To avoid these ads, REGISTER NOW!

what doesnt stick to bondo?

AndyL

Well-known member
Joined
Feb 22, 2012
Messages
1,371
Location
Vancouver
Knowledge needed please ;)

Trying to help a customer out - fixing hail damage on unobtanium material (ie fix 4 dings or replace 5 doors so they still match)

But sanded smooth it very obvious where the bondo's been layed - as the rest of the material is textured... So have been trying to press in a similarly textured material... But the bondo invariably sticks to the stamp...

Tried Pam cooking spray, a couple mold release agents, 2 waxes, water, but to some extent the bondo sticks and it comes out looking terrible...

Went as far as redoing the stamp out of the stamp makers rubber and an abs plastic...

Anyone have a genius level release agent that bondo doesn't stick to (and hopefully won't cause paint to never adhere in the future (ie Pam)?

Thanks in advance!
 
Last edited:
To avoid these ads, REGISTER NOW!

Kevin54

MEMBER EMERITUS
Joined
Jan 12, 2005
Messages
29,341
Location
Urbana, Ohio
I hate to say, and it may just be me, but I DON'T have a clue as to what you are talking about.

What are you trying to repair (other than unobtanium ) ?

Is it a car, or something other than that? And do you have any pics?
 
OP
A

AndyL

Well-known member
Joined
Feb 22, 2012
Messages
1,371
Location
Vancouver
Garage door - textured steel... (I did say it - fix 4 dings - or replace 5 doors)
 

ATC

Well-known member
Joined
May 12, 2012
Messages
8,267
Location
VA
I'm not understanding how you would need to replace 5 garage doors (must be a BIG garage!) just for 4 dings? Can't you just replace the door panels that are damaged if you can't match the texture?
 

pop pop

Well-known member
Joined
Apr 1, 2010
Messages
2,859
Location
Virginia
Not gonna happen in my opinion.

Bondo will not stick to cling wrap or whatever you have in your kitchen, but you won't be able to duplicate the texture.
 

Krash Kadillak

Well-known member
Joined
Apr 19, 2011
Messages
4,222
Location
Springfield, Oregon
Still don't understand why you need the bondo not to stick.....
Textured steel door - rough up the dinged area so the bondo does have something to stick to. Use an undamaged area of door to make a mold of the texture. You will need to then make a 'negative' of this mold area to use as pattern to press in to the bondo in the damaged area. Maybe that's where you need a release agent?
 

creativecars

Well-known member
Joined
Nov 15, 2010
Messages
4,300
Location
Indiana- where horse and buggies still roam
Plastic filler needs to be sanded for anything to stick to it. The outer layer (crust) needs to be sanded (its kind of gummy) for primers to stick. I have put texture in things with 36 grit sand paper or crumpled up paper. You might experiment with filling the area with bondo then an epoxy outer layer to add texture to.
 

pepi

Well-known member
Joined
Mar 27, 2013
Messages
2,883
Location
Woodstock, GA
I get what you are saying and everything sticks to bondo, that's what body and painters want and I might add it is very go at it. Anything added to bondo pam, mold release will affect the bonding of the paint. The only way to patten bondo would be to carve it, or buy new doors ~~~~~~~~ but you already know that.

Unobtainium


Idiotic table
General
Name Unobtanium
Symbol Uo
Number 9201
Kinkiness moderate to high
Physical Properties
Melting point 2075 °C, or maybe 2075 °F
Boiling point -7440 °C, or maybe -7440 °F
Tastes Great
unob·ta·ni·um (unob-tayn-ium)

Unobtainium (aka Unobtanium) is a non-existent element used most recently as a science-fiction plot device in the 2009 film, Avatar. In the film, the mineral is alluded to as being a valuable aphrodisiac and ****** superconductor valued at "20 million per carat" (around $17 billion per gram by today’s currency value). It is an extremely sticky material and contact with the male and female genitalia should be avoided. One of the three most common and easily obtained Pandora metals, Unobtanium is a solid element having 16 known isotopes, of which Un 238 is the most naturally abundant. Atomic number 9201; atomic weight 23.06; melting point 1,135°C; boiling point -4,151°C; specific gravity 18.95; gravyty 3476 blokes per squared feet per squared table (or 23.28376234726321002936372) in unamerican units); valences 21, 31, 41, 51, 61. Usually encountered in replacement requirements of durable goods, most notably automobiles and fleshlights, and an essential part of Berlusconi's political career. After its supposed discovery on Pandora, Unobtainium was briefly called Occasionallyobtanium, and then later, Frequentlyobtanium; however, subsequent name changes were eventually abandoned for the sake of brevity.

It should also be noted that spamcake is an unrefined form of unobtanium.


Did you know...
... that the building that you are currently in is most likely not constructed of Unobtainium?
Contents [show]
editDefinition

In science fiction, unobtainium (also spelled unobtanium) is an extremely rare, costly, and physically impossible material slated to fulfill ****** desires, even in users over 100 years of age. The properties of unobtainium depend on the intended use. For example, a ******** using unobtainium would be sticky and frictionless, and thus is contraindicated on ************; however, if used in a fictional nuclear rocket unobtainium would be lighter than air, float at room temperatures, and be resistant to devaluation.

ediUnobtainium

.

Unobtainium


The name — often also spelled as unobtanium — combines unobtainable with the -ium suffix that marks the names of chemical elements.
It goes back a long way. This is how it was defined in its first appearance in print:
A substance having the exact high test properties required for a piece of hardware or other item of use, but not obtainable whether because it theoretically cannot exist or because technology is insufficiently advanced to produce it.

Interim Glossary, Aero-Space Terms, by Woodford Heflin, Feb. 1958, reproduced in Paul Dickson’s A Dictionary of the Space Age, 2009. The glossary was issued by the Air University of the US Air Force. Heflin tagged the word as “humorous or ironical”.
You can see how the engineers in aeronautics and the space program, who were forced to invent novel materials to withstand extreme temperatures, would have had a special need for such a word. Unobtainium has long since become almost a standard term in engineering circles for a material that would instantly solve a tricky design problem, if only it existed.
It can also be some substance that does exist but is too difficult to make or get hold of to be practical; another recent term for such stuff is unaffordium. It also turns up a lot in this sense in sports such as motor racing and mountain biking for highly desirable products that are at the most expensive end of their range:
Besides the state-of-the-art 249cc two-stroke motor that delivered the explosive power that motocross required, the bike was loaded with unobtainium parts, including magnesium hubs, electronic ignition and reed-valve induction.
American Motorcyclist, Oct. 2005.
The term has become much better known among non-specialists following two recent SF films. In The Core of 2003, a mad scientist named Edward Brazzleton invents a metal by that name to withstand the extraordinary temperatures and pressures at the Earth’s core. James Cameron’s Avatar (2009) is set on the distant world Pandora, home to the Na’vi, where humans are mining for the rare mineral unobtainium.
Imaginatively exotic materials whose properties usefully disregard the boring laws of physics have long been features of SF writing, though authors usually prefer to create their own names for them, such as cavorite, kryptonite, scrith, dilithium and carbonite. The term is so well known as an umbrella tag for such materials (along with its close relatives impossibilium and handwavium) that it’s usually employed knowingly or tongue-in-cheek when it does appear:
None of the other moons in the Kthsemenee system had the one attribute this one possessed: a core of almost one percent unobtainium.
 
Last edited:
OP
A

AndyL

Well-known member
Joined
Feb 22, 2012
Messages
1,371
Location
Vancouver
I'm not understanding how you would need to replace 5 garage doors (must be a BIG garage!) just for 4 dings? Can't you just replace the door panels that are damaged if you can't match the texture?

Not uncommon unfortunately, these ones are from a mfg'er that went under back in the 90s... Perfectly fine doors - just now have hail dings...

And two garages - both attached, one to the left, one to the right of the house... One's the shop one's for parking. It's a nice setup... Except in this scenario...
 

Lhorn

Well-known member
Joined
Sep 17, 2008
Messages
1,487
Still don't understand why you need the bondo not to stick.....

I think what he's trying to do is use some form of a stamp to press onto the bondo to mimic the texture of the undamaged door, but when he presses something onto the bondo, it sticks to the "stamp." I think I would fix the dent smooth, prime it then apply some form of texture on top of that. Got a picture of what the texture looks like?
 

badss98

Well-known member
Joined
Jan 24, 2013
Messages
99
Location
adrian,mi
have you tried to remove them like they do at bodyshops, I believe a heat or freeze method. Ive heard freezing can pop out minor dents. Just a thought.
 

shannonw

Well-known member
Joined
Jun 18, 2010
Messages
660
Location
Florida
Just call a car ding guy! bet they'll take them all out for 1-200 and you'll never it was there. Though if it was me i'd tap them from behind and go with it.
 
To avoid these ads, REGISTER NOW!

bczygan

Well-known member
Joined
Nov 4, 2009
Messages
22,002
Location
DETROIT! Arsenal of Scrappers
You need to add another random pattern to the existing one. It needs to be a pattern that matches the hail damage pattern. It needs to be added to all parts of the existing door.

Maybe large ball bearings and a slingshot.

Maybe a shotgun with a reduced powder charge.

Maybe a kid with a metal ball and lots of time...
 

sberry

Banned
Joined
Jun 18, 2005
Messages
35,747
Location
Brethren, Michigan
I would be trying to press all the damage out I could and minimize the repair area. Working out of position doesn't help but the wax idea is so good that might consider applying it to wet paint? Small spots may be fixed with wrinkle finish and not be too noticeable.
 

sberry

Banned
Joined
Jun 18, 2005
Messages
35,747
Location
Brethren, Michigan
You need to add another random pattern to the existing one. It needs to be a pattern that matches the hail damage pattern. It needs to be added to all parts of the existing door.
Bill, that's a great idea, a couple bullet holes, a little art work.
 
OP
A

AndyL

Well-known member
Joined
Feb 22, 2012
Messages
1,371
Location
Vancouver
Heat + urethane foam = melted foam... And that method barely works on minor dings in light gauge - this is a much heavier gauge (gotta be 18 or thicker) with golf ball sized dings.

May have to think through the wax - but then how to thoroughly remove the wax for paint?

not going for perfect, just 10' good enough...
 

Danver

Well-known member
Joined
Jun 24, 2012
Messages
159
Location
Upper Peninsula of Michigan
It would really help to be able to see exactly what kind of texture is being duplicated. Some pictures or at least an idea of what it looks like might inspire some good ideas.
 

LXCam

ALLIANCE MEMBER
Joined
Apr 23, 2013
Messages
19,097
Location
AZ
The wax idea kicks ***. But did I read you had a rubber stamp made??. If so just dip it in denatured alcohol, it won't stick and won't screw up the paint bond after it dissipates. If I read that wrong on the stamp, get some heat moldable putty and make one. I have some stuff that I use with a plastic repair duplicator kit thatcis really stout after it cools off. This stuff rocks for duplicating busted tabs and such.
 
Last edited:
OP
A

AndyL

Well-known member
Joined
Feb 22, 2012
Messages
1,371
Location
Vancouver
Not made but yeah the place with the mold release waxes had it - 2part liquid for making proper rubber stamps...

Might have to start with the denatured, give that a whirl.

I'll see if I have a decent shot of the graining - its fairly typical steel door Woodgrain - but longer / coarser - I'm using a sample of http://www.garaga.com/uploadedImage...dential_Doors/H-Tech/IMG_FiniGrain_H-Tech.jpg as i found one not too far off in grain appearance.
 

LXCam

ALLIANCE MEMBER
Joined
Apr 23, 2013
Messages
19,097
Location
AZ
Hey I completely forgot about some mold release agent I have in the shop I've used in the past to make molds of cylinder heads out of bondo. It worked great, I'll chime back in the morning with the name. But am not sure what impact it may have with paint as it did leave residue on the mold.
 

Danver

Well-known member
Joined
Jun 24, 2012
Messages
159
Location
Upper Peninsula of Michigan
Not made but yeah the place with the mold release waxes had it - 2part liquid for making proper rubber stamps...

Might have to start with the denatured, give that a whirl.

I'll see if I have a decent shot of the graining - its fairly typical steel door Woodgrain - but longer / coarser - I'm using a sample of http://www.garaga.com/uploadedImage...dential_Doors/H-Tech/IMG_FiniGrain_H-Tech.jpg as i found one not too far off in grain appearance.

Are you leaving the stamp in place until the bondo dries or is it too large of an area and you are trying to put in the texture while the bondo is still wet?

After seeing the texture you are talking about I was thinking a piece of vinyl siding with a similar texture could be used to make the imprint and once the bondo is dry I can't imagine it sticking to that. At least not more than the bondo would be stuck to the metal of the door to where you couldn't peel it off. Or if that did stick maybe a piece of plastic wrap in between first.

 

gm54210

Well-known member
Joined
Jan 21, 2010
Messages
422
Location
Penna Dutch Country

Cardboard Man

Well-known member
Joined
Aug 30, 2008
Messages
810
Location
NJ
On the same theory as the excellent wax suggestion, why not try Play-Doh? Easily obtainable and zero prep time. Press it into a good section of the door to get your mold, then lay it in the bondo. You might have to tape it in place until the bondo dries, but I'm thinking it would peel right off and any pieces left behind could be brushed off (the stuff comes out of carpet after all).

Incidentally, I give partial credit to my 4-year-old son for this idea.
 
OP
A

AndyL

Well-known member
Joined
Feb 22, 2012
Messages
1,371
Location
Vancouver
Pointless dent either need access to the back side or heat... Neither of which is workable.

Insurance is generally expecting to replace 5 doors - but the customer likes his doors, are in a style no longer available, and are fricken bomb proof (thick steel (like previously mentioned at least 18ga - vs the 20some we get now) - 2" thick polyurethane). They pretty much survived a hail storm that decimated his exterior (stucco, windows, roof), its hard to say they need replacing when you know the replacements would get destroyed on the next go-round.

Ice - would interfere with the bondo curing. Playdoh I'm sure would flatten before emparting an imprint to the bondo...
 

Flatland Dave

Well-known member
Joined
Jan 1, 2010
Messages
1,363
Location
SoDak
Perhaps take plastic wrap (Glad) place over stamp, apply to bondo pull stamp off leaving plastic wrap and wait to dry.
 

CTyankee

Well-known member
Joined
Jan 13, 2013
Messages
3,792
Location
CT
You're over thinking this whole thing. As NUTTS mentioned, get someone to "engrave" the pattern AFTER the Bondo has set up. Any half-*** artist should be able to make it unnoticeable..(apologizes to any half-*** artists). ;)
 

LXCam

ALLIANCE MEMBER
Joined
Apr 23, 2013
Messages
19,097
Location
AZ
Andy, that mold release agent is boron nitride and seems cleanable with soap and water but no guarantees. Also the heat moldable putty came with a plastex kit. Good luck bud.
 
To avoid these ads, REGISTER NOW!
Top Bottom