What do I need to know for adding Pole building to stick building?

[clcartwr]

I was in the process of planning a new shop which consisted of tearing down my old one and starting from scratch. The more I thought of this plan I couldn't bring myself to tear down the old space as it is still in good condition. So my plans now are to add at least a 30x40x12 space onto the back of my existing 20x24x8 shop. The old shop is stick built (24" oc) with metal siding and I would like to do a pole style building on the back. Here is a quick drawing I whipped up on sketchup.

My question is how do I go about attaching the two buildings? And would the roof lines present a problem as they are drawn? Or would it be easier to do the new shop stick built?

My idea is to remove the back wall of the existing shop, build the pole barn in line with the existing slab and then frame in any left over space.

 

[wedge40]

At first glance, I'd move the door to the end of the building. The smallest amount rain and thats going be a bad place to come and go. Also I'd make sure I have good drainage.

Is there a door out the back to the current building?

Wedge

 

[Cougar]

Can't answer your questions but.
I will say that looks like a good plan.

 

[Toomanytools?]

I'm with Wedge , that man door on the new building is going to get water from both buildings need gutters or move it. Since it is only 12' eve you could easily stick frame, not a big deal to join the two. Good call on keeping the old building.

 

[clcartwr]

There is currently not a door on the back of the building but I do plan to put some sort of door between the two. I'm keeping the old shop uninsulated and it will be for dirty work. I will insulate the new one and want to be able to separate the spaces for more efficient cooling/heating.

I did not think about where the man door was placed. I'll definitely look into a better place for it.

 

[Kevin54]

I'm interested in what the replies will be also. I'd like to add onto mine, and I think pole vs. stick built and foundation would be way easier. I'm curious about tying the two together.

 

[Toomanytools?]

Just put in a header from old to new 8 or 10' wide should be good, then you could do a sliding barn type door. Not totally air tight but you can seal it pretty well with a weather strip it will keep the air from traveling from one cold area to the warm.

 

[Daniel Dudley]

I think you will be butting two independent structures together, neither holding the other up in any way. Then you will be framing the doors into the existing structure and flashing the walls and roof of the original structure under the siding of the pole barn.

You may wind up passing lags or bolts between the structures of the two, but they will still be independent structures. Each will be self supporting at every wall and opening.

 

[clcartwr]

I think you will be butting two independent structures together, neither holding the other up in any way. Then you will be framing the doors into the existing structure and flashing the walls and roof of the original structure under the siding of the pole barn.

You may wind up passing lags or bolts between the structures of the two, but they will still be independent structures. Each will be self supporting at every wall and opening.

That's what I was thinking. My only concern is if I have two separate structures the back wall will end up over a foot thick. Then it seems that framing out the door between the two will become difficult but maybe I'm over thinking it too much.

 

[Toomanytools?]

That's what I was thinking. My only concern is if I have two separate structures the back wall will end up over a foot thick. Then it seems that framing out the door between the two will become difficult but maybe I'm over thinking it too much.

Well instead of butting two boxes together, the new structure can be set inline so the walls are in the same plane. Just imagine extending the old building gable end wall east and west, that would also be the new structures South wall.

 

[Cougar]

Will there be any problems joining the slabs?

 

[clcartwr]

I don't think there would be an issue with the slabs. I plan on inserting rebar into the existing slab and epoxying them in horizontally and then pouring the new slab. This will keep the slabs from shifting up and down.

Yeah I guess I could take down the back wall and truss from the old building and frame the wall up from there. Only thing about that is the new wall would partially be sitting on the old slab and would have to adjust the new slab accordingly. Guess that wouldn't be a bad idea though.

 

[Sureshot]

What about building the new building 4-8' back and leaving a gap or making a walk way in between the buildings?

Joining the roof lines like that is best.

 

[ed_v]

What about building the new building 4-8' back and leaving a gap or making a walk way in between the buildings?

Joining the roof lines like that is best.

That is how I would do it.

Ed

 

[clcartwr]

If I move the building back any more I'll be across my property line. The old shop is only about 3 feet off the line and angled. If I want to keep everything square and in line then 30' deep is my max.

 

[Kevin54]

My question is about the post. Do you put a post right up against the existing stick built structure? And if you do, and my existing structure is drywalled, fo you go inside and remove some drywall to lag the post to the wall, or do you go through the post and lag to a stud? Or can use use a 2x6" on the existing structure nailed in to the stud, then use the 6x6 post on out further? And I have 2' eaves, so the eaves need to be cut off, correct? 10 or 12 years ago I added a 24 x 24 family room on to our house and for the life of me I cant remember what I did at the roof line. Back then I had everything up in 2 says with no problems. today is a different story

I have another idea but I have to find a pic first. Found them.

If I decide to add to the front of something like my garage, and I have a 6' overhang, then a beam underneath, then a two door eave making it 8 foot total, how would one tie into that? Would I cut the section of roof out back to the wall, or would I tie into it the way it is, leave the beam, then come out maybe 24'?

I'd like to do what CLCARTWR proposed in his picture, but my roof is a 4/12 pitch and I'd like to go higher so I could have a hoist. And by no means an I trying to hijack and I apologize for posting my questions in here, but thought it was an appropriate thread to ask as it basically the same thing, and again I apologize.

 

[catuck]

I don't see a problem. You could even build the addition taller if you like, intersecting the two roofs really is not a big deal as long as existing rafters or trusses aren't undersized already. Have the new header engineered - lumber yard may be able to do this. I agree on the rain/door comments - a diverted may be enough or a gutter if needed. Pinning the slabs can't hurt although probably not necessary.