what gets "torqued"

[boogerboy72]

just out of curiosity, how many of you torque every bolt to manufacturer specs?

Myself i dont torque it down unless its a headbolt, main, journal or something like a valvebody.

 

[Riverrojo]

Same as OP ^. Torque is over-rated on most applications.

 

[seth_man]

yeah, i use my better judgement, I torque timing components, water pumps, wheels, any other engine fasteners or anything that loads a bearing. busting out the torque wrench for every bolt would waste so much time.

 

[tonydanzah]

head gaskets is about it for me

 

[WhiffySpark]

head gaskets is about it for me

It really depends on what i'm doing. SBC are very forgiving with headgaskets so i don't torque those. I torqued a VW passat axle nut.. PITA . Waterpumps sometimes and that's about it

 

[Joe H]

I personally would only bother torquing things like major engine components (head bolts, timing components, rod and main bolts, etc), axle nuts, lug nuts, and brake caliper bolts.

 

[TA^Guy]

Engines, drivetrain, wheels, etc.

Same as OP ^. Torque is over-rated on most applications.

I can't say I agree. A torque rating isn't always to make sure something is tight enough, but also prevents people from over tightening. Many times over tightening is more of a problem than not tightening something enough. Knowing proper torque specs isn't over rated.

 

[devilphrog]

Working on aircraft has made me change my ways in torquing. I like to torque as much to specs as possible to know things were done right. If there is no spec listed, I like to torque to the fastener size's specification

 

[michael murder]

I torque anything with a gasket, come to think of it I torque almost everything. Better paranoid than sorry.

 

[supraman1990]

I'll use judgment. Things like engine components get torqued. Other than that it's just judgment on what the fastener actually does. Yesterday I busted my torque wrench out in order to torque the 4 bolts in a ford steering wheel that control the horn operation. Over tighten those and the horn will blow far too easily, and the spec was only like 60 inch pounds.

 

[Joelfke]

I torque anything engine and transmission. also wheel lugs. i feel no need to torque body panels, suspension, exhaust, or steering components as long as theyre more than snug

 

[skeletonizer]

If I can find a spec. in a reasonable amount of time I torque everything. I wrench on stuff as a hobby and it is relaxing to me to know I am doing something correctly and fixing a problem.

My day (midnight actually) job is one big clusterphuck compromise so it's nice to actually do it right at home.

 

[Eds_tls]

If I can find a spec. in a reasonable amount of time I torque everything. I wrench on stuff as a hobby and it is relaxing to me to know I am doing something correctly and fixing a problem.

thats exactly what I do and exactly the reason why. Doing stuff correctly is part of why I do my own wrenching. I always use a shop manual when I work on my bikes and my truck. So if it lists a torque spec, I use it.

Except for lug nuts and drain plugs. Drain plugs get tightened until I see the crush washer compress. Lug nuts get a good grunt until I hear that "lug nut sound"

Working on the room mates cars is another story. Since they're getting free labor, they get what they pay for

 

[Shadowdog500]

Head bolts, pretty much any internal engine or trans bolt such as, main journal bolts, connecting rod nuts, cam gear bolts, trans valve-body and pump bolts, airplane spark plugs, Pretty much everything when rebuilding a differential, and yes I do torque my lug nuts, I want them to be tight enough to hold the wheel yet loose enough so my wife can get them off if she had to.

Chris

 

[BWright]

All important engine, transmission, and differential fasteners obviously. Also, anything that seals with a gasket or o-ring.

 

[skeletonizer]

Lug nuts especially!


My daily driver has 14" brake rotors front and rear, they aren't cheap. Unequally torqued nuts will let a rotor that size warp pretty easily.

 

[trailwart]

when i worked on school busses, i tq everything. there is so much liability in some areas that you have to cover your a$$. 1 of the first thing an accident investigator will do is see who worked on the vehicle, then they will start checking things that you worked on/signed off on. if a wheel/rim comes of and it calls for 450 ftlbs. obviously he cant check that wheel, but he will check the others , and will check differnt rigs/busses for consistancy.
there have been home mechanics prosecuted in this country from failed brake jobs and suspension components causing fatalities.

when you are sitting on the stand in court and the prosecuter asks what you tq the wheel to, you better give the #, and it better be right. just sayin....

 

[TA^Guy]

Lug nuts get a good grunt until I hear that "lug nut sound"

What sound would that be? I wonder if that is the same sound teh guy who put my snow tires on my truck 2 years ago said when he over tightened them so much it warped my rotors and I needed to cut 3 lug nuts off, and break 3 studs to remove the wheels.

Last time I make the mistake of letting someone do something so simple as to change my tires, now I bring my wheels to the place, get tires mnted and bring them home. And that is only if I can't get someone I know to let me use the machine myself.

 

[wolpi]

all car parts that spin! all parts in and outside an engine! rods were torqued by length, everything else with nm. why risk something for saving 30seconds. i also mark torqueded fasteners etc.
1. you know which you have made
2. you know if somebody opened them after you.

 

[nissan_crawler]

internal engine components, lug nuts, axle carriers, and not much more.

 

[Daedalus]

Everything except the ornamental stuff. Plastic covers, trim pieces, brackets holding lightweight, non-safety components, etc get snugged up with a 1/4" ratchet. Everything else gets done to spec with one of 4 torque wrenches in the toolbox. Fortunately the pace I work at doesn't put food on the table anyway.

 

[bcjames]

If a Torque spec is avaliable, I use it regardless of component. If there isnt one, I typically tighten it using my judgement on the bolt/component/use, still using the torque wrench to give myself a figure.

 

[hydramatic]

you had better torque a valvebody.....Allison`s and fords are mighty touchy.!!!!!!!!!!1

 

[justinmc]

Of the stuff I work on I generally torque anything that has a gasket, seal, oring to manufacturer specs when I can find them. Lug nuts, wheel bearings, axle nuts, etc.

Modern aluminum engines, etc tend to not like not being properly torqued when doing stuff like valve covers, timing covers, etc. Good way to end up with a leak.

 

[seth_man]

Of the stuff I work on I generally torque anything that has a gasket, seal, oring to manufacturer specs when I can find them. Lug nuts, wheel bearings, axle nuts, etc.

Modern aluminum engines, etc tend to not like not being properly torqued when doing stuff like valve covers, timing covers, etc. Good way to end up with a leak.

you sir are correct and now with so many engine parts (valve covers, trans pans, oil pans, intakes) becoming plastic proper torque is becoming pretty important to prevent comebacks and/or expensive mistakes.

 

[SharkD]

Working on aircraft has made me change my ways in torquing. I like to torque as much to specs as possible to know things were done right. If there is no spec listed, I like to torque to the fastener size's specification

If a Torque spec is avaliable, I use it regardless of component. If there isnt one, I typically tighten it using my judgement on the bolt/component/use, still using the torque wrench to give myself a figure.

I learned "the hard way" about torquing to spec. Right after I'd bought the E30, I was replacing the factory rotor backing plates with some that would accept hose for brake ducting. I sliced my hand (through my glove) because of a stuck bolt, and wanted to get the job done, quickly, so when replacing the caliper to the steering knuckle, I figured that yanking as hard as I could would generate sufficient tightening torque.

10 miles later, a sickening ka-thunk was heard as the forward bolt bounced off the underbody. Thankfully, I was 500 yards (literally) from a friend's driveway. I got the wheel off and found that the remaining bolt was literally ¼” from falling out. Had that fallen out, the line would have snapped and I would have lost braking (and some clutch assistance).

Now, everything either gets torqued to manufacturer's spec, or in their absence, fastener spec.

 

[rsanter]

all internal engine fasteners
most external fasteners
most suspension fasteners
all internal rear end fasteners
all internal transmissions fasteners
lugnuts

bob

 

[Mr.Nutcase]

I learned "the hard way" about torquing to spec. Right after I'd bought the E30, I was replacing the factory rotor backing plates with some that would accept hose for brake ducting. I sliced my hand (through my glove) because of a stuck bolt, and wanted to get the job done, quickly, so when replacing the caliper to the steering knuckle, I figured that yanking as hard as I could would generate sufficient tightening torque.

10 miles later, a sickening ka-thunk was heard as the forward bolt bounced off the underbody. Thankfully, I was 500 yards (literally) from a friend's driveway. I got the wheel off and found that the remaining bolt was literally ¼” from falling out. Had that fallen out, the line would have snapped and I would have lost braking (and some clutch assistance).

Now, everything either gets torqued to manufacturer's spec, or in their absence, fastener spec.

Use locktight on caliper bolts/bridge bolts, and torque to specs, and always cover you ***(CYA)

 

[glenmore]

I torque everything that I have specs for. I don't have the judgement (yet, maybe never) that is accrued from years of wrenching. As mentioned, lug nuts are one of the easiest and also one of the most important to do. Always release and re-torque your lug nuts after a visit to a repair shop.

 

[Rolling_Thunder]

torque is critical with Aluminum wheels. Too tight and the rotor will warp! Whenever I get new tires put on I alway go home and retorque the wheels they are always tooooo tight! Had a 97 Tbird bought used they had done a brake job when I bought it! 3k miles later they redid the brake job cause of warped rotors!

 

[jeepnut24]

Lug nuts especially!


My daily driver has 14" brake rotors front and rear, they aren't cheap. Unequally torqued nuts will let a rotor that size warp pretty easily.

I wonder if that is whats happening on my VW....

 

[tjmonsen5]

I learned "the hard way" about torquing to spec. Right after I'd bought the E30, I was replacing the factory rotor backing plates with some that would accept hose for brake ducting. I sliced my hand (through my glove) because of a stuck bolt, and wanted to get the job done, quickly, so when replacing the caliper to the steering knuckle, I figured that yanking as hard as I could would generate sufficient tightening torque.

10 miles later, a sickening ka-thunk was heard as the forward bolt bounced off the underbody. Thankfully, I was 500 yards (literally) from a friend's driveway. I got the wheel off and found that the remaining bolt was literally ¼” from falling out. Had that fallen out, the line would have snapped and I would have lost braking (and some clutch assistance).

Now, everything either gets torqued to manufacturer's spec, or in their absence, fastener spec.

Wow, ive always just tightened my calipers and brackets so that they were nice and snug, never used my torque wrench. Actually i dont think i can fit a socket on the rear upper caliper bracket bolt. Ill have to start using a torque wrench on those from now on.

The only things i torque on my E30, are lug nuts, head bolts, shock bolts, subframe bolts, diff mount, and distributor bolts. I might have torqued the water pump, but im not sure. Everything else gets nice and tight. Torque seems useless on most things. Im sure people will yell at me for saying that..

 

[uhcrandy]

I just turn till I feel the bolt/nut start to strip, then back off a little...HA!

 

[Diesel_Crawler]

Engine components or if we are fabricating a part and the engineer says we have to.

 

[boostedgt]

i use the ancient german torque spec: GUTENTIGHT

 

[WhiffySpark]

I use a 3/8 ratchet on caliper bolts. 1/2 ratchet on bracket bolts.

http://buy1.snapon.com/catalog/item...group_ID=22911&store=snapon-store&dir=catalog
Worth the money to me

 

[Avgas]

I am also in aviation, I torque everything except for access panels, interior panels, and clamps

 

[t100]

anything you can't afford to over tighten. for starters, un-evenly torqued lug nuts= warped rotors.