What do I really need? Looking to “upgrade” possibly.

[Bean438]

Hi everyone. This is kind of a broad question and will generate many responses. This is good.

to help out, I’ll tell you who I am, what I do, and what I have. I’ll also try to explain why I “think” I need to upgrade.

any thoughts and input is appreciated.

im old, and getting older. I believe in working smarter, not harder. Daughter is independent so the bank of mom and dad has extra money to spend. By “spend” I mean that I will spend what I have to, but do not want to spend more than I need to. If that makes sense.

I buy quality if needed, and I seek to make things easier as I age. When I spend money I believe buy once cry once, and I always look at future proofing

For a real life example, I use a wall Mount tire rack. I can easily lift the tires up but prepared for future aging. I have eye hooks in the ceiling and use a simple pulley to lift the tires. I bought more pulley than I needed, future proofing and the pulleys can do double duty for recovery/tree, etc. as opposed to a cheap pulley that will handle a 60 lb tire, and having to buy more pulleys.

what do I do? I’m not an advanced mechanic at all. Tire rotations, brakes, alternators, serpentine belts/tensioners, oil changes. Blower/mower repair and maintenance.

I’ll tackle some suspension stuff from time to time.

my tools are basic. Jack/Jack stands. battery testers. All my tools are “general” meaning, standard screw driver “sets”, socket set is a basic “200 piece with spark plug socket” that every store carry’s. I have metric and standard impact sockets. Long ones and alll I’ve used is the 21mm.

I have an air wrench but I use the compressor for nailing. I do tires by hand. I have a 3/8 and 1/2 breaker. I’ve got some hammers for rotors. I e got a small bench grinder.

to be quite honest I’ve been able to do what I need to do with what I have. Tires take a bit longer by hand but I’m thinking the cordless stuff out there is really nice and handy. I’m on the Home Depot ridgid platform.

sometimes the ratchet works, sometimes I need to move things out of the way. I’m thinking it’d be nice to have a pivoting ratchet and possibly some gear driven wrenches.

my socket set is of lower quality and sometime I run out of “clicks”. Less teeth.

I use a c lamp and backing plates to compress pistons. The little ratcheting tool is cheap and would be handy.

just wondering what your recommendations for a killer basic tool setup?

wife says keep using what I got.

the right tool for the job is important but I’m at the point I want the nicest tool for the job within context of my use age.

im partial to Tekton for no real reason. They sell 6 point ratcheting wrenches. No one else seems to and supposedly it’s better?


thoughts?

 

[crewchief888]

I "got by" with what I had available for many years at home. my working tools were locked up at whatever const eq dealer I was working at, no night/weekend access. The older I get, I'll be 64 in a couple months, the less I want to work on stuff after 10-12 hour days. I bought a lot of fab stuff 12 years ago when I was building my off road toy, it's been sitting unused for a while. I don't spend much time in the garage anymore

 

[bscman]

I don't have much insight, except just to buy what you need when you need it... or replace what aggravates you the most when you find a good deal.

Newer fine tooth ratchets are pretty good across the board. The 90 tooth ratchets available from just about everyone are pretty nice. A decent taiwan 90T from most manufacturers should tickle your fancy and last a good while. $20-40 is all you need to spend for a good 3/8 drive these days.

As for tekton ratchet wrenches. I might burst your bubble.
6pt is better in a lot of ways, especially when applying large amounts of torque to a fastener--they're less likely to round off or damage the fastener.
However, high torque situations are far more likely to break the gear mechanism in a ratcheting wrench. Theyre better and stronger now than they were 20 years ago, but they still aren't able to take a lot of abuse.

What's my point?
Well, a 6pt ratcheting wrench is a pain. It's harder/slower to get lined up and seated onto the fastener. Once it's there, you're still using a tool you don't want to really reef on because you're more likely to damage it, so the 6pt advantage becomes a moot point.
My suggestion is to break fasteners loose (especially the stubborn ones) with a regular wrench, then swap over to a ratcheting wrench to zip it the rest of the way out. A 12pt ratcheting wrench, that is quicker to get lined up and get the job done, and there are plenty of decent makes of 12pt ratchet wrenches to find a good set, on sale, inna style you want.

I know a few guys that quickly sold off their 6pt tekton ratcheting wrenches because they simply slowed them down.

That being said, I have plenty of newer tekton sockets and a couple ratchets and I'm very happy with their performance. FYI, they are raising prices Feb 1!!!

 

[Handyandy23]

A cordless impact gun will make your life much easier on a lot of tasks. Ideally you could get a big 1/2" high torque and then a 3/8" stubby style for tighter areas. Not sure what Rigid makes in terms of impacts, but I know they have them. Milwaukee seems to be king of the hill for impacts if you're OK with investing in a new / second battery platform. Milwaukee also makes a right angle impact and some nice battery powered ratchets if you really want to spend some money.

Impacts necessitate impact sockets, which if you don't have could be your "new" sockets, and just keep your current chrome ones for when they're needed.

I would just say upgrade tools as jobs come up, that's how I've acquired most of my tools. If you know you're going to need to do the brakes on your car, make a list of tools needed for the job, and if you're not happy with what you have then buy upgrades. It's still "cheaper" than paying to have it done, and you have the tools for next time. If you get halfway through a job and figure out you need something, as long as it's not a rush or you have a second car, then you can take the time to get the right tool to make it that much easier.

 

[Bighead38]

Where are you from bscman? I’m in the rust belt and wish my gear wrenches were 6 point.

 

[Bean438]

I don't have much insight, except just to buy what you need when you need it... or replace what aggravates you the most when you find a good deal.

Newer fine tooth ratchets are pretty good across the board. The 90 tooth ratchets available from just about everyone are pretty nice. A decent taiwan 90T from most manufacturers should tickle your fancy and last a good while. $20-40 is all you need to spend for a good 3/8 drive these days.

As for tekton ratchet wrenches. I might burst your bubble.
6pt is better in a lot of ways, especially when applying large amounts of torque to a fastener--they're less likely to round off or damage the fastener.
However, high torque situations are far more likely to break the gear mechanism in a ratcheting wrench. Theyre better and stronger now than they were 20 years ago, but they still aren't able to take a lot of abuse.

What's my point?
Well, a 6pt ratcheting wrench is a pain. It's harder/slower to get lined up and seated onto the fastener. Once it's there, you're still using a tool you don't want to really reef on because you're more likely to damage it, so the 6pt advantage becomes a moot point.
My suggestion is to break fasteners loose (especially the stubborn ones) with a regular wrench, then swap over to a ratcheting wrench to zip it the rest of the way out. A 12pt ratcheting wrench, that is quicker to get lined up and get the job done, and there are plenty of decent makes of 12pt ratchet wrenches to find a good set, on sale, inna style you want.

I know a few guys that quickly sold off their 6pt tekton ratcheting wrenches because they simply slowed them down.

That being said, I have plenty of newer tekton sockets and a couple ratchets and I'm very happy with their performance. FYI, they are raising prices Feb 1!!!

Awesome feedback, thanks! Makes it easier too because everyone sells 12 point ratcheting wrenches. I’ll look for the best price.
i definately want flex head ratchets. They would have come in handy several times.

all my sockets are 6 point. And advantage/disadvantage to 6 or 12? maybe stick to 6 point sockets, and 12 point,ratchet wrenches? Does that make sense ?

and I’ll just buy impact sockets from now on. Backwards compatible to non impact usage.

 

[drtyler]

Snap-on SLF80A, or really any 24” flex 1/2” drive ratchet, comes in handy when leverage is necessary to make the job easier.

 

[theoldwizard1]

im old, and getting older. I believe in working smarter, not harder.
...
what do I do? I’m not an advanced mechanic at all. Tire rotations, brakes, alternators, serpentine belts/tensioners, oil changes. Blower/mower repair and maintenance.
...
I’ll tackle some suspension stuff from time to time.

I am right there, age wise ! First, skip the suspension work. Pay someone to do shocks, ball joints etc. Now you have no need for any 1/2" drive sockets, ratchets or breaker bars (mine are over 40 years old and now stored in the back of the bottom drawer, for my son or grandsons).

If you have the itch to spend some of your inheritance, get a Milwaukee M12 3/8" drive stubby and maybe an M12 ratchet. Buy a full set of SAE and Metric regular a deep sockets like Sunex 3342. You will have to add an extra deep socket for lug nuts. If you want to go deluxe, add the Sunex 3657 metric swivel sockets.

For household repairs, you will probably want 1/4" hex drive impact. Get an assortment of short, medium and long Phillips and maybe even Torx bits. A couple of Robertson (square) drive bits might come in handy. Don't forget the hex to square drive adapter.

If you don't already have them, get a 1/4" socket set, SAE and Metric but it must be 6 point ! My set of 1/4" drive stuff is very 50 years old (Craftsman).

 

[theoldwizard1]

Where are you from bscman? I’m in the rust belt and wish my gear wrenches were 6 point.

Over 40 years ago I swore I would never buy another 12 point socket. I have not needed one since then !

I actually have a second set of Craftsman SAE 6 point combination wrenches that I got on a close out.

 

[Bean438]

I am right there, age wise ! First, skip the suspension work. Pay someone to do shocks, ball joints etc. Now you have no need for any 1/2" drive sockets, ratchets or breaker bars (mine are over 40 years old and now stored in the back of the bottom drawer, for my son or grandsons).

If you have the itch to spend some of your inheritance, get a Milwaukee M12 3/8" drive stubby and maybe an M12 ratchet. Buy a full set of SAE and Metric regular a deep sockets like Sunex 3342. You will have to add an extra deep socket for lug nuts. If you want to go deluxe, add the Sunex 3657 metric swivel sockets.

For household repairs, you will probably want 1/4" hex drive impact. Get an assortment of short, medium and long Phillips and maybe even Torx bits. A couple of Robertson (square) drive bits might come in handy. Don't forget the hex to square drive adapter.

If you don't already have them, get a 1/4" socket set, SAE and Metric but it must be 6 point ! My set of 1/4" drive stuff is very 50 years old (Craftsman).

I already have a 1/4” impact.
id have to see if I have a 3/8 for lug nuts. Don’t know why I went with 1/2”. Probably because I didn’t know much.
why m12 over m18? Wouldn’t I want the newest?

id like to stick with ridgid if possible. Lifetime on everything including battery. I wouldn’t rule out m12/18

 

[Bean438]

More random thoughts….

flex head or swivel head ratchet? Same thing different pile? My breaker bars are swivel.
Either would do?

 

[kbeefy]

I don't care for the swivel head stuff, but I think it's a personal preference.
I wasn't a fan of flex head ratchets until I got one with a nice locking mechanism and xl handle, now it's my favorite ratchet.
My main go-to for automotive is a 3/8 hi torque cordless impact gun. Second is a 1/4 impact gun, I see you already have that.

I have both 6 and 12 point sockets and wrenches. They both have their place, I use 6pt when I can but 12 is often more convenient.

Look into a set of 'Mountain' or 'Monster' flex head xl ratchet wrenches. One of my favorites.
I see HF now makes them in the Icon line, as well as some other cheap knockoffs.

Mountain wrenches

 

[JimH74]

I bought my 6 pt ratcheting wrenches from NAPA when they were on a super sale a few years ago. Pleased with the quality, but they do slow you down a little. I'm retired too, and just a DIY, so I do whatever work at the speed I'm most comfortable at.

 

[Snapped-off]

Be careful of catching the GJitis. You'll end up with tools you didn't even know you needed.

Sounds like all your stuff works. No harm in upgrading some of the tools. I'd upgrade ratchets and wrenches and pick up a 1/2" cordless impact. Don't need their biggest high torque model for home. The mid torque would be great.

Ridgid 1/2"

All of this would be more for convenience and niceness to use.

 

[theoldwizard1]

id have to see if I have a 3/8 for lug nuts. Don’t know why I went with 1/2”. Probably because I didn’t know much.
why m12 over m18? Wouldn’t I want the newest?

M12 and M18 are about the same vintage. I think the stubby 3/8" and 1/2" came out at the same time. M12 tools are lighter (easier for us old farts) and but probably need to be recharged more often.

id like to stick with ridgid if possible. Lifetime on everything including battery. I wouldn’t rule out m12/18

Ridgid does not have as wide of selection of tools.

 

[theoldwizard1]

flex head or swivel head ratchet? Same thing different pile? My breaker bars are swivel.

Flex. I don't own a 3/8" breaker bar. My flex head has always been long enough.

 

[M635_Guy]

Having gone through a similar transition (I'm almost 53, so not old, but feeling old...) over the last few years, I'll offer a few thoughts:

- I use a lot less wrenches now that I have impacts and a good set of ratchets and sockets. If your wrenches aren't failing, I'd invest in those other things first. I replaced a squirrely, kinda mismatched set
- My Capri set of thin wrenches were fantastic doing brakes and suspension stuff
- Having a good impact is a revelation. I'd get a mid-torque whatever that's small enough to be useful for brakes/etc. but powerful enough to make suspension stuff easy (and boy is it easier with a good impact). I went 1/2" for the deeper choice of large sockets. I wouldn't bother spending more money than an HF Pittsburgh set.
- A cordless ratchet is pretty damn nice too. For brands, I went Milwaukee. Ryobi would probably be my next choice. Both have such a range of tools and a stable battery platform
- I'd have a core set of ratchets that consist of the following: 3/8" standard and long(er) pearhead. 1/4" and 3/8" roto head. Personally I much prefer a roto-head to a flex-head. I also have multiples in 3/8" and the 1/4" roto to avoid swapping sockets. I like my Tekton and Icon ratchets pretty equally.
- If your sockets need upgrading, same thing - I mostly have Tekton, but my Icon set has been great too. I'd get 1/4" and 3/8" standard, and one set of long sockets in whichever size you think you'll use more. I could easily skip my 1/2" chrome set and use my impact set when needed.
- My biggest investment was a QuickJack, which has been great. I hate the process of getting a car up on stands, and while I still have very nice jack (the HF Daytona Super Duty) and stands, the barrier of entry for motivation to get something started is a lot lower.

I wouldn't bother with fancy caliper presses, etc. I've upgraded to Trusty Cook for deadblows, but the orange HF one never let me down.

Also, I really love the HF carts - the 4 or 5 drawer are both great and make things handy and faster for me.

The balance of saved money and saved time is how I justify (mainly to myself) the money I spend on tools. If it's not easy enough to be fun, I probably wouldn't be doing it much.

 

[Bean438]

M12 and M18 are about the same vintage. I think the stubby 3/8" and 1/2" came out at the same time. M12 tools are lighter (easier for us old farts) and but probably need to be recharged more often.


Ridgid does not have as wide of selection of tools.

True enough, but so far they have everything I need

 

[bscman]

Over 40 years ago I swore I would never buy another 12 point socket. I have not needed one since then !

I actually have a second set of Craftsman SAE 6 point combination wrenches that I got on a close out.

Not the rust belt. PNW

I have all 6pt sockets, and some 6pt combination wrenches as well...

Butnif you're in the rust belt and using ratcheting wrenches to bsuts tuff loose you're probably busting a few gear wrenches too...

 

[Bighead38]

Not the rust belt. PNW

I have all 6pt sockets, and some 6pt combination wrenches as well...

Butnif you're in the rust belt and using ratcheting wrenches to bsuts tuff loose you're probably busting a few gear wrenches too...

I’ve never used a gear wrench to break something free. However I’ve had plenty of times I couldn’t use the gear wrench to run it out because it was 12 point and would round it. Unless you’ve actually worked on old rust belt cars it’s really hard to portray how bad they actually are. These should be the same size. I think I finally hammered on a socket that would bite that was 5 sizes smaller than where I started.

 

[Bean438]

Having gone through a similar transition (I'm almost 53, so not old, but feeling old...) over the last few years, I'll offer a few thoughts:

- I use a lot less wrenches now that I have impacts and a good set of ratchets and sockets. If your wrenches aren't failing, I'd invest in those other things first. I replaced a squirrely, kinda mismatched set
- My Capri set of thin wrenches were fantastic doing brakes and suspension stuff
- Having a good impact is a revelation. I'd get a mid-torque whatever that's small enough to be useful for brakes/etc. but powerful enough to make suspension stuff easy (and boy is it easier with a good impact). I went 1/2" for the deeper choice of large sockets. I wouldn't bother spending more money than an HF Pittsburgh set.
- A cordless ratchet is pretty damn nice too. For brands, I went Milwaukee. Ryobi would probably be my next choice. Both have such a range of tools and a stable battery platform
- I'd have a core set of ratchets that consist of the following: 3/8" standard and long(er) pearhead. 1/4" and 3/8" roto head. Personally I much prefer a roto-head to a flex-head. I also have multiples in 3/8" and the 1/4" roto to avoid swapping sockets. I like my Tekton and Icon ratchets pretty equally.
- If your sockets need upgrading, same thing - I mostly have Tekton, but my Icon set has been great too. I'd get 1/4" and 3/8" standard, and one set of long sockets in whichever size you think you'll use more. I could easily skip my 1/2" chrome set and use my impact set when needed.
- My biggest investment was a QuickJack, which has been great. I hate the process of getting a car up on stands, and while I still have very nice jack (the HF Daytona Super Duty) and stands, the barrier of entry for motivation to get something started is a lot lower.

I wouldn't bother with fancy caliper presses, etc. I've upgraded to Trusty Cook for deadblows, but the orange HF one never let me down.

Also, I really love the HF carts - the 4 or 5 drawer are both great and make things handy and faster for me.

The balance of saved money and saved time is how I justify (mainly to myself) the money I spend on tools. If it's not easy enough to be fun, I probably wouldn't be doing it much.

I’ve been eyeing the quickjack. It’s a want not a need for sure.
not just for tire change but I detail my vehicles. 2 of them and being able to polish the lower areas on a quickjack and pop the tires to clean out the wheel well, priceless. Especially as I age.

I think cordless impact and ratchet makes sense before more wrenches.

I haven’t tried the rav4 serpentine. I can do a practice and see if my current stuff will work.

brake retractor thingie for sure.

 

[M635_Guy]

I’ve been eyeing the quickjack. It’s a want not a need for sure.
not just for tire change but I detail my vehicles. 2 of them and being able to polish the lower areas on a quickjack and pop the tires to clean out the wheel well, priceless. Especially as I age.

Agree it's a luxury vs. necessity. I gave it to myself as a present for my 50th birthday. Since there's full access to the underside, suspension and exhaust work is fine. I do with I had another ~6 in of height, but it's a great tool..

 

[MarvinBerry]

tools are basic. Jack/Jack stands. battery testers. All my tools are “general” meaning, standard screw driver “sets”, socket set is a basic “200 piece with spark plug socket” that every store carry’s. I have metric and standard impact sockets. Long ones and alll I’ve used is the 21mm.

How are you fixed for storage? Do you have a main box or stack? Or is **** scattered all over the shop? Maybe that's a good place to start. Organization.

Nothing wrong with a blowmold set but most of us in this corner of the interknot have a roll box with sockets on rails or trays... including me & I'm not a mechanic.

When I bought my first stack years ago, even before GJ it was because of frustration with worn & lost tools...

got the box rounded up everything I own & dumped it on the benches. Then made piles of stuff... here's all the screwdrivers etc. Then toss anything I wasn't digging... these vice grips are junk etc - donate or recycled.

From there I could make sets of things that had life & put em in the new box. After that, identifying what was good I started filling gaps with new tools where needed.

Wasn't upgrading tools so much as upgrading workspace. Which that move? Upgraded everything.

 

[charbar]

I think you kind of answered your own question....you already know what you have that works for you and what could be a valuable upgrade if you want to spend the coin.

Unless you are turning wrenches all day every day in a professional setting then most cheaper tools will do 90% of what a high dollar one will. There's no need to get rid of perfectly fine screwdrivers, sockets, wrenches etc for more expensive ones unless you are regularly breaking the cheap ones or have a personal beef with them (loose fitting wrenches/sockets causing rounded fasteners etc).

Three things that you mentioned that I could NOT live without are a good cordless impact, ratcheting wrenches, and good fine tooth flex head ratchets. I make a living with these tools everyday though. I'm pretty sure I would find a new profession if I couldn't have these tools though

If you are using jacks and jackstands then invest in a nice short rolling chair if you don't have one. My knees and back are already **** and I still tell myself I'm young. I couldn't imagine being 'old' and still messing around working on something on my knees or being bent over all the time. Better yet, buy a lift. I guess that's one more thing I'd say I couldn't live without.

 

[Bean438]

How are you fixed for storage? Do you have a main box or stack? Or is **** scattered all over the shop? Maybe that's a good place to start. Organization.

Nothing wrong with a blowmold set but most of us in this corner of the interknot have a roll box with sockets on rails or trays... including me & I'm not a mechanic.

When I bought my first stack years ago, even before GJ it was because of frustration with worn & lost tools...

got the box rounded up everything I own & dumped it on the benches. Then made piles of stuff... here's all the screwdrivers etc. Then toss anything I wasn't digging... these vice grips are junk etc - donate or recycled.

From there I could make sets of things that had life & put em in the new box. After that, identifying what was good I started filling gaps with new tools where needed.

Wasn't upgrading tools so much as upgrading workspace. Which that move? Upgraded everything.

I,have the harbournfreight 5k drawer mechanics cart with lid.
eventually I’ll also plywood my walls and instal cabinets. For now it’s cheap 12 x 8” wood,shelf’s

 

[Bean438]

I think you kind of answered your own question....you already know what you have that works for you and what could be a valuable upgrade if you want to spend the coin.

Unless you are turning wrenches all day every day in a professional setting then most cheaper tools will do 90% of what a high dollar one will. There's no need to get rid of perfectly fine screwdrivers, sockets, wrenches etc for more expensive ones unless you are regularly breaking the cheap ones or have a personal beef with them (loose fitting wrenches/sockets causing rounded fasteners etc).

Three things that you mentioned that I could NOT live without are a good cordless impact, ratcheting wrenches, and good fine tooth flex head ratchets. I make a living with these tools everyday though. I'm pretty sure I would find a new profession if I couldn't have these tools though

If you are using jacks and jackstands then invest in a nice short rolling chair if you don't have one. My knees and back are already **** and I still tell myself I'm young. I couldn't imagine being 'old' and still messing around working on something on my knees or being bent over all the time. Better yet, buy a lift. I guess that's one more thing I'd say I couldn't live without.

Thinking of quick Jack. Instead of,jackstands. Totally not needed but I,detail twice a year. Quickjack would be fantastic. Using it for,tire,changeover is a bonus.

was thinking of buying “nice” ratchet handles. Didn’t even give a cordless ratchet a second thought but they seem useful. Same with cordless impacts (3/u and 1/2). Ratcheting wrenches,for,sure.

next time I’m at menards or hf I’ll,stick up. I’m I. Canada. And with Covid who,the hell knows. We need to,test to come back to Canada.

sorry about the weird punctuation. iPad. Not sure what’s up. In bed and don’t feel like,correcting

 

[M635_Guy]

Thinking of quick Jack. Instead of,jackstands. Totally not needed but I,detail twice a year. Quickjack would be fantastic. Using it for,tire,changeover is a bonus.

was thinking of buying “nice” ratchet handles. Didn’t even give a cordless ratchet a second thought but they seem useful. Same with cordless impacts (3/u and 1/2). Ratcheting wrenches,for,sure.

next time I’m at menards or hf I’ll,stick up. I’m I. Canada. And with Covid who,the hell knows. We need to,test to come back to Canada.

sorry about the weird punctuation. iPad. Not sure what’s up. In bed and don’t feel like,correcting

A good impact is, IMHO, a necessity for an even semi-serious DIY'er. I do have two, but my recommendation to you would be to start with one mid-torque. The smaller one I have (Milwaukee M12 Stubby) is another luxury for its size and weight. I use it a ton, but in a funds-constrained world, I'd skip the ratchet to add funds to the QuickJack.

The cordless ratchet is another luxury (though a great one) that I'd add to the "later" list vs. the QJ.

Beyond the relative speed and convenience of the QuickJack, I feel far safer with it as well. I still have a jack and stands, but definitely the QJ is the first option, and my wife is far less nervous too - lol.

 

[Bean438]

A good impact is, IMHO, a necessity for an even semi-serious DIY'er. I do have two, but my recommendation to you would be to start with one mid-torque. The smaller one I have (Milwaukee M12 Stubby) is another luxury for its size and weight. I use it a ton, but in a funds-constrained world, I'd skip the ratchet to add funds to the QuickJack.

The cordless ratchet is another luxury (though a great one) that I'd add to the "later" list vs. the QJ.

Beyond the relative speed and convenience of the QuickJack, I feel far safer with it as well. I still have a jack and stands, but definitely the QJ is the first option, and my wife is far less nervous too - lol.

Milwaukee is very confusing. Almost too many impact choices. I’d like to stick with ridgid as I’m invested in the platform and lifetime warranty is good at the expense of less selection (which is a good thing)

there’s cordless ratchets, and now even 1/2 right angle impacts, lol.

I guess I have to see the Quickjack in person but I think jackstands are safer?? I have the 6 ton us Jack stands.

Quickjack safety is that 1” bar resting on a stop thingie. Is that 1” bar solid. Or tubing? I’ve seen guys put Jack stands under the Quickjack as a second faillsafe.

I don’t even care about Quickjack for minor repairs. I’m think how nice it’d be to polish a car while sitting on a roller chair doing those lower panels. That alone would be worth the price of admission.

as for cordless impact should I buy 1/2, or 3/8 first? I’ve watched some YouTube and the 3/8 is quite capable. I only have 1/2 impacts that I bought for the air wrench. I used it a few times and found it to be a pain to,use. I currently do tires by hand. Breaker bar/ lift/ lugs off/ tire off.

Quickjack/lugs off /tires off sounds like way more fun.

 

[M635_Guy]

Milwaukee is very confusing. Almost too many impact choices. I’d like to stick with ridgid as I’m invested in the platform and lifetime warranty is good at the expense of less selection (which is a good thing)

there’s cordless ratchets, and now even 1/2 right angle impacts, lol.

as for cordless impact should I buy 1/2, or 3/8 first? I’ve watched some YouTube and the 3/8 is quite capable. I only have 1/2 impacts that I bought for the air wrench. I used it a few times and found it to be a pain to,use. I currently do tires by hand. Breaker bar/ lift/ lugs off/ tire off.

Personally, I don't see much value in having both 3/8" and 1/2" impacts as a DIYer. I picked 1/2" so I'd have the biggest sizes available for things like hub nuts/etc. You can certainly use an adapter for a 3/8", but as those can be a little cranky and the adapter robs a bit of power, I went 1/2". Probably a 3/8" with an adapter would be fine, but if you already have 1/2" in-hand I'd stick with that.

My daily-driver is a Mini Clubman, and I just replaced the entire suspension in it without any size/space issues with an M18 Mid Torque Gen2 and the 1/2" sockets. I think this is Rigid's Mid-torque, and it seems like I've heard good things about it. Mainly I'd recommend against a High Impact as they're heavy and huge, and generally overkill (I say this as a guy who originally got a Stubby and High Torque, realized I was bringing a canon to a gunfight and replaced it with a Mid Torque). All the right-angle and other stuff is noise for most DIY'ers, at least as a primary tool.

To give you an idea of size, here's the Milwaukee line when I had the Stubby, Mid and High Torque all at once:

Since then I've replaced the Mid with the Mid Gen2, which is much smaller, and probably similar-ish to the RIGID I linked above.

I guess I have to see the Quickjack in person but I think jackstands are safer?? I have the 6 ton us Jack stands.

Quickjack safety is that 1” bar resting on a stop thingie. Is that 1” bar solid. Or tubing? I’ve seen guys put Jack stands under the Quickjack as a second faillsafe.

I don’t even care about Quickjack for minor repairs. I’m think how nice it’d be to polish a car while sitting on a roller chair doing those lower panels. That alone would be worth the price of admission.

Quickjack/lugs off /tires off sounds like way more fun.

The safety factor with jack stands is the human factor as much as anything - "safer" to me is using the safest spots and repeatably being able to get the car up and secured with them. The QJ uses the factory jacking points and is pretty simple to get right. The geometry of the mechanism and the stop bar (which is beefy) provide the safety, the hydraulics provide a backup. You could still place stands for an additional layer, but as a highly-paranoid person when it comes to a suspended vehicle, I'm very confident in the setup. I still do the shake-test at all corners. Using an impact also means I haven't had to crank anything with a breaker bar/etc. since getting the impact.

As a guy who used to own a company that offered a custom line of polish and wax for detailing, I 100% agree with you on the lower panels scenario too, and of course getting tires off is quick.

The main thing with the QJ is ensuring the two units are parallel (there's some fudge-factor, but I'm using as little of it as possible). Other than that, it's much less stressful/complicated than jack-stands for me, more repeatable, reduces the human-error factor and is as-safe or safer once the car is in the air (I'd argue safer).

 

[m6z]

Cordless impact and ratchet are certainly nice to have.

Some impact sockets to go with them and maybe a flex head ratchet or two.