What do I do with the blue thingy?

[Tony_F]

Concrete question - What do I do with the blue thingy?

Hi folks,

In the process of replacing part of my garage floor with the pad size recommend by BendPak for one of their lifts.

Water line for the hose bibs runs under where the new thicker pad will be, my question is anyone ever put a pex splice under concrete? I don’t want the pex thru the middle of the new slab, it needs to go under and the only way to get enough slack to push it down is to cut and lengthen that section of pex.

I’ve seen plenty of pex splices underground and have even done a few that way, but never seen one under concrete.

Thanks!

 

[Tony_F]

Realizing it may not be up to code in some locations, here is what I found....

Installing A Zurn PEX XL or Zurn PEX CR Fitting Under Concrete

As a matter of good practice, it is best to avoid placing fittings in an area where concrete would have to be removed if repairs are necessary. However, there are occasions at which burying a fitting in or under concrete is unavoidable. When circumstances warrant the burial of a Zurn PEX fitting in or under concrete, it is necessary to follow two important guidelines in order to prevent compromising the integrity of the system.

1. A proper connection must be made.

2. The fitting connection must be protected from corrosion induced by contact with the surrounding soil or concrete. There are three different methods that Zurn recommends as a means of protecting buried fittings from corrosion.

Foam Pipe Insulation – Foam Pipe Insulation can be used as an effective method of covering the fitting and clamp rings from corrosion. For proper application please refer to manufacturer instructions.

Plastic Film – Several layers of a plastic film such as Saran Wrap may be used to cover the fitting and clamp rings without damage to the tubing. While the film generally sticks to itself, to make sure that the film stays in place during installation, tape should be wrapped around the film at the body and the ends of the fitting. Note: The tape should not come in contact with Zurn PEX tubing.


Heat Shrink Sleeves – Heat Shrink sleeves are only used to protect couplings. The sleeve should be placed on Zurn PEX tubing and moved away from the crimp area prior to making....

 

[rlitman]

Trench under where the concrete pad is going. Extend the PEX enough to bury it in the trench. Wrap it in foam pipe insulation, and back fill the trench with sand before you add concrete.

I would be concerned with a metal fitting under the concrete failing due to corrosion.
Stainless clamps can corrode, as can brass fittings and copper crimp rings.

Do you know if you have PEX A, B, or C. Which one you have would determine what connection to use to splice it (NO, not all PEX is the same).

An all plastic connection may be your best bet, but that is only possible with PEX A and an expander fitting. Still, the plastic is not as stretchy as PEX, and so the freeze protection you get from using PEX (which stretches instead of bursts when the water in it freezes) is lost in a fitting. Because of this, you might want to trench the line to under the frost line if possible.

If I had PEX B or C in my house underground, and had to do a splice, I'd use stainless Oetiker clamps and a plastic fitting (though in all other situations, I think I'd feel safer with brass).

 

[Tony_F]

Trench under where the concrete pad is going. Extend the PEX enough to bury it in the trench. Wrap it in foam pipe insulation, and back fill the trench with sand before you add concrete.

I would be concerned with a metal fitting under the concrete failing due to corrosion.
Stainless clamps can corrode, as can brass fittings and copper crimp rings.

Do you know if you have PEX A, B, or C. Which one you have would determine what connection to use to splice it (NO, not all PEX is the same).

An all plastic connection may be your best bet, but that is only possible with PEX A and an expander fitting. Still, the plastic is not as stretchy as PEX, and so the freeze protection you get from using PEX (which stretches instead of bursts when the water in it freezes) is lost in a fitting. Because of this, you might want to trench the line to under the frost line if possible.

If I had PEX B or C in my house underground, and had to do a splice, I'd use stainless Oetiker clamps and a plastic fitting (though in all other situations, I think I'd feel safer with brass).

Thanks. Have no idea what type pex it, but I'll probably do just as you suggested with the trench/pipe insulation, or something very similar. Have until tonight when I get home to decide.

 

[rlitman]

The brand of PEX should be written on the piece you unearthed (or better yet, any other exposed parts). From that, you should be able to determine what type of PEX it is.
If it was just hardware store PEX, it is probably B or C, but as I said, the fitting between A and B/C are not cross compatible. Something to keep in mind, especially in a buried connection.

Maybe you could get a picture of some connections on the ends of the PEX? If the right ones were used, that could be helpful to know.

 

[kaffine]

Are you sure it is PEX and not HDPE/Poly pipe. I know poly is normally black but some areas are color coding underground utilities so it can be found in blue for potable water as well.

I would not splice it under concrete. Is it possible to splice it before it goes under the concrete to get enough slack. The other option would be to sleeve it so it can be replaced without cutting the concrete but I would rather not splice.

 

[Tony_F]

Its pex, thanks -- and as of last night, cut/spliced and covered with pipe insulation near the edge of the new slab, where if I have to get to it, I can cut the old slab. Only needed a few inches to get it at the bottom. Concrete arrives tomorrow.

Will start a new thread on the entire process in the next few days with some pictures.