What gasket material to use on air compressor?
- Thread starter setlab
- Start date
Murphy4570
Well-known member
Regular paper gasket material would likely be adequate. You can buy rolls of it at local auto parts stores in a few different thicknesses, with 1/16 and 1/8" being common.
Chris705
Well-known member
Murph - would the same gasket material be used on the side access port of a compressor? I pulled the cover plate off of my slightly used Industrial Air 80 gal - 2 stage compressor to get all the old oil out and the gasket appeared to be a reddish/orange fibrous material... The paper would be best over an RVT sealer or form-a-gasket (if they even make that any longer)????.....is there still some coating that gets applied to the matting parts when using paper?
Setlab - sorry to hijack....but was relevant to your original post.
Setlab - sorry to hijack....but was relevant to your original post.
md21722
Well-known member
Generally gasket sealers are not required, but people use them anyway.
Murphy4570
Well-known member
There are different color and styles of gaskets for sure. I'm not an experienced gasket-maker or in manufacturing, so I'm no expert on it. I can say that from what I've seen, regular paper seems to hold up well under low torque, low pressure applications.
If it is just a service cover plate, I wouldn't hesitate to make a new gasket. Cork would work better if it sees oil or has to seal oil in and doesn't see a lot of pressure.
As for sealer, I don't recommend using just RTV. Gasket plus a very thin application of RTV works well for paper gaskets. Permatex and other brands make a variety of types. I have had great success using a very thin bead of grey Permatex RTV on both sides of water pump and intake gaskets on car engines, for example. I apply a little around the surface, rub it in with my finger, and apply the gasket. I rub more in on the other side (usually on the part being assembled), and install it.
With gaskets and RTV, there are a LOT of options out there, as well as assembly and application methods.
If it is just a service cover plate, I wouldn't hesitate to make a new gasket. Cork would work better if it sees oil or has to seal oil in and doesn't see a lot of pressure.
As for sealer, I don't recommend using just RTV. Gasket plus a very thin application of RTV works well for paper gaskets. Permatex and other brands make a variety of types. I have had great success using a very thin bead of grey Permatex RTV on both sides of water pump and intake gaskets on car engines, for example. I apply a little around the surface, rub it in with my finger, and apply the gasket. I rub more in on the other side (usually on the part being assembled), and install it.
With gaskets and RTV, there are a LOT of options out there, as well as assembly and application methods.
Schurkey
Well-known member
The LAST thing I suggest for applying to a gasket is RTV. The stuff is practically a lubricant--so it's really easy for the gasket to slide out-of-position when the fasteners are tightened.
RTV instead of a gasket can provide good results. RTV on a gasket...not so much.
There's a zillion gasket adhesives out there. Any of them would likely be fine. As would anaerobic sealer/gasket maker such as Permatex/Loctite 518 (although it might be no fun to remove the part later.)
Big question is: Are the original gaskets damaged?
RTV instead of a gasket can provide good results. RTV on a gasket...not so much.
There's a zillion gasket adhesives out there. Any of them would likely be fine. As would anaerobic sealer/gasket maker such as Permatex/Loctite 518 (although it might be no fun to remove the part later.)
Big question is: Are the original gaskets damaged?
sberry
Banned
You can use paper for some of them but there is nothing wrong with rtv either, it really never leaks.
Here is a story for you.
4 years ago I had to remove the both cyl heads from dual stage Italian made air compressor (10 hp motor) because the gaskets were blown and it ran constantly and only built up 3 bars with air escaping from the head gaskets.
I had to seal two layers, the valve plate to the cylinders and the top cover to the valve plate ( for both cylinders) On top of that were intake and exhaust manifolds. Quite complex gaskets on this unit and I saw it would take me all day to make all the gaskets for it. I also knew someone already tried that and it lasted only few months.
Since it didn't work anyway and no gaskets available I decided to try Permatex Red High Temp RTV instead of gaskets. It took me half hour to apply the sealant to all the webs and ribs I had to seal. Assembled it and let it sit overnight before testing it. It worked! I was not very optimistic it would last long since this unit runs to 10 bars and gets quite hot doing it. Come on! - everyone knows these things need quality gaskets for crying out loud!!
Shortly after this compressor was moved to different location and is in daily use. Not constantly but it's fired up every day and some days it runs quite a bit. Last winter the motor let out the smoke so they bought new motor for it - obviously they have great confidense in the pump since they did that. Still runs fine, loads up quickly and no leaks.
So the quick and dirty fix to get a job or two done - turned out to be permanent repair!!
Not bad!
4 years ago I had to remove the both cyl heads from dual stage Italian made air compressor (10 hp motor) because the gaskets were blown and it ran constantly and only built up 3 bars with air escaping from the head gaskets.
I had to seal two layers, the valve plate to the cylinders and the top cover to the valve plate ( for both cylinders) On top of that were intake and exhaust manifolds. Quite complex gaskets on this unit and I saw it would take me all day to make all the gaskets for it. I also knew someone already tried that and it lasted only few months.
Since it didn't work anyway and no gaskets available I decided to try Permatex Red High Temp RTV instead of gaskets. It took me half hour to apply the sealant to all the webs and ribs I had to seal. Assembled it and let it sit overnight before testing it. It worked! I was not very optimistic it would last long since this unit runs to 10 bars and gets quite hot doing it. Come on! - everyone knows these things need quality gaskets for crying out loud!!
Shortly after this compressor was moved to different location and is in daily use. Not constantly but it's fired up every day and some days it runs quite a bit. Last winter the motor let out the smoke so they bought new motor for it - obviously they have great confidense in the pump since they did that. Still runs fine, loads up quickly and no leaks.
So the quick and dirty fix to get a job or two done - turned out to be permanent repair!!
Not bad!
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metaldad
Well-known member
i make gaskets out of 'garlock'. a sheet material available to me, either #3000 or 3200
larry4406
Well-known member
Gasket paper and Indian Head Shellac
Stinger
Well-known member
I agree that paper material will work. With that said, you can buy a new gasket for cheap. One of my gaskets blew a few months ago and I just looked at the casting numbers on the pump, googled it, and bought a new "headgasket" for like $8.
sberry
Banned
That is great. Back in the day I would have done that for 8$ but last one I did used header gasket for the head and its still working. The silicone on the head sounds like a good idea too, gotta let it sit good first though.
niferous
Well-known member
Is a gasket kit available? When I rebuilt my Champion there were a lot f online stores with individual gaskets, full gasket kits, and full rebuild kits.
similar experience here. but I reused the old torn gaskets and just coated them with permatex. never had a problem with it after that...
I've also heard of guys making head gaskets out of aluminum beer cans and spraying them with silver paint...supposed to work well...