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what finish/material on 2nd floor FLOOR

egads74

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In the upstairs of the garage, I plan to set up a work area (wood/metal).
Right now it has just plywood down.

I was wondering what type of finished coverings folks have used...

If I put down a finish floor it may get slippery with sawdust.
Of course, what you use the area for will dictate the finish.

Anything special on your stairs?

Heating underneath or let 1st floor heat rise by itself?
 
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AlphaGarage

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Our epoxy systems work great on wood. I was recently in a dental office that had real nice hardwood floors. In the past they used typical floor polyurethane coatings, and it worked okay in some areas, but not so well in heavy wear areas. Areas like the main hallway, and in the exam rooms where those little chair wheel would wear down the coatings pretty quickly.

So they finall contacted one of our pro installers to redo some of the problem spots. He put down BondTite 1101 as the prime coat, and EnduraShield 2254 as the clear coat. Based on the performance in those spots they recently did the entire office with those coatings.

A small amount of grit additive will lessen slip and fall potential.
 

thegarageguy

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I'm really surprised by this recommendation. I think sometimes supposed pros get blind sighted by a potential sale.

Wood expands and contracts like no ones business. If you apply a seamless coating to it you will have eventual hairlinie and or crack. Then if moisture is introduced it will lift and flake off, no matter what Fred says about Bondtite or any products bonding capabilities.

To install a seamless floor over wood, there are 2 ways. One is a fiberglass reinforced membrane and the other is with metal the stapled down.

We prefer the metal lath, self leveling polymerized cement at 1/4 inch, then apply any finishing type system over it. This is an example of that type of work.

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AlphaGarage

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GarageFloorGuy is right about many contractors getting blind sighted by some potential sale. However, the flooring contractor I mentioned here is hardly the type to do that. In fact, from what I have learned from working with Wolverine Coatings, most of their contractors are highly educated and committed to customer satisfaction. In fact, The pro floor coating contractor who installed the Wolverine Coatings Corporation products over the wood floor is well aware of, and extremely knowledgeable about, wood floors and coating them. Just as a quick background, the owner of that company has a Bachelor's Degree in Civil Engineering, he is a PE (Professional Engineer... kind of like a designation like accountants get when they become a CPA), he holds every certification you can get from NACE and SSPC, he is one of the few IAAPA certified engineers in the world, he also holds every designation by ACI (American Concrete Institute)... and... if that is not enough... his degree came from MIT. The guy is incredibly sharp and an expert who thoroughly researches and flat out knows his stuff. This certainly isn’t his first wood floor job, and won’t be his last.

Just as an aside, another pro who does large commercial jobs, and who has experience with all the major suppliers in the game, coated the wood floors in his personal residence, his choice for the job? Wolverine Coatings Corporation products.

Yes, a wood floor will expand and contract, not unlike a concrete substrate. If it gets wet, wood will probably expand more, fortunately a good epoxy coating will encapsulate the wood and keep it from becoming that wet, that’s one of the reasons to coat it to begin with. There are plenty of applications with resin over wood – pretty much every bar with a wood bar top has it epoxy resin coated, and a lot of boats have coated decks and wood work.

Is every epoxy suitable for wood application? No. But BondTite 1101 is, as is EnduraShield 2254 over BondTite 1101. Eric at Wolverine Coatings Corporation has developed AHC Technology which allows BondTite 1101 to do a few tricks a lot of other epoxies just can’t do.

Likewise although a lot of other epoxies are hard, but they’re also brittle, so they have very little tolerance for movement. Again, BondTite 1101 is not like all other epoxies. Even after curing it remains relatively flexible. This certainly helps on a floor when something is dropped on it, but it also helps on wood as it expands and contracts.

On this plywood floor you could v-groove or router a groove along the seams where the sheets meet, fill with IntegraFlex 1921, then BondTite 1101. Once the BondTite 1101 is down you can continue with the floor as you desire or just leave the clear finish although you would see the IntegraFlex 1921 underneath it. If you wanted a solid color look, just put down some LiquaTile 1184 over the BondTite 1101 primer and maybe add an EnduraShield 2254 clear coat. To reduce slip and fall potential, add a bit of SuperGrip 850 to the final clear coat. You may even decide to flake the floor.
 

thegarageguy

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I wasn't talking about your contractor, I was referring to you. Egads74 asked about epoxy on wood, instead of explaining the right process you rushed to praise your product. Painfully obvious product pushing instead of informing people is the problem I'm talking about.
 

AlphaGarage

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Those problems are your problems your products, not my problem with my products. I'm not an installer, don't pretend to be. You know nothing of our products, don't pretend you do.

You are correct that an epoxy will fail over wood, but BondTite 1101 is not a standard epoxy - it is a hybrid product. I have a piece of fully cured BondTite 1101 that's about 250 mil thick - 1/4 inch, it's as flexible and tough as a piece of thick rubber.

If I run across a situation that I'm not familiar with, I call people who are. This was one of those cases, which is why I didn't post right away, it took a few days to get a hold of our contractor to double check the solution, which is posted above.
 
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thegarageguy

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You know nothing of our products, don't pretend you do.

When have I said anything about your products? When have I pretended to? Please quote me Fred.

The fact is that I do not comment on your stuff or specifically endorse any product for that matter, unlike you.

Your answer for everything is " Bondtite and liquitile"

I got a garage floor.........Bondtite and liquitile
how bout a pool?............Bondtite and liquitile
My *** hurts...............Bondtite and liquitile

When people ask about certain applications and your only answer, as always is Bondtite and liquitile. I think makes you look shallow with obvious ulterior motives.

We all know what you sell, you don't need to push it on every post.
 

AlphaGarage

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You stated "If you apply a seamless coating to it you will have eventual hairlinie and or crack. Then if moisture is introduced it will lift and flake off, no matter what Fred says about Bondtite or any products bonding capabilities."

I took that to mean that you think BondTite, being a seamless coating, will lift and flake off when applied on wood. If I misinterpreted that, my apologies.

As for the pool - BondTite 1101 for the primer and LiquaTile 1187 (not 1184) for the top coat.

If we had a material that we find works better for the primer, I'd recommend it. But BondTite is an extremely versatile coating. Sorry if that doesn't fit your worldview.

Also sorry about your **** -and no, BondTite will probably not help you with that :)

There, something BondTite won't stick to. Now are you happy?
 
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thegarageguy

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Ok egads74, the fact is that any and all epoxies will bond to wood. The only problem with wood is the seams. They need to be addressed before coating. If not, no matter what super duper epoxy you choose, may eventually fail because of it.

Good luck
 
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