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What hand tools for small engine repair?

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Sep 22, 2013
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I am a young man who is going to be learning small engine repair and need a list of the hand tool requirements. I don't know what size screwdrivers I need (length and tip size) and I need a size recommendation for each required tool. Answers will be very appreciated.
 
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mech-tech

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Apr 13, 2012
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A starter set from lowes or sears will be pretty much everything you need. 1/4" and 3/8" drive basic set with a phillips and flat head screwdriver with basic wrenches will just about to everything you need. Plus a 5/8" and 13/16" spark plug socket and spark plug gap tool. All probably around $200 for a decent brand set in a handy dandy carry case.
 

rusty65

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A nice 1/4 drive set metric and standard Craftsman should work just fine but I would upgrade to a nicer ratchet then the standard craftsman. For screwdrivers a couple flats and a number one and two Phillips. And for pliers slip joints and needle noose should work. I would also get a small puller for fly wheels.


Sent directly from the Snap On Kool Aid factory.
 

Skin

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post I made in another thread when this was asked a couple years ago

I play with small engines on the side so i'll try to give you some basics that i use often [daily or at least a few times a week]. First you will absolutely need both metric and SAE. US companies have begun shifting over so its not uncommon to find a mix or something new entirely metric [recent Briggs engines]. Now on with the tools

1/4"-3/8" of both SAE and Metric from 5mm-19mm sets in chrome. Metric 3/8 really doesnt get used too often since 10mm bolts holds most things together and 1/4" drive suffices for that.

1/4 Long and Stubby Ratchet [alternately a bit ratchet in place of the stubby]
3/8 Ratchet [go-to]
1/2" Ratchet [will be used rarely-in my experience]
6" & 12" 3/8 extension [make the 6" a locking extension if you can]
3/6/12" extensions in 1/4"
1/4" swivels [mainly 10mm, 12mm, and 3/8 swivels in 1/2" + 9/16".
1/2" Impacts Deep SAE 1/2"-1" and a 14mm + 6" Impact Extension
25" Pry Bar
16oz Ball Pein
4lb Mallet (~14" handle)
Plastic Mallet
Channellock Adjustables with a rounded jaw
Vise Grips -smaller needle nose and locking plier with curved jaw and a larger clamp style.
Mini Hose Pinch Pliers-Get a few pair [Sears sells them]
8" Side Cutters
6" Long skinny needle nose pliers usually found under electricians pliers
8" Long [Needle]Nose Pliers with a Cutter
6-8" Slip Joint Pliers
Long Reach Pliers straight and Bent [45* or 90* tip]
13/16, 3/4 and 5/8 Spark Plug Sockets
Cut-Off Tool that uses 3" wheels
3/8" Drill [1/2" is needed however very rarely]
1/2" Impact Wrench [Air Or Electric will work]
Good set of punches/chisels especially roll pin punches.
Sacrificial set of flat blade screwdrivers to be used as punches/pry bars
Good set of screwdrivers [mainly P2/P3 and a very long small [skinny tip] slotted blade]
T10/15/20 Torx Drivers
T20-T30 Torx Sockets
E4 E-Torx Socket
Full Set of Standard Hex Bit Sockets
Long Pattern/Reach Combination or double box wrenchess in MM [from 8mm-16mm] and Standard [1/4-1" -anything larger than 3/4" used rarely]
Ratcheting Box Wrenches in MM and Standard
Basic Multimeter
Torque Wrench[es] that go from 40-250 inch lbs.
Standard and Metric Hex Key Set
Gasket Scraper [Straight Handle]
Right Angle Die Grinder With small Wire Wheels [for rust and intake gaskets/carbon removal]
Snap Ring Pliers
Feeler Gauge
Decent Pocket Flashlight
Mini Picks

About all i can remember and i'm guessing the shop will have some of this covered like the pneumatic tools/impacts so you probably wont need to actually buy all of it. There are also some specialty tools to get [carb seat pullers/installers/jet screwdrivers, spark/compression testers, leakdown testers, tachs, flywheel knockoff tools & pullers etc..] but they're obtainable through the dealer distributors so they should take care of you.

Most importantly, before you buy anything, get a powered screw gun. I use my Bosch PS-21 all the time during small engine / outdoor power equipment repair. Tons of tiny fasteners. It will be an extension of your arm and an enormous time saver. Get 6" P2 P3 T30 drivers for it and magnetic nut drivers in 1/4" 5/16" 3/8" 7/16" 1/2" 8mm, 10mm and 12mm.

As far as storage, if you have the space in the shop get a full drawer cart and work next to that at the bench, dont bother with a box setup. With some creative storage you can get most everything in.
 
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jakemac

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I can't help you with specific screwdriver sizes. You'll learn what best suits your needs as you go. I'd suggest putting a variety of long and shorts together, and weeding out the ones you don't use as you go. Start with cheap, or used, then once you are confident in what you will use most often you can upgrade. It's always handy to have a BFS (big "freakin" screwdriver) or two on hand for prying.

You will also find that you'll use 1/4" drive sockets more than you would think. 1/2" drive will be used rarely. Get a good set of snap-ring pliers (I like my new channellocks).

Other tools you may need :

a pair of fuel line clamps
sm, med, and large vicegrips
select torx bits
Hex bits
a sharp knife (utility)
Long reach needle nose pliers
Slip-joint pliers (channellock type)
various punches
a good fine file
flashlight
magnetic pick-up tool
magnetic parts tray (optional)
grease pencil or sharpie (for marking parts)
a small and medium ball-pein hammer


Others with more experience may have other tools to add to the list.
 

mayhemman

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my most used tools with small engines(small engine mechanic professionaly for a few years)

get a good flashlight, i love my stylus pro, carry it everywhere. made by streamlight. i have several variations.

get a good rechargable work light, batteries get old after awhile. bayco has nice ones and are affordable.

a good spark tester, i get them from ebay briggs brand. you will need a special kohler one but should check with employer on getting one for you.


1/4" socket set standard and metric (mostly 10mm)
3/8" socket set standard and metric(most metric is 10mm or 18mm(1/2" drive) for blades)
1/2 " sockets but a set of short impacts, deeps not as needed, chrome is ok, but not needed as much.

standard set of wrenches up to 1" are good
metric wrenches from 10mm to 19mm are usually more then plenty for most use. 10mm being most common.

couple of crestent wrenches

fuel line clamp pliers, i get mine from ebay i think they were cal van tools. need those

i forget what the large size of flywheel nuts are, but those are good to have for impact use, also these should bee deeps as sometimes its handy, but shorts are generally used as most of the newer stuff doesn't require deep wells.

electric or air impact 1/2" drive
1/4" impact or electric for cover screws and the like, removal only, speeds you up.

most commonly found in my hand though is a 1/4" snap on racheting driver the one that accepts 1/4" sockets. love that thing, makes lilfe much nicer. get one!

get good screwdrivers, also get torx drivers i reccomend sk or any high qaulity brand. the sk have a good handle and are fair priced.

torx/allen/flat head/phillips socket bits. get all of them, they are very very helpful. i use the phillips on tecumseh carbs often.

good pliers, don't mess with wore out pairs. get nice ones, i reccomend channelocks.
vice grips are nice but not always needed.

beleive it or not, a pipe wrench, i use it to straighten a lot of things rather then for wrenching with.

hammers, get two big ones, they will be used to straighted decks. get a medium and small one for other lighter work.

good punches and chisels, i have craftsman they work. i use punches more then chisels.

for starters on alot of engines, swivel sockets are helpful, standard most of the time, but some have metrics holding them on.

get a long grabber tool, the one with the 4 fingers, also know as a glommer used for glomming on to things.

magnetic pick up tool, used all the time.
long long screw driver, get it cheap used for cleaning gas tanks and running fuel lines on tecumseh engines.

small torch, used now and again.
good pullers are good to have, but depending on shop they may provide them. so hold off till you know what you need.

get a grassbuster scraper blade, nothing but a grassbuster, it kicks the crud out of any putty knifel. made especially for mower decks. worth every damn penny. google it and you can find it in several places.

also nice is a blade buster/breaker. its a clamp for mower blades, handy if you don't have a impact for blade work. save your fingers, don't use blocks and don't hold it with your hand. i learned that lesson years ago. please take my advice be smart.

i think that covers my most used tools and some of the specialty stuff.

don't worry about things like leakage testers,compression testers or carb testers, shop should have those on hand but if not look around for good stuff.

listen to others that are in the shop, learn don't think you know it already. keep your head on straight and you will do fine.
 
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Outlawmws

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I'll add 1/4, 5/16, 3/8, and 7/16 nut drivers possibly 1/2. I use these more than wrenches and sockets for most small engine work I see. Because you will spend a lot more time taking covers and the like off, than tearing down the engines for the guts.
 

AmericanPreferred

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May 8, 2013
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You will also need a 13/16" spark plug socket. Clean small fuel tank with shut off valve and Tygon fuel line (cause it don't require clamps). Fairly strong drill with a socket adapter to use as a starter motor. Velcro cable ties work well to hold the deadman bail, are quick to release and are reusable.
 
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CWP1616L

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By the way, I have the Briggs & Stratton special service tools catalog on file as well as all the service manuals. Send me a PM if you're interested in receiving them as an attachment via e-mail.
 
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