My 14yo craftsman took a dump on me yesterday. I'm looking at getting a 60 gal 220v unit. What should I be looking for as far as specs and features? What about things to look out for? How much should I lay for a used one? I'll be running impacts, da sanders and sand blasters from time to time.
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what do i need to know about buying a used compressor?
- Thread starter monster1
- Start date
I would recommend a good 2 stage compressor.
Here are a few things to consider:
• Cast iron crankcase and cylinders (as opposed to aluminum)
• Cast iron heads (as opposed to aluminum)
• Steel connecting rods with bearing inserts (as opposed to aluminum rods with no inserts)
• Wrist pins with needle bearings (as opposed to non bearing type)
• 4 rings on each piston (as opposed to 3)
• Tapered roller bearings (as opposed to ball bearings)
• Disc valves (as opposed to reed valves)
• 184T frame 1725 RPM electric motor (as opposed to 56 frame 3450 RPM motors)
• True horse power rated motor (as opposed to “SPL” rated motors)
• Magnetic starter (as opposed to little red push button for overload protection)
• Magnetic starter to carry motor load (as opposed to pressure switch carrying the full load current)
• Centrifugal unloader valve (as opposed to pressure switch unloader)
These features will be found on high quality compressors, but high quality equals high cost.
Just depends on what you’re looking for in a compressor.
Good Luck with your quest!
Here are a few things to consider:
• Cast iron crankcase and cylinders (as opposed to aluminum)
• Cast iron heads (as opposed to aluminum)
• Steel connecting rods with bearing inserts (as opposed to aluminum rods with no inserts)
• Wrist pins with needle bearings (as opposed to non bearing type)
• 4 rings on each piston (as opposed to 3)
• Tapered roller bearings (as opposed to ball bearings)
• Disc valves (as opposed to reed valves)
• 184T frame 1725 RPM electric motor (as opposed to 56 frame 3450 RPM motors)
• True horse power rated motor (as opposed to “SPL” rated motors)
• Magnetic starter (as opposed to little red push button for overload protection)
• Magnetic starter to carry motor load (as opposed to pressure switch carrying the full load current)
• Centrifugal unloader valve (as opposed to pressure switch unloader)
These features will be found on high quality compressors, but high quality equals high cost.
Just depends on what you’re looking for in a compressor.
Good Luck with your quest!
creativecars
Well-known member
Very good information C96.
I would add that you want something with at least 15cfm@90 psi to be able to keep up with the sander and sand blaster.
This is about as cheap as they get... and go up quick from here.
http://www.harborfreight.com/air-to...two-stage-air-compressor-55391.html?hftref=cj
almost the same:
http://www.harborfreight.com/5-hp-60-gallon-165-psi-two-stage-air-compressor-93274.html
I would add that you want something with at least 15cfm@90 psi to be able to keep up with the sander and sand blaster.
This is about as cheap as they get... and go up quick from here.
http://www.harborfreight.com/air-to...two-stage-air-compressor-55391.html?hftref=cj
almost the same:
http://www.harborfreight.com/5-hp-60-gallon-165-psi-two-stage-air-compressor-93274.html
Last edited:
anodyne33
Well-known member
Step 1: Examine tank for rust.
Thanks guys. That's some good info. I think I just want to find a decent used 60 gallon like you find at lowes or harbor freight. Over seen a few on craigslisters for about half of new. I'm not looking to steal one from someone but what do you think a a fair value for these type of compressors?
Last edited:
eddiemeddiem
Well-known member
- Joined
- Dec 19, 2011
- Messages
- 153
Yes, I agree... If you're buying used, take a good look at the tank. Maybe even consider buying a cheap boroscope to look in the drain hole.
About 8 years ago I bought the 60 gal HF 2 stage compressor. Last summer I found an pinhole air leak near the drain that was due to me being lazy and not draining the tank regularly. The pump, motor, and everything else are still fine so I considered buying a tank to mount my pump and motor on. New replacement tanks are near the price of a new complete compressor, and I don't necessarily trust buying a used tank off of CL for fear that the owner never drained it either.
So, I bought a new whole compressor. I'll probably throw the old one on CL "for parts or repair" for ~$400 or so. If no one buys it I won't mind... I'll make myself a smoker out of the tank, and either wire the pump/motor to my current compressor for ~30cfm, or buy a cheap used tank to make a whole compressor and sell it.
Moral of the story - buyer beware when buying a used tank, and invest in an auto drain to avoid my dumb mistake.
About 8 years ago I bought the 60 gal HF 2 stage compressor. Last summer I found an pinhole air leak near the drain that was due to me being lazy and not draining the tank regularly. The pump, motor, and everything else are still fine so I considered buying a tank to mount my pump and motor on. New replacement tanks are near the price of a new complete compressor, and I don't necessarily trust buying a used tank off of CL for fear that the owner never drained it either.
So, I bought a new whole compressor. I'll probably throw the old one on CL "for parts or repair" for ~$400 or so. If no one buys it I won't mind... I'll make myself a smoker out of the tank, and either wire the pump/motor to my current compressor for ~30cfm, or buy a cheap used tank to make a whole compressor and sell it.
Moral of the story - buyer beware when buying a used tank, and invest in an auto drain to avoid my dumb mistake.
Last edited:
theoldwizard1
Well-known member
Knowing that you can buy parts to rebuild the pump is a plus.
redmondjp
Well-known member
Yes, but if you buy the right pump, you should probably not ever have to rebuild it. I've got 25 years on a consumer-grade Rand 4000 and it's still going. It has had light use.Knowing that you can buy parts to rebuild the pump is a plus.
If you're going to use the compressor more frequently, then step up to a higher-life pump such as a Quincy or Saylor-Beall.