What did you base your purchase on

[ffr3247r]

With the various options available thru the vendors here how did you base your decision. I’ve been reading for weeks on what to use and who and am no closer to making a decision.

1500sq ft

New concrete poured back in July. Power troweled. Never had anything On it.

Looking for grey with flake. Will park cars but no “real” work. I own a 6 bay garage across town for that. Other side will have the usual yard equipment and typical garage junk.

Not sure what to do and who to use.

Thanks

 

[aggie113]

Mine was based on what I could do without renting equipment or having to prep the concrete. So, water based color, hardener and the stain resistance.

 

[SolarColumbia]

It can depend on the condition of your concrete. In my case there is significant deicer damage so stain, densifier, clear coating are insufficient. I've done polyurea repair and now must grind and apply epoxy primer followed by polyurea solid color and then clear.

 

[Armorpoxy]

Hi,
If your floor is very smooth/burnished from power troweling, you probably should grind first. If you grind you need to definitely use a matching epoxy primer for your choice of coating. We carry these but whatever your choice, prep is the most important step!

 

[ffr3247r]

Is there a way to determine if the surface is too smooth. I’d like to not have to grind.

Floor has never had anything on it in the way of cars or equipment. It’s “virgin” concrete.

 

[FJ4FUN]

We always encourage mechanical grinding for prep under our 100% solids coatings. That being said a properly executed acid/chemical etch can work as well if your concrete has not had any sealers applied. Many of our customers go this route.

 

[benwah]

If your floor does not already feel like 60 grit sandpaper, you should grind if applying a coating system over 12mils thick, which you'd be doing. If you MUST acid etch, be sure to do an excellent job and pay special attention to the perimeter and inside corners. That goes for the neutralization as well.

With acid etching you will be introducing a ton of water to the slab so it will need adequate time to dry. If you are in a cold climate and garage isn't heated this may take longer than normal. After the etch you must be sure that the slab will absorb water as well.

I'd suggest a waterborne epoxy primer.

 

[FJ4FUN]

Wolverine Coatings' BondTite 1101 does not require a bone dry substrate after etching. It can be applied over damp concrete. As long as there is no standing water and the concrete starts to lighten up in patches it is good to go.

This does NOT mean that it should/could be applied over concrete with excessive, ongoing moisture vapor transmission situation.

 

[Kaizen]

Is there a way to determine if the surface is too smooth. I’d like to not have to grind.

Floor has never had anything on it in the way of cars or equipment. It’s “virgin” concrete.

Grind. For the cost of epoxy it’s worth it.
For my decision I based it on diy price. You pay for what you get this was all on me if it sucked. I went with “epoxy-coat”. It’s most likely a step below the lines sold here but for a home working garage that’s fine for me. If you are paying for someone to do it then go with what they guarantee.
Figure out your expectations and go from there.
Example. The guy that wants a glass finish to park his collector cars on and show off will need different then me that welds and spills things in mine.
Get a good product and a good install and you will be happy for a long time. Cheap out or screw it up and it’s going to be a mess.



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