets every 16 inches on center and put 2x6s, purlins, then metal roof.

Done.

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[Falcon67]

Just a big dog house - 2x4x8' walls, HardiPanel or LP SmartSide nailed right to the studs. Use up to a 6 pitch and the rafters will still be regular 8' boards cut to length including a 12" overhang.

Post frame chews up too much lumber for this area IMHO. With plates and stud walls you could have a 12x13 dry including shingles in a single day.

 

[Brian_WK]

Small post frame building. Get 4x4 posts 8ft and 10ft tall. Make lean too style slant roof from 10 down to 8 ft. That gives lots of height for tools, shelves everything.

Get a 8ft wide x 7ft tall metal roll up door. Super easy to install and cheap.

Use concrete post anchors to hold the posts to the pad. Then put purlins on the posts and hang metal ribbed siding.

For the roof raftera just put on hurricane brackets every 16 inches on center and put 2x6s, purlins, then metal roof.

Done.

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For a post frame like this when your walls don't go to the edge of the slab what do you do to prevent water intrusion from getting under the structure wall on the concrete and into the building?

Brian

 

[lakeroadster]

Any thoughts on wall height or roof pitch or general design?

Form follows function. I'd proceed with caution.

Imagine sinking thousands of dollars into a very nice structure and then the slab starts to settle from the weight. It was likely just poured on top of the existing dirt.

That being said, if it is merely going to be a garden / tool shed and nothing of substantial weight will be stored look at a pre-built shed. It's hard to build one for the price you can buy one in the size you are contemplating.

 

[ard]

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Looks like regular untreated lumber against the concrete. (The X shaped framing for shear.) And those posts seem to be on a plain sheet metal base without a standoff. I like keeping water/moisture away from all wood.....

 

[GMCGarage]

For a post frame like this when your walls don't go to the edge of the slab what do you do to prevent water intrusion from getting under the structure wall on the concrete and into the building?

Brian

And take those X braces up to the roof, and into the corners.

 

[tjdux]

Looks like regular untreated lumber against the concrete. (The X shaped framing for shear.) And those posts seem to be on a plain sheet metal base without a standoff. I like keeping water/moisture away from all wood.....

It was just leftover 2x4s for the x braces and on pole buildings theres no code requirements where I live. It didnt need them at all and most don't have any x bracing.

I assure you its plenty stiff since the sheer strength comes from the shething anyways.

The posts are anchored with post anchors. Seems fine to me. Besides the interior of the building stays dry anyways

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[tjdux]

Looks like regular untreated lumber against the concrete. (The X shaped framing for shear.) And those posts seem to be on a plain sheet metal base without a standoff. I like keeping water/moisture away from all wood.....

Also the bottom purlin board is treated and sealed to the pad

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[kbs2244]

Go to the book display at your local home improvement store and get one of the shed books.
They will have PICs and how to build instructions for all kinds of styles.

 

[Brian_WK]

It was just leftover 2x4s for the x braces and on pole buildings theres no code requirements where I live. It didnt need them at all and most don't have any x bracing.

I assure you its plenty stiff since the sheer strength comes from the shething anyways.

The posts are anchored with post anchors. Seems fine to me. Besides the interior of the building stays dry anyways

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I wasn't stating anything I was inquiring. Im looking at building a small shed on a large pre existing patio but I am not sure how I would keep water from running into the building when it rains with a post construction. I thought maybe you sealed a flashing to the slab or something later in the build. Just curious.

Thanks

 

[Brian_WK]

Also the bottom purlin board is treated and sealed to the pad

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Ahh i was just wondering in my question above this. I was too late to quote it though.

Thanks!

Brian

 

[tjdux]

Ahh i was just wondering in my question above this. I was too late to quote it though.

Thanks!

Brian

No problem. Yeah its just a bead of silicone on the bottom purlin board. Also as noted above they do make a 4x4 post bracket that is raised .5 inch off the ground that i maybe should have used but I wasn't super worried about it.

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[Falcon67]

I would dispute this, at lease using local prices. 10x12 wood shed with a couple of doors and a small window runs $2400 over at Lowes. I can build one hell of a "shed" for $2400.

For water infiltration control on the OP's slab, I would silicone the plates and use HardiPanel siding, letting it hang over the seam just a bit. Follow with a ditch round the slab filled with gravel to drain water away. I did that on my old shop because the contractor for the slab poured it right on ground level. I could not be there because of business, so I got what I got.

 

[tjdux]

I would dispute this, at lease using local prices. 10x12 wood shed with a couple of doors and a small window runs $2400 over at Lowes. I can build one hell of a "shed" for $2400.

For water infiltration control on the OP's slab, I would silicone the plates and use HardiPanel siding, letting it hang over the seam just a bit. Follow with a ditch round the slab filled with gravel to drain water away. I did that on my old shop because the contractor for the slab poured it right on ground level. I could not be there because of business, so I got what I got.

Agreed with price on decent shed kits. Thats why i built mine. For what i paid to build my little shed would have bought me a shed i couldn't stand up in and no concrete floor.

But that probably differs based on location.

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[lakeroadster]

I would dispute this, at lease using local prices. 10x12 wood shed with a couple of doors and a small window runs $2400 over at Lowes. I can build one hell of a "shed" for $2400

Your time is worth how much $$$?

I'm retired, so I get your point, my labor is pretty much free now.... But back when I was working I always preferred to have the trained professionals do their magic on such projects... while I went to work and fed the machine.

We've got a local place here that builds sheds, and they do a great job on them. I'm always amazed at just how cost effective they are, with quality that far exceeds Home Depot and Lowes.

 

[tjdux]

Your time is worth how much $$$?

I'm retired, so I get your point, my labor is pretty much free now.... But back when I was working I always preferred to have the trained professionals do their magic on such projects... while I went to work and fed the machine.

We've got a local place here that builds sheds, and they do a great job on them. I'm always amazed at just how cost effective they are, with quality that far exceeds Home Depot and Lowes.

I hear those points too. My time is worth a lot to me but im also pretty broke. Also keeping my stuff nice is a huge priority for me which boils down to DIY most of the time.

I figured my little shed would have cost 40-60% more so I saved 1800-2.4k plus I learned a whole bunch. Next building i build will be that much better.

Having a local place that builds sheds like that is probably amazingly more cost effective if you can buy and cut out middle men. There's places here that sell them but they are not cheap. Heck my first choice was a 20ft cargo container but city wont allow that.

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[TractorJeff]

I studied them at a Home Depot about 10 years ago. I found that you can indeed build a really nice shed for the posted price as long as your Labor is FREE!